Fuse panel question

[paker]

2010 Edge 3.5L

Edge is not my daily driver. After a few days of standing in the driveway, battery voltage drops to 12.0 V. Current was measured at 0.2 A in a few minutes. Now I need to pull fuses one by one to pinpoint the culprit circuit.

QUESTION 1: I know there are 2 fuse boxes. Are the fuses in the cabin "sub-fuses" to the main fuses in the engine compartment? Or are they indepent?

QUESTION 2: Does anyone know when current draw reaches min? If this time is 1 hour, do I have to remain in the cabin for 1 hour with the doors closed? Is there any other way?

Thank you.

 

PS: If I am in the wrong forum, please move the question to the right one. Thank you.

 

[Haz]

Before you begin tracing circuit amperage draws by pulling fuses -- if you have not already -- have the battery tested at any nationwide-brand auto parts store to ensure the battery does not have a failing-or-failed cell that could be the root cause of the battery voltage drop you've observed.

 

If the battery has been verified as good, the Workshop Manual sections attached below will provide you guidance on (Question 1) the interconnected circuit protection of the under-hood Battery Junction Box (BJB) and the cabin-mounted Smart Junction Box (SJB), as well as (Question 2) the Battery Drain Diagnosis and Testing Procedures and other documents provided via underlined PDF download links.

 

Good luck!

 

Battery Junction Box Illustration - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Battery Junction Box Circuit Legend - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Smart Junction Box Illustration - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Smart Junction Box Circuit Legend - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Battery Drain Diagnosis and Testing Procedure - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Module Controlled Functions Description and Operation - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Smart Junction Block Diagnosis and Testing - 2010 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

[paker]

Thank you. I just downloaded the linked documents. I will read them up and follow the procedure. By next weekend I should be able to report back. Thank you again.

 

By the way, I disconnected the negative terminal and the voltage was stable at 12.5 V for a few days. I remember load testing the battery several months ago. No issues.

 

Edited December 5, 2021 by paker

[enigma-2]

200 milliamps sounds reasonable. Your battery is suspect. Suggest you have it load tested.

 

Lowest draw is after 15 or 20 minute delay expires.

 

Wife's car had no problem starting all year. She went out to start last week and dead. Really dead.

 

Jumped ok using boost and measured CCAs using Solar BA9 tester. Battery has 650 CCA when new, measured 180 CCA after jump and driving several miles (to charge up).

 

Been setting on charger since then and scheduled to be replaced at Ford garage next week.

Edited December 7, 2021 by enigma-2

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

180 is really low. first time that happens, you can recover it for the most part, but it will not survive another such drawdown. best to be ready for a new battery.

[Edgingage]

Parker: how old is the battery in your car?

 

Enigma: how old is the battery in your wife's car?

 

Please.  Thank you both.

[enigma-2]

1 hour ago, Edgingage said:

Enigma: how old is the battery in your wife's car?

Forget. 6, 7 years. Possibly 8. Problem is, wife only drives short trips. Gets replaced 12/21 along with "The Works".

 

Been sitting on a CTEK for several days. Went through all 8 steps, took awhile but completed ok.

[paker]

To my great relief after 1 hour wait current dropped to 27-30 mA. I need to get the battery load tested. When disconnected from car after full charge, the battery maintains 12.5 V for days. The Edge used to be my daily driver until a month ago when I bought another vehicle.  Thank you HAZ for sending me power distribution diagrams. I just ordered a solar trickle charger, 10 watt. I will need it whether or not I get a new battery. Thank you all.