autom8r

Here is a second opinion. Good news, both match! Ford Edge LIFT GATE.pdf

Here you go! Ford Edge RADIATOR FAN REPLACEMENT.pdf

Jeff: You have a tow package. The tow package controller is different than the non-tow package controller. The tow package controller uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the fan speed of each fan. This is why it is difficult to test. Blasting the controller with 55A is bound to blow by the MOSFETs or IGBTs that are in there. Compare the wiring and notice that the controller for the tow package has a connector for each fan as compared to the non-tow package controller that has only one. Notice that the number and sizes of the fuses serving the fan assembly also differ. Please disconnect the fan leads from the controller and test each fan. They should spool up without issue. If they don't spool up, then it is a motor issue. If they spool up, then it is a controller issue. The controller and fans come as an assembly. While the controller is available as a separate part, it does not make sense to buy it as such, since the entire assembly (both fans and controller) is less expensive. Maybe you have access to a PWM generator, I don't know what minimum and maximum PW is to produce 0-100% fan speed, but everything is on the internet. If your EDGE has been sitting for a while, apply power to the fan leads and tap the motor housing with a large box wrench. Astonishingly, this will free up the motor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDj7EDeyL3k Presently my DORMAN fan set has lasted longer (over 100,000 miles) than the original FMC part. I agree that the connector is a bit sloppy, but a firm squeeze and a tie-wrap fixes that. Everyone knows that DORMAN parts are DOA, I must be lucky with my fan set and two out of four door lock solenoids. I'll just keep cheating fate and buy the right DORMAN part. In your quest to replace the fan assembly, no wiring alterations are required in order to adapt this into your EDGE. Plug and play. Glad you found that elusive bottom screw. I know that you've been there brother. WWWPerfA_ZN0W posted a good link on the subject: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12731-radiator-fan-assembly-replacement-procedure/ Happy trails. Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf Ford Edge Cooling Fan RandR.pdf

Disconnect the I link and the Metra. One or the other and perhaps both may be interfering with the CAN bus. The Edge is mostly fly-by-wire and any third party overlay risks disruption of the signals along the communication path between modules. Diagnosis will typically involve an oscilliscope which is typically outside the range of a Sunday mechanic. Good luck.

lwalters, The bare silver wire is most likely a shield (drain) wire. It will be connected (grounded) at one end or another, but never at both ends. Normal wiring practice dictates that it is attached to the case ground of the upstream device. Simply, it shields an audio channel (or any other analog signal) from interference. I've attached the wiring diagrams for the audio systems pertinent to your model year (and mine) for your use. There are many variants. You'll notice the shield wire and where it is connected doesn't always follow convention. It seems that in your situation there may be a loose connection somewhere. Check your shields. Personally, I like solder and heat shrink for audio connections. Happy trails. Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Rep & Wir 2008 pp4948-4969 Audio.pdf

More than 85,000 Miles so far on the Dorman. No issues. Make sure you buy the right part.

Melissa: Your DTC codes point to a defective injector, which can also cause misfiring. My advice is to buy an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope and check the #2 cylinder injector. The fuel rail is a silver horseshoe shaped tube that has six injectors attached to it. The injectors inject fuel into the intake manifold just upstream of the intake valve. They are little valves that make a "clicking" sound as they open and close. Your DTC points to a lean condition (P0171) on bank one, firewall side. Fuel-Air ratio is not optimal for combustion. But it's not rich = over-fueled. The P0202 code points to a faulty injector, that's why you need to listen to it, because if it's not making that clicking noise or it 's noise isn't the same rhythm as the others, then it's likely to be defective. Granted it may be tough to get the stethoscope to touch the body of the injector. P0302 means that the cylinder is misfiring. It can misfire because there is no fuel in the cylinder to fire. Sometimes the injector is just clogged or dirty. I can be the connector or wiring too. Inspect the wires and look for broken or damaged wire. Worst case it may the PCM. Long shot, maybe run some STP fuel treatment. I recommend that after it's fixed, you put a bottle in your tank every other month. Happy trails.

An electric build would be cool. Modified 6F tranmission or other gearbox. Batteries where fuel tank is and under backseat. I suppose you could use a powertrain from an old Escape. With some mods you could have a rocket.

Oxygen sensor wrench. I recommend disconnecting the wires before turning. Practice on the Bank2 upper HOS connector (top, radiator side) to get a feeling on how to disconnect. It should be the same connector type used on Bank#1 lower HOS. Use a little penetrant to get the old one to unscrew. Put a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new one. Wipe off excess. Don't get any on the sensor. Happy trails.

Shark 5 6 Bank 1 HOS 2 is located on the firewall side. In the vicinity of the oil pan drain bolt and lower engine mount. Happy trails.

+1 on the plugs. The transmission will hunt with a mis-firing engine under load. The power train is pretty stout.

I'm glad it worked out. I suppose that the motors do get tired.

Omar: Sorry for my late response. I think that your issue may be more related to the size and ability of the AC condenser to reject heat into a 106F environment. I would check for proper airflow through the condenser, and make sure that it is not plugged. The AC system (R134a) is likely designed to work within a 20F temperature differential between saturated vapor condensing temperature of the refrigerant (160PSI, 115F) and the ambient outdoor temperature (approx. 95F). The higher the ambient temperature, the narrower the range and the more difficult it is to reject heat into the atmosphere. Here's a quick test, with the AC on, soak your AC condenser with water from a garden hose and see if the air leaving the AC vents inside the cabin gets cooler. If it does, then it's a condenser sizing issue. When you soak your condenser with water, the surface of the condenser will approach the wet bulb temperature of the air which is always lower than the dry bulb temperature of the air, especially in the desert. This will simulate a lower ambient condensing temperature. In a nutshell, Ford didn't design the AC systems in our cars to handle high ambient temperatures. Basically, not enough heat transfer is taking place. I'm also under the assumption that the refrigerant charge is at factory level. That is another discussion. The fans will help, but not much. At highway speeds there is enough airflow to "convect" the heat off of the condenser. All things being equal, you don't have the problem at night when it's cooler or during the winter, (at temperatures less than 95F ambient) right? As for your fans, they seem okay to me. Happy trails.

Seems my memory is failing. My model year is a 2008. The stock plugs for a 3.5L in 2008 are Motorcraft part number AYFS22FM. They come in a box of 6 under the part number Motorcraft SP411. The stock plugs for my model year is an iridium enhanced fine wire platinum. Not entirely iridium. It seems that there is no 100% iridium Motorcraft plug for the Edge. For your model year (2013) Ford went to strictly platinum. A package of 6 is part number Motorcraft SP-520. The iridium plugs that will fit a 2013 model V6 (and probably out perform the platinum plugs) are: NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug Part No. 6509 Autolite Iridium XP Spark Plug Part No. XP5363 Denso Iridium TT Spark Plug: ITV20TT Part No. 4719 ACDelco Iridium Spark Plug Part No. 41-988 Denso ITV20 Iridium Power Spark Plug Part No. 5339 Link to advance auto parts and iridium plugs. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&vehicleIdSearch=629089&vehicle_629089=2013+%3A+Ford+%3A+Edge+Limited+%3A+3.5L+3496CC+V6+FI+VIN%3A+C&vehicle_407724=2008+%3A+Ford+%3A+Edge+Limited+%3A+3.5L+213CI+V6+FI+VIN%3A+C&searchTerm=iridium&searchedFrom=header Sorry for the confusion, Good luck.

Ford iridium is recommended. Platinum is also available but may not last as long.