2011 ford edge fog lights

[p2edge]

hey guys i have a 2011 ford edge se but it didnt came with the fog lights. i called the dealer but they said that if it didn't came with them i will not find them

does anybody knows where i can get these fog lights??

[Mazz]

2011s don't have fog lights. If you are referring to the vertical strip lights on the front, they are simply additional running lights. They do nothing much to aid in driving during foggy conditions.

[wilsons66604]

2011s don't have fog lights. If you are referring to the vertical strip lights on the front, they are simply additional running lights. They do nothing much to aid in driving during foggy conditions.

Those vertical LEDs are what sold me on the Edge. They reminded me of the lights in my new fridge!

I wish I could get them to be my Daytime Running Lights. Not an option in the states

...those Canadians get all the perks!

Edited November 13, 2011 by wilsons66604

[Limited59]

...those Canadians get all the perks!

 

Didn't know you guys got jipped on the LED DRLs. Now I feel the extra $6,000 for the equivalent model up here is justified. Thank goodness for federal DRL laws! :happy feet:

[mv-clear]

...those Canadians get all the perks!

 

I wish we got all the perks, We don't get any of the sync features, no travellink, no weather, no traffic, no movies etc.. none of those features are available in Canada, most consumer electronics are the same as well. They have features stripped out before it hits Canada, so we get screwed as the features we read about on the Internet for most products show us whats available in the U.S. and not what we get when we actually spend more for the same product in Canada... not to mention the 13% tax here..

 

M.

[p2edge]

ok guys tahnks for the info but is there a webpage or a place that i can call and find them

[dr.edge]

ok guys tahnks for the info but is there a webpage or a place that i can call and find them

 

Just contact the parts department at your dealer.

[NWS Alpine]

If I were you I would upgrade them to the more powerfull DRL version that some owners have used to modify the exisiting light bars. They are copies of the same DRL lights in the porsche 997 models. Much brighter and serve as a functional DRL.

[shantz]

Those vertical LEDs are what sold me on the Edge. They reminded me of the lights in my new fridge!

I wish I could get them to be my Daytime Running Lights. Not an option in the states

...those Canadians get all the perks!

 

Not an option for us either... our DRL's are actually the amber signal lamps located in the headlights.

If I could... I'd change them too.

 

As far as perks... try driving a Canadian Edge... the SYNC system is stripped of the all the useful features that you guys get standard.

[milosm]

If I were you I would upgrade them to the more powerfull DRL version that some owners have used to modify the exisiting light bars. They are copies of the same DRL lights in the porsche 997 models. Much brighter and serve as a functional DRL.

 

Well Alpine I did just that, I got a pair of LED light bars fromSuperbrtghtleled.com mounted them behind the grill grading along side the FORD emblem. They come on full brightness when you start the car and dim down when the headlights are turned on.

[dr.edge]

I'd like to stay with the stock vertical light assembly and just upgrade the LEDs to brighter ones. Any ideas? Have a feeling I'll have to get under the car and take them out to see if I can retrofit them. I'm not afraid to disassemble car light assemblies. I did it on my son's car to install LED angle eyes. Here's the link to the forum with the AE install and couple of photos. My son's car is shown in post # 34 on the page ("BVWest" license plate).

 

 

Check out this thread on the forum - http://www.fordedgef...11-limited-diy/, it should show you everything you need to do to rebuild the LED light bars. I did this to mine (I retained the internal diffuser bar) and they definitely look better than the stock parking lights as they're closer in color temperature to the 6000K HIDS I have installed. Plus, I run them as DRL's on a separate DC power supply putting out about 16V.

[NWS Alpine]

Well Alpine I did just that, I got a pair of LED light bars fromSuperbrtghtleled.com mounted them behind the grill grading along side the FORD emblem. They come on full brightness when you start the car and dim down when the headlights are turned on.

 

 

Very nice. It's crazy how much safer you are with real DRL like the ones you have. People really see you during the day. When I get some time I will be retrofitting the stock light bars with similar lights. Either the OEM Phillips kit http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12820WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1324248093&sr=8-3 or the lightwerkz one http://shop.lightwerkz.net/LED-Daytime-Running-Light

 

Some of the lighting forums are highly impressed with the lightwerkz kit. It's almost the same as the phillips kit and suspected to come from the same factory. Use shared components.

 

The Phillips 8 led kit is a little more than I want to spend bit it's great. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12824WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BKW/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

[milosm]

Very nice. It's crazy how much safer you are with real DRL like the ones you have. People really see you during the day. When I get some time I will be retrofitting the stock light bars with similar lights. Either the OEM Phillips kit http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12820WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1324248093&sr=8-3 or the lightwerkz one http://shop.lightwerkz.net/LED-Daytime-Running-Light

 

Some of the lighting forums are highly impressed with the lightwerkz kit. It's almost the same as the phillips kit and suspected to come from the same factory. Use shared components.

 

The Phillips 8 led kit is a little more than I want to spend bit it's great. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12824WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BKW/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

I see where you got the inspiration to retrofit your vertical light bars. Being an dumb old country boy, thats just a lot of work that I do not want to get into. The approaches Frybel and Dr.edge took, both have their merits. I believe that Frybels retrofit would be more functional in a bright sunny day and you would be able to see the lights at any distance. On the other hand Dr.edges approach is more aesthetic and gives the untouched OEM appearance by leaving the diffuser tube and it may do just that and diffuse the light to where its only effective at night. (I hope Im wrong) At this point and time only Dr.edge knows since there are no additional photos.

I think what Frybel & Dr.edge did is outstanding and will get a lot of other retrofitters thinking with all the data they provided in their posts.

After reviewing both Frybel and Dr.edges photos, correct me if Im wrong (and Im wrong a lot), I could see no reason for Dr. edge to remove the lens assembly since he was not removing the diffuser tube, when all he had to do was cut a slot in the gray case behind the diffuser tube wide enough for the LED elements to shine thru and secure (RTV, JB kwik plastic) the LED light strip assembly in place. You would have the same effect.

AS you can see I went a different route, it started out removing the bottom chrome grill and replacing it with a paint to match one, it made a big difference as you can see. Since I was removing the shroud to change out the grill, I decided to add LEDs I went with www.superbrightleds.com part No.drl-cw5-bm2 three wires to connect ground,12 volts ,and headlights. For the 12volt supply I went into the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment and connected it to spare fuse position #89( it is active whenever the system power is on (the key switch). The other wire was spliced into the yellow parking light (yellow/ green wire at the bulb socket) with a splice connecter. The LEDs come on full brightness when the car is started, and dim whenever the parking or headlights are on. Mounting the lights was also very easy all I did was cut the mounting brackets that came with them in half, re bend the screw tabs, drill a new hole in the bracket and screw it to the back side of the grill grading.

One thing I did notice is that the angle of the LEDs is critical due to the reflectors narrow beam, one or two degrees in either direction will affect lights brightness.

Edited December 19, 2011 by milosm

[dr.edge]

I see where you got the inspiration to retrofit your vertical light bars. Being an dumb old country boy, that's just a lot of work that I do not want to get into. The approaches Frybel and Dr.edge took, both have their merits. I believe that Frybel's retrofit would be more functional in a bright sunny day and you would be able to see the lights at any distance. On the other hand Dr.edge's approach is more aesthetic and gives the untouched OEM appearance by leaving the diffuser tube and it may do just that and diffuse the light to where it's only effective at night. (I hope I'm wrong) At this point and time only Dr.edge knows since there are no additional photos.

I think what Frybel & Dr.edge did is outstanding and will get a lot of other retrofitters thinking with all the data they provided in their posts.

After reviewing both Frybel and Dr.edge's photos, correct me if I'm wrong (and I'm wrong a lot), I could see no reason for Dr. edge to remove the lens assembly since he was not removing the diffuser tube, when all he had to do was cut a slot in the gray case behind the diffuser tube wide enough for the LED elements to shine thru and secure (RTV, JB kwik plastic) the LED light strip assembly in place. You would have the same effect.

AS you can see I went a different route, it started out removing the bottom chrome grill and replacing it with a paint to match one, it made a big difference as you can see. Since I was removing the shroud to change out the grill, I decided to add LED's I went with www.superbrightleds.com part No.drl-cw5-bm2 three wires to connect ground,12 volts ,and headlights. For the 12volt supply I went into the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment and connected it to spare fuse position #89( it is active whenever the system power is on (the key switch). The other wire was spliced into the yellow parking light (yellow/ green wire at the bulb socket) with a splice connecter. The LED's come on full brightness when the car is started, and dim whenever the parking or headlights are on. Mounting the lights was also very easy all I did was cut the mounting brackets that came with them in half, re bend the screw tabs, drill a new hole in the bracket and screw it to the back side of the grill grading.

One thing I did notice is that the angle of the LED's is critical due to the reflectors narrow beam, one or two degrees in either direction will affect lights brightness.

 

 

Good post, here's some additional info after running these as DRL's for a while.

 

The intensity of the lights is reduced a bit by keeping the diffuser bar in place, but not that much. The bigger factor that impacts how visible they are (as you found out) is how they are aimed as they have a fairly tight beam pattern. Once you get off-axis, they really lose their intensity.

 

The wiring harness that usually comes with these is a piece of junk. It's intended to just hook directly to the battery and when it sees the voltage jump to the normal charging voltage (13.6V - 14V) it switches a relay to supply a boosted voltage to the LEDs - something around 16V. I found that this would rarely work and even after getting a replacement from the vendor, it still didn't work. You can't just connect them to battery voltage since they need more than the typical 12V (at least these ones did). I used an aftermarket 12V to 18V DC power supply and that seems to drive them quite nicely. I could go with a higher voltage and they get brighter still, but I think that may impact their longevity.

 

When I started this mod, I wasn't sure if I was going to keep the diffuser bar in place which is why I split the lens assembly from the back. I think you'd want to that no matter what since cutting the slot in the rear generates a fair amount of plastic shavings that would end up inside the light and I wanted to make sure that it would be clean inside when I sealed it all up.

 

Finally, here are a couple of pictures, one with the OEM LED's lit, the second is with the high intensity LED's lit. I just used my phone so the exposure's not the best, but you can see a bit of the difference between the two.

 

 

 

[dr.edge]

And yes, they were taken today, 5 days before Christmas, in Minneapolis!

 

No white Christmas for us this year!

[choff1138]

And yes, they were taken today, 5 days before Christmas, in Minneapolis!

 

No white Christmas for us this year!

 

We have been stuck with some really weird storms here in AK this month - some days it seems like we might not have a white Christmas either - It will probably be icy though. Winds strong enough right now to sway the 17 story building I am. Fingers crossed the rain doesn't come with this storm.

[dr.edge]

dr. dredge,

 

What would you say the percentage brightness difference is between the OEM and the upgraded LEDs installed within the diffuser? Before undertaking this mod, I want to make sure the additional light output is significant enough to warrant my time to install them.

 

Also, would you list the manufacturers, part #'s and web sites for the components / assemblies you used for your install? Thanks.

 

It's hard to say exactly how much brighter the lights are - maybe 3 - 4 times brighter? There's only one high power LED in the original assembly firing vertically through the diffuser, while the new unit has 5 LED's. Either way, they're bright enough that if I'm stopped behind a car on a sunny day, I can see their reflection quite clearly. The other reason that I went through all the effort to add them in is that at night, I wanted them to more closely match my HIDs. With this setup, they're both in the 6000K range, rather than the sickly yellow that the stock lights put out.

 

Here's a link to the DRL kit I used.. Since the auto-sensing wiring harness wasn't working for me, I used a PST-DC2171 DC to DC converter from PowerStream to drive it at 15V. If you want it brighter still, you can drive it at either 18V or 24V but I'm not sure how long the LEDs would last.

 

Here's a picture of the power supply mounted behind the dash just to the left of the glove box. The 3 switches (2 blue, 1 red) just in front are for controlling whether or not the LEDs or HIDS come on while the engine is running. The third switch is my MFT reset switch (basically installed inline with fuse 29). The switches are hidden by the glove box cover but accessible when you open it..

 

[milosm]

It's hard to say exactly how much brighter the lights are - maybe 3 - 4 times brighter? There's only one high power LED in the original assembly firing vertically through the diffuser, while the new unit has 5 LED's. Either way, they're bright enough that if I'm stopped behind a car on a sunny day, I can see their reflection quite clearly. The other reason that I went through all the effort to add them in is that at night, I wanted them to more closely match my HIDs. With this setup, they're both in the 6000K range, rather than the sickly yellow that the stock lights put out.

 

Here's a link to the DRL kit I used.. Since the auto-sensing wiring harness wasn't working for me, I used a PST-DC2171 DC to DC converter from PowerStream to drive it at 15V. If you want it brighter still, you can drive it at either 18V or 24V but I'm not sure how long the LEDs would last.

 

Here's a picture of the power supply mounted behind the dash just to the left of the glove box. The 3 switches (2 blue, 1 red) just in front are for controlling whether or not the LEDs or HIDS come on while the engine is running. The third switch is my MFT reset switch (basically installed inline with fuse 29). The switches are hidden by the glove box cover but accessible when you open it..

 

 

It seems like other people were having problems with the DRL switch, they just cut it out and connected to the ignition switch. You could do the same by tapping off system power at fuse#89(in the relay/fuse box under the hud) its only hot when the car is running. The lights would be on as long as you’re driving, as they are now and save you the price of a power supply.

If you wanted them on only when tever the lights are on, connect them to the old vertical bar LED power source.

It you want to change brightness for day and night driving I post a simple sketch that would change the LED’s from parallel to series connection and reduce brightness by half.

[dr.edge]

It seems like other people were having problems with the DRL switch, they just cut it out and connected to the ignition switch. You could do the same by tapping off system power at fuse#89(in the relay/fuse box under the hud) its only hot when the car is running. The lights would be on as long as you're driving, as they are now and save you the price of a power supply.

If you wanted them on only when tever the lights are on, connect them to the old vertical bar LED power source.

It you want to change brightness for day and night driving I post a simple sketch that would change the LED's from parallel to series connection and reduce brightness by half.

 

These LEDs need to run at 15 - 16V (that's what the original control box provided). At normal battery voltages, they're too dim so just hooking them to a 12V source wouldn't work. I saw the same reports from people saying that they just cut out the failed control module and wired it directly to the battery. They must not be too concerned about how much light they produce.

 

On mine, everything is hooked up to a switched 12V source so it's all automatic, the switches are only there so I can select what I want to have as DRLs. Most of the time I just run with the lower LED bars, but if I want to, I can have the headlights lit as DRLs, or both. I don't use the switches to turn them on as they are on whenever the engine is running.

 

Thanks, but I like having them as bright as they are now all the time. Like I said, at night, they match the 6000K HID kit I have installed.

[dr.edge]

So you don't have to boost the voltage to 15V with a power supply when you tap off fuse #89? I thought the the car's native system voltage was too low at 13.6V to 14V. I would chose the "always" on for the DRLs as opposed to the switch.

 

Yes, you always have to boost the voltage - at least for this particular kit, I'm assuming others are similar. And the DRLs ARE always on, I just wanted to have the option of switching them off if I wanted to revert it back to completely stock appearance without having to pull some connector. Or, if I want to run the headlights as DRLs, then I can switch the LEDs off and activate the headlights as DRLs. But either way, they're all running off fuse #91 (#89 doesn't exist on the Sport) so that they're activated automatically.

 

 

[frybel]

These LEDs need to run at 15 - 16V (that's what the original control box provided). At normal battery voltages, they're too dim so just hooking them to a 12V source wouldn't work. I saw the same reports from people saying that they just cut out the failed control module and wired it directly to the battery. They must not be too concerned about how much light they produce.

 

On mine, everything is hooked up to a switched 12V source so it's all automatic, the switches are only there so I can select what I want to have as DRLs. Most of the time I just run with the lower LED bars, but if I want to, I can have the headlights lit as DRLs, or both. I don't use the switches to turn them on as they are on whenever the engine is running.

 

Thanks, but I like having them as bright as they are now all the time. Like I said, at night, they match the 6000K HID kit I have installed.

 

Hey Dr.Edge,

Looks good! Just wondering, are your LEDs too bright at night? I've been flashed a couple times by oncoming cars and was interested in milosm's idea about being able to dim them at night. I had my wife drive behind me and they're not blinding, I think it's just when they hit at the perfect angle that it's bothering oncoming traffic. I thought that Kc300c had posted somewhere that he had tapped his yellow wire into the head light assembly and that dimmed his LEDs at night. The only wiring diagrams I saw for the Phillips led me to believe that if they were wired unto the headlights that the LEDs would turn off automatically when the lights kicked on (not really what I want) My control box is still working fine, so I guess that's what's boosting the voltage enough to keep them bright but I only need them super bright during the day to use as DRLs, at night I'm fine with letting the HIDs do their thing. It's to the point where I've thought of tinting the lenses or installing a switch to just kick them off at night

 

Milosm,

Not really an electrical expert by any means...I know my way around a voltmeter and how to secure a strong splice, but that's about it, Is the rewiring fom parallel to series something that recognizes when the headlights are on and then lowers the input/output (?) power? I looked at your post and you said that you had a simple sketch on how to do that. Can you post that sketch?

 

I love this mod. Super glad I did it and it definitely increases safety during the day, I just don't want it to detract from that safety at night.

[dr.edge]

Hey Dr.Edge,

Looks good! Just wondering, are your LEDs too bright at night? I've been flashed a couple times by oncoming cars and was interested in milosm's idea about being able to dim them at night. I had my wife drive behind me and they're not blinding, I think it's just when they hit at the perfect angle that it's bothering oncoming traffic. I thought that Kc300c had posted somewhere that he had tapped his yellow wire into the head light assembly and that dimmed his LEDs at night. The only wiring diagrams I saw for the Phillips led me to believe that if they were wired unto the headlights that the LEDs would turn off automatically when the lights kicked on (not really what I want) My control box is still working fine, so I guess that's what's boosting the voltage enough to keep them bright but I only need them super bright during the day to use as DRLs, at night I'm fine with letting the HIDs do their thing. It's to the point where I've thought of tinting the lenses or installing a switch to just kick them off at night

 

Milosm,

Not really an electrical expert by any means...I know my way around a voltmeter and how to secure a strong splice, but that's about it, Is the rewiring fom parallel to series something that recognizes when the headlights are on and then lowers the input/output (?) power? I looked at your post and you said that you had a simple sketch on how to do that. Can you post that sketch?

 

I love this mod. Super glad I did it and it definitely increases safety during the day, I just don't want it to detract from that safety at night.

 

No problem with the LED bars being too bright at night. They're crisp and bright but certainly not enough to cause a problem with oncoming drivers. With the diffuser bar still in pace, the light is spread out quite a bit so I wouldn't worry about dimming them at night.

 

What I mostly like about them at night is that they match the color temperature of my HIDs (6000K). If I have just the stock LED bar lit, they almost look a sickly yellow-green color compared to my headlights.

[Cellbine]

Looks really great KC! I really like how big the individual LEDs look.

[Cellbine]

Thanks cellbine. Let me know if you would be interested in a set of them.

 

 

:happy feet: Excellent, I sent you a PM.

[TheCajun]

Hi, I have a 2012 Edge SE with plastic inserts where the vertical lights go. Is the SE wired for those lights? I think they look really cool. Any way I can install some.