Jump to content

Retro Fit OEM Fog Lamps


Recommended Posts

My vehicle is an 2010 Edge SE, but I believe the same info applies to other models as well.

 

There has been a lot of discussion here on how to install OEM fog lights, including can it even be done!. After a lot of research and testing, I finally have some answers.

 

There is no wiring harness pre-installed running to the lamps. If your Edge didn't have fogs from the factory, you'll have to make your own.

 

You'll need to replace the headlight switch with a "with fogs" version. This is a simple task, and can be done without going behind the dash. The original sw can be carefully pried out without marring the surround, and the new one plugs directly into the wiring harness. In this case, the harness DOES have all necessary wiring between the switch and the SJB (Smart Junction Box, aka fuse box).

 

The SJB contains all the components required: microprocessor logic, relay, and (at least in my car) even the fuse for the fog lamp (F21, 15 Amp) already installed. You can verify that all is working properly after replacing the headlight switch by setting all the conditions for the fogs to work (car running, "Lo Beam" or "Auto", etc) and pulling out the switch to turn the fogs on. You'll see the fog indicator on the sw illuminate for the fogs and if you listen carefully, you'll hear the relay click in.

 

Here's where it gets tricky. The SJB feed for factory fog lights is via connector C2280e, pin 3 and from there to the lamps via a brn/yel wire. That brn/yel wire is not installed (nor is the ground wire running from the lamps). I verified that there is a spade connector in the SJB that the wire would normally connect to. All I had to do was push a probe wire into the connector, slot 3, and hook a test lamp between that probe wire and ground. When I turned on the fogs, the test light lit up.

 

SO I still have left to do:

 

- find a suitable female wire end to push into the connector to marry to the spade "male" portion in the SJB. That may turn out to be the biggest challenge. It isn't a stock Radio Shack connector.

 

- route the above feed wire thru the firewall and to the front of the car, making it look "OEM" so some Barney Fife type technician doesn't void my warranty for aftermarket installation.

 

- find a stock connector for the bulbs.

 

- and hook up a ground. There is a suitable grounding location existing on top of the frame just forward of the battery junction box.

 

Bottom line: It CAN be done. Just some small problems yet to solve.

 

Any ideas on how to complete?

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sure could wire from the battery with an appropriate relay, etc.

 

I guess I neglected to mention that a goal of mine is to retain "stock" appearance and functionality on the fog lights. So if you keep "stock" components, the only way I know of is as I describes above.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lex: I kind of discovered that the covers were removable when I was initially researching the project. However, I want to keep an eye on this to see how to do it in case Ford doesn't release their foglight kit.

 

TN: Do you plan to install HID Fogs?

Edited by PrinzII
Link to comment
Share on other sites

At least to begin with, I'm staying stock. I'm not sure what the stock bulb is, I just know the fog light assembly came with a bulb, H11/55W.

 

From reading posts, it seems that yellow is really best for cutting thru fog. So later I may change to yellow if the stock bulbs are not. We do have a lot of pea soup fog here in east Tennessee.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
At least to begin with, I'm staying stock. I'm not sure what the stock bulb is, I just know the fog light assembly came with a bulb, H11/55W.

 

From reading posts, it seems that yellow is really best for cutting thru fog. So later I may change to yellow if the stock bulbs are not. We do have a lot of pea soup fog here in east Tennessee.

 

Dave

 

Correct. The bulb for the fogs is the same as your low beams (H11). I have been entertaining a set of yellow HIDs (4000 K to 6000 K) for the fogs because of the light output at that range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct. The bulb for the fogs is the same as your low beams (H11). I have been entertaining a set of yellow HIDs (4000 K to 6000 K) for the fogs because of the light output at that range.

 

If you want yellow color beams than you want 3500K/3000K HID bulbs. 4300K is what all OEM HID bulbs are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fog Light Installation is DONE!!!!!!! And works well.

 

Items I had to purchase:

 

- Chromed plastic bezels (one left and one right)

- Fog Light Assemblies (2)

- H11 Bulb connectors (2)

- Headlight Switch with "fog" position

 

The one amateur-looking part of the job was penetrating the firewall with the hot lead for the lights (as well as the temperature sensor wires for another mod I did at the same time, a different rear-view mirror with temp and compass). The only reasonable option was to slit the rubber boot used for the main wiring harness firewall penetration. I resealed it on both sides with silicone caulk but it still isn't "professional".

 

The hardest part was figuring out how to physically connect the hot lead to the correct plastic connector block on the Smart Junction Block (Fuse box). As mentioned before, there is a male connector physically in the SJB that provides power to the fog lights when the headlight switch is turned to that appropriate position. But there is no corresponding female connector in the plastic connector block. It's a non-standard (in terms of parts from Radio-shack or auto parts store) connector. I searched and located an unused connector in the rear of the car. It apparently is for the power lift gate switch, which I don't have. I learned how to disassemble the connector and remove the individual metal connectors. (Carefully release retaining clips that hold the red "face" in the connector, and then release another plastic tab the holds the individual wire in to housing.) I used one of the metal connectors I "salvaged" to connect my hot lead into the SJB and all is well. It works like it should and LOOKS like is should (except for the firewall penetration).

 

I'm a happy camper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one amateur-looking part of the job was penetrating the firewall with the hot lead for the lights (as well as the temperature sensor wires for another mod I did at the same time, a different rear-view mirror with temp and compass). The only reasonable option was to slit the rubber boot used for the main wiring harness firewall penetration. I resealed it on both sides with silicone caulk but it still isn't "professional".

 

I'd say - given no one will see that - all is fine. but, if you cared, why didn't you drill a small hole and just get a firewall grommet? that would have been as pro as you could do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With incidentals (wiring, shrink tubing, wire sleeve, etc) I probably spend about $275-300

 

And yes I could have drilled a hole in the firewall, but didn't because:

-concerns over bare metal rusting

-concerns over whats on other side

 

maybe I was penny-wise and pound foolish, but that was my thinking.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Fog Light Installation is DONE!!!!!!! And works well.

 

Items I had to purchase:

 

- Chromed plastic bezels (one left and one right)

- Fog Light Assemblies (2)

- H11 Bulb connectors (2)

- Headlight Switch with "fog" position

 

The one amateur-looking part of the job was penetrating the firewall with the hot lead for the lights (as well as the temperature sensor wires for another mod I did at the same time, a different rear-view mirror with temp and compass). The only reasonable option was to slit the rubber boot used for the main wiring harness firewall penetration. I resealed it on both sides with silicone caulk but it still isn't "professional".

 

The hardest part was figuring out how to physically connect the hot lead to the correct plastic connector block on the Smart Junction Block (Fuse box). As mentioned before, there is a male connector physically in the SJB that provides power to the fog lights when the headlight switch is turned to that appropriate position. But there is no corresponding female connector in the plastic connector block. It's a non-standard (in terms of parts from Radio-shack or auto parts store) connector. I searched and located an unused connector in the rear of the car. It apparently is for the power lift gate switch, which I don't have. I learned how to disassemble the connector and remove the individual metal connectors. (Carefully release retaining clips that hold the red "face" in the connector, and then release another plastic tab the holds the individual wire in to housing.) I used one of the metal connectors I "salvaged" to connect my hot lead into the SJB and all is well. It works like it should and LOOKS like is should (except for the firewall penetration).

 

I'm a happy camper.

 

Are you running the regular halogens or HIDs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • 5 years later...

At least to begin with, I'm staying stock. I'm not sure what the stock bulb is, I just know the fog light assembly came with a bulb, H11/55W.

 

From reading posts, it seems that yellow is really best for cutting thru fog. So later I may change to yellow if the stock bulbs are not. We do have a lot of pea soup fog here in east Tennessee.

 

Dave

You can color your existing bulbs by using several coats of Dupli-Color Metalcast Yellow.

 

There's an excellent discussion on fog lamps at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...