enigma-2

Have OEM rotors and pads, never had a single problem, work great. Never understood why go aftermarket, some setups fade less, but I never had the need for heavy braking. Don't stop any faster (than OEM), in a panic stop the brakes lock the wheels and stopping distance is reliant on tire width (amount of tire in contact with the ground.) In a average stop, it comes down to pad material and Ford is excellent quality. Slotted rotors are slightly worst in daily driving (less rotor material for friction), but do fade less on a race track. (I don't need to make 5 or more hard stops in a row.) Now, as far as whats the best oil .... (g)

There's a couple of work-arounds, but the best way is to update the database. Quick review of the process: first ensure that your USB drive has at least 8 GB of space. Make sure your USB is empty and formatted to FAT32 (for SYNC versions before SYNC 3) or exFAT (for SYNC 3 and later). (If uncertain, reformate the drive.) Updates take around 1/2 hour and car has to be running during this time, so if you want the Ford garage to do it, figure 1/2 hour of labor. One of the work-arounds is to move your music to a USB drive or SD card. Then plug it into the media hub inside the center console. Make certain you music is formatted to either MP3 or M4A and properly tagged with metadata. (You can use a free PC tool like Mp3tag to add artist names and embed album cover images directly into the files. I did this years ago and it's a pita.) You can also burn files as a MP3 CD rather than a standard Audio CD. The Ford Edge CD player reads MP3 discs and will display the file tags on the screen.

Its not really possible to answer your question with the limited information posted. However, you may be better helped by talking with Crutchfield at 1-800-555-7088. Have your car info and new radio model ready. Most likely it requires a custom harness and these guys can whip one up for you.

Typically vinyl wrap will last 3‐— 5 years. By using premium vinyl, it can stretch to 5—7 years under "ideal" conditions. Cheaper, thicker vinyl usually lasts only 1—2 years before it starts shrinking and cracking. "Premium brands like 3M or Avery Dennison will typically last 5—7 years. They are highly pliable, thin, and conform excellently to complex curves." Remember that when this stuff gets old, you have to remove it. (and it's an absolute pain to remove.)

How did this turn out? If the problem still exists, did you check the BMS? The BMS is located on the negative battery terminal. If its failing the PCM can miscalculate the charging needs. Try unplugging the BMS sensor temporarily. If the intermittent charging stops and defaults to a steady ~13.5V to 13.8V, your alternator is physically capable of charging, and the issue is likely a bad BMS sensor.

Ever get this fixed? One other thing that can cause thus is a tripped or locked Field Effect Transistor circuit inside the Body Control Module. One way to test this is turn the headlight switch on, disconnect the main wire plug from the back of the broken headlight assembly and check to see if there's power to the lighs power pin. (On the passenger side, the power wire is blue with green stripe.) If there's no voltage to the power pin the BCM has locked out the headlight. An easy fix for this is to use FORScan. Go to the service/configuration tab in FORScan and select BCM Module Reset (or possibly Front Light Control Module reset). Then clear the DTC error codes and this should reset the BCM.

As you've changed the EVAP Valve, another thing that can cause the engine stalling at idle (unless you press the gas pedal) is the low-pressure fuel pump or sensor. If the sensor reads fuel pressure incorrectly or the fuel pump in the gas tank is getting weak and can't deliver enough fuel to the high-pressure pump on the engine idle, the engine starts to die. Giving it gas forces the system to command more fuel pressure, keeping it alive temporarily. Should throw a P0087 or P0191. An outside chance could be related to a dirty throttle body. The throttle body internal motor gets dirty and fails to maintain the correct idle gap for airflow when your foot is off the pedal, choking out the engine. Look for a P2111 or P2112 codes. .

Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleed the HCU.

good. Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleedc the HCU.

A weak vehicle battery can cause all kinds of weird faults. Verify your battery is good by running a conductance test (a CCA test). (Not just a simple voltage test which is misleading. A battery may present 12.6 volts at rest but drop voltage quickly. A CCA test measures how much capacity the battery can deliver before its voltage drops.) Low voltage can cause digital electronics to malfunction.

Per Wubster100's post. Connect FORScan, click on the "tests" icon (looks like a clipboard with a checkmark.) Select the BCM self test from the list. Click the run button at the bottom left. The BCM test will run and test the BCM's internal circuits, read live data and report any codes.

I've thought a little more about your low heat condition and something caught my attention. It would seem that you had either reached and at least checked everything that could cause this condition. Seems that could leave one item. Inasmuch as you have the dual heat system, it doesn't work the same as a single system, in that it only delivers as much or as little heat as needed to compensate for the conditions at that time. (I have the same system in my MKX.) The only way to get full heat in this system is to turn the temperature control up to 90°. After the car is fully warmed up, try turning the thermostat to 90° and see if your getting sufficient heat at this sitting.

It would appear that you have covered all of the possibilities. Based on your statements, it really comes down to the blend doors opening all the way or a partially blocked Heather core. There's a easy check for the core, after the car is warmed up, feel both hoses going into the cabin. Both should be hot. In one is noticeably cooler than the other, there's a partial blockage. Some time ago, Ford issued a customer satisfaction program for this generation due to casting sand or scale corroding and plugging the heater core channels. (It's expired now, but the problems you wrote about seem to describe it to a tee. Some sand left over from engine casting worked its way to the core partially blocking the small channels. Weaker on drivers side than passenger. Never gets really hot, etc.) The complaint was for a 2008 but applies to all first generation edges. https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37362-poor-heater-performance/

When replacing the alternator, it's possible to disconnect the shift cable linkage underneath the air filter box. One possible way to check this is if the shifter moves smoothly but the transmission lever on doesn’t move. if this is the problem, remove the air filter housing box to look deep at the top of the transmission. Look for the shift cable. It terminates with a small metal lever with a plastic bushing. If the cable is hanging loose just snap it back on. Another possibility is low voltage to the electronic shift solenoids. If the alternator power wire accidentally grounds against the frame during installation, it could have blown a fuse killing the transmission control module. Check fuse 56 (or whichever fuse controls the TCM in your car.)

That's the correct p/n. Note that it's also sold under the short part number DY-1317. There could be different numbers stamped on the side of the module. Possibilities include: BA1T-9G768-AM BA1T-9G768-AJ BA1T-9G768-AK BA1T-9G768-AH