At 180,000 miles......

[PrinzII]

.....the A/C compressor goes out AGAIN. This time there is a burning smell which means the clutch has gone south. I am open to suggestions to a decently priced new compressor or a junkyard that may have a 2011-2014 Edge with the 3.5L V6.

[PrinzII]

Update: I found a compressor from an MKX for $72 (31k miles on it).  I am also shopping for the belts to replace them while I am at it.

[PrinzII]

Update:

It's a wrap with my 2011.  Turns out there are more issues than previously listed.  I am in the process of getting a 2018 SEL that is fully loaded (Price could not be beat).....Stay tuned.

Edited November 20, 2020 by PrinzII

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

avoid a 2.0 built in Cleveland/420 lot

looking forward to details on your new ride!

[Edgingage]

Hi folks:

 

I have the same model: 2011 SEL (3.5L V6) just around 122K miles, and I'm sorry (and of course worried) about what happened to PrinzII, ...twice!

 

I wonder: Is there any preventive/preventative maintenance that can/should be done on the A/C compressor?  I'm noticing when mine is on cycling, it engages a little bit longer every cycle, I can see (measure) the voltage going down with every cycle (idling, of course), "eating" up the battery voltage.  I spent quite some time observing the compressor going on and off, and I got the impression that it has to work harder, longer, drawing more current on every cycle coming on.

 

I tried to lubricate/dress the belt going around (outside) the compressor, but I couldn't find an open spot to get to it (I did lubricate the main engine belt, with belt dressing).

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, advise to help prevent the compressor to going out, or even to run smoother?

 

Thanks in advance.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I would make sure to exercise it regularly, yes, even in winter time.  Beyond that, check on the belt/tensioner, check refrigerant/PAG oil level, leaks.  IDK if you can do more.

 

Don't dress the belt, change it.

Edited November 19, 2020 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[Edgingage]

In my vehicle the compressor comes on automatically, even in winter time.  I don't know why but it does.  I actually wanted to have the option to turn it on or off when I want (because of other issue related to battery drainage), but I can't fully control when the compressor goes on or off.

 

One (stupid) question: are the compressor and condenser the same thing?  Is there a condenser in these vehicles?

 

I'll ask the dealer to check on the belt/tensioner and replace if necessary (I don't know at how many mileage should be replaced...).  I'll also ask them to check refrigerant/PAG oil levels.  Some times I'm afraid to ask them to "touch" what seems to be working so far...

 

I can't see/notice any leaks around or surround.

 

Thanks a lot for your advice, always greatly appreciated.

[akirby]

2 hours ago, Edgingage said:

In my vehicle the compressor comes on automatically, even in winter time.  I don't know why but it does.  I actually wanted to have the option to turn it on or off when I want (because of other issue related to battery drainage), but I can't fully control when the compressor goes on or off.

 

One (stupid) question: are the compressor and condenser the same thing?  Is there a condenser in these vehicles?

 

I'll ask the dealer to check on the belt/tensioner and replace if necessary (I don't know at how many mileage should be replaced...).  I'll also ask them to check refrigerant/PAG oil levels.  Some times I'm afraid to ask them to "touch" what seems to be working so far...

 

I can't see/notice any leaks around or surround.

 

Thanks a lot for your advice, always greatly appreciated.

Compressor is what runs off the engine belt and generates the high pressure.  The high pressure gas goes to the Condenser behind the radiator where it releases the heat to the air before sending it back into the vehicle through the expansion valve where it cools before going to the evaporator coil and blower.

 

The reason the compressor runs in winter is twofold: one is to keep the system lubricated and the other is to dehumidify the air.  This keeps the windows from fogging up when it’s wet outside.  The system still warms  the air after it’s been dehumidified so it’s not a problem.

[Edgingage]

Akirby, thank you VERY MUCH for your explanation.  I have some further questions, if you wouldn't mind, please, and maybe also to pick your brain with something that has been bugging me for a very long time, please:

 

I was going to upload a picture of my compressor but I found one in the internet much better, specially for what I want to ask and talk about.  Please see attached picture.

 

The wheel (poly?) where the belt goes around is normally constantly running (that's the way it's supposed, I know) and I have not (visible) problem with that (other than I couldn't find an opening underneath the car to spray some belt dressing).  Now, the thing that it's just at front of that wheel, and I think it gets inside that wheel, is what turns on and off.  Reading from the picture I guess/assume that's the clutch, correct? (please correct me as I'm illiterate about mechanics).

 

That thing that goes on and off (clutch?) is where I think I have a problem: when it's cycling it gets harder to turn/run and longer to run/complete the cycle.  I first noticed it when being idle I saw the rpm gauge in the cluster panel going down to almost 0.5 x 1000 rpm, which it's not bad EXCEPT that I actually noticed/felt it because the car was making some trembles as if it's going to suddenly stop (it has never stopped btw).  A couple of times I've connected one of those BA7 battery testers and measured the current (battery voltage) while the compressor was on (I actually made a video the second time I measured it but I don't think I can posted here; please let me know if I can send it to you, or anyone else interested, somehow).  Anyway, this second time, when I started measuring the voltage, the BA7 was oscillating picking up to 14.29 volts when the clutch (?) was not running and picking down to 12.09 after the clutch was engaged cycling on.  I couldn't capture those exact pick readings but you can get the idea.

 

Also, I can see the BA7 displaying the green/good battery when the clutch was not on and the changing to yellow/weak battery when the clutch was engaged in the cycle.  I'm going to try to post pictures of that (not sure how many pictures I can upload in a single post).

 

Anyway, if you (or anyone else) feel(s) like giving your opinion, please do so, I'll greatly appreciate it.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited November 21, 2020 by Edgingage

[PrinzII]

On 11/19/2020 at 6:27 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

avoid a 2.0 built in Cleveland/420 lot

looking forward to details on your new ride!

I did avoid a 4 cylinder altogether.  Mine has a 3.5L V6.  It's also Burgundy Velvet.  This makes the 2nd car in the burgundy family I have owned.  The first was a Caprice.

[PrinzII]

On 11/19/2020 at 8:05 AM, Edgingage said:

Hi folks:

 

I have the same model: 2011 SEL (3.5L V6) just around 122K miles, and I'm sorry (and of course worried) about what happened to PrinzII, ...twice!

 

I wonder: Is there any preventive/preventative maintenance that can/should be done on the A/C compressor?  I'm noticing when mine is on cycling, it engages a little bit longer every cycle, I can see (measure) the voltage going down with every cycle (idling, of course), "eating" up the battery voltage.  I spent quite some time observing the compressor going on and off, and I got the impression that it has to work harder, longer, drawing more current on every cycle coming on.

 

I tried to lubricate/dress the belt going around (outside) the compressor, but I couldn't find an open spot to get to it (I did lubricate the main engine belt, with belt dressing).

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, advise to help prevent the compressor to going out, or even to run smoother?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

You also have to consider the extreme heat where I am is also a factor.  The day it croaked, it was 115 degrees out.