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2011 Ford Edge Limited


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Hi,

 

I am in the market to buy a 2011 Edge with Rapid spec 301A. I have been lurking here got a lot of great info. Now here is where I am. I thank anyone in advance for their answers and help.

 

I was giving a soft sell, and a price I really did not care for, so I walked out.

 

I was reading a thread here, regarding the friends and family pricing, Someone said ford HAS to provide you with the factory Invoice, Is this true for everyone? (I am NOT a friend and family discount)

 

I been reading about factory invoices and a Options invoice price, So does this mean when I ask to see the options invoice price, that will include the upgrade already and I DO not have to pay the extra for the rapid spec 301A?

 

Will it be a stretch to ask for Dealer Invoice pricing, No dealer fees and I keep all rebates and incentives?

 

I do know I have to pay the FDAF charges, Fuel surcharge, taxes tag and title. Or any fees not listed on invoice

 

I know I do not have to pay for vehicle prep fees, Floor prep fees (My understand dealer get this back after car is sold).

 

Edmunds.com has this car for an invoice price for 36,297.00?

 

 

Is it true you can ONLY get 1 rebate? Right now I am only at 1k rebate, But I also a student

 

What about dealer hold back, Factory to dealer incentives? How hard should I push for not paying it?

 

My husband told me to ALWAYS get a firm price Then allow them to deduct rebates, Is this true?

 

And last, I am paying cash for this car, Like a fool I told them this already, I am reading this was not a good idea? But I did make it clear if I was not happy I would go somewhere else? His response to me was if I find a better deal he would match.

 

I know it was a lot, But I thought if I put it all in one thread, I will get enough answers.

Thank you guys, Pleas feel free to add any info, and correct any info i have here.

 

I wanted to add, My husband passed away a few months ago, and dealer tried the pretty girl stuff on me, Should I bring someone along when I go back?

Edited by looking4aedge
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Can't remember exactly what I paid but it was invoice minus all rebates and I know that there was more than one. It was around President's Day and I got auto show discount as well as Red Carpet lease return rebate and the regular rebate at that time. All total was $3000 at that time so I guess my answer is yes you can get all rebates that you are eligible for. Good luck.

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Just a tip, ask the dealer to see the invoice on a new Edge. They have to show it. Work your deal from there. Heck lots of people may not realize it but if you were to look for a used vehicle, and you ask the dealer to see the invoice for what they have in a used vehicle, they have to show it to you on those too. You can be eligible for multiple rebates and have them tacked on for a new purchase. Work your deal for the amount you want to spend. Don't go into it offering info on trade-ins. Don't discuss financing. Just get the deal on a cash price for the car worked out first. If they keep pressing for that infor or what you want your payment to be, get them back tot he cash price offering and stay there till you get your answer. Be prepared to get up and walk out. There is always another deal right around the corner. If they sense for one second you have your heart set on anything, they will work their magic and the new car bug might not work to your advantage.

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Oh and the dealers are going to make their money on the front or the back of the deal. They will make it by trade ins, added features to a model that may need a few things you like, mats, tint, etc., using their financing is another way to make points for point on the deal. I say check with another financing source and see what you qualify for on financing before letting them juggle you around with theirs at the dealer. Every contact you have is basically a salesperson at the dealer, the first one who works it, the manager that comes next, the finance guy who works your numbers to see if you want to incude add ons and heck even some of the so called office personnel.... all salesmen.

 

Get the invoice price, find out what rebates are available start working from that point. Don't let them talk to you about your personal life. Seriously, you are not trying to be friends, you are trying to make a deal. I have no trouble telling them I plan to pay cash or use another finance source. Your husband was right. Get a firm cash price. Stick with it. Make your offer and do not say another word until they come back with their counter. They will try to tell you they can't sell it for that, they are already giving you all the rebates and discounts, Your's getting a screaming deal at whatever below invoice and blah blah blah. Make another offer and maybe only go up $100. then be quiet and wait. IF they can't make soemthing move towards a descent cash price, get your keys and your purse and start heading for the door fully prepared to walk out and do more research. They more htan likely have your contact information. Wait a couple days and see if they intend to make the deal for the price you are willing to pay. It may help to have someone go with you but you do the talking. They can just make sure the salesman does start talking to you about personal issues. Your personal life is none of their business and you can get compliments from people you trust, you don't need theirs while trying to make a car deal.

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Look up the invoice price on kbb.com or edmunds.com and add $500 to cover the advertising fee (FDAF). This will get you very close to the true dealer invoice. True dealer invoice plus $100 doc fee minus rebates would be a very good price.

 

 

I did that over the weekend and emailed two dealers with Limiteds I like. I am furious right now as I write this. One won't give anything off sticker and the other tells me that my figures are way off because I did not include a bunch of stuff including-get this-a tank of gas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I went to a dealer Saturday and no one would even talk to me. I made eye contact with a sales person walking by and she looked away and kept going. I am already over buying a new one. The new ones come out in weeks and no one wants to deal on the 2011's???

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One won't give anything off sticker and the other tells me that my figures are way off because I did not include a bunch of stuff including-get this-a tank of gas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

To be fair, there is a fuel charge on the dealer invoice but it's only 2 gallons, not an entire tank.

 

I am lucky that I have a great salesman who is totally honest and transparent.

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Here is a snippet of one:

 

We have all of our Best Prices listed within our link above that includes all

fees from the Manufacturer. Consumer Reports does not track this information.

There is a fuel charge and a National Advertisment Fee from the Manufacturer to

the Dealer and the price will be off anywhere from $200-$600 on Consumer's end.

 

 

And the other with a full tank of gas and won't deal:

 

1) there was a price increase at the beginning of July and several others since the beginning of the model production last summer that your source was not aware of at time of publication, 2) printed and online sources do not know the cost of gas for a full tank provided at delivery that the factory charges on the invoice. That amount is never published by the factory as it is ever changing, but is on our invoice and is a cost charged to the car, and 3) also on the invoice is the regional advertising assessment for local dealer association. The pays for the local ad for Ford on TV, radio and in the newspapers in the region. Since this varies per car line and per for each dealer association around the country it to cannot be published and is a charged cost to the car on every invoice.

 

 

I can't tell you how many times I have bought a car and had to go fill the tank.

 

Someone please explain to me what ANY of this has to do with the sticker price? It is much higher than their invoice. The adjustments that Consumer reports, Edmunds etc tell you to make are to the sticker, not the dealer invoice.

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Thanks everyone,

 

Well I went to one dealer, they were selling the car a little over 34k, which is 2k over invoice. I am thinking about going with them, ONLY because with the rebates I might be below invoice, So I am hoping we can find a happy middle.

I am so happy I can get more that one rebate, One dealer swore up and down I could only get one.

 

He claims he can meet and beat any deal I get at another dealer? Which will have be getting the car very low.

 

So I will see what happens this weekend.

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Here is a snippet of one:

 

We have all of our Best Prices listed within our link above that includes all

fees from the Manufacturer. Consumer Reports does not track this information.

There is a fuel charge and a National Advertisment Fee from the Manufacturer to

the Dealer and the price will be off anywhere from $200-$600 on Consumer's end.

 

 

And the other with a full tank of gas and won't deal:

 

1) there was a price increase at the beginning of July and several others since the beginning of the model production last summer that your source was not aware of at time of publication, 2) printed and online sources do not know the cost of gas for a full tank provided at delivery that the factory charges on the invoice. That amount is never published by the factory as it is ever changing, but is on our invoice and is a cost charged to the car, and 3) also on the invoice is the regional advertising assessment for local dealer association. The pays for the local ad for Ford on TV, radio and in the newspapers in the region. Since this varies per car line and per for each dealer association around the country it to cannot be published and is a charged cost to the car on every invoice.

 

 

I can't tell you how many times I have bought a car and had to go fill the tank.

 

Someone please explain to me what ANY of this has to do with the sticker price? It is much higher than their invoice. The adjustments that Consumer reports, Edmunds etc tell you to make are to the sticker, not the dealer invoice.

 

I think they're referencing dealer invoice prices and people who look up the invoice prices on the web. The only part out of line is where they say they have to pay for a full tank of gas. I just pulled a sample dealer invoice from the Ford Partner website and they charge the dealer a whopping $15 for 5 gallons of gas. Not even worth mentioning. On this example the FDAF is $465.

Invoice.jpg

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Thanks everyone,

 

Well I went to one dealer, they were selling the car a little over 34k, which is 2k over invoice. I am thinking about going with them, ONLY because with the rebates I might be below invoice, So I am hoping we can find a happy middle.

I am so happy I can get more that one rebate, One dealer swore up and down I could only get one.

 

He claims he can meet and beat any deal I get at another dealer? Which will have be getting the car very low.

 

So I will see what happens this weekend.

 

What exactly are you looking for (model/color/trim)? $2K over invoice is not a great price unless the vehicle you want is in very short supply. You should be able to get $500 over invoice plus rebates with no problem.

 

Try this: call other dealers and ask for the sales manager. Tell him/her what you want and ask how much over invoice they want for it. If they won't tell you hang up. Any good dealer will tell you straight up.

 

Don't include rebates - you get those everywhere and they come from Ford not the dealer.

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What exactly are you looking for (model/color/trim)? $2K over invoice is not a great price unless the vehicle you want is in very short supply. You should be able to get $500 over invoice plus rebates with no problem.

 

Try this: call other dealers and ask for the sales manager. Tell him/her what you want and ask how much over invoice they want for it. If they won't tell you hang up. Any good dealer will tell you straight up.

 

Don't include rebates - you get those everywhere and they come from Ford not the dealer.

[/quote

 

 

 

Exactly. However, the one dealer only gave 1200 off sticker not including the rebate, which is nothing in my opinion. I used a consumer reports book to calculate approximate invoice. It is the end of the model year, 2012's are on their way soon so I figured I could get a good deal. I got a great deal on my 2008 SEL. But it was the 7th dealer I went to that would do that, so it is never easy. I figure if I keep at it something will come of it. What I want may be more than I want to spend anyway. Wasn't until last week when I started looking that I realized how much the packages have changed. For example, I have the auto liftgate and love it. The way Ford packages it now I have to buy a 41-43k Limited to get it. And I would rather not have the roof, but everything I am finding has one and not the drivers entry package. So I found a few that were equipped well enough, nice stereo, leather, MFT, 20's. Guess I can live without the auto lift gate. I have the 18's on mine and HATE the tires. I have the crummy stereo too. So to buy a new one with 18's and the same tires makes no sense. Nor does it make sense to buy new tires and a new stereo system for mine that goes out of warranty in Feb and will then start costing money when it has problems. My 2008 is pretty bare bones so a Limited of any kind is a step up. Has to be AWD.

 

I did not respond to either dealer, both emails said they would call so I thought I would see if they would. Rebate is over anyway. However, the one I emailed on has been on their lot since May, I have been watching it so I may go back in and fight. I know these clowns like to see how much they can take you for and email is impersonal enough that it is easy for them.

 

The date at the bottom of the sticker by the bar code, is that the build date or ship date or some other date?

 

 

Thanks for listening.

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What exactly are you looking for (model/color/trim)? $2K over invoice is not a great price unless the vehicle you want is in very short supply. You should be able to get $500 over invoice plus rebates with no problem.

 

Try this: call other dealers and ask for the sales manager. Tell him/her what you want and ask how much over invoice they want for it. If they won't tell you hang up. Any good dealer will tell you straight up.

 

Don't include rebates - you get those everywhere and they come from Ford not the dealer.

 

I am looking at the limited with spec 301A, sliver.

 

I am going to call them today, and ask, One dealer is trying to include rebates, But I know better now. I was reading that I should start at 200 over invoice. and work my way up to five. and no higher. I have no issue waiting if I have to. As I stated I am spending cash for this car. Do I have any leverage paying cash?

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I am looking at the limited with spec 301A, sliver.

 

I am going to call them today, and ask, One dealer is trying to include rebates, But I know better now. I was reading that I should start at 200 over invoice. and work my way up to five. and no higher. I have no issue waiting if I have to. As I stated I am spending cash for this car. Do I have any leverage paying cash?

 

I'd start at $0 but up to $500 would be a decent deal provided the doc fee isn't too high (some are as high as $600 - be sure to ask up front.)

 

Actually the dealer can usually make more when you finance depending on the terms. The advantage to cash is it's a done deal - no approvals to worry about and less paperwork. But the dealer may actually make more off financing.

 

If you can't get the deal you want and you don't mind driving to Atlanta I can check with my dealer. I'm sure he can come close to your terms.

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I'd start at $0 but up to $500 would be a decent deal provided the doc fee isn't too high (some are as high as $600 - be sure to ask up front.)

 

Actually the dealer can usually make more when you finance depending on the terms. The advantage to cash is it's a done deal - no approvals to worry about and less paperwork. But the dealer may actually make more off financing.

 

If you can't get the deal you want and you don't mind driving to Atlanta I can check with my dealer. I'm sure he can come close to your terms.

 

I would love to go to Atlanta to see you and buy an Edge :) That is a long way away. :( I could have it trucked maybe?

 

 

For funsies, I want to email back on the silver one. If I say something like: You claim that my pricing is off, could you send me a copy of the dealer invoice so I am able to see all of the charges and fees? What is the doc fee on this vehicle? I expect to be able to purchase a 2011 Edge for close to dealer invoice. I know that this vehicle has been on your lot for awhile and 2012 Edges will be arriving soon.

 

 

While I was writing this the dealer with the black one called. They do not have it yet, it is on order, identical to the silver one but the silver one is right near where I live. She invited me to come test drive an Edge. I told her I found an identical one and she said she would call back. ???

 

Anyway, what do you think?

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Ask them to show you the invoice. Period. No guess work needed. Confirm the invoice for hte VIN to the VIN on the unit you are looking at buying. Walk into the location where they have one of the Edge models you like. Once you see the invoice, offer them $100 over. Then stop. Wait for their next offer. These dealers are all going to come back with your prices are off, where did you get your figures, I can't sell to you below invoice. I had one dealer try to tell me they had heftier rebates the weekend before abd they will keep lowering the rebates until all 2011 models are gone. They are not ordering 2012's until they sell all the 11's. But in the same breathe, that dealer will match any price I get for a comparible product from another dealer. Really. 1200 over invoice is not doing you any favors. Dont mention trades, dont mention rebates until you get a firm price settled on. Don't let them talk you into add-ons or inflated financing. Get quotes on that too and be prepared to walk out and find another deal. If they are only offering 1200 over invoice tell them you'd be willing to buy it for $200 over invoice right now. If not you have an apointment with antoher dealer and you need to be on your way. Be polite and thank them for their time when you get up to leave. If they let you walk out the door, then they apparently don't need the business that bad. They are trained not to let you walk out the door.

 

If you get your price settled on then start working out the rebates. Bottom line is they have to make money and trust me they will. They will get their hold back and other incentives, but you're the one buying it, so get it for a price that suits you or find it some place else.

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Okay, y'all are getting too complicated. Just go in, and ask for the sales manager. Tell him which one you want and that you'll buy right then if he does a $300 gross, and you keep incentives and holdback. A $300 profit is fair for them to cover feeding their families, keeping the power on, etc. If it's not a sport, they'll usually say yes immediately and you're done. Also, don't pay for "paint protection," window etching, etc. All gimmicks and worthless. If they say that you have to, remind them that you don't by heading for the door.

 

Okay, I guess I'm not a negotiating kind of guy, but it works now, just like it did when I sold cars.

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I'd start at $0 but up to $500 would be a decent deal provided the doc fee isn't too high (some are as high as $600 - be sure to ask up front.)

 

Actually the dealer can usually make more when you finance depending on the terms. The advantage to cash is it's a done deal - no approvals to worry about and less paperwork. But the dealer may actually make more off financing.

 

If you can't get the deal you want and you don't mind driving to Atlanta I can check with my dealer. I'm sure he can come close to your terms.

 

If I do not get what I want in Savannah, I am MORE and willing to drive to Atlanta, Only a four hour drive.

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I contacted the dealership that sold me my 2008. Offered me $600.00 over invoice and it looks right. The other dealer emailed me an 'invoice' that is a total lie. Their price on a car with $1000.00 higher sticker is less than the other dealer INCLUDING the rebates. Unfortunately the dealership that I bought my last one at does not have one with 20's. So close yet so far . . .

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