wlepse

I have done some searching here but didn't come up with too much on the NA 3.5 and this issue. I did see someone state they may have had a clogged injector and injector cleaners helped. But here is what we have going on. Truck has about 150k on it and a little over a year ago a coil pack went bad and we had code. I replaced the bad coil pack and installed new plugs. The problem was gone. Then I started to notice a weird stutter or miss. It almost always happens under partial throttle, when it is happening we can get right on it and it seems to go away. I think it is more prevalent between 40-50mph and possible happens more on tip in or out on the throttle. I have tried forcing it to happen a lot on a drive hoping a code would be thrown but nothing comes up, not even a pending code in FORSCAN. I have tried injector cleaning and I did not see a change. Maybe it needs a stronger cleaner, so if someone has a suggestion I will give it a try. Short of the injector cleaner working, does anyone have any ideas? I hate to shotgun parts but I almost feel like that is my only choice at the moment. I was thinking with 150k on the clock I am due to replace O2 sensors so I was going to start there. Then maybe coil packs and plugs. Possibly MAF sensor, but what kills me is I think this should be throwing a code no matter which one of these is causing it. So has anyone had something similar?

My wife's truck recently started throwing an alarm for a TPMS fault. When I get the code it is a generic fault that could be just about anything to do with TPMS system. Doesn't state location of fault to be TPMS sensor, BCM or ECU, but could be any of the above from what I read. To me the most logical thing is the TPMS sensor itself and a battery being dead so I purchased a relearn tool to try to force them back online. I was able to get all four tires to relearn at some point and time but never all together and now the drivers front is completely unresponsive. I am assuming it is the sensor, but is there anything else I can do to confirm this prior to buying sensors and paying to have the old ones removed and new ones installed? In a thread just below this someone suggested the sensor batteries on a 2008 are likely dead since they are only designed for a 10 year life. Since I don't like throwing parts at things, I would like to confirm if these batteries did die prematurely, so any insight would be appreciated.

My understanding was this was released as part of a class action suit so I wasn't sure if this was a new release or just the last one which could have been from few years ago when they gave up on Sync 2.

I just got a thing in the mail, Customer Satisfaction Program 19K03 to either go in for the update or do it myself. But from past experience I am a bit gun shy about changing something that is mostly stable. So has anyone had any real experience with this release? Does it fix anything in particular? Take away any features? Any quirks that might make dealer install recommended?

In case someone else is searching I am going with the #3 cylinder being in the back bank by the driver. I think the confusion comes in between the difference of cylinder number and firing order. Cylinder numbers are: firewall 1 2 3 4 5 6 But firing order is: firewall 1 3 5 2 4 6 I am going to assume the P0303 references the cylinder number not firing order. I hope this is correct. Below are some of the resources I used to come to this conclusion. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2011-explorer-xlt-3-5l-v6-tivct-engine-misfire-p0201-p0301-p0316.451787/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/745073/Ford-Transit-2015.html?page=268

So for the last couple of months my wife's 2011 SEL Edge would seemingly pull timing but never threw a code. Originally I thought it might have something to do with the tone ring that needed replacement. Well after that was fixed it still happened but never threw any codes until about 2 weeks ago when I got a P0303-C. The CEL flashed for about 10 seconds then was gone. I cleared the codes and it finally came back indicating the same cylinder. So while I replaced the plugs about 50k ago with stick platinum plugs I plan on swapping them all out. I also picked up a coil pack to replace the #3 since it is likely on its way out. But I can't seem to find confirmation of which cylinder is which. One source said count from left to right on back bank. The other says to start in same spot but #2 is in front bank. Can someone please confirm which is correct?

I have been doing a bunch of work on the Edge and honestly it is a pain in the a$$ to jack each corner and get it on stands since I have limited space in my garage to move things around. This morning I was checking out Harbor Freight and found this cross beam that can lift the entire side of the car up. Has anyone tried this? It has decent reviews on the site but its max width is 37" and since I don't have the vehicle with me I don't know if that spans the factory jack points or not. Just wondering if anyone has had success with it...if so I may pick one up at lunch today.

I always do but only on the vertical parts of the hub. Those parts were actually in good condition, it seems like it was the OD of the hub and hub lip that locked it in place. So I will end up cleaning those up and coating them too.

Victory! The jack bolts worked. For anyone else having a similar issue this is what I did

Txs... hitting hasn't worked and after spending the first 15 minutes struggling I double checked the rotor and a repair manual to confirm there are no other screws. I saw a video where someone used bolts through the steering knuckle holes for rotor bracket. Going to give that a shot tonight and I will report back if it works.

I had this issue once before on this car but it was the rear. Everyone here said to just hit it harder, which I did, and it came off. Now my wife's truck needs the half shaft removed due to a cracked tone ring and since she is due for strut and brake replacement i figured i would do it all at once. Problem is I can't get the rotor off. It doesn't even wiggle. So far I have been soaking it in penetrant for the last 3-4 days and hitting it so hard with a 5lb hammer that I may be partially deaf. Last night used a torch to try to pop it, nothing is working. I have also tried a puller, but all that did was take a chunk out of the rotor. I also tried pry bars between the rotor and mounting tabs for caliper bracket but I am afraid to work that too hard and end up with a bigger problem. It's crazy because I have done these brakes at least twice before and never had an issue with the fronts. Has anyone seen this? Any other suggestions on how to remove these? I was thinking of trying to pop off the lower control arm, remove the strut bolts and take the assembly to the shop to press the hub out but that just seems crazy.

So I used FORScan Lite to pull the codes and much to my surprise the code was C0031:2F-68 for left front wheel sensor. I was convinced it was the passenger side, but I am having issues finding good info on this code. I was expecting this would be the same codes posted in a sticky to this sub forum to indicate a bad tone ring. But it isn't quite the same. I did see one reference for a different Ford model that said this was a wiring issue where there are small breaks. But nothing on this forum...has anyone else seen this?

Anyone have any tips on figuring out which wheel is the issue? I was hoping the lights would stay on and I could pull a code indicating which sensor is getting a bad signal but so far this is still an intermittent issue. Just wondering if anyone has any tips to figure out which one is bad short of pulling them.

Mine started when turning and braking together. Otherwise it was fine. Then after a few weeks it started throwing lights and warnings above 75mph. I too have around 120k.

My wife's does something similar and then it started throwing warnings after a week or so but only above 75-80mph. Most on the site were suggesting a cracked tone ring. I have been traveling for work so I haven't had a chance to check it out yet but might be a place to start.