Dead battery

[Alain Jean]

Odds are its one of two things, and bad Battery or theres a relay sticking so something like the fuel pump may still be running wile the car is off. I'm betting on the battery tho.

 

 

same here with 2011 limited AWD, going to garage monday... but I dont know if its going to be necessary, seeing yolder post here,

[Allan]

Well I guess I'll chime in on this one now too. Just this afternoon I went to start up my 2010 Edge AWD Limited w/ Panoramic roof and no go. Not even enough juice to use the key fob or even a dim interior light. It was like the battery had been taken out. My first thought was security feature or something because it was so odd that it would be dead. We were out shopping and such most of the day Saturday and got home around 5pm. No issues. Then today at about 3pm.. dead. So I don't know what the deal is. Nothing was plugged in, no lights left on. I've left the Garmin plugged in overnight before and on without any issue (by accident). So yeah, this one is bugging me because there is no reason this should have happened. We went on a grocery run today and shut it off and it started fine again on a couple stops. So the alternator is charging and the battery is holding a charge... Well, holding it for short periods anyways. We'll see how it goes tomorrow morning.

I have been having the same problem with my 2010 Ltd AWD. Once last Feb, once 6 weeks later. I thought brake light switch was adjusted too sensitive so bent the mounting bracket. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong and told me "Next time, don't jump it, have it towed in as is" So a month later did just that. No problem found after two days in the shop. I bought a mobile booster to carry around for security and nothing happened all summer. Used the car yesterday, parked overnight and today the battery was totally flat. Not even enough juice to allow the security LED to blink. Boosted to start, drove 15 mins into Niagara Falls, turned off and started okay therafter. Nothing left turned on, all doors locked etc. Problem seemed to begin after I used the factory installed remote starter for the first and only time.

 

Did you resolve anything with your problem?

[forthome]

Have 2010 Edge AWD LMTD, w/17,635 miles. Dealer (Lakeview Ford, BC, MI) dead battery changeouts at 8,572 miles - 17 January 2011, and 17,618 miles - 07 March 2012. Warranty work. That's three batteries, counting the factory original, to date.

 

Update: 21.4K miles as of 7/16/12. No problems noted thus far. Also, the last battery the dealership installed carries a CCA rating of 650.

Edited July 17, 2012 by forthome

[ShirleyTermer-Marquis]

I have 2010 Edge, four weeks old with 1000 miles on it. When I tried to start it for the last two days, the battery appeared to be "stone" dead. i.e no interior lights, no dash warning lights. It was towed to the local Ford dealer today.

The battery and charging system tested OK and there was no electrical draw found. They charged the battery and will hold it overnight and try it again in the morning. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

 

I bought a brand new 2010 Ford Edge SEL AWD and have had nothing but problems with it since I bought it not even a year ago. It now only has around 9200 miles on it. I have had it where the instrument cluster wouldn't work or even illuminate so you couldn't tell how fast you were going. None of the dials on the dash would work and this was sporadic. One time it would work and another time it wouldn't. So I had taken it into the dealership to get looked at and everything was working just fine. They told me that I needed to bring it in while the instrument cluster was malfunctioning to be able to read a code off of it. So I drove it back home and they told me to just call them and bring it in again without an appointment so that way they could see it when it wasn't working. So I had taken it in again and had to drive using my GPS to determine my speed as I didn't know how fast I was going as none of the dials were working. Upon receiving back at the dealership again they were able to get some codes off of it and realize that the cluster needed to be replaced. So I had to leave my vehicle there to be fixed while they gave me a loaner to use until mine was ready. So I picked my vehicle up and everything seemed to work fine. Not long after the cluster went bad, but I was driving to see my sick in-laws in Pennsylvania and I left my house with 3/4 tank of gas and we had been traveling for 2-3 hours and I happened to look over to see if we needed gas when I saw the fuel gauge needle to be on full. Now mind you we had not stopped to get gasoline, yet along the way is when my husband and I noticed that the fuel gauge needle was fluctuating and erratic quite regularly. We stopped and got fuel as we were unsure of how much fuel we really had in the vehicle. So we finished up our trip in Pennsylvania. On our way home we had called the salesman and informed him the problem we were experiencing on the trip there and on the way back. He informed us to call and make an appointment to bring it in to get looked at. The next morning I called the dealership and informed them of the problem they told me to bring my vehicle in. So I brought my vehicle in and they were unable to verify the fluctuating of the needle but they did scan for code and it did spit out 4 different codes. They indicated that the codes will not clear. They had to manually configure cluster vehicle using as being reset to factory settings. So I thought I was in the clear and that everything was fine when I went to go pick my daughter up from a friend's house and using my handheld car door clicker to open up my vehicle but there was nothing it was "STONE DEAD." There was no power what so ever. I called Roadside Assistance as my vehicle was covered by this and eventually after a long delay the next day they were out and had someone come and jump start my vehicle. The vehicle started up without any issues. Then again I was to take my daughter to go and pick up some supplies for a school project when I had the same problem. I went to open my doors and nothing, NO POWER, IT WAS STONE DEAD. I WAS PISSED. I called a number for corporate customer service and they were looking into buying my vehicle back or giving me an exchange. After I spoke with the service man at the dealership and referred the information to the corporate customer service he indicated that my claim for a buy back is negate due to the fact that once in awhile I may not drive my vehicle for a couple of weeks. I have spoken with many people and they just laugh when they heard that's what Ford had told me. I said to them what if I went on vacation and left my vehicle at the airport for 2-3 weeks would I have to worry about coming back and my vehicle won't start. That is a bunch of bull.

 

SO YES I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AS YOU AND UNLESS WE STAND UP AND DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT FORD WILL GET AWAY WITH IT.

 

I didn't pay around $31,000 for my Edge to have to worry about it.

 

Anyone have any ideas on what we can do about these problems???????????????

Edited April 12, 2012 by ShirleyTermer-Marquis

[OLDSGUY37]

My cd changer was trying to change cds all night and in the morning the battery was dead. It has been cold in Ontario this past week and it has happened twice.....and never before in the last 2 years. I have to speak to the dealer next week.

[NeckDlight]

Has anyone had any luck with figuring this out. I bought a 2008 limited Ford edge with no warrenty from a used car place. Smart right. Well my battery is completely dead within two days of not driving it. I did a long slow charge on the battery and took it to advance and they checked it for me and told me my battery was fine.i know it's advance and all but. Anyways I have not started digging into this yet. But I'm curious if anyone has gotten anywhere.

[NeckDlight]

Has anyone had any luck with figuring this out. I bought a 2008 limited Ford edge with no warrenty from a used car place. Smart right. Well my battery is completely dead within two days of not driving it. I did a long slow charge on the battery and took it to advance and they checked it for me and told me my battery was fine.i know it's advance and all but. Anyways I have not started digging into this yet. But I'm curious if anyone has gotten anywhere.

[enigma-2]

My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine.

 

SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7vs6zbY665Z05

 

Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ???

 

Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zfs6zbXSJTFQR

 

Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car.

 

One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals.

 

These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.

Edited October 19, 2017 by enigma-2

[NeckDlight]

This is very good information. I have tried doing a draw test and my volt meter wasn't showing anything.i am skeptical of my current battery. I pulled it out and the sticker says 11/16 how ever it is a car quest battery

I have always been a interstate battery guy myself. I am debating on going and getting the old load testing battery tester at harbor freight. However I do like the battery tester from Amazon you have.

[macbwt]

This is very good information. I have tried doing a draw test and my volt meter wasn't showing anything.i am skeptical of my current battery. I pulled it out and the sticker says 11/16 how ever it is a car quest battery

I have always been a interstate battery guy myself. I am debating on going and getting the old load testing battery tester at harbor freight. However I do like the battery tester from Amazon you have.

Want something better buy an AGM battery. Get rid of the wet battery.

[NeckDlight]

Welp Im back with the battery drawing issue. I let my edge sit for a week and dead battery. Back in November I put a brand new interstate battery in it. I pulled the battery brought it inside popped the caps and two of the cells were froze. Called interstate and they told me this was due to the battery discharging. Something is coming on intermittently while the vehicle sits. The past two weeks have been super cold where I live. Highs in the mid 20s. I will get to the bottom of this. Just got to have to do some investigating.

[enigma-2]

Sorry to hear this. Once the battery freezes its shot. As to why, are you running short trips in super cold weather? If so, it's possible that the battery had never fully recharged during each trip. May have to use a battery charger to continue to restore the charge.

 

If the car does have a hidden power draw, here's one way to find it. You will need to put a VOM (volt-ohm-milliamp) meter between the + cable and battery + post. (In series). Set the meter to amperes (before you make the connection) and take a reading. It should only read a hundred milliamps or less. If you are seeing a higher draw, you may have parasitic draw. To figure out where it's coming from, start by pulling one fuse at a time and check the meter to see if the draw has stopped. When you find the circuit, you will need to check the schemitic to see where the circuit runs to. Then start by disconnecting each connection, starting at the end of the circuit. This will tell you where the fault lies in the circuit. It could be a discrete device or a short (look at the conductor surface for shorts).

[1004ron]

Welp Im back with the battery drawing issue. I let my edge sit for a week and dead battery. Back in November I put a brand new interstate battery in it. I pulled the battery brought it inside popped the caps and two of the cells were froze. Called interstate and they told me this was due to the battery discharging. Something is coming on intermittently while the vehicle sits. The past two weeks have been super cold where I live. Highs in the mid 20s. I will get to the bottom of this. Just got to have to do some investigating.

Good luck finding the parasitic drain, because it takes just one deep discharge to ruin a lead acid battery.

 

The place where you bought the Interstate should still give you a free replacement regardless.

 

Costco has the best deal on Interstate batteries these days, lowest price ans longest warranty at 42 months free replacement.

[vega]

My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine.

 

SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7vs6zbY665Z05

 

Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ???

 

Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zfs6zbXSJTFQR

 

Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car.

 

One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals.

 

These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.

Conductive test of the CA or CCA is the ONLY way to really check. I'm shocked at the number of NEW batteries at fault.

[NeckDlight]

Yeah. For month the battery was fine cranking hard and fast. I would drive it a couple days then park it a couple days. This past week my kids have been out of school so I had no need to drive my "family car" the edge. I have been driving old faithful. The original smart car. 1989 Ford escort. Last week during Christmas I moved the edge a couple times and drove ur to the store a short trip. I did think to myself seems like it's turning over slower then normal. But I let it sit for a week and it was dead. I let the cells thaw out and have had the battery on a slow charge. Put the battery in and it started right up alternator is charging good. After being charged I put my solar BA7 tester on it and the battery checked out good. I I took the battery back out and is currently on a slow charge. I believe Tuesday I'm going to take the battery back to interstate and have them check it out. I just find it extremely hard to believe that the battery would drop out in just a week.

The times I did a draw test I was getting no reading what so ever. I'm going to do it again to make sure I'm not doing the draw test wrong. It's just a little frustrating. But I am very fortunate I have my old faithful the "89 classic"