Kanatronic Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 I have a good deal of a very good 8 inches subwoofer, but I do not want to go too deep into modifications, so I was wondering of the lot of people that have exchanged the stock subwoofer, does anybody had a picture, and can provide the dimensions of the stock subwoofer, I know it is 8 inches, but I need the depth, how many holes, connectors if any, and also if it is dual voice coil or just standard single voice coil, if possible the impedances, etc....(you can measure it with multimeter) Any help will be really appreciated...thanks guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 Anybody guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07CRUSH Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 It's 5 inches deepand single voice coil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted June 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) It's 5 inches deepand single voice coil The one in the picture is dual voice coil indeed, if you look closely, you have two connections, one on the top and one on the bottom, now the question is if thye are using both, or just one coil??? But now we are getting closer, thanks buddy.... Edited June 15, 2009 by Kanatronic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07CRUSH Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) I would assume both, the amp connects to both connections(if you need more pics just PM) Edited June 15, 2009 by 07CRUSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted June 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I would assume both, the amp connects to both connections(if you need more pics just PM) Yes please, all the info you can provide us will be really useful, and not only for me, for others as well, replacing the subwoofer for a more efficient and versatile one, is a very simple operation, and IMO the first step, it will give you an audiophile taste with a more compact and tight bass... I will send you my email address, and if you have a multimeter handy please measure the resistance between the positive and negative in each section of the coils, that will give you an aproximate value for the impedance as the other two components are very small... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Just finished replacing the factory subwoofer with an 8" Kicker Solo Classic. I'm pushing it with a Kicker ZX400.1. It's not a simple operation like the OP mentioned, but its not too bad. I had to make a custom bezel for the new subwoofer's mounting holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Camilleri Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 I have a good deal of a very good 8 inches subwoofer, but I do not want to go too deep into modifications, so I was wondering of the lot of people that have exchanged the stock subwoofer, does anybody had a picture, and can provide the dimensions of the stock subwoofer, I know it is 8 inches, but I need the depth, how many holes, connectors if any, and also if it is dual voice coil or just standard single voice coil, if possible the impedances, etc....(you can measure it with multimeter) Any help will be really appreciated...thanks guys... The best thing to do is go the JL Audio website and look at their stealth boxes. These are sub woofers specifically made for your vehicle, in this instant a Ford Edge. It takes roughly 1 hour to install, with no cutting and use of existing hardware. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Do you happen to have the stealth box for the edge/mkx? Isn't this thing like $600? Also the instructions for the stealth box say that you have to cut the quarter panel in order to install the speaker grill. The best thing to do is go the JL Audio website and look at their stealth boxes. These are sub woofers specifically made for your vehicle, in this instant a Ford Edge. It takes roughly 1 hour to install, with no cutting and use of existing hardware. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 The best thing to do is go the JL Audio website and look at their stealth boxes. These are sub woofers specifically made for your vehicle, in this instant a Ford Edge. It takes roughly 1 hour to install, with no cutting and use of existing hardware. Hope this helps. I'm not a bass freak, and I'm just looking for a little more definition in the bass dpt, to me the stock almost do it, and IMO it is easier to just drop a subwoofer the same size in there, the main problem with the subwwofer are the specs, noobdy knows them, and this way is a lot harder to replace it, keeping the stock amp and gear associated, which I'm not planning to replace neither...(I have a decent stereo home, the stereo in the car is just a secundary option for me...) BTW if I'm not mistaken you need to drill the metal, and cut some plastic pieces to install the stealth box in the Edge, is not a plug and play solution, unless we are talking of two differet boxes, on top the subwoofer I'm planning to install is in a completelly different league from any JL Audio (with all due respect to the JL lovers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 I'm not a bass freak, and I'm just looking for a little more definition in the bass dpt, to me the stock almost do it, and IMO it is easier to just drop a subwoofer the same size in there, the main problem with the subwwofer are the specs, noobdy knows them, and this way is a lot harder to replace it, keeping the stock amp and gear associated, which I'm not planning to replace neither...(I have a decent stereo home, the stereo in the car is just a secundary option for me...) BTW if I'm not mistaken you need to drill the metal, and cut some plastic pieces to install the stealth box in the Edge, is not a plug and play solution, unless we are talking of two differet boxes, on top the subwoofer I'm planning to install is in a completelly different league from any JL Audio (with all due respect to the JL lovers) I considered doing this a bit back as I felt similar to you. I am not a bass head, but felt I wanted.. a bit more than the Audiohpile system was coughing up for bass response. So, I talked to Crutchfield (IIRC your not as much of a fan of them as I am), but nevertheless their techs were saying that to do a new after-market sub you would really have to do a new amp. they claim you need at least 100 watts to an after market sub to "keep from damaging them".. anyone know how many watts our 190 watt Audiophile amp sends to the current stock sub? is that 190 watts spec of the Audiophile peak power? they are talking about 4 ohm 2 voice coil is stock but in the end, really recommended not even fussing with it unless you also changed the amp at the same time as the subs are so reliant on the amp, versus speakers, the differenced noticed in swapping out would be negligible given what we are working with as stock. thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 I considered doing this a bit back as I felt similar to you. I am not a bass head, but felt I wanted.. a bit more than the Audiohpile system was coughing up for bass response. So, I talked to Crutchfield (IIRC your not as much of a fan of them as I am), but nevertheless their techs were saying that to do a new after-market sub you would really have to do a new amp. they claim you need at least 100 watts to an after market sub to "keep from damaging them".. anyone know how many watts our 190 watt Audiophile amp sends to the current stock sub? is that 190 watts spec of the Audiophile peak power? they are talking about 4 ohm 2 voice coil is stock but in the end, really recommended not even fussing with it unless you also changed the amp at the same time as the subs are so reliant on the amp, versus speakers, the differenced noticed in swapping out would be negligible given what we are working with as stock. thoughts? It's true that you can damage a sub by using an underpowered amp. You do this by maxing out the amp and pumping a very distorted signal to the sub. I don't think it's very easy to do, but you still end up with crappy sound. Anyway, factory amps are matched to the factory speakers to pump out the most bass using the lowest amount of power. When you add a stiff, power hungry aftermarket sub to the stock amp it might not get enough power and might not be sensitive enough. Rather than buying a weak sub to hopefully match the weak stock amp... I just bought a matching sub/amp pair. If I did not have an aftermarket head unit I would buy a sub/amp pair and run it off the speaker wires that go to the factory sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 It's true that you can damage a sub by using an underpowered amp. You do this by maxing out the amp and pumping a very distorted signal to the sub. I don't think it's very easy to do, but you still end up with crappy sound. Anyway, factory amps are matched to the factory speakers to pump out the most bass using the lowest amount of power. When you add a stiff, power hungry aftermarket sub to the stock amp it might not get enough power and might not be sensitive enough. Rather than buying a weak sub to hopefully match the weak stock amp... I just bought a matching sub/amp pair. If I did not have an aftermarket head unit I would buy a sub/amp pair and run it off the speaker wires that go to the factory sub. As you said, the sound will become distorted, far before the point in which any amp can clip, and IMO our stock amp, with 190 watts, and not that even 190, just 50 watts, is more than enough to produce any decent bass out of almost any subwoofer I know off, it will not make it sound like a rock concert or a night club, but decent and very loud sound, do you know of anybody that can crank the sound in the Edge all the way up, and feel conformtable that way??? Also by the way an stiff power hungry aftermarket sub, is by far what we want in our cars, we need sensitive, very gentle, subwoofers....Also an 8" is not a size to get stiff subwoofers in any case, as they are not bass freaks...a driver that needs lot of power to do their job, is not a good driver at all, it is converting the energy in heat, fighting with the mechanical stress, and IMO not the way to go in any case, unless you want those one note bass jackhammer in the car...sorry if that was what you were looking for, I didn't get the idea right...There are plenty of very gentle sensitive 8" subwoofers around to choose from that will be perfectly happy with the 190watts amp... My home subwoofer amp, is rated to 150 watts and I never crank it over the half of it, and it sdriving a 12" Shiva Avatar driver with 15mm excursion one way, 30mm both ways.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Wow dude I dont think you get what I'm trying to say. I'm done talking to you because you seem to have all the answers, but you still haven't solved your need for a little more bass. Hey Lex if you are gonna be in Orange County any time let me know and I'll show how my setup hits. It's true that the lowest wattage 8" subwoofer that Crutchfield sells requires 100 watts RMS (its a JL W1). The problem is, that this sub is single voice coil and the factory sub is dual voice coil. To get the same amount of power from the factory amp, you'll have to either get a dual voice coil aftermarket sub or attempt to bridge the factory amp (which might mess up the amp if its not designed to bridge the subwoofer channel). Last resort, is to only use one of the two channels coming from the factory amp which will get you even less power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Wow dude I dont think you get what I'm trying to say. I'm done talking to you because you seem to have all the answers, but you still haven't solved your need for a little more bass. Hey Lex if you are gonna be in Orange County any time let me know and I'll show how my setup hits. It's true that the lowest wattage 8" subwoofer that Crutchfield sells requires 100 watts RMS (its a JL W1). The problem is, that this sub is single voice coil and the factory sub is dual voice coil. To get the same amount of power from the factory amp, you'll have to either get a dual voice coil aftermarket sub or attempt to bridge the factory amp (which might mess up the amp if its not designed to bridge the subwoofer channel). Last resort, is to only use one of the two channels coming from the factory amp which will get you even less power. hey thanks... I kind of gave up the idea after talking with CF as I care, but only cared on about a level 3 of 10, so I just moved on. I will be curious to see what/if Kanatronic actually does. BTW, I will be in OC on Sat racing the OC Mud Run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 hey thanks... I kind of gave up the idea after talking with CF as I care, but only cared on about a level 3 of 10, so I just moved on. I will be curious to see what/if Kanatronic actually does. BTW, I will be in OC on Sat racing the OC Mud Run That's cool... I'm not a big bass head either, and real bass heads will tell you that the 400 watts that I'm running really isnt alot. But 400 watts its enough to get really clean sound out of the car for any style of music. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) Wow dude I dont think you get what I'm trying to say. I'm done talking to you because you seem to have all the answers, but you still haven't solved your need for a little more bass. Hey Lex if you are gonna be in Orange County any time let me know and I'll show how my setup hits. It's true that the lowest wattage 8" subwoofer that Crutchfield sells requires 100 watts RMS (its a JL W1). The problem is, that this sub is single voice coil and the factory sub is dual voice coil. To get the same amount of power from the factory amp, you'll have to either get a dual voice coil aftermarket sub or attempt to bridge the factory amp (which might mess up the amp if its not designed to bridge the subwoofer channel). Last resort, is to only use one of the two channels coming from the factory amp which will get you even less power. I do not have all the answers, but in audio in general, even while car audio is not my strongest subject, as I always for some reason find it pretty absurd, misinformed, and on top extremely misleading, beginning from the dealers, and following with the manufacturers, so I neglected it. Those multithousand watts amps just feed by a 12 Volt battery, still do not sound quite right to me, but even though I can give you a few of the answers. And those 400watts inside a car neither, unless deaf, if you know of course what a watt is by definition, and not by a label on a box, I have been dealing with audio gear since I was a little kid, and I still does, and I have read a little bit about that, the only reason that I have not resolved my little problem, if any on the bass dept, is precisely because I want to do it right, and to replace something blindly is just simply silly, and you can easily end with a far worst system, and just because of the lack of info, is that is becoming really hard to replace any driver, as you need to know all the parameters to do a proper substitution, if you are planning to use the stock system of course, in other words, to go and use whatever any dealer reco you, is not what I'm planning ot do... BTW dual voice coil is not intended to be connect as one coil per channel, nor "bridging" any amp, the main purpose of the dual voice coil is to give you more flexibility at the time of using and connecting the driver, as you can use it as single coil, in parallel or in series, and achieve three different driver setups with three different impedances and SPL with one single driver....The stock subwoofer amp, most likely that is mono, and is feeding the same signal in both channels, in paraleel or series, or God knows, regardless of the amount of cables you will see, as mainly all subwoofer amps. BTW if you go to the JL website the current production of the W1 (see this link) could be used from 35 to 60 watts as an optimal range, I'm assuming the older model was pretty similar, so not sure where the hell Cruchtfield got the 100watts minimum mark, other than the only intention of selling you the amp as well, see below... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs_pages.php?page_id=35 Edited July 16, 2009 by Kanatronic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribby2001 Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) Just finished replacing the factory subwoofer with an 8" Kicker Solo Classic. I'm pushing it with a Kicker ZX400.1. It's not a simple operation like the OP mentioned, but its not too bad. I had to make a custom bezel for the new subwoofer's mounting holes. I did a similiar drop-in upgrade to my Mazda Tribute (Ford Escape brother) using a Kicker 6.5" sub and amp. Very much worth the upgrade even with only a 6.5" sub - night and day difference over the stock sub/amp. Where did you mount your ZX400 Amp? What is that finned object behind the sub box? Is that the stock sub amp? - Doesn't look like a ZX400. Edited January 7, 2010 by Tribby2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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