Seeking Help with 2013 Edge Electrical Problem

[Edgeofdespair]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent problem with my wife's Edge that has been plaguing me for over a year.

Sometimes - usually just after I mention to someone that I think I fixed the problem - the car will have a rough start (sometimes cold, sometimes warm) where there is no throttle control at all. After a few seconds, the engine will lower RPMs to the point where the car starts to shake and it smells like its running very rich. Occasionally I'll notice the lights on the shifter randomly changing from park to drive to neutral (etc) in a random pattern, but it doesn't feel like the transmission is trying to engage.

A few months ago, this happened while I was driving. I lost all acceleration and managed to limp to a gas station.

I will get all the error lights on the dash from the yellow wrench to engine over temperature to the advancetrac light and everything in between.

 

The most recent time it happened the list of codes were as follows: P0123, P060B, U0401, P0643, P0A5A, P2123, P2128, P2135, P2138, P2111

We had it towed to Ford about six month ago to have them look at it, but they couldn't replicate the problem and wanted to just install a new throttle body. I passed on them installing, but when I installed a new one the problems persisted.

At some point, I'm usually able to clear the codes and restart the car enough times for it to work normally.

The codes point to the TPS, but I did a circuit trace of everything in the system and it all tested within spec according to the shop manual. I've reached the point where I believe the only option is to replace the PCM.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[Perblue]

Normally a sensor reading too high of voltage means there is a bad ground, it could be a bare wire that's ended up chafed leading from the sensor or one of the main grounds on the car. Yours is likely doing it intermittently from the vibrations of driving around. They are a pita to track but sounds like you need to make sure the main grounds are not corroded or frayed and then follow the grounds for the associated sensors down the harness looking for anything that looks even the slightest suspicious. I once found one right at the base of a connector for a maf sensor, first time I looked at it I thought it was good, the next time I looked at it I finally seen the only 2 strands in the wire were actually still connected. Redid the wire, high voltage went away.

[Edgeofdespair]

I guess that would make sense.

When I started doing the pinout tests I took the bumper off to get to the chassis ground and it was nasty but making a good connection.

I kept thinking that it was a ground issue but could never track down anything that looked suspect, but it couldn't hurt to tear back into it anyway.

Thanks, I appreciate your response.

[Perblue]

1 hour ago, Edgeofdespair said:

I guess that would make sense.

When I started doing the pinout tests I took the bumper off to get to the chassis ground and it was nasty but making a good connection.

I kept thinking that it was a ground issue but could never track down anything that looked suspect, but it couldn't hurt to tear back into it anyway.

Thanks, I appreciate your response.

 

Did you clean up the ground? A green ground is a bad ground.

 

You may have to test your voltages at the sensors and start moving harness around and see if there is a spot that makes it fluctuate.

 

You're welcome.

[SimpleAutomation]

Hello, wondering if you found a solution to this?  I have a friend who has basically the same fault codes and symptoms occurring.

Edited October 31 by SimpleAutomation