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2018 3.5 Considering battery replacement


flymore

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Considering replacing the battery soon on my 2018 with 3.5L

The car isn't a driven daily. This causes premature battery failure.

 

Can I do this myself? Looks like reaching the negative terminal may be difficult but possible.

 

Is this just a unhook the old battery and hookup the new, like I've done with other cars?

 

Any hints, tips, suggestions like what battery to replace it with would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, omar302 said:

It has been confirmed in the forums that H6 & H7 batteries fit (Gen2). The battery tray has three holes for the bracket to allow to fit the different size batteries.

If going with a different size battery its best to reset the BMS using Forscan, selecting the size and type battery.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Have a 2020 2.4L and probably do not drive it enough (didn't foresee that I would be still working at home so I have 5,700 miles in nearly three years.)  The auto start stop has rarely activated and once, it went into battery saving mode with the result that the only door that would lock/unlock was the driver's.  I bought a battery charger.  It would take a very long period to charge the battery.  The auto start stop would work after charging on only the first trip.  At stop lights info screen said battery charging.  I was out of town and rented an Explorer with 45K and it had no problem with the auto start stop.  The Ford Dealer said the battery was good and that I needed to brake harder.  Had it tested and results were 503 CCA and 12.37 voltage.  Even if the dealer said battery was no good, I would get only five percent proration if I bought a new Motorcraft battery.  Researched sites (like Consumer Reports) said the Diehard Platinum AGM was the best battery available.  It is sold at Advanced/CarQuest Auto Parts with free installation and if they install it, you get a 36-month full replacement warranty, plus jump service, towing and more up to $125.  Also, if more than 100 miles from if you need assistance and must stay overnight, you can claim up to $250 for meal and lodging expenses.  The battery is one thing that I would recommend not buying OE from Ford Dealer and also not trying to squeeze every last volt out of a battery unless you have a good set of jumper cables.

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Thanks for the info. My car doesn't have stop/start and I don't want it! It strains the battery, starter and engine.

 

Haven't changed my battery yet, but now keep jumper cables in my car.

 

Having checked the voltage on my battery occasionally, it has been as low as 11.6 volts. When it's this low I put a charger on it and it come right up.

 

My biggest concern is coming back from a trip and finding it dead in the parking lot, but they have a jump starter there so not a huge deal.

 

I charged the battery before my last trip and when I came back the car started fine.

 

I'll look into Advanced auto parts. Buy I'll probable just do it myself.

 

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Here is another recommendation:  Try the CarAIDE Multi-Tool Jumper Cable.  I found that most portable jump starters are junk but not this one.  I was at the supermarket and I saw that there was an attempt to jump a car but even with the cables attached, nothing was happening.  I took out the Tool and attached it to the battery and the car immediately started up.  Last week, I saw another vehicle waiting for a jump.  I took out the tool again and that car immediately started.  I actually now look for cars to jump.  If I actually lost power in my Edge, I do not have to wait for anyone, I can jump it myself. It is that good.

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3 hours ago, edgeidiot said:

Here is another recommendation:  Try the CarAIDE Multi-Tool Jumper Cable.  I found that most portable jump starters are junk but not this one.  I was at the supermarket and I saw that there was an attempt to jump a car but even with the cables attached, nothing was happening.  I took out the Tool and attached it to the battery and the car immediately started up.  Last week, I saw another vehicle waiting for a jump.  I took out the tool again and that car immediately started.  I actually now look for cars to jump.  If I actually lost power in my Edge, I do not have to wait for anyone, I can jump it myself. It is that good.


I have a gooloo from Amazon that works great.  Also charges mobile devices.

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this is my current favorite gooloo jump starter/battery bank

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2NSDPVL

 

kind of a jack of all trades 4 me. somewhat bulky, but versatile.

 

as for batteries, you can get the best out there but you need to keep it topped up regularly. either through sufficient regular high speed driving or a battery tender. that is how you get the best life out of it, even after resetting the bms.

 

a smart battery charger and a digital tester are also good tools to have for the long term. they are not tied to any particular make or model of vehicle, so you can help yourself and if the need arises others as well.

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In my 2017 Escape, I let the battery get down to a little over 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA battery) before I replaced it (1.5 GTDI and it cranked just fine), and I tried the "let it sit for 8 hours" a few nights, and it didn't reset.

 

Until I manually reset the BMS (using the flash to pass 5 times and brakes 3 times) Auto Start/Stop was disabled still. I also think that the radio would turn off if the engine wasn't running to save the battery (which is was doing before battery replacement, and only reason I replaced it), and I think that it shut off remote (via FordPass, not key fob) access and still went into deep sleep.

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4 hours ago, Chipster said:

Out of curiosity what is the result of not re-setting the BMS after a battery replacement? Would there be any point in doing a BMS reset a couple of years after that battery replacement? Has anyone used the info. expressed in the video above for said BMS reset and if so, what was the result? 

the result of smart chargers today is that they have to assess the profile of the battery they are charging.  that is what the BMS reset does. if you do not reset it for the new battery, it will charge the new battery as if it were the old run-down battery, which of course is bad for the new battery longterm.  those infamous "battery saver" messages will start popping up a lot sooner than they would have.

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Recently replaced the battery in my Edge.  It was approximately 4 years old and I replaced it with an H6 AGM. I was getting the telltale signs of needing a battery replacement when only my drivers door handle would unlock the vehicle and start/stop would not function.  I tried resetting the BMS with a scan tool I have but said it wasn't supported, kinda odd I thought. So I used the method in the video above and it worked fine. Replacing the battery itself is relatively easy and straightforward. I removed the air box assembly to gain access to the battery. One thing I noticed on the IPC for the start/stop information before replacing the battery, it would almost always say not functioning due to vehicle charging. I'm guessing this might also be putting more stress on the alternator since the system thinks the battery needs to be charged constantly. When I tested the old battery it was at 72% charge.

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On 2/28/2023 at 6:49 AM, kruzr1 said:

Recently replaced the battery in my Edge.  It was approximately 4 years old and I replaced it with an H6 AGM. I was getting the telltale signs of needing a battery replacement when only my drivers door handle would unlock the vehicle and start/stop would not function.  I tried resetting the BMS with a scan tool I have but said it wasn't supported, kinda odd I thought. So I used the method in the video above and it worked fine. Replacing the battery itself is relatively easy and straightforward. I removed the air box assembly to gain access to the battery. One thing I noticed on the IPC for the start/stop information before replacing the battery, it would almost always say not functioning due to vehicle charging. I'm guessing this might also be putting more stress on the alternator since the system thinks the battery needs to be charged constantly. When I tested the old battery it was at 72% charge.

 

Nice to hear the reset of the BMS in the video worked for you. That's the method I'll probable be using.

 

So you didn't need or use forscan when you changed your battery?

 

Thanks

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I have to clarify that my post on the battery installation was on a Edge ST. Did not realize the OP was about the 3.5 engine at first. Although I believe most of the information still applies. Concerning the use of forscan, I don't think you need to use it unless you're using a different battery than the original equipment type. Everything on my vehicle is working fine using the method in the video.

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  • 1 year later...

Obtained digital battery tester a month ago.

 

The attached image is what showed 28 days ago. Followed the "recharge" suggestion from the meter and then retested everything seemed fine.

 

Drove it out to the field, about 45 minute drive from my house without issue. Visited with friends for 6 hours.  Edge wouldn't start, click click click.

 

Used my jump starter, started up and drove home.  During the drive home auto dimming message came on and dimmed my instrument lights. Could hardly read the speedometer. 

 

Next morning voltage on the battery was 12.5 and tester now showed "BAD" not "REPLACE" but "BAD", really! well there was no way I wasn't going to replace it! Did so and reset BMS.

 

 

20240610_184028.jpg

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