spongers Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 All, I am trying to replace the door speakers on my 2011 Ford Edge SEL and am having difficulties with the fronts. I remove the screws on the side and bottom edges, and the one behind the trim panel above the hand rail (which was tricky to find at first), but then the panel still won't come off because another screw is holding it in somewhere. I have narrowed it down to behind the other silver trim panel under the window buttons, or the window button panel itself. I obviously do not want to do anything to break my panel so I was wondering if anyone had any idea on how to remove it that I am missing. I have looked at the guides for the 2010 models, but the '11 is completely different so they are no help. Help please! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Anyone?? I know some people have replaced their speakers on their 2011, any help would be very much appreciated!!!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Nevermind....figured it out on my own. The window button panel has to come off on both doors first, and then the rest of the door can come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDubya Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) Spongers. Are you adding seperate tweeters or simply replacing the speakers. Are you replacing all 4 doors. I am considering replacing the speakers but cant decide if I want to add seperate tweeters, That will be more work for sure. Love to hear how it turns out? Edited March 21, 2011 by MrDubya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Spongers. Are you adding seperate tweeters or simply replacing the speakers. Are you replacing all 4 doors. I am considering replacing the speakers but cant decide if I want to add seperate tweeters, That will be more work for sure. Love to hear how it turns out? Dubya, I replaced all four door speakers with Boston Acoustics S85 speakers. I chose not to go with seperate tweeters for now because I couldn't figure out how to remove the A pillar enough to install them (The A pillar is installed behind the dash, and I didnt want to risk breaking it as I tried to remove it). So far, without an amp, subwoofer, or a sound processor (I purchased the MTX re-q5 so I could install a 4 channel amp to the door speakers, and a 2 channel amp for a sub) it sounds amazing! I cannot wait to install the MTX box, and hook up the four channel amp to see how it sounds then! After that I will be purchasing the JL Audio stealth subwoofer box and installing that (I already have an amp from a previous install). I installed the amps behind the spare tire, in front of the back seats. I made a mount out of flat metal from Lowes, and used the screw posts the plastic tubs secure to as the mounting points. All in all it turned out great. I will post pics once it is all done (as for now just the amps are there, no wiring yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotLap Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Spongers - sorry just read this - but there is generally a screw in the door handle bucket (behind the plactic bucket trim) and one under the door handle pull area (usually under the power window trim piece). These are the areas with the most stress when opening/closing the doors so they need to be reinforced with a screw. Would enjoy hearing how our speaker replacement went, what kind of speakers you used and what size the stock door speakers are (both front and back). Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hotlap - thanks for the info, even it was late! I figured it out eventually, but thanks anyway! The door speakers, both front and rear are 6"x8" in size. I installed Boston Acoustics S85's and they sound great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDubya Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Spongers, Can you explain how you got the silver trip piece off from the door grab handle and how you remove the panel that has the window switches in it. I tried to pry the them both out gently but it doesnt feel like they are going to snap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Spongers, Can you explain how you got the silver trip piece off from the door grab handle and how you remove the panel that has the window switches in it. I tried to pry the them both out gently but it doesnt feel like they are going to snap off. Dubya, the silver piece above the door handle came off for me pretty easily. It does require more force than you think, but it will come off. Pry from the top as that is where the clip is. As for the window button trim once you get it off you will see an indention on the back side (away from the grab handle on the door) so pry it up from that side. There are two metal clips that hold it in on the front and back, and the one in the back uses that indention to lift it up. It too is easier than you make it, but does require force. Pry with as much even pressure from side to side to get it off, don't create any pressure points and you wont break it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDubya Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 SPONGERS, Thanks for the info, I was concerned about breaking things ans without having the steps documented I was a bit afraid to be one of the first to start tearing things apart. The door panel came off very easily......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osiris326 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Do you happen to have pictures of this? I am currently trying to put speakers into all four doors. On the front doors I have gotten to the point of removing the top silver trim and the window button trim and have removed the 2 bolts and one screw, however I still can not get the door panel off. Am I still missing a screw or bolt, or do I just have to pull up on the panel really hard? Also I the rear door I am also not having any luck, I got the 3 outer screws off plus the one under the area that you would pull the door closed with. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Do you happen to have pictures of this? I am currently trying to put speakers into all four doors. On the front doors I have gotten to the point of removing the top silver trim and the window button trim and have removed the 2 bolts and one screw, however I still can not get the door panel off. Am I still missing a screw or bolt, or do I just have to pull up on the panel really hard? Also I the rear door I am also not having any luck, I got the 3 outer screws off plus the one under the area that you would pull the door closed with. Thanks for any help. Osiris, there are also screws around the edges of the front door and on the bottom. Did you remove those? I do not have pictures with me but will post them later. For the back, there is a bolt behind the grey trim piece like you found, and under the door handle itself behind a little plastic cover. As well as along the two side edges and the bottom, just like the front. Other than that it is just clips. I used plastic prying tools designed to remove auto panels that do not damage the door, or break the clips. Made it SOOO much easier. Got them from Crutchfield here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_126CR3NGL/Bojo-Trim-Panel-Tools.html?tp=990&nvpair=FFType|Tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osiris326 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Osiris, there are also screws around the edges of the front door and on the bottom. Did you remove those? I do not have pictures with me but will post them later. For the back, there is a bolt behind the grey trim piece like you found, and under the door handle itself behind a little plastic cover. As well as along the two side edges and the bottom, just like the front. Other than that it is just clips. I used plastic prying tools designed to remove auto panels that do not damage the door, or break the clips. Made it SOOO much easier. Got them from Crutchfield here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_126CR3NGL/Bojo-Trim-Panel-Tools.html?tp=990&nvpair=FFType|Tools Yes I got the screws around the edges. So I guess I just have to pry it away from the actual door then. Maybe I will try using my bicycle tire removers, they are similar. Yeah if you could post pictures that would be great, even just a picture with the panel completely together with just dots where the screws would suffice, as long as I know where to look before I start prying the panel away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Yes I got the screws around the edges. So I guess I just have to pry it away from the actual door then. Maybe I will try using my bicycle tire removers, they are similar. Yeah if you could post pictures that would be great, even just a picture with the panel completely together with just dots where the screws would suffice, as long as I know where to look before I start prying the panel away. I will see what I can put together for you...it is a little dosconcerting to be pulling that hard on an expensive door, but it does take quite a bit of pressure to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osiris326 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 (edited) I've continued to look around on the internet and I see that on the 2010 ford mustang there is one directly behind the door handle, and to get to it you need to pry away the plastic that is behind it. Below is the picture. Edited May 17, 2011 by osiris326 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter306 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 I just realized, this is like the F150. You're exactly right, remove that panel and there is a single bolt behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferneyhough Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Dubya, I replaced all four door speakers with Boston Acoustics S85 speakers. I chose not to go with seperate tweeters for now because I couldn't figure out how to remove the A pillar enough to install them (The A pillar is installed behind the dash, and I didnt want to risk breaking it as I tried to remove it). So far, without an amp, subwoofer, or a sound processor (I purchased the MTX re-q5 so I could install a 4 channel amp to the door speakers, and a 2 channel amp for a sub) it sounds amazing! I cannot wait to install the MTX box, and hook up the four channel amp to see how it sounds then! After that I will be purchasing the JL Audio stealth subwoofer box and installing that (I already have an amp from a previous install). I installed the amps behind the spare tire, in front of the back seats. I made a mount out of flat metal from Lowes, and used the screw posts the plastic tubs secure to as the mounting points. All in all it turned out great. I will post pics once it is all done (as for now just the amps are there, no wiring yet). Spongers I was just speaking to my car audio guy & he told me if I install the MTX re-q5 you will need a code from ford for the deck, he told me that without his code the install will not work. If you get this to work for you I would love to hear how you did it. I have a 2011 sel model & I am looking to up grade all of my factory speakers. Also does anybody know if the sel model come twith the sub woofer wireing harness behind the trim panel. Also does anybody have a pic of the back panel of the 2011 sel nav model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Spongers I was just speaking to my car audio guy & he told me if I install the MTX re-q5 you will need a code from ford for the deck, he told me that without his code the install will not work. If you get this to work for you I would love to hear how you did it. I have a 2011 sel model & I am looking to up grade all of my factory speakers. Also does anybody know if the sel model come twith the sub woofer wireing harness behind the trim panel. Also does anybody have a pic of the back panel of the 2011 sel nav model. ferney, I have never heard of that one. I am finishing the install this weekend (finally got the sub and amp mount done) so I will let you know what happens. I have installed at least 3 of these MTX boxes on mine and friend's vehicles and never had to do that, but you never know with this SYNC system. I hope that isnt the case! Did he happen to tell you where to get said code if I need it? I can post pics this weekend of the back of the nav screen as that is where I am going to tap into the speaker wire. For what its worth, the CD player is a separate unit, and that is where the wiring harness plugs into, and the screen is just an attachment to that. As far as I could tell my SEL without sub does not have the wiring harness for the sub, though there is a strange connector connected to what looks like a black plastic piece, though I do think that is a sensor as the wire color doesn't match up to what the subwoofer should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferneyhough Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 ferney, I have never heard of that one. I am finishing the install this weekend (finally got the sub and amp mount done) so I will let you know what happens. I have installed at least 3 of these MTX boxes on mine and friend's vehicles and never had to do that, but you never know with this SYNC system. I hope that isnt the case! Did he happen to tell you where to get said code if I need it? I can post pics this weekend of the back of the nav screen as that is where I am going to tap into the speaker wire. For what its worth, the CD player is a separate unit, and that is where the wiring harness plugs into, and the screen is just an attachment to that. As far as I could tell my SEL without sub does not have the wiring harness for the sub, though there is a strange connector connected to what looks like a black plastic piece, though I do think that is a sensor as the wire color doesn't match up to what the subwoofer should be. That would be awsome, I have not got a clue as too what it even looks like (back of the nav), so pic's would be great. As for the code(s) he told me the dealer should have it. By any chance do you live or near toronto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 That would be awsome, I have not got a clue as too what it even looks like (back of the nav), so pic's would be great. As for the code(s) he told me the dealer should have it. By any chance do you live or near toronto? Unfortunately (well for you anyway :D ) I live in Phoenix, AZ....I will be working on the sound system tomorrow so I will remember to take as many pics as possible and post them. I will probably start a new thread, but will let you know on here where it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferneyhough Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Unfortunately (well for you anyway :D ) I live in Phoenix, AZ....I will be working on the sound system tomorrow so I will remember to take as many pics as possible and post them. I will probably start a new thread, but will let you know on here where it is. Thank You, looking forward to the pic's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Thank You, looking forward to the pic's Got the system done! Will post pics tomorrow. Good news is the system didn't prompt for any code, and just fired right up with the RE-Q5 setup and connected with two amps and the JL audio stealthbox....sounds awesome too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osiris326 Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hey spongers just now gettimg to the rears, and once again having problems. I took th two screws from the bottom off and the one on the side plus the one from inside the door handle. Took the window button trim piece off but the door still wont come off. The side closest to the rear will move but the front side will not budge. Am I missing a screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spongers Posted June 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hey spongers just now gettimg to the rears, and once again having problems. I took th two screws from the bottom off and the one on the side plus the one from inside the door handle. Took the window button trim piece off but the door still wont come off. The side closest to the rear will move but the front side will not budge. Am I missing a screw? Osiris, you have all the screws off, so once all the sides and center are disconnected from their clips just lift UP over the lock mechanism by the window and that should allow it to come off. I just took mine apart again this weekend and there were the 2 screws on the bottom, the one on latch side of the door, and the one under the door handle. The door will feel really loose on all sides except the top if you have all the clips disconnected...once you're at that state just lift up and over the lock and it should come right off (after disconnecting the wiring for the lighting and window buttons of course). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferneyhough Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Got the system done! Will post pics tomorrow. Good news is the system didn't prompt for any code, and just fired right up with the RE-Q5 setup and connected with two amps and the JL audio stealthbox....sounds awesome too! Any luck with those pic's of your install yet Spongers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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