Edge Mid-Range TouchScreen Stereo Upgrade - top to bottom

[hunter306]

Hey Guys,

 

I figured I'd post up a thread as I get my new 2010 Edge SEL (without the premium audio, without navigation, without sync) upgraded to a newer TouchScreen stereo. I wanted to help make the next guys life a little easier too, so I'll try and get some good pictures of some things I was personally looking for while I was shopping.

 

First off, here's the parts list.

 

 

-Pioneer AVH-P3300BT Touch Screen Receiver -- 340.00

-RockFord Fosgate R1682 6x8" door speaker replacements (4 of them) - 102.00

-Metra Axxess ASWC Steering Interface - 39.00

-Pioneer CD-IU50V Ipod Integration cable - 35.00

-Scosche FD1432AB Dash Kit - 15.00

-Scosche FD23B - Non-Premium Audio Wiring Harness - 9.00

-Metra Chrysler Antenna Adapter - 9.00

-12v Standard Auto Relay - 4.00

 

Total Component Cost, Less Installation Labor: 553.00

 

Also to come, but not in this first build part.

-Backup Cam (to be included later in the project...)

 

 

So to get started, I wanted to get some really good pictures of the Ford Edge (2010 Non-Premium Audio, Satellite Radio) harnesses. I hope this will help someone see the connection points they have, and those they're going to have to go digging for:

 

Ford 24 Pin Stereo Connector:

 

 

 

Ford 16 Pin Can-Bus, Satellite, Aux Connector:

 

 

Ford 8 Pin 'Subwoofer' Harness (not used in my Stock System, but harness IS present behind the radio in a dummy holder - see first pic):

 

 

 

 

 

Stereo Chassis Ground Point (easily accessible from the stereo opening):

 

 

 

 

That's all for the moment, I hope this will be some good reference material. Next up, wiring and installation! Check out the next post for details.

Edited May 12, 2011 by hunter306

[hunter306]

Well here's part 2:

 

I spent the better part of yesterday evening putting together the harness for the Stereo/Relay/Steering Control. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost my ability to receive AM radio on the new stereo. Who knows what happened there, but testing everything, all I get is static on AM. The old stereo worked for that ? The relay is a standard 12v relay wired to show the 'parking brake' ground for the stereo after the AMP/Power Antenna turn on is activated. Apparently this allows you to retain all of the functionality, regardless of the cars moving situation.

 

EDIT - AM RADIO/FM RADIO RECEPTION.

 

Seems my omission of this wire on the 'Factory' side of the harness is the root of the problem. Will hook it to the PowerAntenna wire this afternoon.

 

I did remove all unnecessary wires from the wiring harnesses to keep things as clean as possible. For example, the Metra Axxess has 12 wires, the Ford implementation only uses 5 of those. The others were removed from the harness to prevent clutter.

 

Since the Edge Factory 24-pin Radio harness has no dimming capability, I just probed the lines that went to the Hazard/Traction Control switches as others have mentioned. The wire is purple and is in the middle of the 6 position harness on the 2010 model (it sits between 2 constant 12v hot lines).

Here are some pictures of the harness work:

 

 

 

 

Edited May 13, 2011 by hunter306

[Victor Wolansky]

I bet it will work better than Sync....

[LetsTryaFord]

I bet it will work better than Sync....

 

I'm sure it will...!!!

[hunter306]

I have to say, I'm really jealous of you guys with the newer Dash Console on the 2011 MY vehicles. Great looking displays from what I've seen in the pictures. It's too bad that the Sync and MSFT systems are causing such problems for you guys.

 

Unfortunately, I'm not sure you gain any real 'Sync' like functionality with this Stereo (not sure it has voice activation, but I haven't really read up on that obscurity). I mostly bought it as I was frustrated with having a new car with the EXACT same radio as my last vehicle. Wanted something a bit nicer for the Edge.

 

Can't wait to get some of the next-steps pictures this afternoon after I get it in the dash.

[hunter306]

Part 3:

 

This is the part where tapped the dimmer wire, attached the chassis ground, and got everything plugged back in. Unfortunately, I did this BEFORE I read about the AM/FM antenna issues, so I'll have to pull it back out to modify the wiring harness for that issue (See part 2 for details on that).

 

Additionally, I've got the Factory Subwoofer box coming from an ebay auction (65 bux!) and 4x Rockford Fosgate Prime R1682 door speakers coming.

On to the pictures!

 

First I ran the Bluetooth Microphone. I didn't want to run this to visor, so I tucked it in just the right side of the gauge cluster. So far, in my test the audio is pretty good from this location:

 

 

Wires running down from the steering column.

 

Then I tapped the 12v dimmer wire, which is really not a 'Dimmer' per-se on the Pioneer, but it does effectively reduce the screen brightness when the interior backlighting flips on.... Very nice for driving in the evening.

 

 

 

This is the harness behind the Hazard Lights/Traction Control Buttons. The purple wire is between 2 hot (12v constant) wires and is nearer the driver side of the vehicle.

 

 

Starting to button everything back up for the time-being (as I said, I'll be back in here to run reverse cam, preamp wires for the new sub, and also correct my AM antenna wire issue. (upcoming).

 

 

 

Here's what it looks like with the trim panels back in place!

 

I ended up removing 3mm all the way around the inside (inside the dash side) of the dash-kit's bezel so that the radio would be more flush with the front of the bezel. This effectively moved the radio forward to make it look a little nicer than the deeply recessed position of the un-modified dash kit.

 

 

Wide angle (notice how well the microphone blends in the gauge cluster, very happy!)

Edited May 14, 2011 by hunter306

[specialk4523]

Looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like it's stock!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited May 16, 2011 by akirby
Please stop quoting huge pictures!!!!

[hunter306]

Thanks!

 

Part 4: 6x8" Door Speaker Upgrade

 

As mentioned, the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1682 Speakers came in on Saturday afternoon. It took about 3 hours to do the complete swap from stock to the upgraded speakers. I tried to document the door disassembly process for those who decide to do this as well.

 

Crutchfield lists the R1682's as only fitting in the FRONT doors of the edge, but after reading that there is quite a bit of room in the rear doors, I took a chance and ordered all 4 for replacement. I'll go ahead and say right off the jump, the rears fit just fine... There are NO clearance issues at all with either rolling down the window, or putting the door panel plastic on. The tweeter has an easy 1/4"-1/2" of room of clearance.

 

On to the pictures:

 

Speakers as delivered.

 

Co-Axial 2-way speakers.

 

Filter for the tweeter.

Edited May 15, 2011 by hunter306

[hunter306]

Part 4 (Continued)

 

Door Disassembly Process:

 

 

Step 1: Pull the door control panel out, this is friction fit, so simply pulling up on the unit will pop it free. Then undo all of the electrical clips.

 

 

 

Step 2: Using a mar-free tool, pop the cap off of the upper door fastener behind the door latch handle.

 

 

Step 3: Pull the door latch outward (as if opening the door) and simply pull the plastic fascia outward -- This is again simply held in with friction clips.

 

 

Step 4: Remove the Screw in the Door Handle pocket with a appropriate socket.

 

 

Step 5: Remove 6x (six) phillips head screws from the door edge. The locations are noted in the picture.

 

 

Step 6: Remove the door panel, starting at the bottom there are two friction clips, pull the door away and these will pop free. As you do this, you fill find the panel stays partially attached by a small friction clip on the top corner (noted in the picture)-- this one requires a very firm pull, but will come free.

 

 

 

Step 7: Remove 4 screws from the speaker unit. Pull away from the door, being careful not to damage the speaker leads. The speaker has a thin rubber gasket which may cause it to stick, simply pulling will break this free.

 

 

Step 7 (Rear Door): Same as Step 7 above, but giving a view of the rear door's configuration.

Installing New Stereo Speakers in the Door:

 

This process will vary depending on whether you opt to solder on the new speakers, or if you get the OEM Lead adapters available through Metra. If you do the later, you'll simply clip the wires in place and replace the speaker, if you opt to solder, this process may be helpful for you.

 

 

Step 1: Reattach the new door speaker backward on the door, using 1 of the factory screws. This will hold the speaker in place while you tin the stereo leads and solder them onto the new speaker! (Note, this is much easier than trying to hold the speaker, soldering iron, solder, etc.)

 

 

Step 2: Slip on a length of heat shrink tubing, then wrap the stereo lead a solder it to the proper polarity speaker tab.

 

Reference for wire colors/Polarity of the speakers:

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

 

 

Step 3: Remove the temporary screw, flip the speaker around and reattach the speaker using the existing screw hardware.

 

 

Step 4: (alternate view for rear door) -- Same process, simply shown finished for the rear doors.

 

 

 

Hope this gives you a better understanding of doing the door speaker replacements!

[spongers]

Nice work so far Hunter!!

 

Will you be putting in an amp to run the door speakers? I have replaced my door speakers and am in the process of setting up the amp, but am running into trouble running new speaker cable to the speakers through the door "boot". And the only reason I want to do this is because I am going to be pumping 60 amps to the new Boston Acoustics door speakers I installed and do not think the stock wiring could handle it. Thoughts? Any one else done this already on a 2011? (Same as the 2006-2010 I am assuming)

[hunter306]

Hi Spongers, I'm not planning on running amplification to the door speakers. The RF's seem to respond well to the limited power of the Pioneer.

 

I wish I got a better picture of the door wiring boot and how it runs from the frame to the actual door panel. I can imagine that running the extra wires through this would be possible, as I see there is a plastic latch that lets you lock in, and unlock the wiring boot from the frame side of the car.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say you could unlock that boot, remove it and push your upgraded wiring through the boot to the inside of the door panel. The bigger challenge might be running it at the frame, but I haven't removed any of the pillar plastics to give a good observation of that process.

 

I agree, if you're running 60+ Amps, the stock wiring may not be adequate. I'm pretty certain it's 18ga wire.

Edited May 16, 2011 by hunter306

[spongers]

Hi Spongers, I'm not planning on running amplification to the door speakers. The RF's seem to respond well to the limited power of the Pioneer.

 

I wish I got a better picture of the door wiring boot and how it runs from the frame to the actual door panel. I can imagine that running the extra wires through this would be possible, as I see there is a plastic latch that lets you lock in, and unlock the wiring boot from the frame side of the car.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say you could unlock that boot, remove it and push your upgraded wiring through the boot to the inside of the door panel. The bigger challenge might be running it at the frame, but I haven't removed any of the pillar plastics to give a good observation of that process.

 

I agree, if you're running 60+ Amps, the stock wiring may not be adequate. I'm pretty certain it's 18ga wire.

Thanks Hunter. I didn't even think about the frame side, I kept trying to remove the door side of the boot. I will try the frame side this weekend and see where I get. I have had the plastics off a few times and if I could get it past the boot, I think everything else will be easy, I think!

 

Yeah, that wire would probably melt under the load, so I do not even want to try it. I could easily because I know where all the wiring is, but I am worried about starting a fire!!!

 

Your install is looking good!

[hunter306]

Thanks Hunter. I didn't even think about the frame side, I kept trying to remove the door side of the boot. I will try the frame side this weekend and see where I get. I have had the plastics off a few times and if I could get it past the boot, I think everything else will be easy, I think!

 

Yeah, that wire would probably melt under the load, so I do not even want to try it. I could easily because I know where all the wiring is, but I am worried about starting a fire!!!

 

Your install is looking good!

 

Spongers, I did some additional research, I think this is the boat we're going to be in for running 'new' wires to the doors.

 

If you look, it appears Ford is doing a molex style connector to facilitate fast attach/detach during assembly and replacement. This thread is regarding the F150, but the door connectors in my Edge look the SAME.

 

http://carstereotalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=124&t=451

[spongers]

Spongers, I did some additional research, I think this is the boat we're going to be in for running 'new' wires to the doors.

 

If you look, it appears Ford is doing a molex style connector to facilitate fast attach/detach during assembly and replacement. This thread is regarding the F150, but the door connectors in my Edge look the SAME.

 

http://carstereotalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=124&t=451

 

Nice find hunter! That sucks though!! That is a lot more work than I want to do! Haha! I will be taking a look tonight after work to see if this matches our Edge's or not. At least that guy provided high quality pics so we can just copy if in fact that is what needs to be done.

[spongers]

Spongers, I did some additional research, I think this is the boat we're going to be in for running 'new' wires to the doors.

 

If you look, it appears Ford is doing a molex style connector to facilitate fast attach/detach during assembly and replacement. This thread is regarding the F150, but the door connectors in my Edge look the SAME.

 

http://carstereotalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=124&t=451

 

Here is another picture of this on a ford fusion....routes the wires a different way which seems easier as long as your wiring would fit.

 

Link would help!

http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5294

Edited May 16, 2011 by spongers

[hunter306]

Quick Update on this!:

 

Popped open the rear quarter (kick) panel in the cargo compartment, was relieved to find the stock sub wiring harness was intact. Got a few pictures of the layout of the stock subwoofer harness for reference.

 

 

 

Also, the stock subwoofer box I bought has arrived-- clearly someone attempted to do their own custom install with an 8" subwoofer in it. Otherwise, it's in good condition. No amplifier included at the 50 dollar price, but the stock paper-cone sub was included. Decided that the plastic enclosure was the only thing I'll end up using, so out came the stock speaker and in will go a Polk Audio DB 840 DVC. Powering it with Rockford Fosgates new mini subwoofer amp (150watts at 2ohms, which is what I'll be running).

 

Sub diagram (posted here by someone else, as reference of the box I'll be recycling):

 

[Danbabin]

Great write up so far Hunter306! I just picked up a 2008 FOer Edge SEL AWD, no nav, no sub. I have ordered a Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT, which should provide me with everything sync could, and more! Loving the pics, this is going to make my install soo much easier!!

 

Great forum here. So much great information.

 

Anyone know where I could find a JL stealthbox for the Edge? I tried Crutchfield, but since I am in Canada, they won't ship it to me! They have a canadian Cruitchfield, but they won't get it for me either! I'd prefer a used one anyways...

 

Keep the pics coming Hunter306, I appreciate your write up.

 

Thanks!

 

Dan

[wkevingossett]

hunter, how do you like the Metra Axxess? Does it respond well? I used the PAC SWIPS in my install a while back, and it's functionality is certainly lacking. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Was it easy to program?

[nextime]

Seriously awesome job, however I wish you had a 2011 that you did this job to since I would like to do the same on my 2011.

[hunter306]

Well, sorry I've been absent for a few weeks on this. I did the Reverse Camera installation this weekend and I'm really happy with the results... Will try to post up my steps this evening (took over 30 pictures doing it!)

 

To answer some questions about this install:

 

Danbabin-- Thanks for the compliments, I'm no pro on Canadian shipping so I'll let someone else chime in on a potential source for your stealthbox.

wkevingossett-- The Metra Axxess is in my opinion, Flawless. I didn't have to do ANY manual programming. Wired it up, it autodetected my edge and the stereo and it works. It also works FAST, it doesn't have any delay when you hit the steering controls-- operates just like it did with the stock stereo.

 

nextime-- If it's any consolation, I replaced the rear hatch badge with a 2011 Logo =) -- I really liked the new edge logo so I swapped my old one out. Hopefully you'll find some good resources here on the forums for your install!

[MattRiebeling]

This post is great, it will be helpful to me this weekend.

 

I just ordered similar parts for my 2010 SEL, but doing the Clarion NX501, as I wanted Nav too, but no SUB.

 

How did the backup camera install workout?

If you have photos it would be great to see them.

[Sean Forsberg]

I recently had a Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS installed in my 2009 Edge using the PAC MS-FRD1 harness and Chrysler Antenna. Following this my AM is almost complete static and FM is a bit spotty. I'm trying to figure out what would cause this and how to correct it.

 

Unfortunately the install guy seems kind of bothered that I expect everything to work as it's supposed to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[wannabang]

Looks fantastic! Thanks for the info on taking the doors off... usually I go at it blind and end up breaking something. Sean and I both have that radio issue with out pioneers. Is your bluetooth mic still receiving your voice well? I ran mine up through the little piece on the side of the dash (driver's side, able to be popped out) and I think there''s a bit too much road noise right there. People complain about not being able to hear me. Sean, where'd you put your mic at?

[Eatinitup]

I recently had a Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS installed in my 2009 Edge using the PAC MS-FRD1 harness and Chrysler Antenna. Following this my AM is almost complete static and FM is a bit spotty. I'm trying to figure out what would cause this and how to correct it.

 

Unfortunately the install guy seems kind of bothered that I expect everything to work as it's supposed to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

What is the difference in the Pioneer AVH and AVIC models? I hear the Avic-Z130BT was a beast machine but they don't make it anymore. The Z140BH was replacing it but I hear it sucks to the Z130

[Eatinitup]

 

What is the difference in the Pioneer AVH and AVIC models? I hear the Avic-Z130BT was a beast machine but they don't make it anymore. The Z140BH was replacing it but I hear it sucks to the Z130

 

NVM, I couldn't get on the Pioneer website but was now able too. It seems that AVIC models are navigation and AVH models aren't. Seems the AVIC would be the better choice? Even though that x8500 looks sweet and seems to perform ok.