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2013 MKX Lock Issues - Best to Start by Replacing Actuators?


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Hello All, 

 

Having some trouble with the locks in my MKX and wanted to see if anyone else has tackled this issue in the past. When I lock/unlock my vehicle with either the fob or the keyless entry on the door handle, the lock on the driver's only pops up and down ~50% of the time, and the lock on the rear passenger door has completely stopped responding. The other two doors still respond correctly to the fob and keyless entry, and I can still manually unlock the problematic doors (I use physical slide-out key for the driver's door, and I just pull the lock up for the rear passenger door), so I know that it's not an issue with my fob. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to pull the two problematic doors apart and put in new lock actuators, but I figured I'd check and see if I might be overlooking anything before I start tearing things apart. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

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It does sound like actuators are worn out, unfortunately they are a latch/actuator package, so a bit more involved to replace and more expensive. I would verify the wiring connector on the drivers door, it the connector to the door module or the master switch are questionable might be low power going to them, I assume same happens from the interior door lock/unlock (electronic).

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On 2/14/2024 at 5:20 PM, dabangsta said:

It does sound like actuators are worn out, unfortunately they are a latch/actuator package, so a bit more involved to replace and more expensive. I would verify the wiring connector on the drivers door, it the connector to the door module or the master switch are questionable might be low power going to them, I assume same happens from the interior door lock/unlock (electronic).

 

Unfortunately, I'm 95% certain that both of them are receiving power--I can see the lock move a little when the unlock button is pressed (and they both make noise like they're trying to operate), but they just seem like they're not strong enough to actually push the lock up. I've lubricated them to see if that solved it, but unfortunately it made no difference. I may get the multimeter out and see if the voltage is low though, that's not a bad idea. 

 

Can you elaborate a little more on the latch/actuator package piece? I thought that I'd just be able to replace the actuator, but do I need to get a separate latch as well? Here's the part I was looking at for the driver's door (part # BT4Z78264A27B, https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/locks-and-keys/door-latch-door-lock-actuator-motor-left-front-driver-p-bt4z78264a27b?pdp=y) , would I need to buy the latch too? Or is it included in the part I was looking at? I know I'll have to pull the door apart, but I want to make sure I have everything in order before doing so. Regardless, thank you for your help, really appreciate it. 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Ever get around to fixing this?

 

When I origionally read it, it guessed it was a dirty/corroded lock mechanism that was causing too much resistance for the actuators. ...? 

 

If you still haven't done anything, I'd try spraying the latch mechanism with brake clean.

 

Or is it break clean? (You still kicking?)

Edited by enigma-2
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