kempie Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Got this idea from here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/ma...arkerflash.html a couple of years ago and did it w/the Cad I had then. The MKX seemed a perfect candidate for this mod. So, when installing the HIDs from RetroSolutions,(last Sun.) I did the front markers. Did the rears tonight and am very pleased with the results. I will post some pics of the installation and comments after work tomorrow. (Too late tonight in MI.) Later, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradt03 Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Got this idea from here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/ma...arkerflash.html a couple of years ago and did it w/the Cad I had then.The MKX seemed a perfect candidate for this mod. So, when installing the HIDs from RetroSolutions,(last Sun.) I did the front markers. Did the rears tonight and am very pleased with the results. I will post some pics of the installation and comments after work tomorrow. (Too late tonight in MI.) Later, Bill very cool, I'd like to see the end result (video if possible) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) nice.. great post/idea. post up some details and photos for your MKX, it should be pretty darn easy mod for others to follow. if my '08 Edge had these, I would do it right now. Edited July 15, 2009 by Lex Talionis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempie Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) First I removed the screws holding the wheel well cover in place.(you need to get your hand in there.) Then I used a coat hanger with a wire taped to it and pushed it down along the fender to the marker light area. After removing the marker light I found that there was not enough wire attached to the marker light to work with so I cut the marker light off and got a generic replacement (which had to be trimmed a little). I pushed the OEM wires & new marker light wires out the back hole in the holder and connected the Positive + to the + OEM wire and the negative - to the wire I had pushed down. Replaced the marker light & assembly and connected the new ground wire to the blinker wire. Did the same thing in the front. The markers are easy to get to after getting behind the wheel well cover and there is plenty of wire. I used a dremel to drill a hole in the bottom of the headlight housing to route the wire from the turn signal bulb wire to the marker light.(a dab of silicone seal on the hole once the wire has been connected seals the hole). Those headlight housings are a PIA to get your hand in to change bulbs ect. I liberally filled the scotch lock connectors w/dielectric grease to reduce any corrosion and taped them with good elect. tape. Other connections were heat shrinked & taped. Now, as to how they work. The fronts are just as described. Markers blink w/turn signals when headlights are off and alternate with turn signals when headlights are on. Rears do the same but, they also come on when the brake lights come on and the headlights are off. Then when the headlights are on and the brake lights are on the markers go off. So with headlights on and brakes on and L turn signal on the R marker will be out and the L marker will be blinking. Too bad we have the same bulb for turn signal and brakes but thats the way it is. As to why to do this? Because you can. Edited July 16, 2009 by kempie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) there are some connections that are sure to fail in MI weather. They should all be soldered and taped with heat shrink or at least heat shrink connectors with heat shrink over them. That scotchlok will fail in very short order. Other than that good idea. Edited July 17, 2009 by securinu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempie Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 As mentioned I applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease in the scotch lock connectors(slc) and securely taped them. The slc are not severly exposed to the weather and have lasted, in the same application on my Cad. for 5 yrs. or so. However, Yes, solder is better. I'll let you know when they or the Cad.s fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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