jeffcarl Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 I have no audio in my 2017 edge SEL with the nav screen. Dealer tells me it's the Audio Control Module, which is also the CD player. I'm in the Rochester NY area & we have a good used parts vendor, Wilberts. They have these ACM units, but there are a few varieties, and I don't know what differences are. The part could be a FT4T-19C107-KD or FT4T-19C107-HD. There are also some others, the differences being the last two letters of the part ID. My VIN is 2FMPK3J87HBB88584 if that sheds any light on it. Can anyone clarify this for me? Thanks jeff carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 Your vehicle came equipped from the factory with ACM part # FT4T-19C107-KD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted January 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 Thank you JMR. That's what I'll get to replace the misbehaving one. I am curious about the differences between the units with differing 2 letter codes at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted January 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 And assuming I get a same part number replacement unit from a junk yard, will it need to be reprogrammed once its' installed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 (edited) A used ACM will contain the As Built data from the donor vehicle, so once the used ACM is installed in your Edge, the used ACM will need to be reprogrammed. Below is an image of your Edge's ACM As Built values, extracted from its online .ab file, and also PDF download links to relevant sections from the 2017 Edge Workshop Manual. Good luck! Information and Entertainment System - Component Location - Touchscreen - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Information and Entertainment System - Overview - Touchscreen - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Information and Entertainment System - System Operation and Component Description - Touchscreen - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Audio Front Control Module (ACM) Removal and Installation - Touchscreen - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Information and Entertainment System - ACM DTC Chart - Touchscreen - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Edited January 31, 2022 by Haz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 This may be of interest to you. (Cheapest way out, no programming). https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-2019-Ford-EDGE-REPAIR-SERVICE-AM-FM-CD-Sat-Radio-OEM-FT4T-19C107-HD-/275064646248?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted February 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 You guys are awesome, thank you so much! Once complete I will let you all know how how I proceeded & how it went. What a helpful community, thanks again jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 If you get lucky it won't need to be programmed. Since it is the same part # it may be from a same equipped and programmed vehicle. You can check the programming if you know the donor vin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 Good point, Jason! Jeff, if the donor VIN is available, I can look-up the As Built programming for that ACM, also. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted February 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 Well here I am nearly 3 weeks with no progress yet. Does anyone know, if I pull my existing module & send it out, can the car be driven without the module for the four or five days until it comes back & I reinstall it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 18 minutes ago, jeffcarl said: Well here I am nearly 3 weeks with no progress yet. Does anyone know, if I pull my existing module & send it out, can the car be driven without the module for the four or five days until it comes back & I reinstall it? Yes you can drive it with out an acm. How much is it going to cost to have it repaired? Contact me if you want as I can track down and program the correct module for you as it appears you can’t find one yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted February 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 I removed the ACM this afternoon. Not a bad job at all. Sending it off to Collegeville PA tomorrow for their fix. I put stuff back together so I have heater controls. It drives fine & and everything seems to work, well almost everything: The only issue I have now is I have a parking brake malfunction on the dash & the chime that goes along with that; the parking brake doesn't work. I tried cycling the power on & off a few times, without actually starting & the actually starting, but no joy. I also disconnected the battery for a couple minutes but that didn't work either. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 28, 2022 Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 I had something similar in my 09 mkx. Had the dealer look at it, and he found the emergency brake parts were rusted in place. As I needed brakes at that time, I authorized new pads, rotors and told them to replace whatever was needed (as in new brake shoes) for the emergency brakes. Based on what i had, I'll bet your emergency brake shoes are stuck on due to rust. (My emergency shoes were worn to 1 mm thickness, from being stuck on. Also the parts that apply the shoes were stuck and couldn't move). The emergency brakes are located inside the rear disk rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted March 1, 2022 Report Share Posted March 1, 2022 On 2/27/2022 at 5:38 PM, jeffcarl said: I removed the ACM this afternoon. Not a bad job at all. Sending it off to Collegeville PA tomorrow for their fix. I put stuff back together so I have heater controls. It drives fine & and everything seems to work, well almost everything: The only issue I have now is I have a parking brake malfunction on the dash & the chime that goes along with that; the parking brake doesn't work. I tried cycling the power on & off a few times, without actually starting & the actually starting, but no joy. I also disconnected the battery for a couple minutes but that didn't work either. Any ideas? Did you plug the electrical connector back in for the switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted March 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2022 Yes, and checked twice. I haven't got back into the bowels of it yet. I probably disturbed a connection in there somewhere. Rule: Always look at the last thing you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted March 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 A good report today: ACM sent out on Monday, came home today. Installed and everything works! While the ACM was out, I had the parking brake malfunction bugging me every day, and mid week the GPS lost its bearings. I'm between Rochester & Buffalo, to the south, but yesterday on my way home from work in Rochester GPS had me traveling in Lake Erie just slightly west of Buffalo. It was showing me in motion, it just had my position way off. Good thing I can swim. So I was very concerned that something else went cattywampus. I was very pleasantly surprised when everything returned to normal. It wasn't a very difficult job. There is an excellent youtube video showing exact removal procedure here: ACM Removal LINK The first 10 minutes covers it. He's actually replacing the 4" screen to an 8", they offer this as a kit. Special Thank You to jmr061 (jason), Haz, and enigma-2 for taking your time and offering sound advice & assistance. I sent the unit out for repair to ebay vendor pcbimprovement in Collegeville PA. Pavel there did exactly what his listing said: repaired it with 24 turn around, no reprogramming necessary. If anyone needs an ACM fixed I can recommend Pavel without reservation. Happy motoring jeff 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcap Posted March 8, 2022 Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 Does anyone know exactly what goes wrong with the ACM? I saw a video of someone putting the ACM in the oven as a way of resoldering the terminals in the motherboard. In another video I saw some terminals with poor soldering jobs from factory that had cracked and it only required a little resoldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Breeze Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 I realize the last post was 2 years ago, but I thought I'd answer for the benefit of anyone who might be wondering the same. I work in electronic manufacturing. Lead free solder is common place in most electronics now because of the environmental and health concerns of lead. They're trying to keep lead out of the landfills, but like most environmental and political entities, they are very miss-guided. Facts... Lead from electronics makes up a very small percentage of the lead in landfills. Pb (lead) free solder is very brittle and fractures easily. The solder joints in a home stereo receiver will hold up much better than in a car stereo because it rarely gets moved or banged around like in a car. That's the reason the Military, Aviation, Medical and Space arenas pretty much all still use lead solder. Because lead solder joints are softer, less brittle and when soldered correctly will not fracture. Sadly, if all electronics still used lead solder, they'd last longer and wouldn't show up in the landfills! To those that are technically inclined enough to open up electronic devices and attempt repairs... 1) know that lead free solder requires much higher temperatures to melt. Most at home pencil style soldering irons won't get hot enough. 2) My solution, resolder the joint with LEADED solder. It melts at a lower temp , so it's easier to work with and it will combine with the fragile lead free solder making it softer and less likely to fracture. When I get in deep enough to touch up a solder joint, I tend to hit up ALL the joints to avoid future fractures/failures. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 Excellent write up. Very informative. I would like to add some specifics for reference that eutectic solder (Sn-Pb, solder with lead) melts and flows at a temperature of 340℃, (644°F) whereas lead-free solder (Sn-0.7Cu) melts and flows at around 380℃ (716°F). Something to check for when purchasing a soldering iron. This is close to the maximum temperature for soldering. Also some heat sensitive components could be damaged if subjected to these high temperatures. Not to mention that at these temperatures, soldering iron tips wear out fairly quickly. (I only use lead solder (40%) or silver solder for repairs.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Breeze Posted February 29 Report Share Posted February 29 Those temps are good to know. My experience is with a "reflow" oven and solder "paste". Part of the process of Surface Mount Technology (SMT). Because the ovens use several "zones" of heating, they must be able to get away with lower temperatures. I don't have as much experience with hand soldering which apparently requires a higher temperature. When it comes to hand soldering circuit boards, especially the small connections of SMT parts to the PCA, my experience is more about what NOT to do. At Pb Free temperatures, it's easy to do damage to the PCA itself which is very difficult to repair. It's very important to be quick with the iron to prevent the solder "pad" or "trace" to become damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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