curio Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) Got the 9005SU SilverStar Ultra's for the brights and H11ST Silverstar's for the lows. I purchased 4 of the H11's because I wanted to put some in the fogs, but it looks like the round fog lights on our 2007 Edge are each an all enclosed single unit and I can't replace just the bulb. Oh well, I have some xtra H11's now. Edited December 3, 2009 by curio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablb Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) any one use them as their brights. I already have HID for lows, but not really wanting to pop for HIDs in my high as I rarely use them.. so this might be the go between. I like and use Sliverstars BUT. If you are looking to use them in the High position because they are a whiter/blue color with your HID's. Save your $’s or get the PIAAs, etc.. Here are some before and after. I took some before looking out the windshield didn't bother taking any after, THEY are yellow compaired to 6000K HID's. 1st pic is silverstar Ultra 9005 2nd is OEM ab Edited December 8, 2009 by ablb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hateonhaters Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I hope that isn`t a picture of BlazedUp Kid - Cause we don`t need another ignorant person like him in the world. Not my business but.... Thats just wrong...... U neva talk about a MANS family....period. if u have a problem with him take up with him.... LEAVE THE KIDZ OUT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matts 2010 Edge Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 I have Silver Star Ultras in my Mustang for both the headlights and foglights with no problems. Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyerjmr33 Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Harbor Freight has a sale going on for 2005 bright white HL bulbs. They are $5.99 each---soooooooo, I bought a couple of them and installed them in place of the stock high beams---- What a difference! They really are super white and bright! Unfortunately, they do not have any H-11 so it was off to the parts store for them. The Silverstars are not quite as white, but they do make a helluva difference. I also did a little adjusting of the aim-- raising it up from the stock adjustment. LET THERE BE LIGHT! :happy feet: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Lex, Which HID kit did you use ?,TIA, Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45auto Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 New to Edge and from what I'm seeing, Hi's and Lows are a seperate bulb? I like Silverstars, have them on my Dodge Cummins, which help a lot, but still not enough, as Dodge lighting needs serious help! Back to the Edge, I have a 2010, which Hi and Low do I need? I want to try the Ultras. I can't believe the Acura TSX we had, came with HID. Once you have them and go back to regular, you realize what you had! I also can't believe this $40K Limited doesn't come standard with HID and our $30K TSX did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Lex, Which HID kit did you use ?,TIA, Marty sorry for delayed anwer, I guess I missed this I used Retro Solutions electronic NOT slim ballast kit, 35w, 5000k... he is a seller here at the price now, I would likely just get the slim kit, but it is not needed as we have plenty of room read up on the HID threads here as there is a lot of info on these here: relays or no relays, 5000 versus other color, 35w versus 55w... more than you could ever want to know is the HID threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Thanx Lex,my Touareg has Bi-zenon lights and the flash to pass are Hoen Zenon match H7 70 watt,a terrific combo,even though I didn't do the six gun salute,which allows Zenon high,and flash to pass on with the fog's, Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaak in TO Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Folks, I had replaced my front lights with the following bulbs almost two years ago with NO issues. The light output is fantastic with no night time issues. I am a VERY HAPPY customer and would go the same route again. Low Beams: Narva H9 - ordered from their website High Beams: HIR 1 (Toshiba) - ordered from their website. Here is what I had followed thanks to Daniel Stern: ******************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************* > Hello ... I have a brand spanking new Ford Edge Limited AWD with H11 as the low beams. Ford have recently "gotten it" and have been installing decent optics on their cars (finally). H11 is an ultralong-life, rather low-output bulb producing 1350 lumens. You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html -- don't make this substitution in the fog lamps, however. > I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year. Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly. Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.) Here's the comparison: stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $23.95/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan. The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bender Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 Folks, I had replaced my front lights with the following bulbs almost two years ago with NO issues. The light output is fantastic with no night time issues. I am a VERY HAPPY customer and would go the same route again. Low Beams: Narva H9 - ordered from their website High Beams: HIR 1 (Toshiba) - ordered from their website. Here is what I had followed thanks to Daniel Stern: ******************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************* > Hello ... I have a brand spanking new Ford Edge Limited AWD with H11 as the low beams. Ford have recently "gotten it" and have been installing decent optics on their cars (finally). H11 is an ultralong-life, rather low-output bulb producing 1350 lumens. You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html -- don't make this substitution in the fog lamps, however. > I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year. Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly. Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.) Here's the comparison: stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $23.95/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan. The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details. I've always had a good laugh at the companies putting a blue tint on their bulbs, It acts a filter blocking light, people get fooled by the color change and think there is more light hitting the road, but I suppose as long as people will buy them they'll market them. These HIR1 bulbs sound good, I'm going to look into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaak in TO Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I've always had a good laugh at the companies putting a blue tint on their bulbs, It acts a filter blocking light, people get fooled by the color change and think there is more light hitting the road, but I suppose as long as people will buy them they'll market them. These HIR1 bulbs sound good, I'm going to look into them. They ARE bright. The Narva H9's I have for the lows are bright as well. The odd person thinks I have high beams till I flash the highs .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bender Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) They ARE bright. The Narva H9's I have for the lows are bright as well. The odd person thinks I have high beams till I flash the highs .... I just placed my order for 2 toshiba 9011 HIR1 high beams and 2 Narva H9's. I also went to the GM dealer and looked at the Phillips version of the HIR1, no reflective technology. After some research it turns out they're over clocking thier filament so it will achieve the minimum lumens of a HIR1 by making the maximum legal wattage of the HIR1 9011 bulb(but thier bulb is still rated at the same wattage, bastards), because they're drawing maximum wattage bulb life is drastically reduced; funny because the price isn't. So real HIR1 bulbs are from GE and Toshiba. These bulbs are simply unheard of, everywhere I went to buy them, with the exception of GM; I got blank stares and they found nothing in their books. Apparently the GM Avalanche, Dodge Viper, and the new Nissan Maxima came stock with HIR1 bulbs, although if you go to the dealer and order they may hand you a Philips fake jobby. Edited January 22, 2010 by bender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribby2001 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) What is equally important besides the Lumens light output intensity is the color temperature of the light produced. What is the color temperature of these "new" 2100-lumen H9 bulbs? example: http://www.buyheadlightbulbs.com/v/vspfiles/photos/MT-494-3.jpg There is a reason why fog lights are yellow. Much better in inclement weather. Bright high color temperature blue light foozles your night vision. Add fog at night and blue light is the worse! Not trying to start a war just stating some facts. > I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year. Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly. Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.) Here's the comparison: stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours Edited January 14, 2010 by Tribby2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum White Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 I have the Silverstars in both the HI and LO beams. I also adjusted the LO beams up a notch or two and have much better illumination on the road without annoying oncoming traffic. I changed them about a month or so ago and am VERY comfortable with the results. It was $$ but worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45auto Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Going to try the PIAA's instead, all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Just installed H11 HOEN Zenon match lamps,read 285 ft candles at the highest light source ,I will put the Oem H11 Back and compare the light output,Bluish light looks good ,haven't driven yet,Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempie Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Just an FYI. I used the HIR bulbs (high beams) in my previous car for 3+ years. When I sold the Cad. I changed the HIR bulbs to the MKX. The HIR bulbs are worth every $ as they last and provide a great/bright high beam. HIR high beam is a "must have" IMO. As is HID for low beams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45auto Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) Installed the PIAA's, a vast, noticeable improvement! Glad I did.. Light is whiter and brighter with improved projection. PIAA Extreme White Plus, two thumbs up! Edited January 18, 2010 by 45auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computerguy Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) I ordered some high and low beam replacement for my 2009 Ford Edge Limited. The Narva H9 bulb is supposed to replace the H11 OEM bulb, but the Narva has a top and bottom plastic tab between the metal prongs where the wiring harness connects, and the H11 that I pulled from my Edge does not. My wiring harness will not allow the Narva bulb to plug in. The extra tab on the Narva prevents connection. Anyone else experience this? I've sent an email to candlepowerinc.com - awaiting a reply. (Note: I'm not talking about the High beam bulb where you have to trim the tab on the bulb itself). I've attached two images to show differences. Edited January 24, 2010 by computerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bender Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I ordered some high and low beam replacement for my 2009 Ford Edge Limited. The Narva H9 bulb is supposed to replace the H11 OEM bulb, but the Narva has a top and bottom plastic tab between the metal prongs where the wiring harness connects, and the H11 that I pulled from my Edge does not. My wiring harness will not allow the Narva bulb to plug in. The extra tab on the Narva prevents connection. Anyone else experience this? I've sent an email to candlepowerinc.com - awaiting a reply. (Note: I'm not talking about the High beam bulb where you have to trim the tab on the bulb itself). I've attached two images to show differences. From what I've read your suppose to shave off the offending tab to allow fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabtaj1 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I actually just changed the lows, highs and fogs. I installed the hid low (8000k standard digital) and fogs (8000k slim digital) and piaa extreme white highs. All I can say is WOW. I am very happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computerguy Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 From what I've read your suppose to shave off the offending tab to allow fitment. Maybe I've overlooked the post, but I see no mention of modifying the LOW beam to fit - only the tabs for a high beam replacement. A previous post mentions the following comment from Candlepowerinc that leads me to believe no modding is necessary for the low beam. "You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bender Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Maybe I've overlooked the post, but I see no mention of modifying the LOW beam to fit - only the tabs for a high beam replacement. A previous post mentions the following comment from Candlepowerinc that leads me to believe no modding is necessary for the low beam. "You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html" I got the information from sources other than this forum, it's pretty obvious what you have to do just look at your picture you posted. Enjoy your lights when you get them working. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computerguy Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I got the information from sources other than this forum, it's pretty obvious what you have to do just look at your picture you posted. Enjoy your lights when you get them working. Thanks - I just didn't see any mod needed from the info here, and the candlepowerinc site didn't show any modification needed. I did get a reply from them. "On any vehicle that originally takes H11, you need to shave a small ridge of plastic off the H9 bulb's connector so that the H11 socket will snap on. This can be achieved with an X-acto knife, Dremel tool, or other suitable tool. Best regards, Candlepower, Inc." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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