Need Help -- 2008 Limited Battery Drain Problem

[Peveto]

All:

Been around here for a while, lurking, but just joined today -- I've got some electrical issues on my wife's 08 Edge Limited that I can't get sorted out.

 

Sync, Power Hatch, no Nav, dealer installed Ford remote start module.

 

About three weeks ago, on a Sunday morning, the wife and I went out on our daily errands, and took the Edge. She drove, as I was busy moving cars around so that she could get the Edge out of the driveway -- I didn't hear it start. I did notice that the passenger side map light was on when I got in the car, and mentioned something to the effect of "leaving lights on in your car all night is a good way to get a dead battery..." Fast forward an hour or so later, we're leaving our first stop, and I'm driving now -- when I start the Edge it is labored, like it's got a dead battery... But it eventually fires off and we move on our way. One more stop, this time I remote stop, so I don't get to listen to when the car starts, but it was running when I came outside.

 

On our last stop, when we come out of Fry's, the battery is dead, car just clicks when you turn the key. Pop the hood, and see a substantial amount of corrosion on the terminals. Go grab a wire brush and jump box from the install bay @ Fry's and clean the terminals/jump the car. Drive immediately to get a new battery, as the batter checker shows this one is shot. Throw a new battery in, and all is well.

 

Or so I thought.

 

Fast forward a week, I'm out of town on business travel and get at text from my wife that the Edge is stone dead. She hadn't driven it in ~3 days, and it won't do anything. My dad comes over to bring her our spare car, and jump off the Edge. He drives the Edge back to his place with no issues, and puts the battery on charge. Yesterday, we got to take a look at it.

 

I hooked up my DMM in series with the battery clamp, and shut all the doors and let the car sit for half an hour. With everything resting, I've got a 0.68 amp draw. I started pulling and replacing fuses, and cannot seem to isolate what circuit the draw is on. I pulled the factory remote start, no change. Pulled all the fuses in the drivers kickpanel, as well as those under the hood.

 

Has anyone experienced similar drain issues on their Edge?

 

Thanks in advance.

--Peveto

[Peveto]

Update -- I *may* have my problem solved.

 

Went back over to work on the Edge Saturday morning, before it got cold here in Dallas. Prior to doing this, I started downloading schematics and diagrams for the Power and Ground distribution in the Edge. I noticed one comment, only mentioned in the Service Manual, that got me thinking:

 

"If the battery is disconnected, discharged or if power to the SJB is interrupted/disconnected, the instrument panel dimmer switch requires re-calibration. Rotate the instrument panel dimmer switch from the full dim position to the dome ON position. This will make sure that all displays are visible under all lighting condition"

 

So I started my diagnostics, again. Pulled every fuse in the car, as well as the positive cable to the starter and alternator. I then removed the fuse box (PDM) from under the dash. Started replacing fuses one at a time -- under the hood first, then in the PDM under the dash. When we got to fuse #5, I got a spike, that then calmed down to 0.13 amp drain. The first dome light fuse woke up all the lights in the car -- but I couldn't turn off the rear cargo lamps or the rear overhead lamp. This is when I remembered the statement from the service manual above. I roll the dimmer switch all the way to the top, to the on position and back off, and lo and behold the cargo lamps turn out. Replaced all of the rest of the fuses without incident. Once the car "goes to sleep" i know settle in at a 0.02 Amp drain, which is within spec.

 

Not sure what, if anything, the dimmer switch had to do with my previous drain, but, I'm settled back to 0.02 Amp for now, which I'm happy with. Not sure if this will help anyone else, for that matter, but next time I replace the battery, you can be sure I'm going to remember to adjust that dimmer switch.

 

--Peveto

Edited February 8, 2023 by 1004ron
No need to quote your own posts in its entirety.

[RSSJR269]

I have 2011 EDGE with similar simptoms other than the emergency flashers come on by themselfs. When i put the charger on it throws

lots of errors from recalibrating sync system to charging system error. I am trying the dimmer trick but not sure that is going to work since it has been changed to a two button system from a thumbwheel switch.

[akirby]

Did you try replacing the battery?

[NeckDlight]

Did anyone ever figure this out. I just bought a 2008 Ford edge limited with no warrenty. I don't drive it maybe two days and the battery goes dead. I do not have a warranty with it and have not started digging into this yet. I did read somewhere people were leaning towards the panoramic roof. Again I haven't started digging into it. I did let my battery slowing charge for a day or so and took it to advance where they tested the battery and they told me it was good. Thoughts and opinions?

[akirby]

Unless you know the battery was recently replace, just get a new one. Some testers don’t work and a lot of bad batteries test ok.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Should be date codes on the battery, including manufacturing date, and possibly install date. If not sure, take and post lots of pics. Also check batt terminals for corrosion/tightness.

[enigma-2]

The best advice is to replace your battery, it's probably going bad. As a battery ages, unless it's kept fully charged (it's slowly discharging even when the car is off), the plates will grow crystals, lowering the battery's capacity. If the new battety wad rated at, say, 650 CCA, a battery with crystalized plates may only be able to provide 400 CCAs. But, a standard battety test will still show that the voltage is ok. So even with good voltage the battery is still failing.

[NeckDlight]

The sticker on the battery says 11/16. It is a car quest battery. I am going to get a battery load tester. And try it. I have always been a interstate battery guy.the battery in question is a car quest battery.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

The tester can help you figure out if it is a battery or alternator problem. I don't believe CarQuest as a brand has issues, but a standard lead acid battery cannot withstand repeated deep discharge very well. So it may be that rather than battery quality at issue. You have not stated mileage, but being a 2008, it is possible the alternator has failed/begun to fail. As to the work required to replace the alternator, check out this MACT video

[NeckDlight]

There is 135550ish on the vehicle. The alternator appears to be working with the vehicle running i have 14 volts at the battery. I can dissconnect the negative cable while it's running and the vehicle stays running. Maybe that's old fashion and doesn't work with newer vehicles. I'm not ready to throw parts at this until I start eliminating possibilities

[macbwt]

What is the draw on the battery when everything is turned off?

[enigma-2]

The sticker on the battery says 11/16. It is a car quest battery. I am going to get a battery load tester. And try it. I have always been a interstate battery guy.the battery in question is a car quest battery.

My battety is just a little older than yours and measured at 475 CCAs (650 CCA rated). I slapped on a CTEK charger for 24 hours and too it off on level 7. Still only reading 479 CCA.

The best tester is the Solar BA-7 (tests both the battery's capacity and charging system).

[NeckDlight]

Unless I'm missing something or doing it wrong I have checked a couple different times and cannot find any draw

[enigma-2]

Your battery has crystal buildup on the plates. It will continue to read good voltage until the end. Has voltage, but not the capacity. A new battery is the fix.

---

Unrelated, CTEK wrote me back last night and told me that their charger's cannot demineralize a battery that has good (24+) voltage.

My CTEK refused to start in level one (the desulphating phase).

They suggested I hunt down a "local battery workshop" who may have "profesdional equipment" that can "revive" a battety. 《Snort》

[NeckDlight]

So I got myself a solar7 battery tester. Charged the battery up and checked the battery I have 382 CCA

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Time for a new battery. Highly recommend the Optima 34 group size. It will fit, with the provided adapters.

 

Does the charging system test ok, tho?

[NeckDlight]

The charging system is good. I just have a bad battery

[macbwt]

The charging system is good. I just have a bad battery

I have a less than 2 yr old AGM that is showing some voltage issues so new batteries fail also.

[Hlm52910]

Okay my 2008 ford edge has been doing this same thing. we have gotten 2 new batteries in the span of 10 months and the problem still persists. my dad says there’s a parasitic load on the car, because something is draining the battery. if i don’t drive it for 1-2 days then the battery dies… i’m reading this page and obviously this is a different problem than just an old battery. i don’t know what i should do though. 

[1004ron]

46 minutes ago, Hlm52910 said:

Okay my 2008 ford edge has been doing this same thing. we have gotten 2 new batteries in the span of 10 months and the problem still persists. my dad says there’s a parasitic load on the car, because something is draining the battery. if i don’t drive it for 1-2 days then the battery dies… i’m reading this page and obviously this is a different problem than just an old battery. i don’t know what i should do though. 

You need to Google how to find a parasitic drain, or take it to an Auto-Elec shop, correct that, then get it to a place like Autozone to do a battery test which also includes a test of the charging system.

 

A lead acid battery will be destroyed by just a single deep discharge event, and that the reason why you've needed two in ten months.

[enigma-2]

One way to self check for a parasite draw, is to connect an ammeter across the positive lead, then remove one fuse at a time to see which circuit cuts the drain. Once the circuit is found, it's a "simple" case of tracking the wiring back to the device(s) involved. 

 

Any wiring modified by you or a previous owner? (Remote starters and cameras are the usual candidates).

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

a module not falling asleep can cause this, or something that spikes hard when it activates.

 

if you can get an amp meter or ammeter and record amp drain over time (video) for at least 40 minutes from just before engine shutoff, you may find the culprit. or go fuse hunting, usually in the BCM/SJB/pass compartment fusebox.

 

some battery testers will also tell you if there is AC voltage in the circuit (generator fault) but you can use a DVoM for the same.  use YouTube to find out how.

Edited January 29, 2022 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[Skipper96]

I am having exact same problem, new battery installed alternator charging at 14.2.  I can jump it and it will start but when I shut it off, won't start again.  Completely died on the road while I was driving after battery light came on and ABS came on, assuming ABS was due to battery dying.  Any thoughts on what's happening? 

Edited February 7, 2023 by 1004ron

[1004ron]

I'd get that new battery load tested.