Ask A Professional Detailer?

[richy]

A pic would help although plastic is very difficult to deal with. If the PlastX doesn't work (I've never used it), I would be inclined to leave it. I think you will discolour it if you try to buff it. Again, a pic would help.

[PrinzII]

RMP: I would consider doing the fingernail test. If the scratch catches your fingernail, it will be too deep for you to take out with PlastX.

[FtrEdgeOwnr]

Mequiar's Gold Class Carwash Soap good for the 22" wheels on my Sport? Ty in advance

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Should be fine! It is very mild detergent, good for regular cleaning of dusty/muddy wheels (not those with stuck on road tar/brake dust etc.). More important that you use good microfiber cloths or wheel woolies for scrubbing/wiping purposes to avoid scratching the wheels.

Edited July 13, 2014 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[FtrEdgeOwnr]

Awesome thanks! What would be a recommended polish to apply to the wheels?

Edited July 13, 2014 by FtrEdgeOwnr

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

If you do need to polish the wheels, that is, get rid of scratches and swirls, at this stage of the game, you could get away with a finishing polish like Meguiar's 205 and a 3" polishing disc on a dual action polisher.

 

But if you are looking to wax the wheels to keep them clean, you can use any high-quality durable wax or coating. Collinite 845 is a perennial favorite (warm up the product and apply thinly), or maybe something like Meguiar's Ultimate wax. Choices are quite wide, if you want to, look up reviews on Amazon or Autogeek etc. and see what fits your expectations. If you want to go a step further to the pro level, you can put on a coating like Opticoat, CQuartz Finest, etc.

 

Pull the wheels to do the work if you want them looking good & clean through and through. Though I think you can get pretty good coverage for waxing/sealing the entire wheel by hand. Polishing is another matter.

 

Make sense, or did I confuse you?

[FtrEdgeOwnr]

Thanks no confusion, and it looks like I'll stick to the polish! LOL

Edited July 20, 2014 by FtrEdgeOwnr

[rwf78155]

Whats your opinion of using Rejex and my brand new white edge sport?

[roadkill401]

Having just got my Edge, I am coming to the party a little bit late. I don't know if anyone still responds to this thread. In the first few posts, there was a bit about 303 Products, but what was not clearly defined was which one works best with the vinyl inside. Looking on amazon, there are 130350 Aerospace Protectant , 130552 Fabric and Vinyl Cleaner, 130616 High Tech Fabric Guard with Water Repellant, so I am not sure which one he was referring to.

 

Also, I gather from the talk about clay barring and other stuff .. is getting into territory that I have not one clue about. I can pay for this to be done at one of the local auto-spa detailing places near by me, but to be quite honest, I can't really afford it. Later on there is talk about a sealer that is recommended, but I don't know what or more importantly where to get one.

 

After spending a good $24K on a car, I'd like to get a good 8-9 years out of it, so spending a little up front to get it done right makes a bit of sense. But when you have not too much of a clue as to where to spend it or what is right makes that task a bit more hard.

 

The edge is 2 years old. I have no clue what the previous owner has or has not done, but I'd like to protect my investment as much as possible with the limited money that I have. What will give me the best bang for my buck.

[1st American car]

Thanks for providing your expertise on detailing. I just got a new 2014 Edge Limited. What should I do to the paint? Have it professionally waxed/ treated? Being winter in Boston and not having a heated garage, I don't have any place to do anything myself. Are the new Fords adequately prepped for winter?

 

Steve

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Don't rely on a mfr to sell you well prepped vehicles. You want nice, you gotta take care of it yourself. Since the Edge is new, this is the perfect time to have the paint decontaminated (rail dust, road dust, brake dust, etc), and then sealed with a hybrid wax or sealant that will last through the winter muck. Products such as Collinite 845 are very popular due to low cost and high effectiveness, but the longest lasting are usually sealants/coatings such as OptiCoat or CQuartz Finest, which last between 1-2 years and give you a maddeningly good shine. Same products also keep your wheels looking good for a long time. So if you use anyone, find out how familiar they are with one of these products, then get it done. You will probably need a one-pass polishing at most, so that should help keep cost down as well.

[jaymz]

I am new to this site, and just bought a 2013 Edge SEL for the old lady. I also have lots of professional detailing experience and would be happy to provide advice when/where requested.

Some Observations:

1. There are lots of fine detailing products out there; there is no "best" compound or polish or wax/synthetic. I have my favorites and tend to stick with them, although I am not averse to trying something new. Detailing products have come a long way in the last five years.

2. You'll never accomplish Jack-S#!t removing swirls/RIDS or holograms by hand. Get a D/A and a good selection of foam or microfiber pads to correct damaged paint.

3. Correcting Damaged paint is a (minimum) three step process: Compounding, Polishing, and Last Step Product (Wax/synthetic/coating). You can add Clay-barring to that list if necessary.

4. My current "go-to" products are: Meguiars M101 (compound); Meguiars M205 (Polish); and Blackfire Wet Diamond synthetic "wax." I can toss in Wet Glaze 2.0 as a last step gloss enhancer. I use a Griots Garage 6" polisher. Lots of power. Use Lake Country foam pads (mostly). Get a good light to see your work clearly and use a roll-about stool to save your back.

5. I have never found a tire shine product that is all that great.

6. Go online to learn how to use all this stuff. Some good instructional Videos on AutoGeek.

7. Black paint sucks!

8. People have no idea how much time it takes to do a perfect paint restoration job. Most people want to pay $99.95 for a detail. Ain't gonna happen!

9. It's all in the prep!

Edited December 7, 2015 by jaymz

[MICTIP]

I have found the following process to be best for my cars (2013 Edge SEL/w everything), 2015 Camry (candy red):

1. Wash and dry car thoroughly by hand.

2. Apply Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (16oz will last 4-6 applications).

3. Apply P21s Carnauba Wax (6.2oz will last a long time; 8-12 applications).

 

Do this three times a year and your paint will shine like gloss and last forever. I'm in Arizona and my cars always look new. My biggest issue is parking them in parking lots. I park as far a way as I can where no cars ever park (except people like me) and I still worry; definitely paranoid!

[Ginger Smith]

Wow, what a wealth of information on this forum. I read through all 22 pages of this a number of times, so many great suggestions and solutions.

It had never occurred to me that a new car needs to be clayed, polished, sealed and waxed to bring out the best in the factory paint. I had used the clay for the first time last year on my 2008 Sabel, couldn't believe how easy it was and the incredible difference it made in the paint.

After reading this forum got a PC7424XP, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, Power Lock Polymer Sealant, Color Lock Carnauba Wax, pads, backing plates, lots of microfiber, two buckets and grit guards, fine clay bar, Poorboy's Bold & Bright, Stoners Invisible Glass, Lexol Leather Conditioner............. Great products.

 

Picked up the edge the first of March, had to wait a few weeks for the pine pollen to stop flying here in the sunny South. Washed it the weekend after picking it up and a few minutes after getting it dry with the amazing waffle weave microfiber it had already collected a yellowish green tint form the pollen. Thought it best not to clay and polish the pollen into the tinted clearcoat. So waited a few weeks did the wash the right way, fine clay with Meguiers Quik Detail for a lube, power polish, hand seal two coats and one coat wax. Fortunately the dealer didn't do a wash in their car wash complete with swirling brushes, didn't see any swirl marks. But the clay did remove some contaminates, the before and after plastic bag trick was quite revealing. Learned how to use the buffer on the glass, the PC is about as foolproof as it gets. Very easy.

 

Here's some pics, thanks everyone for all the great advice and suggestions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

You did good

[tachessher]

Any tips or suggestions for getting rid of the soot in the tailpipes? I'd like to polish the stainless stee too... Thanks!!!

[richy]

Any tips or suggestions for getting rid of the soot in the tailpipes? I'd like to polish the stainless stee too... Thanks!!!

Wheel acid + Daytona brush

[FirsttimefordCA]

Any ideas how to get zinc based sunscreen out of black leather!?!?!

[enigma-2]

What's the best coating for the windshield?

 

(Rainx only lasts 30 days or until you use the wipers, whichever comes first.)

[Ginger Smith]

I've had good luck with Menzerna Jescar powerlock plus polymer sealant.

 

 

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/menzerna-power-lock-sealant-review-with-pictures/

 

https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power-Lock-Polymer-Sealant/dp/B00P87W0IU

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

FlyByForte is a product Richy uses for the windshield, but he may have updated recommendations, as new products get introduced all the time. The rest of the glass ... CQuartz Finest.

Edited November 18, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[richy]

What's the best coating for the windshield?

 

(Rainx only lasts 30 days or until you use the wipers, whichever comes first.)

 

 

FlyByForte is a product Richy uses for the windshield, but he may have updated recommendations, as new products get introduced all the time. The rest of the glass ... CQuartz Finest.

 

I do still recommend CarPro's FlyByForte. What I like about it is that you do the blades as well. The key with any windshield coating is to thoroughly clean the glass prior to application. Be aggressive with the cleaning, not just window cleaner. Use a clay bar or a magic eraser with glass cleaner or steel wool dry to get the glass as clean and defect free as possible. Another product that does work well on glass, just not for a long time is Optimum Opti Seal. It absolutely rocks on paint and wheels and trim too, so it's a great product to have on hand.

[richy]

Any ideas how to get zinc based sunscreen out of black leather!?!?!

 

Yikes! I'm thinking an APC (all purpose cleaner) like Zep Citrus cut to 4:1 (water:product) along with a microfiber. Do NOT use a magic eraser on your leather. Follow that up with a microfiber soaked in either Optimum No Rinse or water that is well wrung out. Then dry it with another mf.

 

Leather is porous and hopefully the zinc didn't re-dye that section. Ultima's Interior Guard is a great product for leather and plastic protection.

Edited November 19, 2016 by richy

[Groundpounder]

What should I look for in a detailing shop, and what questions should I ask?

[revitus]

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the amazing information on this thread!!! You have helped me successfully prep and protect my new car. I'm the happy new owner of an all black 2017 Edge Titanium, and thanks to all of you (as well as my own efforts and quality Meguiar's products), it looks amazing!!! I took delivery on 7/6, ordered all of my supplies, and started my detailing process 12 days later once I had everything I needed. I did wash it twice with Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash during those two weeks prior to detailing it. It rained all day when I picked up my new car, and I was hoping the dealer didn't do much as far as detailing it, and I'm pretty sure they didn't do much.

 

The total detailing process took me 12 hours to complete the interior and exterior. I started detailing in my garage on the night of 7/18 which included cleaning, conditioning and protecting my black leather surfaces and all other interior surfaces using Meguiar's Rich Leather Cleaner and Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner. I used Stoner's Invisible Glass for all of the interior glass surfaces. Total process took about 3 hours with a few breaks. The next day was hot and humid, and for the first time ever, I washed my new car inside my garage with the door down far enough to keep the direct sunlight off the body of the car! I used all Meguiar's products, starting with the Gold Class Car Wash, followed by the Smooth Surface Clay Kit (then installed my rear bumper protector), then did the glass with Stoner's Invisible Glass, then sealed everything with Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax, and the next day I finally went over it with the Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Wax (Spray). I use the Gold Class Quik Detailer almost daily to keep it shiny between washes. I haven't tended to the wheels yet, but hope to get those cleaned and sealed with the Ultimate Liquid Wax later this week or next weekend. I will then also apply the Meguiar's Endurance Tire Gel. I am very happy with the results so far!!! Detailing my new car is proving to be a very therapeutic process for me. Thanks everyone!