1004ron Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 F0RDM0M yes, mine was past 60K so on Premium Care until 100K. It will be covered under warranty. Mine hasn't hickuped once since I installed the new purge valve. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F0RDM0M Posted April 1, 2022 Report Share Posted April 1, 2022 (edited) Now I’m wondering if this is even the cause of my issue at all. Noticed a small oil leak under the car this morning. Check under the hood this afternoon to find the dealership never replaced the oil cap at the last service. Checked dip stick and there is little to no oil in the vehicle. Car will be getting towed to dealership soon so they can fix this. I wonder if the P144a code will disappear once this is fixed. Edited April 1, 2022 by F0RDM0M 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 When was the service done? How often to you check your oil level? Not likely that the oil cap will resolve the P144a code. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F0RDM0M Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 Two weeks ago. I don’t check it THAT often but apparently I should start checking after they work on it. Haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 4:24 AM, F0RDM0M said: Two weeks ago. I don’t check it THAT often but apparently I should start checking after they work on it. Haha. Most dealerships use young'ens to do the simple work. Non-certified want-a-be's looking to get into mechanics school sponsored by the dealer. Can't trust any of them. After one visit I popped my hood, checked the dip stick and it was good. As I was replacing it, noticed they never replaced the engine cover. ? Stopped by the dealer couple of days later and demanded to go find my lost engine cover and ... idiot threw it away. Dealer had to buy me a new one. Bought a new 2009 MKX chrome wheel to replace one that had hit a curb. Verified that the idiot replaced it as it still had a green sticker on it. Only problem was, the sit-for-brains replaced the wrong wheel. Service Manager clearly wrote drivers front. Dumb ass replaced drivers rear. Threw old one away. Cost the dealer ~$600-$700. I watched the Service Manager himself go dumpster diving to find the old one. Also found my oil cap loose after one oil change. Hadn't fallen off yet, but probably could have worked its way off eventually. Every couple of years I have them replace the oil drain bolt. Most of these idiots over tightening the bolt thinking the tighter the better. When my mom was alive, she had her Honda serviced at local Honda dealer. Complained it wandered all over after every oil change. As it was a 40 mile drive to her house to fix this, I had enough and stopped by Basney Honda to report the idiot doing the oil changes was over-filling the air pressure in the tires. Service Manager told me that he was filling the tires to the pressure marked on the tires, which is what Honda required. (I imagined his qualifications for the job was his ability to ask "want fries with that"?) We argued for about a half hour. (I dont back down when dealing with idiots). Finally I demanded to speak to the Operations Officer of the dealer. He agreed with the Service Manager. So I called Honda. Next oil change, pressure was as printed on the placard. Stupidity runs all the way to the top in some dealerships. Ford also has excellent Regional Customer Representatives. 800-393-3673. (Dealer knows I have them on speed dial). Had these little battery anti-corrosion rings put on one trip as they found corrosion. Figured they'd clean the terminals and the ringy things would keep it clean. So the idiot put the rings on & never cleaned the terminals however. They did the work over on their dime. Customer click. .... (rainman) Edited April 26, 2022 by enigma-2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvuckovic17 Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 Just looking for some help with the p1450 error code on my 2018 Edge sport. I purchased the wrong part and was just wondering if anyone knew the right part i need. Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. Eventually it starts but i want to get rid of the check engine light. Everything points to the fuel (vapour) evaporator. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of what part i need for my car. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bscott94 Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 12 hours ago, jvuckovic17 said: Just looking for some help with the p1450 error code on my 2018 Edge sport. I purchased the wrong part and was just wondering if anyone knew the right part i need. Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. Eventually it starts but i want to get rid of the check engine light. Everything points to the fuel (vapour) evaporator. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of what part i need for my car. Thanks in advance. The PDF from the comment below has a good diagram showing the part. I ordered my part off of Rock Auto. I picked my car and it showed me the correct parts. I think it was around $50 On 7/13/2019 at 12:43 AM, omar302 said: @Scott98 See the attached if it helps. Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve 27l.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvuckovic17 Posted June 25, 2022 Report Share Posted June 25, 2022 So i got the part and installed it but I still have a check engine light on. Does anyone know of anything else that needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance. Or does the code need to be cleared first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted June 25, 2022 Report Share Posted June 25, 2022 53 minutes ago, jvuckovic17 said: So i got the part and installed it but I still have a check engine light on. Does anyone know of anything else that needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance. Or does the code need to be cleared first? If the light is staying on, then no point in clearing codes - check the codes and if its still the same evap code then you have other issues with the evap system, like the canister in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvuckovic17 Posted June 25, 2022 Report Share Posted June 25, 2022 The canister in the rear. Can you get to it easily or does the tank need to come off? Any chance you might know the part number? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted June 26, 2022 Report Share Posted June 26, 2022 3 hours ago, jvuckovic17 said: The canister in the rear. Can you get to it easily or does the tank need to come off? Any chance you might know the part number? Thanks in advance. Do you still have the symptoms "Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. " ? Hopefully @Haz can assist with that. My dealerships service manager told me the most often the evap valve is the cure, but they have also found the same code to be a problem with the canister in the rear. Once you have it resolved, to avoid this happening again never top-off your tank - stop the first time the pump shuts off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvuckovic17 Posted June 26, 2022 Report Share Posted June 26, 2022 13 hours ago, 1004ron said: Do you still have the symptoms "Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. " ? Hopefully @Haz can assist with that. My dealerships service manager told me the most often the evap valve is the cure, but they have also found the same code to be a problem with the canister in the rear. Once you have it resolved, to avoid this happening again never top-off your tank - stop the first time the pump shuts off. Yes i still have the symptoms. I think my issue is with the canister in the rear. Just locating it and finding the correct part number might be the challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted June 26, 2022 Report Share Posted June 26, 2022 (edited) jvuckovic17: Below are relevant sections from 2018 Edge Workshop Manual, and from 2018 Gasoline Powertrain Control- Emission Diagnosis Manual, relating to potential causes of P1450 Diagnostic Trouble Code, Diagnostic Pinpoint Test HX, and other procedures, diagrams, and details, provided as PDF download links and images... Good luck! PINPOINT TEST HX - EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) SYSTEM AND MONITOR - 2.7L Ecoboost - 2018 PC-ED Manual.pdf Evaporative Emissions - Overview - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Evaporative Emissions - System Operation and Component Description - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Evaporative Emission Canister - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Evaporative Emission Canister Ventilation Filter - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor and Tube - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fuel Tank - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge.pdf EVAP Components Wiring Diagram - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CANISTER VENT VALVE - Connector C450 Details - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) PURGE VALVE - Connector C1029 Details - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve - Removal and Installation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Removal and Installation - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) Connector C1551B Details - 2018 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf You may input your Edge's VIN into the factory FordParts.com site to determine which Vapor Canister is appropriate for your vehicle, and/or contact them via telephone, or inquire at your local dealership Parts counter, or via your preferred online parts seller ... Edited June 26, 2022 by Haz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbeavin Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 Hello all, hope I'm posting in the right forum here. I'm wanting to know where I can locate individual retainer clips for my 2013 Ford edge limited urge valve and connector hose that apparently mechanic shop failed to put on when replacing my purge valve. Dealership said I have to buy the whole house assembly for $96. I just need two plastic clips! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 (edited) 36 minutes ago, lbeavin said: Hello all, hope I'm posting in the right forum here. I'm wanting to know where I can locate individual retainer clips for my 2013 Ford edge limited urge valve and connector hose that apparently mechanic shop failed to put on when replacing my purge valve. Dealership said I have to buy the whole house assembly for $96. I just need two plastic clips! I've broken one of these clips and got a replacement from www.oreillyauto.com They don't always have these on the shelf, but they got it in the same day for me - Just let them know the size and they'll order. Dorman OE Solutions Fuel Line Retaining Clip, New Style, Black | 9696916 | Pep Boys 3/8 In. Fuel Line Retaining Clips 800-004: Advance Auto Parts Amazon.com: Dorman 800-041 Universal Fuel Line Retainer - 5/8 In. Compatible with Select Models, 2 Pack : Automotive Edited June 30, 2022 by 1004ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMagdi Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 Hey Guys, This is my first post, I have a problem that is driving me crazy since 3 months, I have a 3.5L edge, whenever I put petrol I put petrol it stalls and takes very long to ignite again, it takes like 4-5 times turning the key to start and then becomes crazy RPM above 3 then stalls again. Once driven it becomes stable but engine light in the dashboard turns on then after a couple of days it comes normal. I think that there is a back pressure in the fuel rail or something is releasing the fuel pump pressure in the tank, I am planning to change the whole fuel pump which will cost around 1000$ but I'm afraid it might be not the problem and I just flush 1K in the toilet. Any ideas ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 5 hours ago, HMagdi said: Hey Guys, This is my first post, I have a problem that is driving me crazy since 3 months, I have a 3.5L edge, whenever I put petrol I put petrol it stalls and takes very long to ignite again, it takes like 4-5 times turning the key to start and then becomes crazy RPM above 3 then stalls again. Once driven it becomes stable but engine light in the dashboard turns on then after a couple of days it comes normal. I think that there is a back pressure in the fuel rail or something is releasing the fuel pump pressure in the tank, I am planning to change the whole fuel pump which will cost around 1000$ but I'm afraid it might be not the problem and I just flush 1K in the toilet. Any ideas ? Get the error codes read and post them here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Purge valve and/or Evap canister. Do a forum search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 22 hours ago Report Share Posted 22 hours ago (edited) 36K miles and three years after replacing the EVAP valve its stumbling at idle immediately after gassing up, and NO I don't click the nozzle again after it shuts off. No codes this time and I removed the valve and without power its shut and holds vacuum. Might buy just the valve and attempt to install it on the original assembly. Edited 21 hours ago by 1004ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted 18 hours ago Report Share Posted 18 hours ago No codes? Besides evap, did you check for a dirty air filter? Any possibility one or more injectors dirty? How many miles on spark plugs? Plug boots in good condition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 18 hours ago Report Share Posted 18 hours ago (edited) 4 hours ago, 1004ron said: No codes this time and I removed the valve and without power its shut and holds vacuum. 11 minutes ago, enigma-2 said: No codes? Besides evap, did you check for a dirty air filter? Any possibility one or more injectors dirty? How many miles on spark plugs? Plug boots in good condition? Correct, no codes. Air filter is clean - changed only 4K miles back. Spark plugs and PCV valve changed 2K miles back. I'd not suspect any of those considering idle stumble occurs only immediately after gassing up at idle, and then nothing until the next time I gas up. Exact same symptoms which cleared with a new EVAP valve - just wish I knew the procedure to test the valve, but now leaning towards spending the $70 for a new OEM replacement. Edited 18 hours ago by 1004ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmaf901 Posted 16 hours ago Report Share Posted 16 hours ago 5 hours ago, 1004ron said: 36K miles and three years after replacing the EVAP valve its stumbling at idle immediately after gassing up, and NO I don't click the nozzle again after it shuts off. No codes this time and I removed the valve and without power its shut and holds vacuum. Might buy just the valve and attempt to install it on the original assembly. Isn't the valve supposed to open after filling up? Maybe it’s not doing so (and failed in that way). I know usually they stick to a semi-open position but this case may be different. You can either see if you can test its actions by connecting whatever voltage controls it (I didn't look it up). And see if it opens-closes correctly. If it doesn't thats your problem. If it does, then check the output of the connector that controls it on the engine, make sure its outputting correctly. 3 years @ 36k is crazy btw. I go 18-20k a year 😅. Lots of idle-time as well - but for the last 3 years I have replaced the purge valve in October or November every year just as it got cold here in New York. Its a different evap code each time too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted 14 hours ago Report Share Posted 14 hours ago 3 hours ago, 1004ron said: - just wish I knew the procedure to test the valve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted 4 hours ago Report Share Posted 4 hours ago Thanks enigma-2 As you can tell, I didn't Google it before posting !!! I'll do that test, which is easy enough, but I'm starting to suspect that the issue is elsewhere, possibly the canister. A few thoughts - pull the electrical plug on the EVAP valve and run it like that for a while, even though that may generate a code, or leave the hose from the canister off and wrap some fabric around the inlet to the valve as a filter to prevent ingesting dust/debris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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