How To: Install a Class III hitch and Brake Controller

[PSUFetch]

This past weekend, I installed a Curt class III hitch and a Prodigy Brake controller.

 

The model number for the hitch is 13060 and fits on the vehicle with the factory Class II hitch still installed. There are other posts that detail the installation of the hitch, so I won't go into too much detail here, but I did want to confirm that it does fit with the factory hitch. There are pictures below.

 

A few things that I learned about the install:

1. The instructions say that you should use a 17/32" drill bit when installing the hitch. I was unable to locate one and I checked 4 different hardware stores. A 1/2" bit works just fine.

2. The installation was surprisingly easy. It took about 1 hour and that was because I fished the bolts through the wrong holes in the frame and had to fish them back out the end of the frame rails. Without that mistake, 45 minutes would definitely be doable.

3. I had some help holding the hitch while I got the nuts started, but other than than, it's a 1 person job.

4. I used ramps to lift the rear of the car so I'd have more room to work. When I dropped the exhaust out of the way, I used a jack to support the weight of the mufflers so that I didn't overstretch the rubber hanger in the center of the car.

 

 

The brake controller installation wasn't too bad. By far, the worst part was figuring out how to run the wiring from the battery to underneath the dash. There was no obvious hole that I could find.

 

I wound up poking a small hole in the grommet that surrounds the steering column and fishing the wiring through it. Here's what it looks like with the plastic trim piece removed.

 

With the trim piece in place, the wires are routed up into the dash where they can be zip tied out of the way.

 

 

I needed to run 3 wires to the controller....12 volt positive, 12 volt neutral (ground), and 12 volts back to the trailer plug for the trailer brakes. I used 12 gauge wire per the brake controller's instructions. Since I decided to route the wiring under the car rather than under the interior trim pieces., I used wire type THHW/THHN/MTW which is water resistant and also gas and and oil resistant.

 

The 12 volt positive comes off the battery and through a 20 amp self-resetting circuit breaker. I tapped off a terminal that is located under the lid of the fuse panel that is located under the hood. I mounted the circuit breaker with self-tapping screws. I wish i had chosen a different location because it was difficult to get my drill in the location i chose. I had to use my right angle drill to install the breaker.

 

 

I took the neutral tap off the ground point near the battery.

 

 

In addition to the 12 volt positive and neutral, you also need to connect the controller to a source that is hot when the brakes are applied. I found that the easiest spot for this tap was on the switch that is located on the brake pedal. The switch is the blue and gray piece below. You can see the plunger for the switch that is pressing against the brown circle that is attached to the brake pedal. Using my mulitmeter, I found that the correct wire is the purple and white one that is on the left of the plug in the picture below.

 

 

I used a "Scotch-Lock" style wire tap to tap into the brake signal wire and connect it to the wiring harness that came with the Prodigy. The Prodigy also comes with butt connectors to make the other 3 connections. Below is the harness installed. You can see how I routed the red and white wires up and over to the knee panel of the dash so that they stay away form the steering column.

 

 

After securing all the wiring under the dash, I re-installed the knee panel.

 

 

I wrapped the harness in black electrical tape to hide the wiring and ran them up to the controller. I mounted the controller so that it was easily accessible, but still out of the way. The instructions say that it should be mounted between 0 and 70 degrees from vertical for optimal performance. The knee panel is a perfect spot.

 

I used this plug to adapt from the 4 pin plug that comes with the factory tow package. I bought it from Tractor Supply Company. Adapter Plug

 

It takes the work out of connecting for brake lights and turn signals. I used one of the screws that holds up the heat shield for my grounding point at the rear of the car.

 

I then cut a hole to mount the plug. the plug came with self tapping screws, but I found that they easily ripped out of the soft black plastic. I bought stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers for a more secure mount.

 

 

 

Here is the best overall picture that I have.

 

 

And Finally, with the trailer hooked up.

 

 

 

As I said before, the hardest part for me was routing the wires. I used wire loom to protect the wiring as it runs underneath the car. I think this was the best way to run the wires since I don't have the patience to carefully pry the interior trim pieces off. I'm happy with the way it worked out. I was unsure of how the 2 receivers would look, but I don't think it's too bad. Certainly not bad enough for my to take the bumper cover off and cut the factory hitch off.

 

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to answer them to the best of my ability. Hopefully this helps someone's installation go a little easier.

Edited March 24, 2009 by PSUFetch

[Lex Talionis]

great write up! great photos.

 

I installed a Curt hitch a year ago, but shocked to see that the fit just 'happens' to fit so perfectly snug under the stock hitch.

[weasel]

That's pretty cool. I have the same Curt hitch. The fact that it fits over the factory one is neat. You could use the factory one for accessories ( ie. a bike rack ). I like that adapter plug. Have to keep that in mind ...

[rhino260]

I pulled a bonehead! There was a Draw Tite hitch for an Edge on Ebay yesterday for $60.00 included shipping.

No hardware either, but what the hell.

Can you say dumb ass?

[PSUFetch]

It shouldn't be too hard to get the correct hardware for the hitch. I would imagine that the hardest thing to find would be the rectangular washers that you fish into the frame rails.

[airstream]

PSUFetch, I have a question on towing your trailer. I have a 40 year old Airstream Caravel (17') which weighs a little less than 3000# When I tow it with my 2007 Edge with AWD and the factory tow package, if the outside temperature is above about 85 deg, the AC compressor starts to cut out. I wondered what your experience has been. I live in Michigan, not a particularly hot or hilly place, and I was surprised at this problem. The dealer says the AC checks out OK. I'm retired from Ford, so I contacted the trailer tow guy there, and he said my trailer is either too heavy or has too much frontal area. Your trailer looks to be about the same size as mine. Do you know what it weighs? I'm suspicious that I have a sensor somewhere that is out of calibration and is shutting off the AC too soon.

[PSUFetch]

The "dry weight" of the trailer is listed at 3000 lbs, but I don't believe that includes options such as the refrigerator or the A/C. I'm almost positive that I'm over the 3500lb weight limit when I have it loaded for camping. I thought about stopping at a weigh station and finding out how much the trailer and the Edge/trailer combo weighs. For me, ignorance is bliss at this point. I also don't plan on towing the trailer very often, and the terrain isn't very hilly either.

 

I haven't noticed the A/C in the Egde cutting out, but I also haven't towed it in really warm weather yet. I live in Eastern Pennsylvania, and I bought it for tailgating at Penn State football games. I took it to their spring scrimmage at the end of April. I don't have plans to use it until the season starts again in the beginning of September.

 

I'm guessing that the A/C is cutting out to reduce the load on the engine as a type of over-heating prevention. That's just a guess though. You might try looking at some F-150 forums to see if anyone else is reporting the A/C shutting down in warmer temps while towing heavy loads. Unfortunately, the Edge forum isn't the greatest resource for towing since it's not a very common thing with these vehicles.

 

Good luck.

[Rash]

The "dry weight" of the trailer is listed at 3000 lbs, but I don't believe that includes options such as the refrigerator or the A/C. I'm almost positive that I'm over the 3500lb weight limit when I have it loaded for camping. I thought about stopping at a weigh station and finding out how much the trailer and the Edge/trailer combo weighs. For me, ignorance is bliss at this point. I also don't plan on towing the trailer very often, and the terrain isn't very hilly either.

 

I haven't noticed the A/C in the Egde cutting out, but I also haven't towed it in really warm weather yet. I live in Eastern Pennsylvania, and I bought it for tailgating at Penn State football games. I took it to their spring scrimmage at the end of April. I don't have plans to use it until the season starts again in the beginning of September.

 

I'm guessing that the A/C is cutting out to reduce the load on the engine as a type of over-heating prevention. That's just a guess though. You might try looking at some F-150 forums to see if anyone else is reporting the A/C shutting down in warmer temps while towing heavy loads. Unfortunately, the Edge forum isn't the greatest resource for towing since it's not a very common thing with these vehicles.

 

Good luck.

 

I'm thinking you should get a transmission fluid thermometer on there...

 

cause it's gonna heat up..

 

and change your transmission oil every 20 000 miles ...

 

:wacko:

[rpeterslll]

Thanks for your detailed installation process.

 

I am looking at towing a travel trailer just like your's in the picture. Its a 24' Jayco eagle super lite. dry weight is 3720lbs and a hitch weight of 465lbs.

 

What are the weight specifications of your trailer? Do you think I would have any problem towing a trailer with a Curt Class III hitch and electronic braking?

 

Thanks,

Rob

[PSUFetch]

Rob,

 

I never had me trailer weighed for sure, but the dry weight is approx 3000 lbs. I don't know if that includes the optional items in the trailer (refrigerator, microwave, A/C). The tongue weight is listed around 390 lbs, but again, I never checked it.

 

That being said, I would never tow this trailer without a weight distributing hitch. When I 1st hooked up the trailer, I did not hook up the weight distributing bars and the back end of the Edge was very low. I'm sure I would have hit the bump stops in the rear when driving. After hooking up the bars, the difference in the fender gap is between 1 and 2 inches inch form front to rear. It's been a while since I measured, so I don't remember for sure. That seems like a pretty hight tongue weight.

 

The electric brakes do a good job of slowing the trailer down. I increased the level of boost on the brake controller so it gave a little better initial bite when I step on the brake. It makes the brakes feel alittle overboosted at barking lot speeds, but is not noticable once you are moving.

 

I'm probably pretty close to your dry weight (if not over) when I'm fully loaded with water and supplies. You'll be well over 4000 lbs when you fill up your water tanks and add in enough supplies for a weekend. Plus you'll have to factor in the weight of you and your passengers and the fully loaded trailer in the overall gross vehicle weight which is on a label that is visible when you open the driver's door.

 

I can't really answer your question because I dont know exactly how heavy my trailer is, or how heavy your trailer will be when loaded, so I can't make a good comparison. Also, I have no idea if I'm doing any damage to the Edge by towing this trailer. I do plan to change my transmission fluid on the severe schedule, and I'm running synthetic oil during the towing season.

[rpeterslll]

Thanks for your input.

 

For the record I do have a weight distributing system with my trailer which I plan on using. I plan on not traveling with any fluids in the tanks since I am mostly camping at property in which my parents own, everything we need is already there. So I strictly plan on keeping the camper as empty as possible when I haul it. Just a couple suitcases mainly. Anything else we need can be purchased when we get to the property.

 

 

Thanks again,

Rob

[IAMWILL]

PSUFetch, I have a question on towing your trailer. I have a 40 year old Airstream Caravel (17') which weighs a little less than 3000# When I tow it with my 2007 Edge with AWD and the factory tow package, if the outside temperature is above about 85 deg, the AC compressor starts to cut out. I wondered what your experience has been. I live in Michigan, not a particularly hot or hilly place, and I was surprised at this problem. The dealer says the AC checks out OK. I'm retired from Ford, so I contacted the trailer tow guy there, and he said my trailer is either too heavy or has too much frontal area. Your trailer looks to be about the same size as mine. Do you know what it weighs? I'm suspicious that I have a sensor somewhere that is out of calibration and is shutting off the AC too soon.

 

The manual states that the a/c will cut out when towing a trailer.

[RaulB]

this is an old thread but i had a question to see if someone could answer it... can i install one of these hitches on my 2010 Edge that does not have the tow package? and do you guys think a small 14ft travel trailer (dry weight 2500 lbs) is asking too much of it? would only be a few times a month but some of our camping spots is about 45min up hill.... anything else i would need to buy like the larger radiator?

 

thanks for the help

 

-Raul

[PSUFetch]

You can definitely install the hitch regardless of having the tow package or not. As for towing 2500 pounds, the manual states that the max towing is 1500 (i believe) if you don't have the towing package. It's a judgement call if you want to tow your trailer or not. You'll have to factor in terrain and frequency of towing to make a descision.