2016 Sport having weird charging issue and no batt light at start up self test….?

[MetalAnon]

2016 Sport… new batt, alt and belt less than a year ago install by our local stealership.  Belt randomly started squeeling a bit while idle at a stop light yesterday.  No codes.  I connected a voltmeter and found, while idling OR under acceleration, any amount of pedal, the voltage is ~11.5 volts, discharging.  However, if pedal is lifted completely, coasting, at speed over ~5 mph, voltage goes to ~13.4 volts and remains there until applying pedal again or coming to a stop.  Almost as if throttle body is shorting out, although I can’t explain what’s causing the volt drop at idle.  It’s not draining the battery enough to cause starting problems, but it is definitely hitting the batt hard as it read exactly 12v after sitting over night.  
 

Turning on amp hungry systems such as seat heaters or fan on high seems not to have any detrimental effect and everything seems to be functioning properly besides the voltage dropping below 12 volts like it is.  
 

Also, while investigating this, I noticed that the battery warning light does not illuminate during the start up self test.  It seems like it should and I know it works as it lit up and flashed properly when I reset the BMS last night.  That didn’t seem to help.
 

Can anyone please verify that the battery light does indeed come on momentarily at start up?  It should I’d think, can’t find that particular info anywhere, just want to be certain.

Any input on this weirdo issue is requested.  Thanks ahead of time!!!

[garycrist]

Sound like a loose alternator belt. You stated it squeals at idle and at high loads.

Time to put a volt meter on your beast. Old Ford test was after checking belts.

 

1. Take resting battery voltage it should be about 12.8V

2.  Turn on all accessories and run at 2500 RPM. Voltage should be 1/2 Volt higher.

3. With all  accessories on battery voltage should not fall more than 1/2 volt at idle.

  Replace alternator if out of specs.

 

I realize thing have changed but check your alternator belt 1st.

Edited April 11 by garycrist

[Tim W. AZ]

Put some bar soap on the belt and if the squealing stops tighten the belt. 

[Cerberus]

I'd bet you a beer that the pulley on the alternator is slipping. not the belt, the pulley itself.

You can't adjust the belt tension, is spring loaded.

But i just had pretty much the same problem and i replaced the alternator, but realized afterwards that the pulley (clutched overrun disconnect type) was free wheeling in both directions.

We've seen a few of these on the vehicles i work on in the shop too. Different make and model, but still, these clutching pulleys are suspect as hell.

 

oh, and my battery warning light did not come on with mine either until it was pretty much cooked.

Edited April 11 by Cerberus

[garycrist]

I forgot they put a clutch on the alternator! My, my, my, how things changed

since I wrenched!

[MetalAnon]

Thank you for the replies. I had not considered the tensioner, but as I was reaching in to check the belt tension, my arm brushed up against the coolant overflow hose, that plastic line that run across the top of the engine to the stat housing, it snapped like a twig. So my attention turned to that.  Found a new line at the local stealer shop and proceeded to start the repair. 

However, when removing the line from the stat housing, the end of it that interfaces with the hole, broke off inside the port, so now the new line will not seat. Fucking planned obsolescence!!!  

 

 I have tried everything I can think of to get the piece  out. Picks, screw drivers, compressed air, I even tried turning a screw into the damn thing like a puller, to no avail.  It is stuck!   I really, REALLY want to avoid damaging the thermostat housing for obvious reasons.  Thus, my tentative approach to remove the stuck connector end, but I gotta figure this out. 
 

Here’s a couple pics… if more pics needed let me know… any ideas?

 

then I will check then tensioner… ffs.