Ask A Professional Detailer?

[fishx65]

Can't thank you guys enough for your help!!!! I'm gonna go ahead and give the Duragloss products a shot. Everything I've read online tells me that the Zaino and Duragloss products are very similar. I just ran out of my Zaino supplys and was a little shocked when I looked at the price tag for Zaino's AIO. If the durability of Duragloss is the same as Zaino I'll be a happy camper with a few extra bucks in my pocket. Sounds like 105, 601 and a bottle of Aquawax is a solid combination. I do have one last question: The Z2 does not contain any abrasives but the AIO does. Which Duragloss product contains some abrasives, the 101, 111 or 105? I just don't know which one would be best for my needs. My Edge is a daily driver so I'm thinking a little cleaning power will keep her looking a little better through the Michigan seasons.

Edited September 30, 2011 by fishx65

[richy]

Cal, there is a good reason that it is one of their signature products. People love it b/c it is great! As far as your writeup goes, please try to do it before it gets cold. I want to see how it handles the winter for you.

 

 

 

SacAZN, you should be fine with the clear bra as long as you don't use too aggressive a pad. I'm assuming you'll be polishing by random orbital or rotary? The swirl is the strongest. The 501 should clean the bra just fine. If it is scratched up, you may need the swirl on it..it depends on what condition it is in.

 

 

FishX, none of the sealants really contain much in the way of correcting ability. 501 is a good cleaner and the 671 Swirl will correct, but 105 and 111 are pure sealants. The 101 may have a bit. I just use 105. Stick with that and use 601 with it. It does make a difference, and it's not very expensive to add it to your order. I would try 501 first and see how it works for you. It could be considered a mild (correcting ) AIO whereas 671 is a stronger correcting AIO. Not sure what you'll need. I live in the same basic area as you over in Windsor, across the river from Detroit.

[DavidStruff]

I just bought a Red Candy Metallic Edge in August so this will be my first winter with it. Since my outdoor water is shut down for almost seven months a year and the roads are awfully salty in the winter (I live at the bottom of a hill), I will have no choice but to go to a car wash at some point. You all have me scared after reading these 13 pages and I fear doing the wrong thing. I guess the lesser of two evils would be a brushless type, right? Are there different types of brushless systems and any type in particular I need to avoid more than others? And how often would you recommend washing it in the snowy/icy salty months?

 

Sorry for such a stupid question. I just want to be sure I am doing the least amount of damage possible (I was leasing Chevy's for the past 15 years and had no issues ever using regular car washes - not that I would have cared much anyway since I never planned on keeping them, but this is a whole new ballgame for me now).

 

Thanks.

[CanuckG35]

I just bought a Red Candy Metallic Edge in August so this will be my first winter with it. Since my outdoor water is shut down for almost seven months a year and the roads are awfully salty in the winter (I live at the bottom of a hill), I will have no choice but to go to a car wash at some point. You all have me scared after reading these 13 pages and I fear doing the wrong thing. I guess the lesser of two evils would be a brushless type, right? Are there different types of brushless systems and any type in particular I need to avoid more than others? And how often would you recommend washing it in the snowy/icy salty months?

 

Sorry for such a stupid question. I just want to be sure I am doing the least amount of damage possible (I was leasing Chevy's for the past 15 years and had no issues ever using regular car washes - not that I would have cared much anyway since I never planned on keeping them, but this is a whole new ballgame for me now).

 

Thanks.

 

I couldn't possibly recommend Optimum No Rinse enough. It's a rinseless car wash product and is PERFECT for washing your vehicle in the winter months. If you have heavy salt and sand build up, take it to your local coin op and simply spray down your vehicle. Bring it home and wash it with ONR. It's a very safe way to keep your vehicle clean during the winter.

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622

[CanuckG35]

On a side note, I am going on vacation to Europe until the end of October and will not be around to answer any questions during that time. Richy has got you folks covered though.

 

Cheers,

 

Shane

[akirby]

I just bought a Red Candy Metallic Edge in August so this will be my first winter with it. Since my outdoor water is shut down for almost seven months a year and the roads are awfully salty in the winter (I live at the bottom of a hill), I will have no choice but to go to a car wash at some point. You all have me scared after reading these 13 pages and I fear doing the wrong thing. I guess the lesser of two evils would be a brushless type, right? Are there different types of brushless systems and any type in particular I need to avoid more than others? And how often would you recommend washing it in the snowy/icy salty months?

 

Sorry for such a stupid question. I just want to be sure I am doing the least amount of damage possible (I was leasing Chevy's for the past 15 years and had no issues ever using regular car washes - not that I would have cared much anyway since I never planned on keeping them, but this is a whole new ballgame for me now).

 

Thanks.

 

Local coin-op rinse should be fine. Don't forget the undercarriage.

[cal3thousand]

On a side note, I am going on vacation to Europe until the end of October and will not be around to answer any questions during that time. Richy has got you folks covered though.

 

Cheers,

 

Shane

 

Have a blast!

[richy]

Shane nailed it. ONR preceded by a coin op spray down rinse if it's terrible. ONR is a Godsend!! Available in both US and Canada.

 

 

Shane, man that's a dedicated beer drinker to go all the way to Belgium for the best beer, lol. Hope you have an awesome trip my friend!

[DavidStruff]

Local coin-op rinse should be fine. Don't forget the undercarriage.

 

The undercarriage is exactly what I am worried about more than anything. You really think a coin-op bay would be sufficient? It is VERY salty here from roughly November through April (give of take a few weeks).

[akirby]

You really think a coin-op bay would be sufficient?

 

Maybe you're misunderstanding what we mean by coin-op. We're talking about the open bays with a pressure wand, so you're basically pressure washing the undercarriage with clean water.

 

Doesn't get any better than that.

[DavidStruff]

I couldn't possibly recommend Optimum No Rinse enough. It's a rinseless car wash product and is PERFECT for washing your vehicle in the winter months. If you have heavy salt and sand build up, take it to your local coin op and simply spray down your vehicle. Bring it home and wash it with ONR. It's a very safe way to keep your vehicle clean during the winter.

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622

 

In that video he uses the ONR on his wheels. Is that safe to use on Edge wheels?

[DavidStruff]

Maybe you're misunderstanding what we mean by coin-op. We're talking about the open bays with a pressure wand, so you're basically pressure washing the undercarriage with clean water.

 

Doesn't get any better than that.

 

 

No, I do get that. I am just wondering if just plain water, even though pressurized, is enough to get rid of the caked-on salt build-up.

[wilsons66604]

The undercarriage is exactly what I am worried about more than anything. You really think a coin-op bay would be sufficient? It is VERY salty here from roughly November through April (give of take a few weeks).

I did break down and did a couple of brushless drive throughs last winter because I needed the under body spray. I would drive SLOW into the wash bay while it did a high pressure job on my under side.

The only negative on this is that the drive through is pretty tough on the wax finish.

Edited October 4, 2011 by wilsons66604

[richy]

In that video he uses the ONR on his wheels. Is that safe to use on Edge wheels?

 

Yes, it is.

[DavidStruff]

What do you guys think of this for a winter car wash? I used to have a classic car and used to take it here all the time: http://www.scrubadub.com/scrubadubdifference.html

 

The Difference Between

Clean and ScrubaDub Clean!

 

1. Completely Computerized Car Wash

From robotic washers to photoelectric sensors, all equipment is individually selected from the best manufacturers worldwide. They are all controlled by a sophisticated computer system that ensures safety and consistency, every time you wash your car.

 

2. The Secret Is In The Soap

The exclusive "Superglo" formula is our secret. So effective, that its blend of 8 solutions create a glow on your car and it is environmentally safe.

 

3. No Marks, No Dull Finishes

Your car is gently bathed with our soft cloth and warm water. The soft cloth actually helps to buff your car and improve its shine. The result -- no marks, no dull finish and it's safe!.

 

4. We Know Whitewalls From Wheels

Thanks to our sensible sensors, white walls, wheels and chrome each get their own solution. Where white walls get scrubbed, wheels get a pressure spray and chrome gets buffed.

 

5. We Clean Where You Can't Reach

All six sides of your car including an undercarriage wash if you want. Dirt and salt have no place to hide.

 

6. ScrubaDub Smiles, We Guarantee It!

Our training program prepares employees to be knowledgeable, courteous and prompt. We're not happy until you're happy. If you're not completely satisfied, you may always go through the car wash as many times as you want, Free. If we still can't satisfy you, we will refund your money. It's our Bumper to Bumper Guarantee.

 

7. Water Smarts

Much of our water comes from our own wells. It is softened, treated and heated for a spotless wash. We also recycle the water for cleaning wheels and the undercarriage and use far less water to wash a car than you would washing at home. Our used water goes into the town sewer system and is treated where the water used to wash a car at home goes into the storm drains and ends up in lakes ponds and rivers where it pollutes the environment.

 

8. What's Your Wax

Our computer allows us to offer the top two brands of foam car wax. Choose the protection you need. Simonize (15 days) or Simoniz Duraglaze (30 days)

9. Membership Has Its Benefits

ScrubaDub's Car Care Club rewards members with serious added value. From a 4-Day Clean Car Guarantee to free Works Washes. Check out our Car Care Club page on this site and join on-line or ask for a club brochure today, Your car will love you forever.

 

10. The Satisfaction Center

We know that different cars have different needs. Satisfaction Center Carts are located at the exit of all our washes stocked with towels and cleaners to help you with the finishing touch.

 

11. Our Hot Air Dryers Will Blow You Away

Many of our sites now have our hot air touchless drying system. So powerful and oh so hot. We inject hot air into the system and the result is the driest car we've ever seen.

 

12. Free Birthday Bath (For Car Care Club Members)

To make your day bright, show us your license on your birthday and get a Free "Works Wash" on us! (our best wash) (Just visit us the day before, the day of or the day after your Birthday and the wash is on us! The club member's vehicle is entitles to one complimentary Birthday Wash every 12 months.) Car Care Club Information

 

13. We Love Dirty Interiors

We know you don't need your interior cleaned every time you wash your car. That's why we separate our conveyor wash from our interior cleaning bay. This way we can give dirty cars the extra attention they deserve, and there's no waiting for an exterior wash. A better system designed with you in mind. (Available in Natick, Brookline, Roslindale, South Bay, Woburn, and Warwick RI.)

 

 

 

[akirby]

What do you guys think of this for a winter car wash? I used to have a classic car and used to take it here all the time: http://www.scrubadub.com/scrubadubdifference.html

 

Sounds similar to the ones around here that use gently moving cloth strips. The professionals will tell you that you're damaging your paint but I've used that type of car wash on both light and very dark cars for years with no visible scratches or spider webs. The professionals will tell you not to do it. Ultimately it's your decision.

[DavidStruff]

Ultimately it's your decision.

 

That's the part that's killing me lol

 

I leased cars for about 15 years so I didn't care but I had no issues that I could tell by using any old car wash. Before that I had a car which had well over $10,000 worth of custom paint over the years (that's not even an exaggeration - rather than have patch-up work done, I would have the whole part stripped down and repainted) and it was also fine in regular brush car washes.

 

But after reading the owner's manual for my new Edge, I started to get a little paranoid because of the scare tactics in it to only use all Ford cleaning products all the time. Then I came here and practically felt bullied by the pros lol. So the task for me now is to try to figure out the differences between what I HAVE to do to keep my Edge in good shape, and what I should do if I want to be fanatical over it. I just want something realistic and perhaps in the middle of those two sides. And because I am on a fixed income for now, I can't go spending all kinds of money on specialized cleaning products just for the heck of it. I'll do what everyone agrees I have to, but I can't go crazy on that stuff.

[wilsons66604]

That's the part that's killing me lol

 

I leased cars for about 15 years so I didn't care but I had no issues that I could tell by using any old car wash. Before that I had a car which had well over $10,000 worth of custom paint over the years (that's not even an exaggeration - rather than have patch-up work done, I would have the whole part stripped down and repainted) and it was also fine in regular brush car washes.

 

But after reading the owner's manual for my new Edge, I started to get a little paranoid because of the scare tactics in it to only use all Ford cleaning products all the time. Then I came here and practically felt bullied by the pros lol. So the task for me now is to try to figure out the differences between what I HAVE to do to keep my Edge in good shape, and what I should do if I want to be fanatical over it. I just want something realistic and perhaps in the middle of those two sides. And because I am on a fixed income for now, I can't go spending all kinds of money on specialized cleaning products just for the heck of it. I'll do what everyone agrees I have to, but I can't go crazy on that stuff.

I hear ya.

I think the best thing you can do is to avoid automated car washes if at all possible. Wash you car by hand. Just be sure to use a soap made for cars (not your frying pans).

[DavidStruff]

Be nice if someone could compile a little list of "What to never ever do no matter what" and "What's good if you're a super uber fanatic with unlimited time and money" and "What's good to do IF you can" to make my decisions easier lol

[choff1138]

Be nice if someone could compile a little list of "What to never ever do no matter what" and "What's good if you're a super uber fanatic with unlimited time and money" and "What's good to do IF you can" to make my decisions easier lol

 

 

A detailer is going to tell you to never use an automatic car wash of any kind. Earlier in the thread Canuk did describe pretty clearly, what you should do at a minimum, but if you also just are more concerned with clean and keeping the crud off, get your car washed however you can.

[NWS Alpine]

if you are getting a new car you really need to have it prepped properly to protect it from the start. It might not need any correction from the factory but depends on if the dealer prepped it by washing it. If they did then there is now swirls in it no matter what unless they have it professionally done which would cost too much. You want to have a perfectly polished and wax/oil/sealant free paint with no contaminants and then have it sealed with something permanent like Optimum opti-coat. Then to maintain you never send it through and touch wash as you will introduce swirls no question. With something like opti-coat you really only need to sray the dirt loose with a foam cannon/rinse or just a rinse from a coin op or power washer on low preassure.

[akirby]

if you are getting a new car you really need to have it prepped properly to protect it from the start. It might not need any correction from the factory but depends on if the dealer prepped it by washing it. If they did then there is now swirls in it no matter what unless they have it professionally done which would cost too much. You want to have a perfectly polished and wax/oil/sealant free paint with no contaminants and then have it sealed with something permanent like Optimum opti-coat. Then to maintain you never send it through and touch wash as you will introduce swirls no question. With something like opti-coat you really only need to sray the dirt loose with a foam cannon/rinse or just a rinse from a coin op or power washer on low preassure.

 

How do you get swirls from cloth strips that move gently back and forth and not in a circle? And I don't think opti-coat or any other sealant is permanent.

[cal3thousand]

How do you get swirls from cloth strips that move gently back and forth and not in a circle? And I don't think opti-coat or any other sealant is permanent.

 

When "detailers" talk about defects, it's not just swirls. But I agree that it requires pressure and an abrasive to scratch a car. Some car washes are gentler than others.

 

 

Opti Coat is, in fact, permanent. Its cross linked polymers bond to the surface molecules of your paint and can only be removed by abrasion(polishing).

Edited October 11, 2011 by cal3thousand

[richy]

How do you get swirls from cloth strips that move gently back and forth and not in a circle? And I don't think opti-coat or any other sealant is permanent.

 

Akirby, it IS permanent. Read up on it, it's a fascinating product. The technology is changing the industry by the month.

[NWS Alpine]

How do you get swirls from cloth strips that move gently back and forth and not in a circle? And I don't think opti-coat or any other sealant is permanent.

 

The term swirls is used because that is what they look like when we see them. They are not actually swirls but are straight lines. The way the light reflects gives the perception of a swirl. You would be taken out back and beaten on detailing forums if you told them you knowingly take your car through touch washes. Not that it matters because it's your car and like you say you are perfectly fine with your car's look. I am just anal about this stuff so it hits a nerve. Here is a GREAT article from Mike Phillips about different paint issues. It explains marring, swirls, rids, tracers etc http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22234-tracers-rids-pigtails-cobweb-swirls-rotary-buffer-swirls-holograms-water-spots-bird-droping-etchings-micro-marring.html

 

 

Also opti coat is actually a new breed of protection. It's way beyond a normal sealant and bonds permanently until it is buffed off just like clear coat. These type of products are classified as coatings now since they are much stronger than sealants (goes from waxes -> sealants -> coatings). For some paints opti-coat is harder than the oem clear coat. It's absolutely fantastic and is a growing trend in car protection. Detail smarter and not harder. There are a few guys that have been involved with the development and have cars going on 4+ years and the coating is still protecting the same as day 1. It's amazing how well it protects our paint.