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OBD Inspection Fail...How do I reset Readiness Monitors


RandallRogers

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My wife has a 2011 Ford Edge Sport with approximately 20k miles. She took it to our local vehicle inspection stations for its annual OBD ck before getting the tags renewed, and it failed. Everything passed on the OBD Results with the exception of a "Not Ready" for the "Fuel, Heated O2, O2, Cat, EGR, Evap". The told her to drive it over the weekend and everything should reset and be good to go. Later that day she called a local Ford dealership to see if she needed to bring it in for service, and they basically told her the same thing. A service tech told her that in order to reset the readiness monitors, she would have to drive between 80-130 miles of both city and highway driving. So, over the weekend we did just that, we drove it about 150 miles of which 100 was on the interstate. This morning I took it for its retest only to get a big fat FAILED result.

 

I am hoping that someone with Ford Edge ODB expertise, can tell me if there is some special way to perform this driving ritual in order to reset these mystical readiness monitors. Also, can there be something else wrong with my wife's Edge that would be causing the OBD not to be ready, because we have had no service, no oil changes, no body work, no new battery done to the vehicle in the past 4+ months.

 

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

 

RwR

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Or you could try reading the owner's manual:

 

Readiness for Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) testing

Some state/provincial and local governments may have

Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) programs to inspect the emission control

equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent

you from getting a vehicle registration. Your vehicle may not pass the I/M

test if the service engine soon indicator is on or not working

properly (bulb is burned out), or if the OBD-II system has determined

that some of the emission control systems have not been properly

checked. In this case, the vehicle is considered not ready for I/M testing.

If the service engine soon indicator is on or the bulb does not

work, the vehicle may need to be serviced. Refer to On-board

diagnostics (OBD-II) in this chapter.

If the vehicle’s engine or transmission has just been serviced, or the

battery has recently run down or been replaced, the OBD-II system may

indicate that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing. To determine if the

vehicle is ready for I/M testing, turn the ignition key to the on position

for 15 seconds without cranking the engine. If the service engine

soon indicator blinks eight times, it means that the vehicle is not

ready for I/M testing; if the service engine soon indicator stays on

solid, it means that the vehicle is ready for I/M testing.

The OBD-II system is designed to check the emission control system

during normal driving. A complete check may take several days. If the

vehicle is not ready for I/M testing, the following driving cycle consisting

of mixed city and highway driving may be performed:

15 minutes of steady driving on an expressway/highway followed by

20 minutes of stop-and-go driving with at least four 30-second idle

periods.

 

Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the

engine. Then, start the engine and complete the above driving cycle. The

engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once started,

do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete. If

the vehicle is still not ready for I/M testing, the above driving cycle will

have to be repeated.

 

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looks like these guys have already beat me to it. lol

 

if completing the drive cycle doesn't help it, then take it straight to your dealership. They'll need to monitor HEGO performance, long term and short term fuel trims, and a few other PID's to see why the readiness monitor isnt coming on and if you in fact have a lean or rich condition thats contaminating readings. Unlikely, but it can happen.

Historically we don't see many issues with engine performance on the edge though

 

 

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Okay, you got me...it did give a clue, but I need to buy a vowel or two!

 

As stated in my original post there has been no service performed, no oil change, no battery change nor battery issues, no transmission service nor transmission issues. I would not think that the OBD-II would just reset on its own without cause, but then again, car repairs aren't my gig, thus the question.

 

I was able to finally find it in the Owner's Manual in the very last section. And just for laughs, I want you jokesters to know that I did break out the manual first, but I missed it, then I spent several session on several Ford message boards to find the info before posting my question. I realize as a Mod that you see idiots like me all the time and you just love lurking just so you can pull the "you might want to check the manual first" zinger. Congrats to you, sir, you succeeded! :)

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looks like these guys have already beat me to it. lol

 

if completing the drive cycle doesn't help it, then take it straight to your dealership. They'll need to monitor HEGO performance, long term and short term fuel trims, and a few other PID's to see why the readiness monitor isnt coming on and if you in fact have a lean or rich condition thats contaminating readings. Unlikely, but it can happen.

Historically we don't see many issues with engine performance on the edge though

 

 

 

 

Thank you for your time and thoughful response! I finally have a response and useful info that I can run with! Have a great day!!!

RwR

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Okay, you got me...it did give a clue, but I need to buy a vowel or two!

 

As stated in my original post there has been no service performed, no oil change, no battery change nor battery issues, no transmission service nor transmission issues. I would not think that the OBD-II would just reset on its own without cause, but then again, car repairs aren't my gig, thus the question.

 

I was able to finally find it in the Owner's Manual in the very last section. And just for laughs, I want you jokesters to know that I did break out the manual first, but I missed it, then I spent several session on several Ford message boards to find the info before posting my question. I realize as a Mod that you see idiots like me all the time and you just love lurking just so you can pull the "you might want to check the manual first" zinger. Congrats to you, sir, you succeeded! :)

 

Sorry, but it's a personal pet peeve when it appears that people post questions without checking the manual first - especially when it then appears that you didn't read the info that I posted either. At least I posted the information for you instead of just saying RTFM.

 

It's also possible that you had a temporary power disruption to the PCM or there is some other problem that the dealer needs to check out. Just follow the instructions as FordGuru suggested and you should be able to take care of it.

Edited by akirby
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I was able to finally find it in the Owner's Manual in the very last section. And just for laughs, I want you jokesters to know that I did break out the manual first, but I missed it, then I spent several session on several Ford message boards to find the info before posting my question.

Download the pdf and you can search it much easier...plus, then you too can throw info back at those that didn't RTM...

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Here's an update after my wife took it in to the local dealership. Below are the steps they took to diagnose the issue as listed on the service ticket:

 

1. IDS RAN EEC QUICK TEST KOEC P160A KOEO P160A KOER P160A

2. CHECKED OASIS

NO SSM OR TSB'S APPLY.

3. REFERENCED PCED WHICH STATES THIS DTC SETS WHEN THE

PCM DETECTS A MISMATCH IN CONFIGURATION DATA AND PROGRAMABLE PARAMETERS BETWEEN

THE PCM AND BCM. PCED DIAGNOSTIC AIDS STATES TO REPROGRAM THE PCM TO LATEST

UPDATE AND IF PCM ALREADY HAS LATEST CALIBRATION CARRY OUT THE RELEARN VEHICLE

DATA PROCEDURE ON THE SCAN TOOL.

NOTE: NO AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

PRODUCTS FOUND DURING INSPECTION PER PCED.

4. CHECKED PCM FOR LATEST UPDATE

FOUND PCM ALREADY HAS LATEST CALIBRATION.

5. PERFORMED IDS RELEARN VEHICLE

DATA PROCEDURE.

6. CLEARED ALL CMDTC'S.

7. RERAN EEC QUICK TEST KOEO PASS

KOER PASS KOEC PASS

8. VERIFIED REPAIR PASS.

NOTE: VEHICLE NEEDS

DRIVED THROUGH DRIVE CYCLE BEFORE RETESTING EMISSIONS. RECOMMEND CUSTOMER

DRIVE VEHICLE 200 MILES BEFORE RETESTING EMISSIONS TO COMPLETE DRIVE CYCLE.

 

So, it looks like I'll be doing some driving this weekend. Now, why they didn't tell my wife to look in the manual for the correct method to complete the drive cycle instead of just saying to drive it 200 miles is anyone's guess. Last weekend I put 135 miles of mixed driving, so just driving doesn't seem to do the trick. This weekend I will be doing by the book. At least this time I know how to check to see if the drive cycle was completed before taking to be inspected and paying another $9.

 

My wife did ask the service advisor what happens if the drive cycle can't be completed, even after driving the suggested 200 miles. He told her to return it to the dealership we purchased it from and demand they fix it. Needless to say, this did not sit well. We bought our Edge from a dealership in East TN, because none of the dealers in Nashville had them in stock at the time. Based on what I read in the warranty, while Ford recommends returning your car to the purchasing dealership for repairs, it does not state it is a requirement.

 

What are y'alls thoughts and comments on this service advisor's recommendation to return it where we bought it for service if the drive cycle does not complete?

 

RwR

 

Oh, FordGuru, sorry! I didn't take the car in for service this morning, and my wife didn't feel comfortable telling the service advisor which tests to run based on your suggestions. So, if I cannot get the drive cycle to complete this weekend, I will be returning it with those suggestions like I'm an expert, even though my auto repair knowledge is limited to never drive a car without oil! lol

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My wife did ask the service advisor what happens if the drive cycle can't be completed, even after driving the suggested 200 miles. He told her to return it to the dealership we purchased it from and demand they fix it. Needless to say, this did not sit well. We bought our Edge from a dealership in East TN, because none of the dealers in Nashville had them in stock at the time. Based on what I read in the warranty, while Ford recommends returning your car to the purchasing dealership for repairs, it does not state it is a requirement.

 

What are y'alls thoughts and comments on this service advisor's recommendation to return it where we bought it for service if the drive cycle does not complete?

 

RwR

 

Oh, FordGuru, sorry! I didn't take the car in for service this morning, and my wife didn't feel comfortable telling the service advisor which tests to run based on your suggestions. So, if I cannot get the drive cycle to complete this weekend, I will be returning it with those suggestions like I'm an expert, even though my auto repair knowledge is limited to never drive a car without oil! lol

 

 

take it to whatever dealership you want man. i get so sick and tired of hearing things like that. your warranty is good ANYWHERE with a Ford logo nationwide. they CAN NOT refuse to work on your vehicle under warranty. I'm not saying that that particular dealership was refusing, but there are some out there that only wanna do warranty work on cars they sell and THAT ISN'T RIGHT, nor is it good business.

Once your car is out of warranty, that's another story, but i can assure you that NO dealership is going to turn away customer pay work, lol.

 

and no worries Randall. probably best the way it worked out anyway. Techs and advisors sometimes perceieve customer diagnostic requests the wrong way anyways.

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Thanks to everyone, especially FordGuru! I properly completed the driving cycle and offically passed emissions testing this morning with the help of some info that others may find beneficial. I went to the website of the OBD II for Ford vehicles (www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html) that give details on the proper way to complete the driving cycle. While the information given is more geared toward service techs with scan tools, I followed the instructions as close as possible completing steps 5-9 & 11.

 

I also followed these three recommendations:

1. Most OBDII monitors will complete more readily using a "steady foot" driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a "smooth" fashion will minimize the time required for monitor completion.

 

2. Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 fill with 3/4 fill being the most desirable.

 

3. The Evaporative Monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the porcedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize "fuel slosh".

 

 

By following the instruction I was able to complete the driving cycle in a little over an hour after driving approximately 45-50 miles.

 

Hopefully, this will help someone else that happens to have this same issue.

 

RwR

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Glad you finally passed.

 

Now back to the original problem.

 

Im firm believer that electronics DO NOT heal themselves!

Seen it happen TOO many times.

 

Im thinking youll soon have a CES light.

 

Question for FordGuru.

Will a loose/defective gas cap cause a "Fuel, Heated O2, O2, Cat, EGR, Evap" "Not Ready?"

 

ab

Edited by ablb
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  • 1 year later...

4x4,

Yes, this is the best way to reset the readiness of the OBD-II due to having the battery disconnected or some other engine maintenance performed. In fact I just played this driving game again this past weekend after replacing the battery in my wife's Edge and needing to pass emissions testing. If you have the manual for a 2011 Edge then it is on pages 355-356.

 

Good Luck!

RwR

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This is the resetting procedure for 2013 Edge sel.. Seems a lot less complex as the 2011.

Larry

To ensure proper operation of the battery management system (BMS),

any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their

ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A

connection at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate

measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system

operation.

Note: Electrical or electronic accessories or components added to the

vehicle by the dealer or the owner may adversely affect battery

performance and durability and may also affect the performance of other

electrical systems in the vehicle.

When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be

replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery that matches

the electrical requirements of the vehicle.

When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the

automatic transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of

this, the transmission may shift firmly when first driven. This operation is

considered normal and will fully update transmission operation to its

optimum shift feel.

If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed,

the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is

reconnected.

Note: Always dispose of automotive batteries in a responsible manner.

Follow your local authorized standards for disposal. Call your local

authorized recycling center to find out more about recycling automotive

batteries.

Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer,

some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When

the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must

relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and

performance. To begin this process:

1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.

2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the

engine.

3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.

5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.

6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.

• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to

relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.

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Yes it does! My wife gets so irritated whenever its time to get her Edge tested for emissions, because it seems to come around each year just after servicing or like this year, getting a new battery. She may upgrade to a new model just to avoid the dreaded reset!

We'll see how it resets in a couple months. Had it in the pole barn since late October ( stored for winter ) with the battery disconnected. Also suspended Sirius radio for 5 months.

 

Larry

Northern,Indiana

post-26092-0-88170700-1391977609_thumb.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

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