enigma-2

I've thought a little more about your low heat condition and something caught my attention. It would seem that you had either reached and at least checked everything that could cause this condition. Seems that could leave one item. Inasmuch as you have the dual heat system, it doesn't work the same as a single system, in that it only delivers as much or as little heat as needed to compensate for the conditions at that time. (I have the same system in my MKX.) The only way to get full heat in this system is to turn the temperature control up to 90°. After the car is fully warmed up, try turning the thermostat to 90° and see if your getting sufficient heat at this sitting.

It would appear that you have covered all of the possibilities. Based on your statements, it really comes down to the blend doors opening all the way or a partially blocked Heather core. There's a easy check for the core, after the car is warmed up, feel both hoses going into the cabin. Both should be hot. In one is noticeably cooler than the other, there's a partial blockage. Some time ago, Ford issued a customer satisfaction program for this generation due to casting sand or scale corroding and plugging the heater core channels. (It's expired now, but the problems you wrote about seem to describe it to a tee. Some sand left over from engine casting worked its way to the core partially blocking the small channels. Weaker on drivers side than passenger. Never gets really hot, etc.) The complaint was for a 2008 but applies to all first generation edges. https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37362-poor-heater-performance/

When replacing the alternator, it's possible to disconnect the shift cable linkage underneath the air filter box. One possible way to check this is if the shifter moves smoothly but the transmission lever on doesn’t move. if this is the problem, remove the air filter housing box to look deep at the top of the transmission. Look for the shift cable. It terminates with a small metal lever with a plastic bushing. If the cable is hanging loose just snap it back on. Another possibility is low voltage to the electronic shift solenoids. If the alternator power wire accidentally grounds against the frame during installation, it could have blown a fuse killing the transmission control module. Check fuse 56 (or whichever fuse controls the TCM in your car.)

That's the correct p/n. Note that it's also sold under the short part number DY-1317. There could be different numbers stamped on the side of the module. Possibilities include: BA1T-9G768-AM BA1T-9G768-AJ BA1T-9G768-AK BA1T-9G768-AH

Could be a broken shift cable bushing (theres a Recall on this.) If the shifter feels loose or disconnected and does not change gears properly, the The plastic bushing at the transmission end of the cable has broken. (This is a known issue covered by NHTSA Recall 22V-413, and affects 2011-2014 Ford Edges.) the fix is to your dealership to have the bushing replaced for free.

With both both weak heat and weak cooling, my initial guess would be a faulty blend door actuator. This would be especially true if the air flow is sufficient but it just isn't hot or cold enough. (If the airflow weak it suggests a different problem.) First try a reset. 1. Turn the vehicle off. 2. Press and hold the system power button and the front defrost button at the same time, for about 5 seconds. 3. Then release and press the power button again. (This forces the system to recalibrate the climate doors.)

Because you stated you smell gas when put in gear suggests a damaged or cracked charcoal canister or hose.

Yes, your 4-cylinder 2.0L EcoBoost engine requires SAE 5W-30 oil. 5W-20 oil will thin out at operating temperatures and will not maintain a protective film between moving metal parts. Most critically, the turbos are at greatest risk. They spin at +150,000 RPM and uses oil to cool and lubricate the bearings. 5W20 will break down (get too thin) under this extreme heat, leading to bearing wear or turbo failure. Replace it immediately with 5W30.

If we can assume that the LEDs were aftermarket, there's a possibility that the LED were installed with an external driver box (a small metal/plastic rectangle attached to the wire.) If so, did you also remove this adapter from the factory housing as well? (This additional harness must also be removed.) When installing the Halogen bulbs, wipe the glass with an alcohol wipe to remove any possible contamination. Never touch the glass with your fingers as it will leave oils from your finger and dramatically shorten the life of the bulbs.

Looking at the literature, there is apparently a gasket (located at the mid-pipe to catalytic converter) that degrades over time, or the flange ears can rust off. One suggestion to verify this is to connect the reverse output from a shop vac to the tailpipe with duct tape to make an air-tight connection. Then using a squirt bottle of soapy water, spray the solution on all the joints looking for soap bubbles from the air escaping. There should NOT be any places along a worn exhaust system where it's shinny nor have traces of black from carbon. (Telltale signs.) If you find even a small leak, have it fixed immediately as CO2 is dangerous inside the cabin.

Could also check Fuse #44. (Protects the rear seat release solenoids.)

Did you check the fuses?

"... so decided to open it up and change everything but the Cam phasers and chains. " Why on earth would you not change the timing chain? I can understand the reason for not changing the cam phasers as they'll set you back $500. But after tearing down the engine, and considering the milage, could be cheap insurance.

Probably violates Ford's OEM warranty.......

Could of things come to mind. With low oil pressure, rattling, and codes P0012 (Bank 1 over-retarded) and P0022 (Bank 2 over-retarded) after you replaced the water pump, it may be caused if the pump had failed and caused l coolant to leak into the oil. If so, this created a "milky" sludge that clogged the VVT solenoids. As to the rattling sound, if you reused hydraulic timing chain tensioner abd failed to bled it properly, it probably can't maintain pressure which causes the chain to slap against the guides.