Cold Air Intake Edge ST & Sport 2.7EB

[Duece McCracken]

19 minutes ago, Xtra said:

It would be only the top half,  the part you see. The rest would remain the same. It would add more cost than complexity and this project is already  pushing the cost limits as it is IMO. 

 

Lol, well hellz yeah then. 2,500 dollar intake to go get groceries!!

 

 

 

[Xtra]

I finished the prototype V3 lid . It has the elbow reducers , sensor and aux air ports all sorted out. I just have to figure out where I am going to hook up the other end of the  aux air hose. And how to route it, and how to it is going to attach  This aux air feature may be an option as I believe it is not necessary on an untuned car. The V3 moves a lot more air than stock with less restriction.  Optional on a tuned car and defiantly should be used on a modded car. Turbos ,FMAC that kind of stuff. It adds cost and labor and could be difficult to run the hose and install.  So that is why I am thinking optional, not everyone may want it or need it. 

 

                                                               

Edited May 23, 2021 by Xtra

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

the aux tube would be useful at the track for sure if someone wanted to go that route.  route it down to the DRL/fog lamp area.  keep it closed for the street to prevent dirt/water intrusion from there.

 

true CF is expensive, most would likely be happy with hydrodipped parts.  true CF would be a showpiece, a Concours item.

 

[Xtra]

9 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

the aux tube would be useful at the track for sure if someone wanted to go that route.  route it down to the DRL/fog lamp area.  keep it closed for the street to prevent dirt/water intrusion from there.

 

true CF is expensive, most would likely be happy with hydrodipped parts.  true CF would be a showpiece, a Concours item.

 

Have considered routing that way. Cutting the hole in the air box and fabricating the aluminum tube is difficult and time consuming. I had to make a tool to cut that hole. 

And I am talking about true CF   No aux air with the CF though. You are on your own with that mod   LOL.

Edited May 23, 2021 by Xtra

[Duece McCracken]

2 hours ago, Xtra said:

Have considered routing that way. Cutting the hole in the air box and fabricating the aluminum tube is difficult and time consuming. I had to make a tool to cut that hole. 

And I am talking about true CF   No aux air with the CF though. You are on your own with that mod   LOL.

 

Oh noes!!! I guess im busting out the carbide cutters.

[Xtra]

Duece, the reason is, that it is difficult to cut such a odd shaped hole. It is anything but round and although the jig I built to drill the hole into air box lid was strong it still allowed enough movement to scratch a delicate polished gelcoat like that on CF. If I can get it sorted and feel brave I might take a chance,  but one little slip and I just bought a lid. There is so much hand work in this aux air for something so simple. 

 

This is the AuxAir intake tube .  It was difficult to cut this shape and bend the tab for the rivet. I have made a cardboard pattern that should help with the next one. 

 

Here it is installed .To cut the hole for the tube it starts through the front of the air box, then the angle, then the lid some. The aluminum tube is cut to follow those lines.  

 

Here is the sensor and aux air mounts all sealed air tight. The aux air input tube is cut this way so air is directed to the top of the air filter, while the snorkel air comes in from the bottom.  This allows for 360* air input into the filter. 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Xtra

[CrackedDSM]

Honestly incredible. Seriously though, planning to do a snorkel too? Something like the big mouth snorkel but designed to work with your v1/v2 lid? If you could design it to snap in place of the drivers side top few AGS shudders that would be amazing!

[MSCOSC]

You should make the auxiliary air port mate to the back of the v2 lid some how. 

 

Or even forgo the factory snorkel and make the aux line larger and feed into where the factory snorkel goes. 

Edited May 24, 2021 by MSCOSC

[enigma-2]

Stop pussy-footing around. Just go full hog

 

https://ironman4x4america.com/snorkels/snorkel-kits/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_UUP0q4--XxbWkqcqruXf9Yz36TWe8hk7nWVOeqfFdqVsAnqNWOTtMaAkYhEALw_wcB

[Xtra]

 

1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

Stop pussy-footing around. Just go full hog

 

https://ironman4x4america.com/snorkels/snorkel-kits/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_UUP0q4--XxbWkqcqruXf9Yz36TWe8hk7nWVOeqfFdqVsAnqNWOTtMaAkYhEALw_wcB

I assume you're planning to run off-road in some very dusty places and cross some deep water. If so that is a good choice 

[Xtra]

13 hours ago, CrackedDSM said:

Honestly incredible. Seriously though, planning to do a snorkel too? Something like the big mouth snorkel but designed to work with your v1/v2 lid? If you could design it to snap in place of the drivers side top few AGS shudders that would be amazing!

The snorkel is matched to the slot in the bulkhead perfectly,  there is no reason to change it. If the slot in the bulkhead was cut and modified into a larger shape only then it would be necessary to also change the snorkel. I am trying to keep the design as a swap out with no cutting anyplace or removal of the shutters. If I wanted to build a race intake it would look much different as there would be mods that would be irreversible . Because in some states any messing with the intake is a not allowed, the V3 must be able to swap back to the OEM stock configuration for smog certification. That is why some of the things I do may seem conservative. Heck If the V3 was for race only, the gloves would be off. Thanks for the idea I need the feedback. 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Xtra

[Duece McCracken]

6 minutes ago, Xtra said:

The snorkel is matched to the slot in the bulkhead perfectly,  there is no reason to change it. If the slot in the bulkhead was cut and modified into a larger shape only then it would be necessary to also change the snorkel. I am trying to keep the design as a swap out with no cutting anyplace or removal of the shutters. If I wanted to build a race intake it would look much different as there would be mods that would be irreversible . Because in some states any messing with the intake is a not allowed, the V3 must be able to swap back to the OEM stock configuration for smog certification. That is why some of the things I do may seem conservative. Heck If the V3 was for race only, the gloves would be off. Thanks for the idea I need the feedback. 

 

So there's a V4 race edition? I'm down! ?

 

Im shutterless and have many cutting tools. Lol

[Xtra]

These  photos show  just how not round and complex the aux air hole is from the side, but from the front it is round. 

 

 

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

18 hours ago, Duece McCracken said:

 

So there's a V4 race edition? I'm down! ?

 

Im shutterless and have many cutting tools. Lol

When you talk of race only mods the gloves come off. Things like cutting holes in the hood or body 

 

 

This screen air intake is in the correct location, but it is fake, it is just taped on for fun. It can be made to function and is compatible with the V3. No long twisting hose that has to be squashed to pass through small places. It is a short straight shot into the Air Box, and would make approximately 60% more air available as seen here. Plenty for all but the most hard core.  An even larger hole and hose ( the next size up) would over double the air available .  Yes, it would allow water to get into the system, a cover would have to be made to keep out the rain, snow and to wash the car. I am not going to do  this as part of the V3 project.. I mention because  it is a race only type mod and that was the subject being discussed.

Edited May 25, 2021 by Xtra

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

So, you are going the plugin hybrid route then.

[Xtra]

6 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

So, you are going the plugin hybrid route then.

Your right it is in the same place and kind of looks like a plug-in lol ? . That was not my intention I was interested in finding the shortest most direct line to the air box that was accessible and doable with racing in mind. Several other people completely remove or punch holes in the left headlight when at the track. Both those mods let water in and wouldn’t work so well on the street, but are temporary. My mod keeps both headlights in place and working so it would work on the street, and it looks like a plug-in . You do have to cut a hole in your fender so it is permanent . Who would be willing do that even if it makes  HP and looks good? 

Edited May 25, 2021 by Xtra

[Duece McCracken]

5 minutes ago, Xtra said:

Your right it is in the same place and kind of looks like a plug-in lol ? . That was not my intention I was interested in finding the shortest most direct line to the air box that was accessible and doable with racing in mind. Several other people completely remove or punch holes in the left headlight when at the track. Both those mods let water in and wouldn’t work so well on the street, but are temporary. My mod keeps both headlights in place and working so it would work on the street, and it looks like a plug-in . You do have to cut a hole in your fender so it is a permanent mod, and would do that?

 

Maybe pipe into the top of the wheel well liner instead? It would introduce a bend, but wouldnt be as externally sensitive.

[Xtra]

34 minutes ago, Duece McCracken said:

 

Maybe pipe into the top of the wheel well liner instead? It would introduce a bend, but wouldnt be as externally sensitive.

Smart ?,  great minds, I like it. ?

[CrackedDSM]

19 hours ago, Xtra said:

The snorkel is matched to the slot in the bulkhead perfectly,  there is no reason to change it. If the slot in the bulkhead was cut and modified into a larger shape only then it would be necessary to also change the snorkel. I am trying to keep the design as a swap out with no cutting anyplace or removal of the shutters. If I wanted to build a race intake it would look much different as there would be mods that would be irreversible . Because in some states any messing with the intake is a not allowed, the V3 must be able to swap back to the OEM stock configuration for smog certification. That is why some of the things I do may seem conservative. Heck If the V3 was for race only, the gloves would be off. Thanks for the idea I need the feedback. 

 

not the oem snorkel, I mean the after market design that extends it into the grill area infront of the radiator. 
 

this thing. https://www.velossatechdesign.com/products/2018-2019-ford-edge-st-ram-air-big-mouth-w-flare-intake-snorkel?variant=30288825712697&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2021-03-17&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign

 

 

 I’m about ready to buy it anyway but I really don’t want to delete my AGS on the radiator. So what I meant was can you make something like this that clips onto the stock snorkel and extends to the top two shudders on the OEM AGS. I’d be way more willing to delete a couple shudders instead of the whole thing. I may just rig something up myself but it won’t be pretty. 

[Xtra]

10 hours ago, CrackedDSM said:

not the oem snorkel, I mean the after market design that extends it into the grill area infront of the radiator. 
 

So what I meant was can you make something like this that clips onto the stock snorkel . 

Yes I understand. The big gulp intake you are talking about still empties into that same slot in the bulkhead that the V2 does. The V2  does same thing , but it uses ram air from across the entire grill and sends it over the top of the radiator. If you do the mod on page one of the Fresh air intake thread to your grill and install an V2 intake you are moving as much air as that slot can handle. And you get to keep your shutters.

 

Unfortunately I have no plans to make something like that. as I feel that it is unnecessary when the V2 is installed with the grill mod. The V2 does fit 2015 , but if you have an ST then the big gulp might be your only choice. 

Edited May 26, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Working on the wood base for the mold.  Bondo putty is used to seal up any vacuum leaks. The vacuum hose attachment is in place, and all the holes have been drilled. All that is left to do is sanding, applying a finish coat and bolting the mold onto the base.  It was designed from the beginning get 18 parts from one sheet of ABS. If it was just 1/2 inch larger in any direction then we could only get ten parts per sheet.  The design, math and forethought put into this simple box equates to big savings.

 

 

Edited May 26, 2021 by Xtra

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

savings AND performance.  can't beat that!

[Xtra]

Completed the wood base part, and just waiting for the finish to dry. At that point it will be ready for final assembly.

Edited May 27, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Decided to see how much time I am investing into each part of the air box.  Because the sensor mount design is  finalized, I started with them . The tubes are press fit with a one ton arbor press, though I may add a tack weld just to be sure.  Each one of these little buggers averaged 20 minutes to fabricate. I made 12 of them and cleaned them up some beyond this photo. . 

 

Edited May 28, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

The mold for the V3 bottom half is complete.  No more fiberglass work. well for awhile anyway. 

 It still needs to be tested to see if it makes the part I need fits. But I have high hopes as I have been down this road before. It will have to wait until another batch of V2s are made and I can get those CF units shipped. I don't want to pay for setup fees going back and forth between the molds. I found out today that the CF has been made and is ready to ship, so I better get on to refurbishing the V2 mold... OMG it was a much shorter time away from fiberglass work than I thought. lol.   ?

Edited May 28, 2021 by Xtra