akirby

It depends on whether the engine software is designed to take advantage of higher octane by advancing the timing. Thats where the extra power comes from - has nothing to do with the fuel per se.

Ford authority reporting Escape goes away late next year. Presumably to make way for the new low cost EVs. Maybe they’ll extend the wheelbase on the Bronco sport and add a fwd street oriented hybrid.

Smart Junction Box

Doubtful. Escape is also on the endangered list.

Auto hold lets you step on the brake in drive then release the brake and the brake will hold until you step on the gas again.

It’s already discontinued. Stopped a few months ago. They're going to add Super Duty production there in 2026.

Play song Hotel California Play artist Eagles Play album Hotel California Or create a playlist and say Play Playlist. Should still work even for burned CDs. Worst case just edit the mp3 tags. Works great.

Check shocks

Oh no - what broke on your engine? 😂 seriously though - Our 22 Nautilus does it in D mode. Are you riding the brake?

There is some built in automation that will help in addition to sport mode when it senses you’re going downhill with the brakes on. I still prefer manual downshifting but it’s manageable without it.

I’ve owned an edge 3.5L and a MKX 3.7L in the past. I’ve also owned a 2.0eb Fusion and Escape and we currently have a 2.0eb Nautilus. My F150 is a 3.5eb with 470 lb/ft. I’ve driven an Aviator 2.7eb. The 2.0eb blows away the 3.5 and 3.7 in drivability due to the increased low end torque of the ecoboost turbos. It only runs out of steam above 5500 rpm but most don’t drive at WOT. 2.7 is definitely faster but most drivers would never notice or care about the extra power. They just don’t drive that way. So if you do drive that way and care, get the 2.7L. For everyone else the 2.0l is a great engine especially with the 8 speed.

Normally you install a t harness behind the apim that splits off the factory speaker wires - from the apim to the amp and from the amp back to the speakers. But you probably have to bypass the B&O amp. Crutchfield will show you what fits and give you wiring instructions. I’ve found tons of audio advice including the B&O system upgrades at f150forum.com. Make sure you get a DSP either separately or built into the amp. Makes a world of difference.

The reason voltage isn’t the right test is that you can put 8 AA batteries in series and get 12 volts but that won’t start your car.

Just download the pdf to your phone and you can do searches to find things even faster. Browse it on your computer or tablet at home. There is ZERO need for a printed manual.

Ask the chemists not me.