NWS Alpine Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) I had a chance to install my Thule rack setup today. It was going well until I got to the rivets and the hand tools provided didn't have enough force the crimp the rivet. I used my Makita impact driver drill and all was good (my Impact wrench was way overkill at 350ft/lbs). The longest part was measuring all the points to make it even and level. I used the Thule 42" tracks but could have used the 52" version for more length. The feet are Thule 460R feet with the 3101 fit kit for the tracks. I also picked the new aeroblades in 53" width. I also orded a 6 piece lock pack to lock the feet and my paddle holder. The current placement is 28" apart which is a very stable width to carry anything. I mounted the tracks slightly forward due to the slope of the roof. I wanted the rack to be slightly downward going forward since I will be carrying a 14' race paddleboard. Angled forward the wind doesn't lift it as much and with front tie downs it cuts the wind. To carry the paddleboard I also have an Inno INA446 SUP carrier and the Thule 839 "Get a grip" paddle carrier with locks. Also plan to get a bike carrier eventually. With our tailgate spoiler the racks need to be forward slightly to allow the tailgate to open without hitting the bike carrier or box. The aeroblades are silent at any speed and really changes the rack game. Yakima Whispbars are just as good. The sunroof is still fully functional which is great. I was using a strap rack as a temp solution from the old car. Let me know if you have any questions or guidance on your own install. I can give you my measurements on where I placed the tracks. Edited February 13, 2012 by NWS Alpine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwolson Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) Nice, clean job. I like hearing the new racks are quiet. I thought about replacing mine with the new aerobars, but the price scared me. I'll stick with my square bars and feet. Question, what's the roof material under the track assembly, metal coated with a plastic? I installed a Thule Slipstream on top of my racks. I moved the towers out to 34 inches because I carry either an 18 foot or 18 foot 3 inch kayak. I wanted the tie down strap in front and behind the cockpit combing. Also, tiedwon's closer to the internal bulkhead. I tie the stern down to a trailer hithc and the bow to a strap placed under the hood. BTW, do you work or just make mods to your car? Also, jealous you're even thinking about heading to the water. I may head out in a week or so if the temps stya in the 40's. I'll need to bundle up in fleece and a drysuit. Edited February 13, 2012 by rwolson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWS Alpine Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 The black parts that I riveted too are painted metal. They are epoxied to the sheet metal for the roof. I tried to get them off but they don't budge so I pulled the Helm online schematics and saw that you need to use a heat gun and a reciprocating saw to cut the epoxy. They are not replaceable as they get damaged. The rivets went on nice and tight and they aren't moving. Rackattack Toronto has a blog with this install on customer cars and have many miles under load. I am planning to do some front tie down straps under the hood to add some stability. With the 42" tracks the feet can get about 32-34" apart (measuring from foot to foot not to center bar). There is plenty of room for the longer tracks and I'm not sure why I didn't get them. The 53" bars are at the closest setting they can be for the feet with the location where I put the tracks. The square bars are much louder but the expense upgrading might not be worth it unless you can sell your old rack for a decent price. Starting from scratch there is no reason not to. I do work and don't have much time to work on my car. It took me over a month before I could install all my stereo stuff. I work as a Software Engineer so when I'm on a project time is limited for other things. When in between projects it's great. The weather was cold the last two days hitting down into the upper 40s but it's usually upper 70s and 80s. The water is always warm as we are in the tropical gulf stream down here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwolson Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 thanks for the update. Kudos on your attention to detail in every one of your posts. I understand the software development route; I do both software support and write diagnostics for an enterprise app. Fun trying to keep up with the app server changes and functionality plus changes in the web world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowride0 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 That is awesome!!! Pardon me if I sound dumb here but did you rivet the rails into the roof? Is this a custom job or a kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwolson Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 NWS Alpine mentioned using rivets in his installation. Here's a link to a systme used by Rack Attack - http://rackattackboston.wordpress.com/2010/05/08/ford-flex-with-bare-roof-%E2%80%93-thule-permanent-top-track-%E2%80%93-430r-tracker-ii-system/ They use flare nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwolson Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) NWS Alpine mentioned using rivets in his installation. Here's a link to a systme used by Rack Attack - http://rackattackboston.wordpress.com/2010/05/08/ford-flex-with-bare-roof-%E2%80%93-thule-permanent-top-track-%E2%80%93-430r-tracker-ii-system/ They use flare nuts. Rack Attack Toronto blog - http://rackattacktoronto.wordpress.com/category/base-rack-systems/ I thought about the installation for transporting my kayaks, but decided no for a few reasons. I'd drive to Rack Attack for the installation, but in my mind I truly think you need to drop the headliner to caulk under the flare nuts. Also, I'm wondering if your better off adding epoxy under the flare nuts inside the car roof to prevent leaks? I know thye applied caulking around the top of the flare nut, but suspect over time the flare nut might start to leak. So, I'll stick with my current setup shown in the attachment. Sorry, dirty car needing a bath an wax job Edited March 25, 2012 by rwolson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlong1099 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Very clean installation, looks awesome.. Actually what I'm looking for.. BUT, Any idea how this will affect the warranty on factory installed panoramic roof?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpeary Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) Very clean installation, looks awesome.. Actually what I'm looking for.. BUT, Any idea how this will affect the warranty on factory installed panoramic roof?? Looks very sharp, liked it so much I just ordered the identical setup this morning for my 2010! Will post install pics soon for sure! Correction, I ordered the 54" tracks instead. Edited April 7, 2012 by rpeary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpeary Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Looks very sharp, liked it so much I just ordered the identical setup this morning for my 2010! Will post install pics soon for sure! Correction, I ordered the 54" tracks instead. Hi Alpine, just got in this identical setup with 54" tracks and have a couple of questions for you. First, did you have to drill through 2 layers of metal to get the flare-nuts to drop down in fully? So far I've only drilled the back and front holes on 1 side. The back hole had 2 layers and front had 3. Both times this meant going all the way into the cabin. I called Rackattack and they said they have to do this all the time and to just pack that hole full of silicon. They tell me they have had only one car begin to leak in hundreds. Last, did that flaring tool work well for you? It did for me on the first one, however, on my second hole the flare-nut just spins around inside it's hole, no matter how much downward pressure I apply. Now I've already burned through 2 additional flare-nuts attempting to get it to take, with no luck. Needless to say, now I will need to order another package of flare-nuts to complete this, AND I think the hole is now to wallowed out to take one without that professional gun/tool that they use in the install video on the Rackattack website. There is no doubt in my mind this is the tool the installers use on a daily basis, as the one that comes in the package seems like a sad, sad joke. Let me know what you think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfer1 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 I know old topic but looking at this aftermarket setup with the rail screwed to the surface of the roof, I don't understand why the OEM which connects within the channel is not offered by Ford. Am I missing something? I would assume the OEM would be less intrusive to any function of the Vista roof. Am I crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfer1 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) After having my panoramic roof exploding from a rock impact against my cross bars , I strongly advice not to leave bars on, attach roof rack fairing or find another way of carrying extra luggage. They have gutted my car of all seats, carpet and liner and still finding glass.....$3000+ repair. Just a suggestion. I just ordered one of these...Rola 59110 http://www.carid.com/universal-trailer-hitches/rola-cargo-carriers-3727064.html Edited March 20, 2014 by surfer1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youri631 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Surfer1, wow, very sorry for you, thanks for the feedback. I was about to get a thule rack for this summer (not going with the way of the screws this set up requires), I guess I will have to find another way of carrying my windsurfing board. I like the ideas of the Rola 59110 for carrying general stuff though, good find. Edited March 23, 2014 by youri631 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfer1 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) youri631 I would still use the rack/cross bars for carrying long loads. I now drive with the crossbars removed. I am suggesting to Thule via email conversation that they make the fairing for the Aeroblades. The Aeroblades are very nice. The fairing is key to improved safety although not completely eliminating it. The roof fairing does transfer airflow up and over the cross bars and glass. I still can't believe what happened. I'm still finding super small pieces of glass in the car. They are detailing the interior next week. It's nice to have my car back although keeping my distance from other cars while on the highway. Edited March 23, 2014 by surfer1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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