Just installed a 2" reciver trailer hitch. (Picture)

[edging]

I just installed a trailer hitch on my 08 Edge in my driveway. I purchased it on line from etrailer. I have a canoe w/trailer as well as a bike rack. So I'll get alot of use out of it.

 

Edited March 23, 2009 by edging

[Jeffski]

I would like to do the same thing shortly. Can you tell us what brand of hitch you used and how hard/easy it was to install? I have the instructions for the Curt hitch and you have to fish the bolts into the frame. I have crawled under the car and can easily see where the hitch mounts, but I don't see any opening to fish the bolts thru.

Thanks for any details you can provide.

[edging]

I would like to do the same thing shortly. Can you tell us what brand of hitch you used and how hard/easy it was to install? I have the instructions for the Curt hitch and you have to fish the bolts into the frame. I have crawled under the car and can easily see where the hitch mounts, but I don't see any opening to fish the bolts thru.

Thanks for any details you can provide.

The brand is called Hidden Hitch and it wasent easy getting my big fingers into the tiny space in the end of the frame rail. All in all it took about 2 1/2 hours to install . Definitely well worth it !

[Lex Talionis]

I would like to do the same thing shortly. Can you tell us what brand of hitch you used and how hard/easy it was to install? I have the instructions for the Curt hitch and you have to fish the bolts into the frame. I have crawled under the car and can easily see where the hitch mounts, but I don't see any opening to fish the bolts thru.

Thanks for any details you can provide.

 

did you read this thread? details on curt install.

 

There are a number of threads here on install, and the Curt one is pretty straight forward as many of us have installed it. but you will have to drill 2 extra holes as Curt provides a 6 bolt setup whereas most others only use the existing 4 bolt holes in the frame.

[PSUFetch]

I installed a Curt on our Edge and I fished the bolts through the end of the frame rails. It's a little tight to get your hand in there, but the bumper cover is flexable and it does work. It was surprisingly easy to do.

[DD 430]

I've just installed a Hidden Hitch as well. This is the third HH that I've used over the years. The first on the old Astro Van, the second on my wife's '08 CX 7 and now this one on my '08 Edge. The first two were very easy to install. The one on the Edge was a little more difficult due to the need to fish the bolt in through the end of the frame rails. Not too bad, though.

 

The reason that I used the Hidden Hitch were two-fold.

 

First, it has a 2" receiver and I have a lot of accessories for that size unit.

 

The second reason is this: the Hidden Hitch comes with two through-drilled holes in the receiver. The larger hole is used to simply 'pin' the tow bar into the receiver. A special 'pin' is made for the HH - that is U-shaped. The larger diameter portion of the pin simply attaches the bar to the receiver. The U-portion of the pin 'wraps' back and is placed into the smaller of the two receiver holes. The entire set-up is held on with a nut rather than with a cotter pin. The purpose for the nut is to allow the user to really 'tighten' the entire unit.

 

Hitches are simply fabricated, they are not machined. Consequently, there is a little bit of 'slop' built into them. In addition to using the hitch for a bike rack I also use it to pull a Kendon tip-up motorcycle trailer. The 'slop' on a normal setup (after a 10-hour trip) really begins to jangle my nerves. This U-shaped pin that I use largely stops this by almost making the tow bar/receiver unit one piece.

 

By the way, the pin also has a lock that slips over the end and is keyed for security.

[carbonedge+]

DD 430: do you have a picture of the 'second reason' using the 'special pin'??? I have a Draw Tite that looks just like this HH and has the 2 holes in the recevier (one larger than the other) and the rattle/slop does getting get old quick and I would be interested in this setup you are referring to to eliminate all that...

 

Thanks,

 

is this it?

Edited May 6, 2009 by carbonedge+

[DD 430]

DD 430: do you have a picture of the 'second reason' using the 'special pin'??? I have a Draw Tite that looks just like this HH and has the 2 holes in the recevier (one larger than the other) and the rattle/slop does getting get old quick and I would be interested in this setup you are referring to to eliminate all that...

 

Thanks,

 

is this it?

 

 

Carbonedge,

 

Yes sir, that's the piece. I didn't know that Draw Tite used the same 'two hole' set up. The anti-rattle piece works great. The only improvement that I could suggest would be to use two nuts to tighten the piece - one nut is used as a 'jamb' nut against the one that actually holds the unit together. Also, make sure that you use the cylindrical lock as a failsafe/anti-theft device.

 

Another anti-rattle idea is a shim device that you can see at the followng website: http://www.hitchshim.com/index-1.html.

 

I'm going to wire the hitch today (now that the rain has finally stopped). Have you wired yours? If so, how did you 'power' the thing? Did you run a hot wire back fro the battery? I'm tempted to tap into the accessory port that is located on the panel on the driver's side rear of the cargo compartment.

[Jeffski]

I ended up with the Curt hitch that is highly recommended on this site. It worked great. Fit was perfect and was easy to install. I have not wired for a trailer yet as I'm still deciding whether to go with a kit or try to use the "supplied" connector. I have read you need to add three relays and fuses to turn it on...but am reluctent to pay $25 to 30 for each relay. Hoping to find the OEM number and buy them from the manufacture.

[DD 430]

Jeff, I just completed the wiring installation using the kit that I purchased with the hitch from etrailer. The kit took some 'studying' to make sense of things. First, remove the 'ground' (negative connection) on the battery.

 

Essentially, it's a matter of removing both tail lights. The lights are held in using two 8mm bolts that are on the tailgate side of the units. The lights have to be sort of 'wiggled' straight out from the body and they have two what are termed 'locator' pins on the outboard side that complete their attachment to the car.

 

Remove the rear carpeting (it's easy as it is attached to the floor and it just lifts out). Remove the two black foam inserts that surround the spare tire. (They, too, just lift out.) I also removed the spare tire to give myself more room. Now remove the plastic threshold. (It is clipped into the body and is simply lifted up to remove.) Now, remove the four plastic fasteners (there are two on each side) that hold the side trim panels to the floor. Next, gently pull on the driver's side trim panel - it's also clipped in - so it'll 'snap' out. I did not remove mine completely - just the rear - I left it attached on the front. Repeat with the passenger's side.

 

Now, push the grommets that contain the side, tail, and backup lights out of the body. Use a very sharp knife or razor blade to split the grommets longitudinally. This really takes some care since there is a load of electrical tape on both the wires and the grommets.

 

The wiring harness essentially has five major sections: driver's side, passanger side, power, ground. and a four-wire - flat hitch connector.

 

It's a matter of removing the car's wiring connections to the tail lights (the 'large' bulbs) and connecting the driver's and passanger's side of the new wiring harness. It's a little confusing but, as I say, study it for a bit and it'll make sense to you. Then, replace the now-sliced grommets over the wires on both side and reinsert them into the body so that the wires dangle on the outside. I used a shot of clear silicone caulk on both grommets in order to seal the 'slices'. Now you can reinstall the tail lights.

 

There is a white ground wire on the driver's side that can now be connected to the body. (There is an existing 'ground' connection with a couple of black wire next the taillights. The white ground can be attached to the same location.)

 

The kit comes with a very long wire that is intended to be attached to the battery. In my estimation, that is a waste of time and energy. The system is looking for 12V power from a power source that has a high enough amperage. It doesn't care where it comes from.

 

Here's what I used: On the driver's side rear panel there is an accessory outlet that remans 'hot' whether the car is 'on' or 'off'. It's really a cigarette lighter outlet (not politically correct but that's what it is!) I clipped the yellow and red striped wire and soldered the power wire from the new wiring harness to that wire with a 10A fuse in line. (The rear outlet still works when the wires are put back together.)

 

Now, it's a matter of taking care of the four-wired flat hitch connector: There is a grommet in the floor of the car near the threshold that contains a bundle of wires. That grommet needs to be pulled into the car and split as was done with the tail light grommets. Once done, the hitch wire can be pushed down and 'threaded' to the hitch. Now, the grommet can be replaced and 'siliconed'.

 

I used a short length of split, flexible conduit that I bought at Home Depot to enclose the hitch wires. I also used an ABS 'box' that I purchased from etrailer (that I'd attached the hitch) in which I placed the connector in order to protect it when it's not in use.

 

I also shot some silicone into the back of the box in order seal it to the weather.

 

All-in-all, it took me about 3 hours to install the wiring. It's a bit tedious but not too bad.

 

I'm not sure what the relays are that you mentioned - the wiring from etrailer didn't require that I use any.

Edited May 6, 2009 by DD 430

[carbonedge+]

Carbonedge,

 

Yes sir, that's the piece. I didn't know that Draw Tite used the same 'two hole' set up. The anti-rattle piece works great. The only improvement that I could suggest would be to use two nuts to tighten the piece - one nut is used as a 'jamb' nut against the one that actually holds the unit together. Also, make sure that you use the cylindrical lock as a failsafe/anti-theft device.

 

Another anti-rattle idea is a shim device that you can see at the followng website: http://www.hitchshim.com/index-1.html.

 

I'm going to wire the hitch today (now that the rain has finally stopped). Have you wired yours? If so, how did you 'power' the thing? Did you run a hot wire back fro the battery? I'm tempted to tap into the accessory port that is located on the panel on the driver's side rear of the cargo compartment.

Thanks for the tips. As for the wiring, I had it done by a local trailer and hitch shop. At the time, there was no wiring harness available (it was Summer of '07; the Edge was still new to aftermarket accessories), but DrawTite had one in the works. They did have to run a lead to the battery, I do know that.

 

Thanks again, and enjoy that hitch. It's been a life saver many of times for either my utility trailer or cargo basket.