awake33 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 I recently installed a Python 'Responder One' two-way remote start system with a PKFM-PKFORD express kit for the PATS system in my 08 Limited, it works great. Total cost $174. The range is great so far, but I want to test it out and see how close to the 2000ft range it actually gets. It does not like the parking garage at my workplace, I park on the 7th floor and have to be pretty close to the garage when at ground level for it to work. If anyone is thinking about doing this and has questions, I may be able to provide some advice as well as wiring diagrams/location information. All connections were soldered and no vehicle wires were cut (no T-taps, they are bad!). Only 10 wires on the vehicle total, including parking lights. The install was easy, just time consuming stripping insulation from the middle of wires and soldering would have been easier with 3 hands. I still need to get a relay for the parking lights though, since I think they draw more than 10 amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I recently installed a Python 'Responder One' two-way remote start system with a PKFM-PKFORD express kit for the PATS system in my 08 Limited, it works great. Total cost $174. The range is great so far, but I want to test it out and see how close to the 2000ft range it actually gets. It does not like the parking garage at my workplace, I park on the 7th floor and have to be pretty close to the garage when at ground level for it to work. If anyone is thinking about doing this and has questions, I may be able to provide some advice as well as wiring diagrams/location information. All connections were soldered and no vehicle wires were cut (no T-taps, they are bad!). Only 10 wires on the vehicle total, including parking lights. The install was easy, just time consuming stripping insulation from the middle of wires and soldering would have been easier with 3 hands. I still need to get a relay for the parking lights though, since I think they draw more than 10 amps. I could really use any info on this install. I just ordered the same remote start system for my wife's '08 SEL. I still need to get the by-pass module(any recommended sources?). Searching the forum I found wire location/colors for an '07, I'd suspect they'd be the same for the '08; is this correct? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awake33 Posted September 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I could really use any info on this install. I just ordered the same remote start system for my wife's '08 SEL. I still need to get the by-pass module(any recommended sources?). Searching the forum I found wire location/colors for an '07, I'd suspect they'd be the same for the '08; is this correct? TIA No idea on the '07 wires. This is the bypass kit and where I ordered it: Dei PKFM Kit Remote start diagram: As you can see, the majority of the wires are not even used. I removed all unused wires from the molex connectors completely so they are not in the way. Xpresskit notes: I temporarily removed the ignition wires from the Edge's connector and soldered the remote start wires directly to the end OEM clips. Be careful if you choose this method as solder can pool up inside the clip and prevent you from being able to plug it back in, but it can be removed with some solder wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 Thanks. Yep, I ordered the same kit on ebay from a different seller over the weekend. So I guess I just need to access all these wires under the steering wheel? Some of the stuff I found on the 12 volt website said you could hit everything in the kick panel but I've never been able to find the heavy ignition wires for any vehicle anywhere but near the steering shaft. That's a good idea about removing the wires from the connector, in the past I've just bundled them but working in an already tight area they always seem to just get in the way trying to tidy up the install. Any suggestions about removing the plastic under the steering wheel? I haven't looked at it yet but I think I remember reading where someone said it was a PITA with this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awake33 Posted September 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) Yep, the top steering column cover removal was actually the hardest part. It felt like it was going to break, in fact I think I did break one tab. No matter how hard you squeeze all the tabs just don't want to let go at the same time. I prefer a clean install and one that, extenuating circumstances aside, will never fail. So soldering directly to the connectors was the way to go. If you're comfortable with it, everything can be done at the kick panel. There were a few wires for the PATS that I stripped in the middle without cutting and heat-shrink tube was used on all connections for insulation and limiting movement when adjusting the steering tilt/depth. I put zip-ties through the ignition connectors and pinned the ends under my feet to serve as a third hand while soldering and keep solder from flowing into the opening. Edited September 23, 2009 by awake33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSUFetch Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Thanks. Yep, I ordered the same kit on ebay from a different seller over the weekend. So I guess I just need to access all these wires under the steering wheel? Some of the stuff I found on the 12 volt website said you could hit everything in the kick panel but I've never been able to find the heavy ignition wires for any vehicle anywhere but near the steering shaft. That's a good idea about removing the wires from the connector, in the past I've just bundled them but working in an already tight area they always seem to just get in the way trying to tidy up the install. Any suggestions about removing the plastic under the steering wheel? I haven't looked at it yet but I think I remember reading where someone said it was a PITA with this car. I had to remove the panel below the steering wheel (the one your knees would hit in an accident) when I installed a brake controller for my trailer. There are 2 or 3 hex head screws at the bottom of the piece that you need to remove. Then you have to pull the piece at the top. Pull directly out form the dashboard. If you were sitting in the driver's seat, you'd be pulling towards you. There are 2 clips, 1 on each side of the wheel. The clips are prety robust. They aren't like the fragile ones that are used to hold other pieces of interior trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 (edited) Well, I started this install today and ran into a couple problems. Hopefully you can help me out I've got everything wired up and have power but not getting the car to remote start using the transmitter. If I hold the transmitter button for 1-2 seconds I hear 5 sets of clicks out of the python's brain but nothing from the car whatsoever. I'm using method #2 for programming the PKFM(insert each key, wait till the light goes off, go to the next one and then finally remote start the car). The light comes on and then goes off as it should with the keys but nothing with the remote start. Just to make sure I'm using the PKFM correct, other than the D2D hookup, the only wires I'm using are the Green, Pink, and Orange. A couple other wires I couldn't seem to trace down too are the parking light wire and the defog wire for the rear window. Some directions I found say a purple and white wire at the driver's kick panel but everyone purple/white wire I've tested with my mutimeter doesn't show any power when I manually turn on the parking lights. I guess I could see about finding the - parking light wire, but I'd prefer not to have to hook up a relay which is what one set of directions I found said you needed to do using it. Would really appreciate any help/advise you have to offer. You've already been a tremendous help in your above posts...I really appreciate it. Edited October 3, 2009 by GA_RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awake33 Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Well, I started this install today and ran into a couple problems. Hopefully you can help me out I've got everything wired up and have power but not getting the car to remote start using the transmitter. If I hold the transmitter button for 1-2 seconds I hear 5 sets of clicks out of the python's brain but nothing from the car whatsoever. I'm using method #2 for programming the PKFM(insert each key, wait till the light goes off, go to the next one and then finally remote start the car). The light comes on and then goes off as it should with the keys but nothing with the remote start. A couple other wires I couldn't seem to trace down too are the parking light wire and the defog wire for the rear window. Some directions I found say a purple and white wire at the driver's kick panel but everyone purple/white wire I've tested with my mutimeter doesn't show any power when I manually turn on the parking lights. I guess I could see about finding the - parking light wire, but I'd prefer not to have to hook up a relay which is what one set of directions I found said you needed to do using it. Would really appreciate any help/advise you have to offer. You've already been a tremendous help in your above posts...I really appreciate it. Are you using the D2D cable to connect the bypass and remote start together? You only need to connect bypass harness pins 2 (Green), 7 (Pink), 8 (Orange) to the car PATS harness pins 3 (Violet/gray), 4 (yellow/orange), 1 (Blue/brown) respectively. I had to use a relay for the parking lights, the ford system draws more than 10 amps (potentially). I would like to hook up rear defrost and the heated seats, but couldn't narrow down which wires in the car were needed. It took a few tries to program the bypass, and then my car wouldn't start either lol, sorry I don't recall what it was that I overlooked at the time. Just double check all your connections from the beginning and try again. Also, what does the diagnostic LED say? It flashes a code to help you narrow down failed starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Scratch the previous questions about the remote start. I got that all figured out. Could still use some help locating the parking light wire and rear defrost though. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 I had to use a relay for the parking lights, the ford system draws more than 10 amps (potentially). I would like to hook up rear defrost and the heated seats, but couldn't narrow down which wires in the car were needed. Thanks again for all the help. Maybe I'll just leave it as it is rather than hooking up the parking lights. All the lights comes on at night anyhow due to the auto lights and I guess there isn't much need for the parking lights to run just because the vehicle is on. I still need to look through the directions on using the remote start. It was my understanding that it's a 2 way unit but I'm not sure what's confirming the status of the car running or not from the remote. Overall the range seems very acceptable so far and the wife's happy though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 park lights are purple/white in the driver kick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 park lights are purple/white in the driver kick 12V+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA_RR Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 park lights are purple/white in the driver kick 12V+ Yeah I have that info....unfortuantely there are more than one bundles of wire in the kickpanel and more than one purple/white wire. The 2 I did find didn't test anything on the MM turning on the parking lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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