canucklehead Posted April 13 Report Share Posted April 13 (edited) A few tricks here might help, not a tough job but stuff you can break if not careful. Tools: 5.5mm socket, 8 mm socket, side cutters, phillips screwdriver, 2 small flat blade screwdrivers 1) There are a total of 23 fasteners. I sprayed with silicone lube a couple times on the wheel well/mud flap area and the single middle one between tail pipes. Silicone won't eat plastic like other penetrating oils. 2)Remove 8 fasteners under liftgate/along top of bumper. There are 2 x 8mm socket bolts and 6 plastic ones that look like phillips screws but are actually plastic push pin style. 4 along the cargo area and 2 on side near tail lights.I recommend tossing these after and replacing with Honda ATV style push connectors, I believe they are 6 or 8mm size. See pics. My Yamaha ATVs use the screw style and they get tossed and replaced with honda style. You will find the screw part wont come out. I use side cutters to PRY UP NOT CUT OFF. Same side cutters can also pry out other half of the connector. Pics of side cutter, original pins and replacements I recommend. 3) LOOSEN tail lights but no need to remove. Gives you a bit of wiggle room with bumper. 8mm socket as well. 4) There are 7 screws per side on the mud flap/wheel well area. 5 on the inside and 2 underneath. 5.5mm socket. Pic of underside screw location. 5) remove 1 middle bolt between tail pipes. (5.5 mm socket) 6) Have a table or other decent support ready to place bumper on so you don't need to wrestle with big main bumper plug. Or wrestle with plug. Your choice.When removing bumper the 2 outer edges near rear quarter panel/mud flap area are kinda hooked onto a flange/lip. Pull those outward/away before tugging bumper off or you might snap bumper plastic. You can kinda reach in to flap area to do this. I have pic with my hand showing how it snaps on top of flange for re-assembly. 7) Silicone spray all the sensor tabs and electrical connectors, makes removal easier. Push tab on wire connector to pull off. Some are stiff, so I push with thumb and then use small flat blade screwdriver to pry back the connector. You will bust the connectors if you are rough. 8 : Sensor removal: I used 2 small blade screwdrivers to slip between retaining tabs that hold sensor in place. I spread the tabs and lifted at same time and they popped out. The OEM sensor will probably leave behind a squished plastic gasket. need to remove that for the new sensor to snap back into place. 9) re assembly is reverse but make sure you pull out the outside corners to fit over the flange thingy to start. Don't forget to re-tighten tail lights when all done. Replace those crappy useless phillip screw plastic pins with the better Honda style. They are easier to re & re. Hope this helps someone or you get a trick out of it. I found the sensor removal without breaking something a bit of a head scratcher. Edited April 13 by canucklehead 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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