wlepse Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 I recently did the fronts and took a quick look at the rears. While there is plenty of pad I just want to get it done since we have had bad luck with the stock pads. Anyway, I confirmed I need a two pin adaptor but I have seen both right and left handed version. Can anyone confirm which way these need to be turned to push them in? Also...what the hell is the part hanging off the caliper? Any other tips or recommendations for getting these done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Seems like they go clockwise but it's been awhile so I'm not 100% sure. But I don't think the tools are directional - should work either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlepse Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 That is the way I can remember doing other cars but found this tool: http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Mercury-Brake-Caliper-Tool/dp/B000HI0NCA/ref=pd_ybh_1 It specifically says some Ford models from 2005 on have left hand threads...maybe I should just buy a kit that includes both that way I am covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlepse Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Figures...I bought the kit yesterday and figured I would do my brakes tonight but I can't get the rotor off. Did a search but seems most posts are for pre 2011 and mention backing the e brake off the inside of tophat. Mine has ebrake as part of caliper so that isn't it. Does anyone have a shop manual to confirm how these come off? I have the torx screw out but it almost looks like I may have to remove the axle nut so I can take a cup off that is holding rotor on. Ideas? I don't mind going caveman on it but don't want to assume a big hammer is the go to tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 As long as the tool fits the holes, you should be able to turn it either way. Like it was mentioned, there shouldn't be a left or a right hand tool. I have even turned those adjusters in by using a brass bar or a pin punch inserted into only one hole and hitting it with a hammer to turn it. You just have to make sure you are turning it the correct way. You have to loosen a brake cable equalization nut to remove the cable from the caliper. Still having trouble posting the pictures from the service manual (it says I'm not allowed to post that type of file-trying to use JPEG). Here's the copy of the procedure. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .Relieve the tension in the parking brake cable by loosening the parking brake cable equalizer adjustment nut. Release the parking brake cable from the brake caliper and remove the parking brake cable. NOTE: New copper washers are required when installing the brake caliper flow bolt. Remove the brake caliper flow bolt and discard the copper washers. To install, tighten to 25Nm (18 lb-ft). Remove and discard the brake pads. For additional information, refer to Brake Pads in this section.To install, reverse the removal procedure. Bleed the brake caliper. For additional information, refer to Component Bleeding in Section 206-00 . Adjust the parking brake cable. For additional information, refer to Section 206-05 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) OK, I got the picture to attach! Edited January 5, 2014 by ls973800 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlepse Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Some vehicles require pressure while turning so that is where the right/left hand thread would come in to play but based onwhat you are saying for this design all you need to do is turn it in whichever direction...probablt CW. Wasn't planning on adjusting the brake cable. But does it give you info on rotor removal? Like I mentioned above I have the torx off but nothing is moving. Normally I would just whack it but if I don't get it off I don't want to have a damaged rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) OK, I see that your caliper is already off, correct? And the rotor turns freely on the axle? Your rotor is probable stuck to the hub because of rust, salt corrosion, etc. If all of the torx screws are out (sometimes there are two, maybe three) it should come off. You can put a block of wood behind the rotor and hit it with a hammer. Sometimes you can put a jack bolt into the threaded holes that the torx screws were in and pop it off that way. No need to remove any hub nut, sounds like it is just "frozen" on. When you put it back on, clean the outside of the hub center and put on a little Never-Seeze or something similar. Just checked the service manual and they do suggest a jack bolt. I would try the wood and hammer first at this point. Thread a M10 bolt into the brake disc removal hole and tighten to press the brake disc off the hub.Installation Clean any rust or foreign material from brake disc and wheel hub. Use specified brake parts cleaner to clean the brake disc and hub mating surfaces. Apply a thin coat of specified anti-seize lubricant to the hub flange. Edited January 5, 2014 by ls973800 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlepse Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks. Torx screw is out there was only one. I tried kicking the rotor a few times but it didn't budge. My old Integra had aflat head to hold the rear rotor on too but did have (2) jack bolts on the top hat this rotor has none. That was why I was starting to wonder if something else is holding it on. I did find a posting on an F150 forum where they mention using the caliper bracket to push the rotor off. Tomorrow morning I will see what I can get in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlepse Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well the caliper tool bent trying to push the rotor off so I got a hammer. I ended up using a 4lb hammer and hearing protection because I was banging so hard. Not sure if it was just coincidence or not but both sides finally broke free when I hit the bottom edge. Can't believe how rusted on these were with less than 40k on the clock. Hell my rotors on the Audi came off much easier with 60k on rears & 230k overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 If you read some of the F150 forums, the 4X4's are notorious for having stuck rotors. Some owner's have had to heat them up, or even cut them off they were stuck so badly. Lots of ideas about how to remove them, some of which actually work pretty well. Glad to hear you got yours off without messing with the axle nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 2011 edge here. Just did the rear brakes. I had to turn the calipers pistons cw and the puston retracted without any issues. Both cw. And the dangling thing you asked about is a noise eliminator. It matches the high frequency pitch we call brake noise squeal. I had to research it myself since I never seen it. Does it work? I don't know. .. my brakes don't make noise. I just threw in pads and cleaned everything and our light coat of brake grease on all contact points. Brakes are good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tcomplex Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 When retracting the caliper, is it necessary to open a bleed valve or anything? I want to avoid introducing air. Is removing the master cylinder cap sufficient to facilitate retracting the caliper? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I did mines a few months ago. All you need is a strong long needle nose pliers, and open up the bleeders put the needle nose pliers to the notches and turn clockwise as you put slight pressure inwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tcomplex Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Good tip; seems like first thing to try before buying or fabricating the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Don't worry. you don't need that tool. I did it without and I had no problems at all. Just opened up the bleeders and it willbe very easy, otherwise you will have a hard time with the breeder close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tcomplex Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Great advice...worked with plyers and an open bleeder valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottm86 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Anyone replace the rear brake shoes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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