boostededge Posted Thursday at 10:36 PM Report Share Posted Thursday at 10:36 PM (edited) Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here. The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out. Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them. The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically. Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up. Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend. I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it. In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk. Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine. All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum. And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period. Edited Thursday at 11:05 PM by boostededge 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wubster100 Posted yesterday at 01:24 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:24 AM Great write up! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Steve Posted yesterday at 05:10 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 05:10 AM When you pull the cooler out, keep in mind that there is a fiber gasket at the end of the cooler along with another O-ring. If that comes off, then you might end up with a fiber gasket floating around in the PTU. See pics: 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostededge Posted yesterday at 05:26 AM Author Report Share Posted yesterday at 05:26 AM (edited) Here's to hoping that end o-ring holds that fiber gasket on. I would have removed the cooler completely but the subframe was in the way. Maybe if the exhaust gets dropped you can swing the metal element down. Edited yesterday at 05:26 AM by boostededge 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STBEAST Posted yesterday at 08:54 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 08:54 AM Exactly the way I would do it. You did a great job on the pictures too. Thank you! I would bet the fiber gasket stays in its place if you pop the cooler straight out, or you wouldn't be able to re install the cooler as it would block the passage. Ford was hoping no one would come up with an easy solution so they could sell a new ptu when they explode right out of warranty! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostededge Posted yesterday at 04:22 PM Author Report Share Posted yesterday at 04:22 PM 7 hours ago, STBEAST said: Exactly the way I would do it. You did a great job on the pictures too. Thank you! I would bet the fiber gasket stays in its place if you pop the cooler straight out, or you wouldn't be able to re install the cooler as it would block the passage. Ford was hoping no one would come up with an easy solution so they could sell a new ptu when they explode right out of warranty! My thought and hope as well. When I reinserted the cooler it "felt" good and "clicked/plopped" into place. A feeling I would get if an o-ring connection was seated. At least that's what I tell myself 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STBEAST Posted 8 hours ago Report Share Posted 8 hours ago Not to get off track here, but did you notice the electric motor in line to one of the cooing hoses attached to the cooler? I was more curious about it and one day I climbed under the car right after I shut it off. I heard the electric motor running, circulating coolant through the PTU. Hot coolant is circulated through the PTU after shutting down. I don't have any info at what point the electric motor turns on and off and what temperature, but if the Hot coolant is used to cool the PTU, that thing must get pretty darn hot! Interesting... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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