ddb maine Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 I'm new, so hello all. Ive been reading around a lot and have found that the shot bearings are a fairly common problem. So there is 64k miles on my wifes car and I have two new hub/bearing asseblies and abs sensors. Now I have been working on cars my whole life. I have never replaced a motor, but I have done all my own work on my past vehicles. I have access to a full shop with lift and pulled the wheels and brakes to see what I was getting into. It appears with the AWD I need to remove the trailing arm from the rear end to be able to pull the axle out so I can get to the torx bolts holding on the hub. Am I correct or am I missing something? Everything is easily accessible and it all seems straight forward I just want to make sure in pulling the axle back through theres not going to be something spring loaded I wont be able to get back on. I appreciate all the prior posts on the subject I just havn't found a write up anywhere. I would be willing to take photos and notes to compile into a writeup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
claas900 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I think I'm going to be in the same boat, so I'd like to know this as well. But to be honest I havent even looked at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddb maine Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Either way I post up some pictures and a write up. My only concern is getting the shocks re attached, and keeping the springs attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddb maine Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 found a write up for removing front bearings, knuckles have to come off. So for rear with AWD I'm assuming the same. Passenger side saturday, Drivers sunday. photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddb maine Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Alright, replaced both rear bearings and I'm back to a quiet ride again. My phone was on its last leg of battery so I didnt get pictures. Here is the scoop; First off you need a shop to do this in, theres a variety of tools I used. A lift and a jack to lift the arms to reconnect etc. Anyways, The trailing arms have to come off. First loosen up the Ebrake adjustment Leave the adjustment nut on, 2-3 threads left. Its under the drivers seat area, chase the ebrake line. Ok, wheels, calipers, discs, axel nuts, e brake cable, and ABS sensor, remove and disconnect them, I put a zip tie through the caliper and hung it off the bracket in the upper left of the wheel well just outside the spring. With the car lifted by the frame so the suspension is at full extension, loosen, NOT REMOVE, the connections on the trailing arm for, Shock, spring arm (dont know what its called, main suspension part with the spring), a smaller control type arm, I believe it is used to control wheel camber (this one you will want to take good note of the oblong washer and where it is bolted. If it goes back in the wrong place your alignment will be all messed up. And loosen the upper control arm on top. Put a jack under the trailing arm where the bumpout is for the spring arm, lift the suspension do not lift the car off the lift but the higher the better, the upper control arm is in continuous tension with the trailing arm and wants to spring up as soon as you unbolt it from the trailing arm, With that removed, drop the jack back down, lift the suspension an inch or so to relieve pressure on the shock connection. remove that bolt. (also As I was doing this I was applying never seez and putting the nuts back on so I wouldnt get them confused) sway bar link forward of the axel on the trailing arm, bolt requires an allen wrench in the center to hold the bolt and slip a box wrench over to remove. Now with that bolt out the ebrake cable is free, you can tuck that out of the way. There are 5 bolts holding the front of the trailing arm onto the frame just forward of the wheel well remove them. two of them are longer than the other three, two long bolts go closer to the center of the car, shorter bolts are front center, and the two outer bolts. If you tucked the ebrake cable out of the way, then its out of the way! So lower the jack all the way, slowly. remove the last two connections, spring arm and smaller control arm. its not going to drop off, you will have to wiggle it off. tapping the axel back through the bearing and some yanking and twisting and maneuver it out. four t-60 bolts on the back side. remove them. My hub units were corroded on pretty good, one whack with a hammer and trailing arm was off. took the hub unit with the ebrake assembly, ebrake side down, and I put blocks under the ebrake pads and put the four bolts back in halfway to allow me to use a hammer to hit the bolts and separate the hub unit from the rest of unit. you will notice it moving slowly, go in a circular motion one hit per bolt otherwise it wont come out, has to be even all the way around. Before you start putting it back together remove the "control arm" , that small arm that connects on the lower side of the trailing arm forward of the spring arm, from the frame. as I said before Pay attention to where it is, Mine hadn't been moved so it was obvious where the bushing was. remove the nut, and tap the bolt back through, dont unscrew the bolt. Now its all apart. Never seez everything upon reinstallation. When you reinstall the trailing arm you do it like this. (first one took me 4 hours break down and reassembly, second took 1.5 hours.) feed the axel into the bearing (NEVERSEEZ! everything!@) Align the spring arm connection first, pain in the neck but patience is a virtue. slide the bolt through, and finger snug onto the nut. Next get the jack, with a rubber or wooden block lift the trailing arm from the wheel studs, 3"-5" this will allow easier allignment of the front of the trailing arm, the part with the 5 bolts forward of the wheel well. you might need to pull it a but to get it to line up. Tighten them up. Let the jack back down and raise the trailing arm back up and align and put the shock back on, then keep going up so you can reattach the upper control arm. I raised the trailing arm until the upper arm was just about touching the top of the trailing arm, align that and bolt it up, you might need a screw driver or something to push the trailing arm out or in. Let the jack down to allow you to reconnect the sway bar link with the ebrake cable clip. Then take the smaller control arm you completely removed and fish it up and back into place. It goes from the lower connection point on the trailing arm OVER the sway bar and into its connection point on the frame. I found it best to align the bottom and slide the bolt through, then align the top and slide the bolt through, THEN tighten up the bottom. then tighten the top, Again make sure the oblong washers and bushing are where they should be. Tighten the nut not the bolt, tightening the bolt will move the bushing forward and back. reconnect the abs sensor, ebrake cable with two bolts, I dont believe Ive forgotten anything on the reassembly, reassemble the brakes, axel nuts, and you are ready to go. Retighten the ebrake cable underneath and hell, while your at it rotate the tires. The pattern for reassembly seemed to be far more important. That is the only way It would reassemble. taking it off didnt seem to matter. any questions shoot me an email. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
claas900 Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Thanks. Where did you get your bearing/hubs from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddb maine Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 napa.They are SKF. The other company, the name is escaping me, they are currently changing there hub units, so they are not manufacturing, I tried getting them through rock auto, and couldnt. they were 149.00 each somthing like that. with a jar of never seez and a t60 1/2" drive it came in around 300.00. whole lot cheaper than paying a shop. Plus it can easily be done in half a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veterkins Posted November 2, 2013 Report Share Posted November 2, 2013 Having the same problem. Have 87,000 miles on our 2007 Ford Edge SEL. No more warranty and worried about the cost of the repair? I think hubs and son could do this; looking for pictures of the repair process. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) Maybe someone can post the workshop manual's procedure for replacement. Here is a relevant TSB 12-08-10 for the rear wheel hub: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3563/tsb12-08-10.pdf HOWL OR GROWL NOISE FROM REAR WHEEL AND BEARING ASSEMBLY Original TSB for this problem was 09-26-5. EDIT: Latest TSB update is 14-0098 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18331-howl-or-growl-type-noise-from-rear-wheel-area/ Edited June 7, 2018 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veterkins Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Ford dealership just called me about mine. Said it was the right rear bearing and hub that need replaced. Said it would be 2.5 hour job at $450. I mentioned the TSB 12-8-10 saying it said 1.5 hours for one and 2.9 for two. He didn't seem particularly thrilled that I had this information; but is going to recheck the time to fix. Said his mechanic used the Ford authorized website for the repair costs. I told him I was also using the same information. Sheesh. We'll see what he comes back with! I also asked why this is such a huge problem with the Ford Edges' and why, if there were so many people reporting this issue, had Ford not done a recall for this? I'm still waiting for a return call. Don't know whether to pick the car up or let them fix it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Because recalls are only for safety related conditions and this problem only seems to affect some vehicles. Our 08 hasn't had this problem yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicki1985 Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 I replaced my using a Torx 60 bit 3" long ground round from 1/2 back from tip about an inch and a half in order to miss hitting the ABS ring on the AWD CV Joint. 1 1/4 Socket to remove Hub nut (2) Retourque to 213 and 132 respectively (something like that....the hub should come with instructions). Leave the disc brakes on the vehicle and have someone apply the brakes while breaking the nut loose. A 3 jaw puller works just fine to detach hub from splined CV shaft. Not a big deal....I did this in my driveway. You don't have to remove any other part of the suspension...nothing. When you go to torque the new hub do not have the vehicle sitting on the ground. Buy the T60 through Snap On Blue Tip BLPTL1260 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deledge Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Seems like this bearings just stink. Ford did the front passenger wheel bearing at 25k miles. I just did this in my garage. Basically the same process as Vickie1985 describes. I did remove the lower shock bolt for extra room. http://www.fme-cat.com/HubWheelTorqueTableWindow.aspx?a=3640&q=AWD.....this is a great place to verify the torque settings. http://brianearly.blogspot.com/2012/11/jackass-award-ford-edgelincoln-mkx-rear.html.......and this will show what a non-user friendly this project is. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-pc-12-in-drive-impact-star-bit-socket-set-67896.html........this is the Torx set I bought and I grinded the T60 as Vicki1985 described. This is an absolute necessity. Used the Timken hub off of Amazon for $97.00. FYI - I have 50k miles on the vehicle and the Ford dealer could not hear the noise. Tired of begging for service, I just did this myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deledge Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Well, I knew this happen. I got 3 more years (80k miles total on the odometer) out of the passenger side rear wheel bearing. Ordered another Timken hub (HA590183) from Amazon and the price actually went down! Time review the videos to remind me how to go about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Hope you do not have to breathe fire or use Thor's hammer to get the old one off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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