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Towing a 4000-4500lb trailer.... Am I nuts???


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Hi gang. I am new to the forum.

We have a 2009 Limited AWD Edge. The Truck has a class III Hitch with a brake controller. We recently inherited a Brand new 19ft travel trailer that weighs 3700lbs dry.

With the thing loaded up, I think it will be at the very Max, 4500lbs.

Honestly, Can this truck do it??

Manufacturer guidlines aside, Am I crazy for even trying????? I live in British Columbia Canada, with lots of mountains.

What are your opinions??

 

Thanks!!!

Rob

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Hi gang. I am new to the forum.

We have a 2009 Limited AWD Edge. The Truck has a class III Hitch with a brake controller. We recently inherited a Brand new 19ft travel trailer that weighs 3700lbs dry.

With the thing loaded up, I think it will be at the very Max, 4500lbs.

Honestly, Can this truck do it??

Manufacturer guidlines aside, Am I crazy for even trying????? I live in British Columbia Canada, with lots of mountains.

What are your opinions??

 

Thanks!!!

Rob

 

There is always a safety margin built into the towing specs but I certainly wouldn't recommend it. That seems WAY too heavy.

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I had a 2008 AWD and I found pulling about 2200 that I could just start to feel the impact of the additional load if I locked out overdrive. In other words the Edge did not seem to hesitate or lug at that load. I suspect, and i have talked to a Highlander owner who confirms my suspicions (A highlander has about the same HP and torque as an Edge) that at about 3500lbs one really starts to feel the effect. Go above that and I think you will be pushing the limits big time

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In mountains? Not a chance I'd be willing to take. You'll burn your transmission up having to stay in first the entire time, then you'll burn your brakes up getting pushed down the mountain by a trailer heavier than your car (even with trailer brakes, that's a LOT of inertia.) The engine itself could tow 6 or 7k (probably more) with a proper transmission and chassis...of which the Edge has neither. Imagine this...you just made it up an incline at 25 kmph, since that's all you'll be able to do in first, then started down the decline on the other side. The brakes on the trailer go out...and you can't stop. Your vehicle and trailer, combined weight of 9,000 lbs with family and gear...goes plummeting off the side of a mountain.

 

Warning labels and safety instructions aren't there to be ignored. They're there so that the manufacturer doesn't get sued for the failure of the consumer to follow them.

 

For safety's sake...if you absolutely have to tow the trailer, go rent a pickup truck that is actually intended to pull things rather than using a +$30k CUV with the added bonus of a small towing capacity. Your family's survival is well worth the extra $200 or $300.

 

Alternately, you might make friends with a neighbor who owns a pickup and work out a week-long trade.

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As soon as the Minister of Finance approves the trailer I want, I will be. Right now I am looking at a Heartland Edge ( 27ft long ). It comes in at #3800 dry. Besides myself, there is one other that I know of on here who has a trailer that has to be near that amount or over. Can't remember who it is though ...

 

The bottom line is set-up. I don't have the factory hitch. I have a Curt that is rated for #4000 (#400 tongue ). I will be reinforcing it to reduce torsional loads ( which I am sure will make the Edge happier ). I will have a weight distribution hitch, but haven't decided on which one. If you do the math, the edge is capable of towing a near #9000 trailer whether you believe it or not. That is staying withing the axle rating, tongue load and even the tires capacity. Even factoring the angines torque and gear ratios ( which are less than ideal ). That said, even I won't be silly enough to attempt that feat.

 

If you want an idea of how a simple thing in the set-up can make your life better, try this: Shorten your drawbar. Instead of using the hole they gave you, push it in all the way and mark and re-drill. Then try shimming your drawbar so there isn't any slop when it is pinned in place. You won't believe how those two simple things can make a big difference.

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As soon as the Minister of Finance approves the trailer I want, I will be. Right now I am looking at a Heartland Edge ( 27ft long ). It comes in at #3800 dry. Besides myself, there is one other that I know of on here who has a trailer that has to be near that amount or over. Can't remember who it is though ...

 

The bottom line is set-up. I don't have the factory hitch. I have a Curt that is rated for #4000 (#400 tongue ). I will be reinforcing it to reduce torsional loads ( which I am sure will make the Edge happier ). I will have a weight distribution hitch, but haven't decided on which one. If you do the math, the edge is capable of towing a near #9000 trailer whether you believe it or not. That is staying withing the axle rating, tongue load and even the tires capacity. Even factoring the angines torque and gear ratios ( which are less than ideal ). That said, even I won't be silly enough to attempt that feat.

 

If you want an idea of how a simple thing in the set-up can make your life better, try this: Shorten your drawbar. Instead of using the hole they gave you, push it in all the way and mark and re-drill. Then try shimming your drawbar so there isn't any slop when it is pinned in place. You won't believe how those two simple things can make a big difference.

 

Interesting analysis.

 

You mention the "bottom line is set-up". You discuss many things about pulling a trailer "over" the rated capacity of the vehicle, but you NEVER metion any kind of "braking" in your discussion of set-up. No mention of adding a brake controller and setup for adding control. I feel very safe in saying almost all accidents involving towing are caused by the TOW VEHICLE being unable to CONTROL THE TRAILER in a "panic" STOP.

 

I make this statement with over 20 years of towing experience using properly equipped trucks (from 1/2 ton to 1 ton models) pulling everything from utility trailers, boats, travel trailers, 5th wheels, farm equipment. BRAKES are the most important piece of equipment on ANY tow vehicle/trailer combination.

 

You also mention the trailer is 3,800# dry. Imagine you will add some "things" to it - luggage, coolers, food, bikes, chairs, water (holding tanks maybe?) - typical stuff you might take on a trip. Probably add another 400 to 800#'s. Also, you need to consider what you have in the tow vehicle and subtract that from the vehicle rated "towing capacity". Carrying a two or three people? Maybe some more luggage and stuff? What about a full tank of gas? Probably another 500#'s or so. So add another 500# (in the trailer) and 500# (driver and other "stuff" in the vehicle) you are now at least 4,800#'s - probably more....

 

Do I tow with my Edge? Nope - I have a truck to handle my towing needs.

I would imagine the "short" wheelbase of the Edge will not like being "pushed" around by a 27ft/3,800#++ travel trailer - even with the weight distribution hitch/sway bars. Puts alot of stress on a lightweight uni-body vehicle.

 

Another thing to consider.

Wonder what would happen if you were ever involved in an accident pulling a trailer over the rated capacity of the tow vehicle?

Insurance adjusters are pretty smart - they will look for reasons not to pay.

Lawyers are also looking for reasons to sue. Overloaded vehicle? You just gave them a pretty good case....Think about how you will look in front of a judge/jury when the "ambulance chaser" presents the facts.

 

Bottom line - if you really want (need) to tow, get the right vehicle for the job.

Don't overload your tow vehicle. Nothing good will come from it.

 

Good luck.

Edited by StrongWind
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Brakes are a given. I would even go so far s to say anything over 2000lbs should have brakes. The problem I have is the tow capacity itself. Axles, tires vehicle brakes and transmission all come into play. The trailer I am looking into will overload none of these. What I want to know for sure is if Ford ( or any other manufacturer ) has done any tow testing or analysis besides basic calculations on a computer. I have yet to find proof they have.

 

I will cite one known example of a capacity rating oddity. The Ford Crown Victoria. Its tow rating used to be 4000lbs. Then it got changed to 2000 a few years before retirement. No one know why. The chassis never changed.

 

I won't dispute the information you provided. All of it is valid. There is a lot of misinformation out there and more to consider than what the manufacturer arbitrarily suggests. To be perfectly honest, if I had a truck, I would use it. Just because I think it would be more durable in the long run. I will do my best to try and find all the formulas I found and post them for all to consider. They were provided by what most in the RV world would consider a "tow master". Check out the set-ups by Andy Thompson at Can-Am RV. He has been consulting me on the set-up I am looking to do.

 

Derek

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How much can you pull ?

Good article on tow capacities

Here's what happened to the Crown Vic

 

That's about everything I can find for now. I would recommend that anyone towing read everything in "Hitch Hints" Its all good stuff and might even help out your current set-up. Can't remember where I found the Edges axle ratings. It was either in the owners manual of the the shop manual. One of the first things I have to do is get the Edge weighed. Doesn't make much sense to talk about numbers if you don't know what the exact ones are.

 

Well, that's all for now. I don't want to get into a heated debate or anything of the sort. That doesn't do anyone any good. It does highlight different towing philosophy's. If you think towing a 4000# plus trailer with an Edge is nuts, you should see what the Europeans are doing with cars and no weight distributing hitches !!

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