hawks05 Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Ok I replaced the brake booster no problem but now the pedal doesn't reach the brake light switch, how do I adjust this? It's a 2009 ford adage by the way. I hate to beat a dead horse but I'm having the same issue with my wife's 2008 Ford Edge. I have searched everywhere with no answer. The two people on here this thread that have this issue have not seen an answer, at least on this thread. There is about a 1/4in gap between the pedal and the brake switch. How do I adjust this? Edited September 19, 2015 by hawks05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namusmc65 Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Ford has extended warranty coverage on this problem. It is not a recall, although it should be. I have just had the same problem at 62,000 miles in my 2012 Edge. Started doing some research and decided to call my local dealer to check on recalls. There is not a recall but an open order on my unit which means if I have a problem, Ford will take care of it if I bring it in. If you have already fixed yours, if you submit your repair costs to Ford, you should get reimbursed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwil10 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Does anyone know if the "open order" goes out for a 2008 Ford Edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwil10 Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) I got the brake booster out fairly easy using Haynes manual instructions. However, putting the master cyclinder on was a real pain. I used a master cylinder bleeder kit from oreillys but once i disconnected the screws, the brake fluid would stream out and a bunch would come out while attaching the brakes lines on the master cylinder. I finally got it all back together and my pedal was really mushy. I tried to bleed my brakes but it didnt work the pedal was still mushy. I had to take my car up to ford for a ECU bleed. While there the tech said that he just disconnects the master cyclinder from the booster but doesnt remove the brakes line from the cylinder. Instead he takes off the metal (i forget the exact name) that connects where the wind shield wipers are off. He stated that this would allow enough room to remove and install the booster and not need to bleed the system. But now my brake lights stay on because there is a small space between the brake pedal and brake light switch. Any ideas on how to fix? I already bought a new switch so that isnt it. Thanks in advance. Edited February 6, 2016 by nwil10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 can you install spacers? I saw a video on this someplace but can not remember where. Try a search on youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Is the switch OEM or aftermarket, just curious, if you can compare dimensions ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwil10 Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Is the switch OEM or aftermarket, just curious, if you can compare dimensions ... After market. Do you think buying an pem part maters in this case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 It matters in every case IMHO. Some parts are only worth buying OEM with Ford, such as alternators. Others are actually better from the aftermarket, like tie rods & various suspension bits, especially considering the price advantage. When it came to fuel pumps for the Taurus, we avoided the Airtex brand and preferred Walbro. And so on ... I do not know if in this specific instance if there's any difference, I wanted to know if you bought the Motorcraft replacement or another brand, out of pure curiousity. The reason I asked for measurements is following the logic of spark plugs: they need to reach into the combustion chamber a particular amount, they need to be a particular height to seat the coil/wire boot properly and seal the well. You would think the aftermarket makes sure their products are identical in the important dimensions, but sometimes the tolerances are enough out of spec so as to result in problems like the one you are having with the stoplamp switch. Sorry to be so longwinded! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 (edited) Dorman part? In this case size matters. I watched a youtube where a guy literally glued to dimes together and then glued them to the stop on the brake and it actually worked. Edited February 7, 2016 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 This doesn't address the switch issue but maybe the attached will help others regarding removal and installation. Stoplamp Switch removal and installation.pdf Brake Master Cylinder removal and installation.pdf Brake booster removal and installation.pdf 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I did a booster swap in 2.5 hours. I used basic tools such as sockets and screw drivers. It was pretty easy. The booster magic is easy. Flip it they way I have it in the pick and rotate counter clockwise to clear the master and ABS lines and it will come out in 2 minutes. Put the booster back in the same way then press the pedal rod by hand and flip it downward to get it into the firewall. Make sure you check the rod length while both boosters are out of the car. I will post step by step photos and directions at a later date. I'm on my iPhone right now at work but I wanted to share my experience to help you save time. image.jpg Hey guys... I did all this and it was not tough or difficult although I do have a problem. New booster in, used my power bleeder to bleed the brakes and get any air out of the lines (also @ 122k it was time for new fluid). Get in the car and the pedal goes nearly 3/4's down before you can feel the master cylinder engage and pressure for the brakes. Took the car for a test drive and it will stop and lock them up (okay, chatter with antilock brakes) but the point is, it will stop. However the pedal travel is a little concerning and I doubt I will be able to pass inspection. In the post that I quoted above there is something about checking the rod length... did that and they are the same but if there weren't, how the heck would you adjust it. I have the old booster still and tore the car back down today thinking that maybe the rod length was suspect but no. Any ideas? I can push the car back outside while I wait for a reply. Obviously, I prefer putting it back together and getting it right. Signed, Desperate in Texas or Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) Quick update... Put it all back together and the brakes have improved some. Still needs 2/3's of the stroke to feel and stop but it feels like it is stiffer. So, even though I used a power bleeder which is vacuum operated. I may still have some air in the lines. Does anyone know if power bleeders and antilock brakes are bleed as you'd would something without antilock? What I am asking for is proper bleeding procedure with a power bleeder and antilock brakes. Thanks, Edited December 12, 2016 by rgigowski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 (edited) I posted a reply the other day but for some reason, it's not here anymore.I suspect you need to cycle the ABS and bleed the brakes again. A service bay tool (or some scan tools) will cycle the ABS. Another way (that you didn't hear from me) is to drive down a dirt road at about 20 mph and nail the brakes a few times. You need to lock up the brakes and activate the ABS. Don't worry about being aggressive because you need to activate the ABS. Then, bleed the brakes. Edited December 15, 2016 by Zazzy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Thanks... It was the bleed. All is well and I have nailed it after the bleed to active the antilock. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 18, 2017 Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 My car started making the hissing sound. I ordered a new brake booster. Can I drive the car 50-100 miles a day until the weekend when I can fix it? (Don't mind the hard pedal; used to be a wanna-be bodybuilder) FYI my car is a 2007 SEL with 113xxx miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted July 18, 2017 Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 It is not a matter of a hard pedal as much as it is a safety issue to be able to get full braking power when you need it. My experience in my MKX is that it came gradually, from a hissing noise till not being able to brake on time. If you must use your car, just keep a safer distance & brake early. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.0 bros Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Fixed it! I looked for a how to video and couldn't find a comprehensive one, so I made one. Replaced master cylinder and brake booster flushed system. $200 project 1 solid day to complete and video. Hardest part is bleeding the brakes all the way around. Check out the step by step removal video on our channel 6.0 bros on Youtube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro23 Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Just want to report my observations after completing this job. 1) If your master cylinder is not leaking, it does not need to be removed. It has flex lines and can be moved out of the way once detached. 2) Put drivers seat all the way back when you park car before working on it or do it before you pull the battery, 3) Hardest part of job was pulling the wiper arms. took me an hour to get the drivers side off. And be very careful with stubborn arms as you can crack the windshield. 4) you will need to remove the front cowling to have enough room to remove booster. There are a lot of bolts, but is not difficult. It does take time. I completed the project in 4 hours and did not need to bleed brakes or make any other adjustments. Probably wasted 1.5 hours just on the wiper arms. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimnkirstin Posted September 21, 2018 Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 Just want to report my observations after completing this job. 1) If your master cylinder is not leaking, it does not need to be removed. It has flex lines and can be moved out of the way once detached. 2) Put drivers seat all the way back when you park car before working on it or do it before you pull the battery, 3) Hardest part of job was pulling the wiper arms. took me an hour to get the drivers side off. And be very careful with stubborn arms as you can crack the windshield. 4) you will need to remove the front cowling to have enough room to remove booster. There are a lot of bolts, but is not difficult. It does take time. I completed the project in 4 hours and did not need to bleed brakes or make any other adjustments. Probably wasted 1.5 hours just on the wiper arms. No tips, tricks, or anything. What did you have to remove to get to the part? With the proper clearance to remove the booster, and reinstall the new one... maybe a half hour/hour job. It's the time spent removing parts to get to the booster that is, well, time consuming. Maybe next time you can share the details instead of posting a pedestrian explanation of your success. smh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted October 20, 2018 Report Share Posted October 20, 2018 Thanks, a month ago, I have also made everything without removal of tubes the master brake cylinder. I want to tell all people who wrote about this many thanks here.Removal of leads of screen wipers was the most great difficulty for me, it is simply impossible to remove them without special tool, be careful not to make damage. I have dragged out works because of it for two days. A puzzle with extraction of the booster, I have solved much quicker, turn him by 180 degrees and take a reverse side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack b Posted October 20 Report Share Posted October 20 how do i know if its the break boosterand not just the check valve on the booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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