New 2008 Edge Limited owner... Almost ;-)

[NikonJeff]

Hi everyone! I have to say this forum has been very helpful making my decision for a new car. I do have one burning question about the quality and the maintenance of a black paint edge versus the vapor silver. My local dealer has one of each in a 2008 leftover and personally I like the looks of the black paint over the vapor silver but have been told that the black paint doesn't hide damage as well and never quite cures to a super hard finish... Any insight on this?

 

The deal that I'm getting is a 2008 limited with the following options:

Navigation

Power lift gate

BAMR (yes i've actually read the posts!)

Interior appearance package

20" wheels/sport suspension

All weather mats

 

Sticker was $38,660 I got it for $30,500 (new not demo)

I also opted for a 7 year/100,000 Premium Care warranty for $1590.

How did I do???

 

I can change from the vapor silver to black tomorrow if it makes sense since they're both the same price... Any and all feedback would be appreciated and I look forward to many good posts on the forum!

Jeff Guntert

Schenectady, NY

[bbf2530]

Hi everyone! I have to say this forum has been very helpful making my decision for a new car. I do have one burning question about the quality and the maintenance of a black paint edge versus the vapor silver. My local dealer has one of each in a 2008 leftover and personally I like the looks of the black paint over the vapor silver but have been told that the black paint doesn't hide damage as well and never quite cures to a super hard finish... Any insight on this?

 

The deal that I'm getting is a 2008 limited with the following options:

Navigation

Power lift gate

BAMR (yes i've actually read the posts!)

Interior appearance package

20" wheels/sport suspension

All weather mats

 

Sticker was $38,660 I got it for $30,500 (new not demo)

I also opted for a 7 year/100,000 Premium Care warranty for $1590.

How did I do???

 

I can change from the vapor silver to black tomorrow if it makes sense since they're both the same price... Any and all feedback would be appreciated and I look forward to many good posts on the forum!

Jeff Guntert

Schenectady, NY

 

Hi Jeff. :D You have been told a mixture of truth and fiction. First, the advice that "black paint doesn't hide damage as well" is correct. However, whoever told you that it "never quite cures to a super hard finish" was incorrect.

 

Let's deal with the false one quickly. The black paint on any vehicle is already fully hardened and cured before it ever leaves the factory. The finish is as hard and cured as any other color. But since black shows scratches easier (due to it's dark mirror like finish) some people mistakenly think it is because the paint is "softer". That is not true. It is the dark color that shows scratches more readily. Simple as that.

 

As far as hiding "damage": Due to the reflective finish (like a dark mirror) of black automotive paint, it shows scratches and dirt much more apparently than lighter colors. Scratches on cars show up as light colored marks, so they show easier on a black car. If you wash and wax a black car, within hours you will be able to see the fine layer of dust already settling on it. According to where you live, in the summertime you will see the layer of green pollen form on your car within hours after you wash and wax it.

 

The fact that the new black paints on many Fords is now a "Metallic Black Clearcoat" (like the "Tuxedo Black Metallic Clearcoat"), as opposed to a simple "Black Clearcoat" (with no metallic flakes), may help to break up that mirror like finish and hide dust a little better. I have not seen enough of them yet to be abloe to develop an opinion.

 

No car paint color looks better or more elegant than black when it is clean (that is why expensive limousines are almost always black). But you have to be willing to do the necessary work to keep it clean. Anyone who does not know how to properly wash and detail a car and is not willing to learn how should purchase another color (unless they do not care that much about how their car looks).

 

And in case you were wondering, since 1981 at least one of my cars have always been black. So I do speak from experience. I am a fanatic about car care, so I keep my cars very clean and waxed.

 

As far as the price you received: Since you do not say, we have no idea how much Incentive and Rebate Cash that price includes, if it is the price before or after all Taxes, Fees and Charges, have been added in, etc etc.

 

For example, Incentives and Rebates vary by region. Therefore, if that price includes only $2,000 of Incentive Cash, it is a pretty good price. However, if that price includes $5,000-$6,000 of Incentive Cash, it is not a very good price. As you can see, without a lot more information there is no way for anyone to give an accurate answer as to how good a price it is or is not. Anyone who says otherwise is simply flipping a coin and taking a guess.

 

Essentially it comes down to this: If you are happy with the price, it is good. If you think it is a bit high, you should do some more negotiating. Have you priced equivalent vehicles at more than one Dealership? That is what I would recommend.

 

Don't forget to come back and show us some pictures once you decide on a color!

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

Edited March 14, 2009 by bbf2530

[NikonJeff]

Hi Jeff. :D You have been told a mixture of truth and fiction. First, the advice that "black paint doesn't hide damage as well" is correct. However, whoever told you that it "never quite cures to a super hard finish" was incorrect.

 

Let's deal with the false one quickly. The black paint on any vehicle is already fully hardened and cured before it ever leaves the factory. The finish is as hard and cured as any other color. But since black shows scratches easier (due to it's dark mirror like finish) some people mistakenly think it is because the paint is "softer". That is not true. It is the dark color that shows scratches more readily. Simple as that.

 

As far as hiding "damage": Due to the reflective finish (like a dark mirror) of black automotive paint, it shows scratches and dirt much more apparently than lighter colors. Scratches on cars show up as light colored marks, so they show easier on a black car. If you wash and wax a black car, within hours you will be able to see the fine layer of dust already settling on it. According to where you live, in the summertime you will see the layer of green pollen form on your car within hours after you wash and wax it.

 

The fact that the new black paints on many Fords is now a "Metallic Black Clearcoat" (like the "Tuxedo Black Metallic Clearcoat"), as opposed to a simple "Black Clearcoat" (with no metallic flakes), may help to break up that mirror like finish and hide dust a little better. I have not seen enough of them yet to be abloe to develop an opinion.

 

No car paint color looks better or more elegant than black when it is clean (that is why expensive limousines are almost always black). But you have to be willing to do the necessary work to keep it clean. Anyone who does not know how to properly wash and detail a car and is not willing to learn how should purchase another color (unless they do not care that much about how their car looks).

 

And in case you were wondering, since 1981 at least one of my cars have always been black. So I do speak from experience. I am a fanatic about car care, so I keep my cars very clean and waxed.

 

As far as the price you received: Since you do not say, we have no idea how much Incentive and Rebate Cash that price includes, if it is the price before or after all Taxes, Fees and Charges, have been added in, etc etc.

 

For example, Incentives and Rebates vary by region. Therefore, if that price includes only $2,000 of Incentive Cash, it is a pretty good price. However, if that price includes $5,000-$6,000 of Incentive Cash, it is not a very good price. As you can see, without a lot more information there is no way for anyone to give an accurate answer as to how good a price it is or is not. Anyone who says otherwise is simply flipping a coin and taking a guess.

 

Essentially it comes down to this: If you are happy with the price, it is good. If you think it is a bit high, you should do some more negotiating. Have you priced equivalent vehicles at more than one Dealership? That is what I would recommend.

 

Don't forget to come back and show us some pictures once you decide on a color!

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

 

Thanks for the information on the paint. I don't have a lot of experience in car detailing to be honest, so it may make more sense for me to get the vapor silver although I do love the Edge in black... I've never owned a black car either.

 

In regards to the price, right now Ford is offering two different rebates on 2008 leftovers here in upstate New York. $3500 + $2000 so the dealer has kicked in another $2660 in additional discounts to make the final price $30500.

Jeff

[akirby]

Thanks for the information on the paint. I don't have a lot of experience in car detailing to be honest, so it may make more sense for me to get the vapor silver although I do love the Edge in black... I've never owned a black car either.

 

In regards to the price, right now Ford is offering two different rebates on 2008 leftovers here in upstate New York. $3500 + $2000 so the dealer has kicked in another $2660 in additional discounts to make the final price $30500.

Jeff

 

$2660 off msrp plus the rebates sounds like a decent price.

 

We chose the White Chocolate (might be a different name now but same basic color) over the Vapor Silver. It's probably even lower maintenance than the silver and looks great. It's a tri-coat finish and the depth is amazing.

 

You don't need special skills to take care of a black car - you just have to use the right equipment and technique, and you'll have to wash it more often.

 

Use car soap (not dishwashing soap) and rinse the car thoroughly to remove as much dirt and dust as possible (top down). NEVER use a sponge. NEVER. That is what leaves the spiderweb scratches you see so often. NEVER let the dealer wash it - they typically use sponges or other improper tools that leave tiny swirls and scratches. Avoid the cheap car washes - have it washed by hand at a good shop or use the high end car washes that use soft cloth strips. This is usually where the expensive cars go.

 

Use a wool mitt (or I've heard microfiber towels work, too). The idea is to remove the bad stuff and keep it off the surface of the mitt or towel so it doesn't get rubbed into the paint. Rinse OFTEN. Do not use a chamois or towel to dry it unless you have to. Mr. Clean makes a rinse system that softens the water so you don't get water spots.

 

Use clay bars to remove surface contaminants and put a good protective finish on it at least twice a year - 4 times would be better. Some people swear by Zaino, others prefer good carnauba wax. They all protect the finish.

 

Lots of good info at www.meguiars.com.

[vs08edge]

I went with a vapor silver instead of black. I had looked at both, and I love the VS!!! It definetly hides alot if I cant get to clening it as ofen as I would like.

[BlazedUp]

Paint takes a full month to cure. The paint is never cured after it leaves the factory. I don't know where you got your info from, but it is inaccurate. This is why you should never wax a new car until it is at least a month old going buy the build date. BTW, I am partial to the Blazing Copper

[NikonJeff]

As much as i would like the black (ugggh) I think that the Vapor Silver makes the best all around sense - I have a 5 year old son and a 10 year old daughter so time is NOT always on my side... The body shop manager at my local Ford dealer was the one who said that it "seems" like the black paint never really cures as that's why it appears softer than other paints. That was their opinion only and I have a great relationship with them - almost 17 years (OMG am I that old?).

 

I really appreciate all the informative feedback you folks have provided - this is awesome!

Jeff G

 

 

Side note:

I was looking for a argo area cover and found this one which is listed as a genuine Ford accessory - is it sold piece or some sort or flimsy unit? I need one in black but didn't see it listed.

 

http://www.partscheap.com/Ford_Edge_Cargo_...-7845440-aa.htm

Edited March 14, 2009 by NikonJeff

[bbf2530]

Paint takes a full month to cure. The paint is never cured after it leaves the factory. I don't know where you got your info from, but it is inaccurate. This is why you should never wax a new car until it is at least a month old going buy the build date. BTW, I am partial to the Blazing Copper

 

 

Hi BlazedUp. :D I get my information from the experts, so with all due respect, your information is inaccurate. As I correctly stated, the paint on a brand new car from the factory is cured before the car even gets to the end of the assembly line.

 

Only a freshly painted car from a collision/body shop should not be waxed for at least 30 days, since the painting and curing process is different than factory paint jobs.

 

This information is available in any Car Care and Detailing Forum.

 

In fact, just to avoid further debate, here is a direct quote from the Meguiar's forum:

 

10. How soon can I wax my new car?

 

A new car with a factory paint job can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. Cars that have factory paint jobs are cured at much higher temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens. At a factory level, the car goes through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the car and it's fresh paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level insures the paint is fully cured by the time the car is completely assembled.

 

After-market paint finishes however, are cured at a much lower temperature to ensure the method of baking or heating the paint doesn't melt non-metal components such as wiring and vinyl. For this reason, it's best to follow the specific paint manufactures recommendations for care and maintenance of fresh paint. Most paint manufactures that supply paint to the refinish industry recommend that you allow anywhere from 30 to 90 days curing time after the paint is applied before you apply the first application of wax.

 

To maintain your cars fresh paint during the recommended curing time you can safely use any of the below Meguiar's pure polishes, which are not only safe for fresh paint but help to enhance the curing process while making your paint look it's absolute best.

 

And here is the link to the page, so there can be no doubt that it is legitimate: LINK: Meguiar's FAQ's

 

And before anyone states that this is only one website, the exact same information/advice can be found by going to any other well known Car Care Forum, or Googling "waxing a new car".

 

Hope this information helps to straighten out any confusion about the subject.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

Edited March 14, 2009 by bbf2530

[Blue Oval]

bb, you are the man! THE go to guy.

[NikonJeff]

Well I can't wait, I take delivery of my brand spankin new 2008 Edge Limited AWD in Vapor Silver next Friday morning!!! I really love the look of the black paint, but here in New York it doesn't seem to stay clean very long.

 

I checked with my other local Ford dealers to comparison shop the 7 year/100k mile warranty and looks like I can't do any better than the $1590 I've been quote.

Jeff G