Misfire Cylinder 1

[16Sport]

Wife was hooning on her vehicle today and said the Check Engine light came on and was flashing. It went away when she slowed down and was gone when she came home. When she got home I scanned it and got Misfire Cylinder 1 code.

 

2016 Edge Sport 2.7TT

It is tuned with LMS 91 tune, has about 50,000 miles

 

• I'm not super familiar with this platform, but is this usually just a spark plug issue?
• Also, is there a visual on how the cylinders are numbered on this engine?

 

Thanks!

[omar302]

Found this included in the attached file:

 

Engine - Overview 27L.pdf

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

May just need new plugs.  Tuned vehicles burn up plugs a lot faster than stock.  No other codes, right?

 

The arrow in the diagram points to the belt side of the engine, or the "front" of the engine.

[jamie1073]

If it has been tuned for a lot of those 50,000 miles than I would absolutely check the plugs.  My Focus ST even with the stock tune would need to have the Gap on the plugs checked every 10,000 miles because the Gap would open up on two plugs and cause a slight miss.  Does not hurt to check them and check the Gap on them.  I plan on pulling mine on the ST around 15,000, I have 13,000 on it now and have run the LMS 93 tune for the last 10,000.

[16Sport]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

UPDATE:

- I had cleared the code and she hadnt had an issue since. I was going to check the plugs but didnt have time.

 

-Fast forward to today when she was driving home, the car started hesitating and shuddering under partial throttle (40-60mph). It doesnt happen under harder acceleration or if it downshifts. Im thinking the increased load of being in 6th while at low rpm is doing it. I put the car back on the stock tune and I can still get it to happen, but it's much harder to get it to happen on the stock tune. It's not throwing any codes. I'm going to bite the bullet and check plugs tonight. 

 

Do these symptoms seem normal for a spark/coil issue or should I be checking something else?

Thanks for the help everyone!

[Special_K]

13 hours ago, 16Sport said:

Thanks for the replies everyone.

UPDATE:

- I had cleared the code and she hadnt had an issue since. I was going to check the plugs but didnt have time.

 

-Fast forward to today when she was driving home, the car started hesitating and shuddering under partial throttle (40-60mph). It doesnt happen under harder acceleration or if it downshifts. Im thinking the increased load of being in 6th while at low rpm is doing it. I put the car back on the stock tune and I can still get it to happen, but it's much harder to get it to happen on the stock tune. It's not throwing any codes. I'm going to bite the bullet and check plugs tonight. 

 

Do these symptoms seem normal for a spark/coil issue or should I be checking something else?

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Do you have logging capability?

[jamie1073]

14 hours ago, 16Sport said:

Thanks for the replies everyone.

UPDATE:

- I had cleared the code and she hadnt had an issue since. I was going to check the plugs but didnt have time.

 

-Fast forward to today when she was driving home, the car started hesitating and shuddering under partial throttle (40-60mph). It doesnt happen under harder acceleration or if it downshifts. Im thinking the increased load of being in 6th while at low rpm is doing it. I put the car back on the stock tune and I can still get it to happen, but it's much harder to get it to happen on the stock tune. It's not throwing any codes. I'm going to bite the bullet and check plugs tonight. 

 

Do these symptoms seem normal for a spark/coil issue or should I be checking something else?

Thanks for the help everyone!

On my FoST I had that happen and it was the plugs, the gap had widened way out of spec so it would miss.  Of course it could also be a coil pack going bad as well but the plugs is where I would start. 

[16Sport]

6 hours ago, Special_K said:

 

Do you have logging capability?

 

I have the LMS handheld, but I'm not sure what PIDs it has the ability to datalog, nor have I tried logging with it.

 

I tried looking at the gauges and picking different ones to watch while I was replicating the issue, but I'm not 100% certain on the naming for each PID gauge.

 

I do have the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD2 adapter which I use on a different vehicle for digital gauges, but I'd have to know which PIDs to log.

[16Sport]

Okay, found the problem. I just pulled the front 3 plugs and one is missing the grounding strap and part of the insulator. I'm guessing detonation, can't wait to see what the back 3 look like.

 

So what is the right plug to be running? Parts store have me SP-578 and it looks like ILTR7N8 are the plugs that are in currently.

 

From what I read, the 1 step colder NGK plug is pregapped to .044 and in order to gap it to .031 youd be "out of spec" for what the grounding strap is rated for.

[THE_BOLT]

I have a 2016 sport that I only run 93 octane gas in it no matter if I have a tune loaded or not.  I just posted the crazy exhaust sound one. The first time I replaced my plugs at 36,000 miles... cylinder 1 and 4 spark plugs were missing their ground strap...the vehicle was acting up with the check engine light lightly flashing and going away.  Also it was about a week or so after I had a BG intake cleaning done.   Today I'm currently at 70,300 miles and just changed the plugs hours ago with the new updated ones...so far the rough idle, bacon sizzle and vibration that sounds like life flight is flying over your house is gone.   

[jamie1073]

I know on the FoST you had to gap them with a slightly smaller gap than factory spec and it was recommended that you run a step colder plug with a tune. .027 instead of .032 if I recall. 

Edited February 16, 2020 by jamie1073

[Gmandude]

I always did NGK but really feel like I have better times with the OEM. Was the OEM gapped at .032 I take it? 

[Metroplex]

Any updates on this?

My 2.7 EcoBoost has given me problems mainly on Cylinder 6. After a cold start (let's say ambient is between 40F and 70F) if I get on the gas too aggressively at a busy road near my home and come to a stop, it could start misfiring badly resulting in the flashing CEL with no power, or a stall out coming to a stop. If I take it easy until the ECT is about 150F and suddenly go WOT to merge onto the freeway (so technically the engine isn't fully warmed up at ECT 150F-170F) and let off the throttle, it will start stumbling, with a flashing CEL, and no power. It was limiting me to 55 mph the other day.

When the ambient temperature is hot (80F-100F) like all this summer, I never had any problems. I once did a test where I'd replicate the WOT scenario but with the engine fully warmed up. I'd smell a lot of stuff being burned in the engine, my guess is the oil and gunk from the turbos that build up in the intercooler. I drilled the 1/16" weep hole and always see a light coating of oil spraying out but still have this issue from time to time.

 

During a cold start (sub-zero ambient up to whatever) if I idle a long time, it will misfire between 1, 3, and 4 and as soon as the engine starts to warm up and kick it into low warmed up idle (600 RPM) the misfiring goes to cyl 6.

 

I changed new plugs last year and it smoothed it out for a few days until it started doing it again. I swapped coils as well to no avail.. Just curious if the OP's missing ground electrodes were a symptom of a problem.