Cold Air Intake Edge ST & Sport 2.7EB

[Xtra]

As I said I was on a roll. Decided to remove the V3 and check everything out . The insulation does not have a strong glue on the back and it was coming loose in a couple spots. Otherwise everything checked out fine. 

 

 

I found out some install tricks and also found out you can check the filter with removing the entire unit. 

 

 

 

As long as I had the top off I decided to try out the other top with the aux air intake on it.  Then did a Saturday night test drive, 

Edited October 3, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

JUst thought i should post a daytime photo 

 

 

I tried an expensive SS clamp on the flex hose, but the simple double wire clamp worked best.

The car likes the added air but it feels like it could use a tune to get the most from it.

If I was to do a resonator delete 2.5 in exhaust system then it would definitely need a new tune for sure..

Edited October 4, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Just waiting for more parts to arrive. Will update when work resumes. 

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

It is looking GOOOOD!

[Xtra]

These are the clamps I tested on the Aux Air intake hose. As the hose is corrugated, it turns out that the double wire clamp is best. The double wire clamp applies pressure where the hose touches the tube, and holds tight. The larger SS T-Bolt hose clamp applied pressure at the top where the wire is in the hose, and that allowed the hose to slip off. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Started the next step in finishing the Bottom Patch.

 

Here I have trimmed and drilled a hole for the feet.

 

After this I will use that heat gun to modify the Bottom Patch to final shape. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Here are all 5 of the Bottom Patches ready to install. 

 

All the holes have been drilled, and used the heat gun to hand form them to their final shape. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Xtra

[TT Steve]

18 hours ago, Xtra said:

These are the clamps I tested on the Aux Air intake hose. As the hose is corrugated, it turns out that the double wire clamp is best. The double wire clamp applies pressure where the hose touches the tube, and holds tight. The larger SS T-Bolt hose clamp applied pressure at the top where the wire is in the hose, and that allowed the hose to slip off. 

 

I have had heated debates about T bolts and their use. I personally prefer the worm clamp style but not your normal ones. I have used these for quite awhile with great success. 

 

https://www.flatironstuning.com/turbosmart-murray-constant-tension-clamps

 

[Xtra]

More parts arrived today .

 

 

Air IntakeTemp sensor for the V3 Air Box. 

Edited October 8, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

I have decided that I will not supply the Air filter with the V3. As the filter costs around $73 each, it will save me from investing another $365. And the lucky ones that obtain a V3 can order their filter on line, and  choose if they want it to be wet or dry . Of course I will supply the links, so it is just a click away.  There is no way I can invest in ten filters about $730 .. 5 wet and 5 dry so people would have a choice when ordering, then have 5 filters left over that I would have to return.

 

 I am also considering that the insulation be optional, as it is easy enough for most people to do and it lowers the overall cost.  I will still install the insulation for those that want, but I did not like the Thermo-Tec backing because it did not stick that well, and I don't want to be responsible for another companies bad glue. I would have to try another brand and who knows if that would be any better? By not suppling the filter and insulation it lowers my material costs by around $140 each, thats $700 for all 5.  The customer also saves on my labor charge of installing the insulation. I will supply directions, and give some tips I picked up when doing mine for those who DIY. 

 Material costs so far for the first run of V3 is getting up there and approaching $2, 000 fast. I am doing my best to keep the price as low as possible and I hope that this update is not too much of an inconvenience or scare people away. 

Edited October 9, 2021 by Xtra

[onyxbfly]

[TT Steve]

@Xtra I have used DEI Reflect-A-Gold on my Hayabusa airbox. It has the same type of sticky backing and works probably as good or maybe better than you experienced. I really cleaned the plastic well with Isopropyl alcohol. Still not perfect but unless you want to put on a more permanent glue, it works well enough. It worked reflectiing heat as per my not quite scientific findings.

 

I will be trying a new reflective tape that is supposed to be better but I have my doubts. I got it for the stock airbox originally but will try it on the new box.

 

EDIT: Found some pics

Edited October 9, 2021 by TT Steve

[Xtra]

On 10/8/2021 at 8:59 PM, TT Steve said:

@Xtra I have used DEI Reflect-A-Gold on my Hayabusa airbox. It has the same type of sticky backing and works probably as good or maybe better than you experienced. I really cleaned the plastic well with Isopropyl alcohol. Still not perfect but unless you want to put on a more permanent glue, it works well enough. It worked reflectiing heat as per my not quite scientific findings.

 

I will be trying a new reflective tape that is supposed to be better but I have my doubts. I got it for the stock airbox originally but will try it on the new box.

 

 

 

TY Steve, thanks for sharing your experience with this insulation. It looks good with the golden finish, like something from NASA,  and appears to be more flexible and stick better than the Thermo.Tec. I will look into it. 
 

Thermo-Tec is good for reflection of over 90 percent of the heat to  2,000*  and can take up to 300* in direct contact . The specs are great, The glue not so much. 

Edited October 14, 2021 by Xtra

[Duece McCracken]

On 10/9/2021 at 11:27 AM, Xtra said:

TY Steve, thanks for sharing your experience with this insulation. It looks good with the golden finish, like something from NASA,  and appears to be more flexible and stick better than the Thermo.Tec. I will look into it. 
 

Thermo-Tec is good for reflection of over 90 percent of the heat to  1,000* + , and can take up to 300* in direct contact . The specs are great, The glue not so much. 

 

 

If I recall correctly, you use Acetone as a cleaner/surface prep before you apply the thermal insulation, something about it changing the character of the polymer of the airbox and allowing a better bond. I had thermo wrapped the airbox in my Focus ST, and besides a little corner touch up, it held great for a real long time.

[TT Steve]

33 minutes ago, Duece McCracken said:

 

 

If I recall correctly, you use Acetone as a cleaner/surface prep before you apply the thermal insulation, something about it changing the character of the polymer of the airbox and allowing a better bond. I had thermo wrapped the airbox in my Focus ST, and besides a little corner touch up, it held great for a real long time.

 

Acetone is great for preparing surfaces for any adhesive. I usually use that a lot but since I go through it so fast and didn't have it handy I had to use what was available (Isopropyl alcohol) which is also excellent for plastic.

[Xtra]

I agree that surface prep is an important and necessary step to applying the insulation.  First, I used a dry clean rag to remove any dust, then cleaned the surface with a fresh rag and acetone before installing the insulation. Perhaps I received an older batch as I have not heard of Thermo-Tec ever having this problem before. It is absoullutly necessary for the insulation to be there to protect the thermoplastic used to create the BottomPatch, and I don't want anyone  to use the intake without that  patch being protected. So... I am up in the air undecided as if to leave the insulation for the customer to install or not. 

Edited October 11, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

This tool I made determined the angle  of the mandral bent tubes  that are used to fabric the Elbow Reducers. 

 

Used some scrap aluminum and created this. 

I cut the ends  to form a point that a I use on the centerline .  Just point to the start and the finish of the bend and read the angle. 

 

 

Once the angel is set on the tool  A cheap plastic protractor displays the angel accurately . 

This is a 45* angel being demonstrated. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Xtra
Wow that needed a redo.,. Lol ?

[Xtra]

The Snorkel Adaptor Patch laid out, and  getting ready to be cut out. 

 

The master templet is the part that says “fold” on it. There are starter holes drilled where the snorkel goes and you can see my trusty air saw. I love that saw, it is my go to tool when rough cutting the ABS to shape. 

 

 

 

Some more parts came in today.  This is what I use to seal the V3 air tight. It takes an entire tube to do one V3.  

Edited October 12, 2021 by Xtra

[TT Steve]

3 hours ago, Xtra said:

I agree that surface prep is an important and necessary step to applying the insulation.  First, I used a dry clean rag to remove any dust, then cleaned the surface with a fresh rag and acetone before installing the insulation. Perhaps I received an older batch as I have not heard of Thermo-Tec ever having this problem before. It is absoullutly necessary for the insulation to be there to protect the thermoplastic used to create the BottomPatch, and I don't want anyone  to use the intake without that  patch being protected. So... I am up in the air undecided as if to leave the insulation for the customer to install or not. 

 

I would be happy to put on my own insulation. Done it to several vehicles for many friends over the years. 

[Xtra]

2 hours ago, TT Steve said:

 

I would be happy to put on my own insulation. Done it to several vehicles for many friends over the years. 

I am easy and if someone can DIY then it’s all good. It just is something that has to be done and can’t be skipped. I will take it up on an individual basis. ??

Edited October 12, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Parts are starting to arrive almost daily now. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

Cut out the Snorkel Adaptor Plates today.

 

 

Rough cut out with the air saw.

 

 

  Snorkel Adaptor Plates finished and ready for the heat gun to bend into shape. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Xtra

[Xtra]

After testing with the secondary air inlet. I believe all the V3s should have it. Using just the stock snorkel,  a high flow filter and insulation helped a lot , but when the lid with the secondary air inlet was added I could feel a pronounced difference in power and the engine sounded smoother. I can say with confidence that the secondary air inlet along with the V2 will make the V3 project unique and perform better than any other CAI system currently on the market for the Edge 2.7EB platform.  I am looking at two different options to collect the air.. First is the way I am running now, it is not ideal, but so far it is working great, and is easy to install. My butt-o- meter says my 91 tune now feels more like my 93 tune. .The second way is more difficult to install, and has direct access to ram air. I have not developed the adapter to the ram air part yet.  The way I am running now is ready to go. Some of the parts to develop ram air secondary inlet are arriving today. I am attempting to design it so one can use the simple way until the ram air set up is ready,  then just re-run the hose and attach the ram air adapter and keep everything compatible. 

Edited October 14, 2021 by Xtra

[TT Steve]

1 hour ago, Xtra said:

After testing with the secondary air inlet. I believe all the V3s will have it. Using just the stock snorkel,  a high flow filter and insulation helped a lot , but when the lid with the secondary air inlet was added I could feel a pronounced difference in power and the engine sounded smoother. I can say with confidence that the secondary air inlet along with the V2 will make the V3 project unique and perform better than any other CAI system currently on the market for the Edge 2.7EB platform.  I am looking at two different options to collect the air.. First is the way I am running now, it is not ideal, but so far it is working great, and is easy to install. My butt-o- meter says my 91 tune now feels more like my 93 tune. .The second way is more difficult to install, and has direct access to ram air. I have not developed the adapter to the ram air part yet.  The way I am running now is ready to go. Some of the parts to develop ram air secondary inlet are arriving today. I am attempting to design it so one can use the simple way until the ram air set up is ready,  then just re-run the hose and attach the ram air adapter and keep everything compatible. 

 

I personally do not want that secondary air inlet. I am working something else for this airbox. 

[Xtra]

No worries, every V3 is hand made to order, and because my operation is so small, it is no problem to accommodate any reasonable request.