Spark Plug replacement job with photos

[autom8r]

beston38st,

 

Removal of the plugs was probably the easiest part. Make sure you have compressed air or a can of that spray duster around. There is alot of debris that settles in the spark plug tube recesses in 100k miles. You don't want that stuff to fall into your cylinders.

 

If you run into a seized plug, you can always put it back together and go get reinforcements [pay a mechanic], mine were stiff, but I didn't need a 1/2" breaker bar to release them. Avoid temptation, use the stock plugs.

 

A day or two before you start, clean the engine at a do-it-yourself car wash. This is to remove all the road grime that settled on the engine so it doesn't end up falling into the engine as you remove the intake manifold. There are alot of little nooks and crannies that fill up with junk. Make sure it's dry before you start taking it apart.

 

I reused the manifold gaskets, there are three of them in pairs for front and rear opposing cylinders. Material is silicone, like an o-ring, durable, but not indestructible. I'll replace them on my next set of plugs in 90k miles.

 

Start by removing the electrical connections first [at least the one's you can see]. I remember removal of the spark plug coil wires was a bitch. Be careful that you don't break the clip. Practice on the one's in front. You'll barely be able to see them in the back. If you break a clip, you'll be far away from home. Not that it won't go back together, it may not STAY together. If you're using pliers to disconnect the plugs from the throttle body, etc. you're trying too hard.

 

There was also a brake booster vacuum line clamp that was difficult to get some pliers on. In the back on the firewall.

 

If you have manifold issues, the ECM will throw a code and you'll get a CEL. I have 6k since the change without a CEL.

 

Take your time on it. Be careful out there!

Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX SPARK PLUG replacement.pdf

Edited April 28, 2013 by autom8r

[forbes]

The write up and photographs on the spark plug replacement are fabulous and great help. Many thanks.

 

I would add one change. Since the spring clamp on the brake booster line is such a difficult reach and removal, I did not use the old clamp but rather used a stainless steel screw type clamp. This allowed me to slide the hose back onto the plenum and then reach in with a long screwdriver and tighten the clamp. Also, use a small amount of silcone grease to make the hose slide on easier.

[beston38st]

Just a quick note of thanks for all the info guys. I changed the plugs today and it was completely uneventful thanks to your pics, tips, and info.

 

Tom

[Larry]

lowelanxd,

Excellent,Excellent,Excellent. The procedure you posted for changeing spark plugs is a GREAT help for the do it your selfers. I'm not even close to time to change but sure will save the pdf's for future reference. The only thing I didn't see or maybe missed is the proper torque for the plugs and plenum bolts. If you have those would you please post?

 

Thank you

Larry

Northern,In.

[JimmyK]

You want to stay away for silicone anywhere near the intake. Silicone can contaminate O2 sensors.

[autom8r]

lowelanxd,

Excellent,Excellent,Excellent. The procedure you posted for changeing spark plugs is a GREAT help for the do it your selfers. I'm not even close to time to change but sure will save the pdf's for future reference. The only thing I didn't see or maybe missed is the proper torque for the plugs and plenum bolts. If you have those would you please post?

 

Thank you

Larry

Northern,In.

 

 

Larry:

 

Torque values for plugs and plenum bolts are in this attachment.

Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX SPARK PLUG replacement.pdf

[HackerF15E]

Thanks for that attachment.

[autom8r]

Values are in "lb-in" not "lb-ft". Divide "lb-in" by 12 for "lb-ft".

 

Be careful out there.

[Dbowl]

When would you replace a coil and plug wiring?

[autom8r]

When would you replace a coil and plug wiring?

 

I may replace the coils if I pulled the codes from the ECM and saw that the coil was misfiring. Remove each coil one at a time and use a VOM to measure the resistance of each coil, the resistances should closely match each other. Swap locations of the suspected malfunctioning one with a known operating one. If the misfire moves to that cylinder, the coil is bad.

 

Excessive plug gap may cause the coils to prematurely burn out. Examine the plug boot of the spark plugs and make sure they are clean and dry. A leaking valve cover gasket may cause the spark plug journal to fill with oil causing a misfire.

 

The plug wiring should not require replacement. If anything, the ECM may be damaged from the coil malfunction.

 

Good luck.

[ls973800]

Values are in "lb-in" not "lb-ft". Divide "lb-in" by 12 for "lb-ft".

 

Be careful out there.

Edited October 2, 2013 by ls973800

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Tackled the front 3 on the Edge today, plan to tackle the back 3 when I have more time. Had to use a 6" extension on my 5/8" spark plug socket to remove. Torqued new plugs to approx 132 in-lbs.

 

All 3 locations had the same characteristics:

 

Plug condition: not the best, but serviceable. May have been running a bit rich, or not providing complete combustion. Dielectric grease found smeared all over the top half of the plug. NEVER seen that before.

Plug gap: 0.077-78 (new plugs SP411 gapped to approx 0.054)

Journals: Clean & Dry; blown out with compressed air prior to plug removal

Coils/boots: Very good condition, but VERY difficult to remove, had to be persistent. Recommend covering nearby "hard" surfaces first to avoid scrapes/injury.

 

When removing the plug wires from the coils, pull the orange tab out, then depress the black tab in the center before attempting to remove. If you don't depress the black tab in the center, good luck to you.

 

Threading the new plugs in was a bit unnerving, as I found the path less than precise. Felt like the plug was wandering a bit, and had to be careful to take the path of least resistance to avoid crossthreading. Applied a tiny amount of Permatex dielectric grease to inside of coil boot prior to installation on plug.

 

Startup afterwards sounded much better (less noisy). Hopefully the euphoria will translate into mpg's too! Will post pics later.

Edited December 6, 2013 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[CET999]

After reading the submission and photos of December 2011 I chose to change the plugs on my own (instead of the $300 tab from Ford dealer). I had never done this on my Edge before, its 2007 3.5 at the time had reached 100,000 KM. Although I have DIY wrenched on every car & truck I have owned -- so I am familiar with the basics of the subject. From start to finish I wrote my self notes and took photos. In all the task took 2.5hr (that includes stopping to annotate and photograph. I have since converted that annotation and photo set into "How To set" for others. I thank those individuals of this forum for their sharing of their own experiences which led me to mine.

EdgeChangeSparkPlugsProcess.pdf

[Noah Forbes]

 

 

Larry:

 

Torque values for plugs and plenum bolts are in this attachment.

Very good Post! The attachment is very usable for torques for the plenum bolts.

Edited February 7, 2014 by Noah Forbes

[TheRealLawless]

Awesome write up, biggest PITA was the heated pcv port on the manifold. Why can't everything be this easy?

[PaulSchott]

Nice write-up, Just got my edge with 82,000 miles. It actually looks fairly easy with just an additional removal. When I first saw the engine I was wondering how the heck you got to the 3 back plugs. It is still easier than my 2.5 Ford Contour engine. That thing was a nightmare to work on. Nothing beats the plug change on my wife's 4 liter jeep engine. 4 bolts for the coil on plug unit and 6 plugs

[rschriever]

I just replaced mine at 110k on our 2007 Edge. I was starting to see a decline in fuel economy. The plug swap is not hard. The only cursing happened when disconnecting the vacuum lines behind the plenum. I used OEM plugs. Fuel economy seems to be back to normal. I also swapped my plenum gaskets. I measured the old gaskets. They were 1mm thinner than the new ones, so they had taken a set. For $35, I bought OEM from the dealer. The next owner gets to do the next swap.

 

On another note, I say the Edge has done really well. We have only swapped, plugs, brake pads, turned rotors twice, battery, sway bar bushings, seat switch and oil changes every 3k since 18k when we bought it.

[frebrd18]

I just completed my plug change today, I also replaced the PCV valve while I had access to it. I have 94k and used OEM MC plugs. Mine is an 07 so it has the heated PCV valve. Great write ups already posted so I won't elaborate, thanks lowelanxd! As someone suggested, I replaced clamp on brake booster hose with screw clamp which made that a snap to reattach. With the PCV Valve replacement, insert the new valve facing the rear of the truck and rotate it about 90 degrees CW. This will ensure that the electrical connection can be made. I found the removal of the upper intake manifold to be much harder than the reinstall. My Edge was running great but I felt it was time for a plug and PVC change. I also had the cooling system flushed at the dealer ($140 +) and cleaned and recoiled my K & N air filter. Changed the drive belts a couple weeks ago, so hopefully My Edge will be rolling smooth for a while. Thanks to all that have contributed to this post.

[frebrd18]

I just got home from a road trip and got 24.8 (all highway obviously) mpg so I guess my tune up was a success. Not bad for an 07 pushing 100k and Maine speed limits! Think I was getting around 22 before.

[cbrf4i33]

Very much appreciated! Thank you for the pics!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

A couple of videos put up by a Ford tech on youtube:

 

Intake Manifold Removal:

 

Spark Plug Replacement:

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

NOTE: All this could be only for the 2007 MY, just thought I'd put it out there.

 

Had a bit of fun replacing the rear bank plugs. There's a brace at the rear of the intake manifold, well hidden on the Edge, and you can see it in the video above at about the 3:53 mark. Wouldn't see if unless you went looking for it. A 6-9 inch extension for the socket wrench should make it easy to remove. It won't fall out, will stay in the "bushing", IME.

 

There's also an electrical connector at the bottom of the manifold on the manifold side of the PCV hose that you have to know is there and disconnect completely by feel. You won't see it on the intake manifold in the video at about 6:40 in.

 

Pulling the hose off the PCV Valve was easy (no clamps); did have to use a wrench to turn it and remove it though.

 

And the spring clamp on the brake vac hose were facing the firewall, so it made for a real joyous occasion

 

Plugs ranged from 0.077 to 0.079. Edge not running too badly considering, but definitely better now.

 

Easier for me just to slide the EVAP valve off the bracket and disconnect the electrical connector; much more freedom of movement.

 

And lest I forget, this is the DIRTY throttle body the dealership keeps telling me I need to have serviced:

2007 Ford Edge Upper Intake Manifold R&R.PDF

Edited May 8, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[csanders81]

Great write up lowelanxd! I had the cooling fan assembly go out on my wife's Edge and since I was gonna be removing a lot of parts I decided to change the plugs also, she was having a minor missing problem when driving down highways and anything above 45mph. Your infographic was super helpful. I don't know I could've tackled it without everything you provided. Maybe, but would've taken much longer. Her Edge is running much better and the mph have improved immensely just from those minor changes. Also did a new air filter. Thanks again for your very detailed instructions. Only thing I noticed different between the Edge and the Lincoln is there's no plastic shroud covering the front valve cover. I'm sure that's just a Lincoln thing though!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

A couple more user videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y37I87iVtFU

[Wesley]

My experience with changing the plugs on our '08 Edge was a bit different. I changed the brake booster several years ago and was familiar with removing the intake manifold.

A simple 30 minutes later and I had access to the rear plugs. The front plugs came out easily with little effort, even though I soaked them with WD-40 for 10 minutes or so after breaking loose the plugs about 1/8 turn. The rear plugs were a bit more difficult. Even after soaking them, I was cautious for the first couple of turn but they too came out easily.

After 150,000 miles, I was a bit surprised at the plug gap versus how well it ran. A .100" gap gauge passed through with no problem, maybe as much as .110"!

I chose NGK Iridium plugs from Rockauto. Some anti-sieze on the threads and they were back in no time. 45 minutes later and I was done, for a total of 1 1/2 hours.

I picked up an instant 1/2 mpg within the first 30 miles, and I expect to see a bit better after the first tank when I zero the MPG calculator.