Subwoofer project

[rogersmj]

Use fuse #35.

 

Of course...thanks. :blush: I'm embarrassed I didn't think of that, considering I just hardwired a Garmin GPS into fuse 35 a few weeks back. In the case of the RE-Q5 I was trying to find something that only turned on when the stereo was on, but I guess it doesn't really matter if it's that or when the car is started.

[Linty]

Sorry Akirby, I was just defending myself, wont happen again. Here are some pics Linty, I Still have some finish work to do with neatening the wires and carpeting the wood piece i cut out but so far so good.

 

 

Sammy - looks awesome! - using a piece of wood to mount the electronics is a good idea.

 

Sorry I missed one of your earlier questions about the re-Q turn on connection - I used the high level smart engage method so no additional turn on wire is needed - the re-Q senses DC voltage on the input lines when the head unit is turned on and turns the re-Q processor on - be sure to use the white and white/red left front input wires if you choose this method (and don't worry about DC on the speaker leads, this voltage is floating and not referenced to ground)

 

 

 

 

thanks for the pix - well done

Linty

Edited August 16, 2011 by Linty

[rogersmj]

^ Ah, that explains why DC mode wasn't working for me. I used the left rear as my input to the RE-Q5. Oh well, I'll run the remote wire this week.

[Sammyaxe]

Sammy - looks awesome! - using a piece of wood to mount the electronics is a good idea.

 

Sorry I missed one of your earlier questions about the re-Q turn on connection - I used the high level smart engage method so no additional turn on wire is needed - the re-Q senses DC voltage on the input lines when the head unit is turned on and turns the re-Q processor on - be sure to use the white and white/red left front input wires if you choose this method (and don't worry about DC on the speaker leads, this voltage is floating and not referenced to ground)

 

 

 

 

thanks for the pix - well done

Linty

 

Naaa man I have the entire system going through the REQ. I have an amp on the four polks in the doors as well as the sub so i have all the speakers wired into the unit. Turned out awesome. Although the Smart Engage is set on ac turn on and sensitivity is at about 3/4 and it goes on and off properly. Dont forget about the 1 5second delay.

[TylerDurden]

Quick question: for those of you that ran the power wire near the speaker wires, are you getting any engine/alternator whinning?

Thanks in advance

[rogersmj]

^ No, I have no alternator whining.

 

Now that I've lived with this project for a few weeks, I have a couple questions for Linty or anyone else who might be able to answer.

 

1. I'm not getting full bass range up in the front seats. In the back, it sounds fine. Quite powerful. But in the front seat, I'm missing a good portion of the bass range. I get *most* of the "punch" of, for example, a bass drum, but a lot of actual bass notes, like from bass guitars, are lost. I don't just want to turn up bass volume because any higher and the rear seat passengers are completely overwhelmed with bass. So I'm wondering...is this indicative of something else? Is the sub box I built not big enough, or not sealed properly? Any other ideas?

 

2. Since adding the sub (and line level processor, and amp), I get a "pop" from the sound system whenever the MFT screens cycle on and off when the car is not turned on. For example...open the door, get in the car. The main screen goes white (and I think maybe displays the Ford logo, I can't remember). Now if you *don't* start the car and just wait a few moments, the screen will shut off. When this happens, there's a "pop" over the speakers. Same thing happens if you open the doors from the inside after sitting in the car with it off for a few moments, and the screens turn on. Any thoughts?

 

Thank you for any help.

[PeteSawyer]

rogersmj,

 

I installed Polk MM571's in the front and rear doors without issue, dropped right in. I first put some Dynamat Extreme around the opening and tucked it inside around to the back side of the mounting area in order to seal the speakers mounting area better. They sound SOOOOO much better than the stock speakers.

 

Pete

[rogersmj]

PeteSawyer, I think you misunderstood me...I already upgraded the door speakers to Infiniti reference 6x9s. Not happy with how those sounded (weak low end), I installed the sub. Even with all that power being channeled back to the sub though, I still have very little low end up front, despite the new speakers.

 

I haven't done dynamat, but the dynamat wouldn't solve the problem I'm having with the sub, I don't think.