Jstrem75 Posted September 27, 2021 Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 I have a 2013 Ford Edge 2.0L Ecoboost. The heat would only work when the RPM was over 3k. When it dropped below, it went ice cold. What I've done so far: Flushed the radiator. Flushed the heating core. Replaced the radiator hoses. Checked the fuses. Replaced both, the driver and passenger side, blender actuators. Replaced the thermostat. Changed the cabin filter. Checked the blower motor. Reset the HVAC controller. Reset the car completely by removing the positive terminal. No leaks. No fault codes. After all tha... Now I have no heat at all. What else could it be? I'm out of ideas and need some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 27, 2021 Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) did not state mileage, but coolant pump could be failing. not too bad to change it, so that's one thing. could be a temperature control valve as well. engine gets up to temperature quickly, no problems on that end? Edited September 27, 2021 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 Mileage is 130k. The pump seems like an absolute pain to replace via DIY, worse than the heater core. You have to rip the engine apart to change it. I'll change out the control valve this weekend and give an update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 you must be looking at videos for the 3.5/3.7 lol. the pump is external on any of the ecoboosts deployed on the edge/mkx platform. good luck with the control valve. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 On 9/28/2021 at 9:59 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said: you must be looking at videos for the 3.5/3.7 lol. the pump is external on any of the ecoboosts deployed on the edge/mkx platform. good luck with the control valve. Ordered a heater control valve. Should be in this coming weekend. It wasn't working at all. The coolant pump is fine. Also replacing the shocks, struts, front end, turbo, and inlet air intake. Today was changing all the fluids, brake pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, and a new set of tires. Whew. Crossing fingers on the heat valve. What a day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 4, 2021 Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Jstrem75 said: Ordered a heater control valve. Should be in this coming weekend. It wasn't working at all. The coolant pump is fine. Also replacing the shocks, struts, front end, turbo, and inlet air intake. I can see changing the control valve, but the other stuff? (bad humor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 On 10/3/2021 at 7:42 PM, enigma-2 said: I can see changing the control valve, but the other stuff? (bad humor) I changed out the heater control valve but it's it's wrong part. The pigtail is a 2012, not a 2013. I disconnected it and I have heat now. Not sure the long term effects of having it unplugged until the right part comes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 NOTE: The temperature control valve directs warm coolant to the transmission fluid cooler/warmer mounted on the transmission during transmission warm-up and allows the coolant to bypass the warmer when the transmission fluid reaches normal operating temperature. NOTE: At 38°C (100°F) ambient temperature, amber arrows indicate temperature approximately 82°C (179°F). only affects transmission warmup afaik. not a big deal if you don't live in a wintry state. may set a code or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 It's throwing a wrench on the display, but I think I damaged the petcock when replacing the valve. Probably a small leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 I hardwired the HCV. Heat is working again. Leak was the petcock. All working now. Thanks guys! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikgrad Posted October 19, 2021 Report Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/6/2021 at 11:41 PM, Jstrem75 said: I changed out the heater control valve but it's it's wrong part. The pigtail is a 2012, not a 2013. I disconnected it and I have heat now. Not sure the long term effects of having it unplugged until the right part comes in I had a question, having the same problem. Did you unplug the bad control valve, and have heat working? Or did you install the new one with the wrong pigtail, and leave that one unplugged? In trying to troubleshoot, I unplugged my bad one, and maybe got a slight bump in warmth... but not much. Trying to determine whether I can actually troubleshoot whether it is the HCV simply by unplugging it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jstrem75 Posted October 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, erikgrad said: I had a question, having the same problem. Did you unplug the bad control valve, and have heat working? Or did you install the new one with the wrong pigtail, and leave that one unplugged? In trying to troubleshoot, I unplugged my bad one, and maybe got a slight bump in warmth... but not much. Trying to determine whether I can actually troubleshoot whether it is the HCV simply by unplugging it? I installed the new HCV with the wrong pigtail, and left it unplugged. The old HCV was closed and would not allow coolant to travel to the heater core. By default, the new HCV is open, so it allowed circulation. I decided to ignore the new part and engineer a waterproof connector. After doing so, I hard-wired the new pigtail, rubber-sealed it, and soldered/shrinkwrapped the wires. Works 100%! The long-term effects of having the HCV unplugged is constant coolant circulation into the heater core. It makes the cab a little warmer and can only causes issues if the heater core has a leak. It will also put a wrench on the display, but it doesn't hurt or have any negative effects on the engine. The 2012 HCV and the 2013 HCV have different plugs. If you buy an HCV, make sure you get the correct one. A hose clamp tool makes installation simple. It takes about 5-10 minutes after draining the radiator coolant. The attached photo is the 2012 HCV plug. THIS WILL NOT WORK ON A 2013. The 2013 has a smaller square connector. Edited October 20, 2021 by Jstrem75 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ces177 Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 My edge is a 2015 2.0l and heater air is cool. I’m not seeing any valve for heater or AC or trans. It’s a pain to find parts for this car…. Went to ford parts and had to get verification on a crankcase sensor hose. Don’t want to bug the service parts guy. Anyone know what part this is for the 2015 edge 2.0l? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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