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Stealthbox installed...


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Well... my stealthbox is on the way, very expensive but not having a large box sitting in the back is important to me.

 

Anybody else put one in yet? Just wondering how it sounds, a bit late to ask i guess.

 

I have installed an 12" box (temporary) and sub with aftermarket amp off the stock head unit w/nav, it seems the bass rolloff kills the bass when I turn it up.

 

Does anyone know if the "rolloff" afects all speakers or just the sub? Should I tap the rear speakers instead of using the sub harness in the back?

 

I think an new nav/head unit will be coming next.

Edited by tnugs
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Just for those of you interested...

 

My original thought was to add some nice door speakers and an aftermarket sub to replace the stock 8" but keep the stock navi...

 

well that just wasn't going to work for me, basicaly the front and rears are crossed over from the head unit so tapping into those for the sub wouldn't work, the stock head unit also cuts the bass off when you turn it up, for protection i'm sure.

I see there are units that process the facory signal to stop the bass "roll off" but i'm sceptical about those.

 

So..... I tore it all out and put in an AVIC-F900BT, 682.9cf's in the doors and a JL Audio Stealthbox with a Pioneer 300watt AMP.

 

All I have to say is... WOW! I had the Kappa's hooked up to the stock ford navi unit and the difference is night and day, and thats without the sub!!

 

Throw the stealthbox into the mix and WOW!!! That thing is perfect! great low end, for all music not just bass heavy songs.

Also not so much bass that I sound like a teenager BOOMING through the streets, you can barely here it out side of the vehicle, even when turned up pretty good.

 

Not to mention you can't even see the sub, same location as the stock 8". the amp is under the driverside back seat.

 

It took me the better part of two days to put everything in, i'm sure it can be done MUCH faster but I took my time soldering all the wires

and making everything nice and neat, plus I hooked up a Sirius adaptor and a module to retain the steering wheel controls that works perfect.

 

Needless to say i'll be selling all the stock stuff to offset the $$$, I have no idea what i'll get for it all.

Edited by tnugs
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hmmm..... I figured they put the lift gate motor and other stuff in there. I will move it if there is enough room. Thanks for the heads up!!!

 

will there be enough room even with the power liftgate option? Would like to know before unhooking everything. Thanks!!

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Just pulled the driverside not nearly enough room for the amp I have, oh well.

The back seat goes down just fine, the amp just had to mounted a bit forward so the

bar misses it; when it moves forward and down.

 

Thanks for the thought though.

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Just for those of you interested...

 

My original thought was to add some nice door speakers and an aftermarket sub to replace the stock 8" but keep the stock navi...

 

well that just wasn't going to work for me, basicaly the front and rears are crossed over from the head unit so tapping into those for the sub wouldn't work, the stock head unit also cuts the bass off when you turn it up, for protection i'm sure.

I see there are units that process the facory signal to stop the bass "roll off" but i'm sceptical about those.

 

So..... I tore it all out and put in an AVIC-F900BT, 682.9cf's in the doors and a JL Audio Stealthbox with a Pioneer 300watt AMP.

 

All I have to say is... WOW! I had the Kappa's hooked up to the stock ford navi unit and the difference is night and day, and thats without the sub!!

 

Throw the stealthbox into the mix and WOW!!! That thing is perfect! great low end, for all music not just bass heavy songs.

Also not so much bass that I sound like a teenager BOOMING through the streets, you can barely here it out side of the vehicle, even when turned up pretty good.

 

Not to mention you can't even see the sub, same location as the stock 8". the amp is under the driverside back seat.

 

It took me the better part of two days to put everything in, i'm sure it can be done MUCH faster but I took my time soldering all the wires

and making everything nice and neat, plus I hooked up a Sirius adaptor and a module to retain the steering wheel controls that works perfect.

 

Needless to say i'll be selling all the stock stuff to offset the $$$, I have no idea what i'll get for it all.

 

So you're saying that if I wanted to convert the speaker outs on my factory headunit to RCA's and run the entire system off an amp that the HU's crossover will still interfere???? If I read that correctly then this is highly disappointing.

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So you're saying that if I wanted to convert the speaker outs on my factory headunit to RCA's and run the entire system off an amp that the HU's crossover will still interfere???? If I read that correctly then this is highly disappointing.

 

I can strongly recommend either an MTX Re-Q or Re-Q5.

 

I just installed a Re-Q (L/R/S outs) in the wife's Edge to add an amp and sub, see http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3421. And I've had a Re-Q5 (F&R L/R/S outs + iPod in) in my '02 300M for 14 months running about 2KW of amps and speakers - it most definitely hits!

 

The Re-Qs compensates for both factory head unit EQs beautifully, at least my ears think so... In my experience, you MUST disable any EQ in the amps and let the Re-Q do it's job. Check http://www.reqsound.com/ for more details.

Edited by beezerk
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I can strongly recommend either an MTX Re-Q or Re-Q5.

 

I just installed a Re-Q (L/R/S outs) in the wife's Edge to add an amp and sub, see http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3421. And I've had a Re-Q5 (F&R L/R/S outs + iPod in) in my '02 300M for 14 months running about 2KW of amps and speakers - it most definitely hits!

 

The Re-Qs compensates for both factory head unit EQs beautifully, at least my ears think so... In my experience, you MUST disable any EQ in the amps and let the Re-Q do it's job. Check http://www.reqsound.com/ for more details.

 

Whew...Just took a deep breath. This is promising. If it wasn't for sync I'd just get an AVIC Pioneer system and be happy but Sync just offers too much to throw it away.

 

Can you verify that I wouldn't really need the Re-Q5...just the RE-Q. I have the same speakers all around so I wouldn't think I needed to get so granular. The Re-Q should handle everything in the car, right?

 

Also, did you have a factory sub? I have a 4channel amp to power the speakers but was going to leave the factory sub on it's own. It's an experiment but I dont want to re-buy everything.

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Whew...Just took a deep breath. This is promising. If it wasn't for sync I'd just get an AVIC Pioneer system and be happy but Sync just offers too much to throw it away.

 

Can you verify that I wouldn't really need the Re-Q5...just the RE-Q. I have the same speakers all around so I wouldn't think I needed to get so granular. The Re-Q should handle everything in the car, right?

 

Also, did you have a factory sub? I have a 4channel amp to power the speakers but was going to leave the factory sub on it's own. It's an experiment but I dont want to re-buy everything.

 

You're doing the opposite of my upgrade (factory head driving BA 5x7s with an MTX amp/Kicker sub via the Re-Q). My stock system was sub-less, so I can't offer an opinion on the merits of Ford's...

 

If you want to maintain your L/R balance & F/R fade capability and keep the install straightforward, I recommend the 5 channel Re-Q5, it's about ~$20 more than the Re-Q street (got both of mine at millionbuy on eBay - good etailer).

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