MOON ROOF CONTROL LIGHTING

[RayoVac]

Sounds easy enough and now that I think back, I already had that unit down before... t should only take a matter of moments to identify the pins needed to supply voltage. I would think we could find the correct power as the day/night mirror wiring also feeds from up there. I do believe the day/night functionality only works with headlights on. I can also verify voltages present when lights on vs. lights off.

 

I already know from experience that the BAMR controls are not a good source for voltage as they are fed from a logic circuit of sorts. I tried to get power from the BAMR when I replaced my wife's mirror with a Homelink/Temp/DayNight mirror. I don't remember where I tapped for power to the mirror, I think I ended up running a wire down to the near the fuse panel and tapping a wire in one of the harnesses there.

 

Hopefully I can pull it tomorrow and give you some definitive answers.

[Lex Talionis]

Sounds easy enough and now that I think back, I already had that unit down before... t should only take a matter of moments to identify the pins needed to supply voltage. I would think we could find the correct power as the day/night mirror wiring also feeds from up there. I do believe the day/night functionality only works with headlights on. I can also verify voltages present when lights on vs. lights off.

 

I already know from experience that the BAMR controls are not a good source for voltage as they are fed from a logic circuit of sorts. I tried to get power from the BAMR when I replaced my wife's mirror with a Homelink/Temp/DayNight mirror. I don't remember where I tapped for power to the mirror, I think I ended up running a wire down to the near the fuse panel and tapping a wire in one of the harnesses there.

 

Hopefully I can pull it tomorrow and give you some definitive answers.

 

that would be awesome. clearly, you know a bit more about voltage meters and using them than I do. that is where I am stalled out at. I really thought all the tricks I tried would have revealed it to me by now, but I believe correct usage of a voltage meter can put this all to rest.

 

so, if you can, try to determine what pin(s) first, and where we can tap in to power.

 

thanks.

[awake33]

I didn't know so many people wanted to do this mod, I ordered the MKX part as soon as I got my Edge.

I like the color, it matches the interior better. Be careful if you order the MKX part, it's painted.

Mine came with a tiny bit of it rubbed off on one of the corners, you can see a pinhole light thru it at night.

 

 

 

The next two pictures are of the original part.

 

 

 

I don't recall for certain, and didn't want to disassemble to find out, which pins are which.

But I think pin 14 is ground and pin 1 needs a ground in order to light the LEDS.

So I soldered a very small wire jumper in between the two rows of pins on the side of

the PCB that has the molex connector.

 

I removed the blue w/red striped wire connector for the mirror from the molex connector

and soldered a jumper onto it for +12v. This was then run up through the stock sleeve

to the cavity behind the switch. I used a bullet connector on the end and soldered a short

jumper to directly to the connector side of the switch again, with the other half of the bullet

connector in case I ever need to remove the switch.

 

I appologize that I don't remember which pins are which, so be sure to test them yourself!

 

I used the +5 supply from my PC to test which pin needs the +12v, this way it wouldn't overload

the resistors if I had it connected the wrong way, but the LEDS still light up a little bit.

 

To see which pin is ground, with the switch still connected to the car but the PCB removed from the case,

tap into the +12v on the mirror and apply to the proper side of any single LED. At the same time, apply a jumper

to the other side of the LED while testing the pins of the connector with the other end for ground.

You can't hurt the LEDs from using the wrong polarity, it just won't light up.

 

I'll check back to see if anyone has any questions, as a side note I also installed HIDs and chrome

handles (for the MKX) without any issues if anyone has questions.

 

I've swapped out one LED in the center console to white, but stopped that project until I can figure out what to do with

the backlighting on the shifter. It appears to be electroluminescent and is encased in glass.

Edited August 25, 2008 by awake33

[Lex Talionis]

Hey thanks... first, why did you order the MKX part? just for the look of it? It seems the Edge one would work, so not sure why got the MKX part?

 

Yes, pin 14 is ground. Pin 1 is open, so you might be correct about it needing ground. But not sure where your applying power? I see where you are getting it (the mirror), but not applying it (to a pin)?

 

Q: Could ground just be taken from the existing ground by tapping into & running a jumper from the black wire in the gray pigtail/molex of pin 14 and then attached to pin 1. Then, power is taken by tapping into blue w/red striped wire on mirror but it is applied to what/where - that is what I am missing, is that what you have forgotten - are you implying you could run the ground to pin 1, and then just touch the mirror power jumper to the pins until you find which one lights the LEDs, obviously you would need headlights/power on to car as well or is the mirror power constant?

Edited August 25, 2008 by Lex Talionis

[McEdge]

Hey thanks... first, why did you order the MKX part? just for the look of it? It seems the Edge one would work, so not sure why got the MKX part?

 

Yes, pin 14 is ground. Pin 1 is open, so you might be correct about it needing ground. But not sure where your applying power? I see where you are getting it (the mirror), but not applying it (to a pin)?

 

Q: Could ground just be taken from the existing ground by tapping into & running a jumper from the black wire in the gray pigtail/molex of pin 14 and then attached to pin 1. Then, power is taken by tapping into blue w/red striped wire on mirror but it is applied to what/where - that is what I am missing, is that what you have forgotten - are you implying you could run the ground to pin 1, and then just touch the mirror power jumper to the pins until you find which one lights the LEDs, obviously you would need headlights/power on to car as well or is the mirror power constant?

 

I know you guys like the do-it-yourself route, but couldn't a dealer do this (if we were willing to pay of course)?

[securinu]

i doubt the dealer will touch it saying they wont re-engineer ford parts. they dont want the liability

[McEdge]

i doubt the dealer will touch it saying they wont re-engineer ford parts. they dont want the liability

 

That baffles me since my dealer works on both Ford and Lincoln-Mercury and the feature as it was reported works in the MKX.

[Lex Talionis]

i doubt the dealer will touch it saying they wont re-engineer ford parts. they dont want the liability

 

agreed.

 

plus I want to do it myself. plus I am not willing to pay. plus it is totally DIY. once we get passed this korny holdup with the pin determination, it will be and seem like a piece of cake to do this mod. there is a bit of maybe, possibly, perhaps right now, but this will break wide open soon and then, it will have been worth the few hours to hassle it out as the next guy will do in 20 minutes what I spent a few hours trying to do. there is certain fun in solving these projects (for me at least).

[Lex Talionis]

That baffles me since my dealer works on both Ford and Lincoln-Mercury and the feature as it was reported works in the MKX.

 

BUT the MKX is wired for it from the factory. The Edge is not, there in lies the rub... wiring

[awake33]

Nobody will ever convince a dealership to tap into wire harnesses to mod something, let alone solder wires to a switch.

There is absolutely no way to do this without some soldering, the harness does not have wires at all in the sockets for the pins that need GND and +12v.

That is unless you want to cut wires and/or buy the harness from the MKX, both routes requiring either extensive disassembly or voiding your warranty.

 

Lex, I thought it was obvious, I said I liked the color better, it matches my interior. Now there isn't a black void in the middle of all the tan.

 

You could tap into a harness for ground, but why cut into anything when you can just put a jumper that's 1/2" long right on the back of the switch?

 

And the power is connected to one of the pins, I don't recall which one. Just reverse the process I explained for finding which pin is ground to see which pin needs +12v.

It's trial and error, some pins will light half the board or 1 or 2 LEDs, only one lights them all.

[Lex Talionis]

There is absolutely no way to do this without some soldering, the harness does not have wires at all in the sockets for the pins that need GND and +12v.

I would, for the most part, tend to agree. I can think of ways around soldering, but that is not any concern to me. connections are easy, what to connect to is the question

 

Lex, I thought it was obvious, I said I liked the color better, it matches my interior. Now there isn't a black void in the middle of all the tan.

not totally, so I was just confirming

 

You could tap into a harness for ground, but why cut into anything when you can just put a jumper that's 1/2" long right on the back of the switch?

well, a push fit splice connector makes that hella easy & you can draw from a confirmed ground off wire to pin 14

 

And the power is connected to one of the pins, I don't recall which one. Just reverse the process I explained for finding which pin is ground to see which pin needs +12v. It's trial and error, some pins will light half the board or 1 or 2 LEDs, only one lights them all.

yes, that was what I was confirming that it was still, in the end, a bunch of trial and error and no one can definitively just say or recall or confirm yet: "ground pin 1 and run power to pin 2". so we are no further along just yet. so, I will do some of that continued trial and error now I did not have time for this weekend.

[Lex Talionis]

:happy feet: SOLVED :happy feet:

 

Here is the final solution!

 

------------------

 

Tie into blue wire w/red striped wire connector for the mirror up in the headliner - this is your power source

 

Tie into whatever ground you desire (metal connection in roof, black #14 pin wire, there is a metal bolt right there in roof) - this is your ground

 

Power source wire goes into pin hole #2

 

Ground wire goes into pin hole #1

 

You decide your own connections.

 

------------------

 

see my previous posts about location of said 2 critical pin holes and photos.

 

Thanks for the help and tip offs.... it allowed me to trial and error and piece it all together! Enjoy as it is a great, simple mod. knowing what I have here now, this is maybe a 15-20 minute mod well worth the effort. When you supply power to car, viola... you can now see the lights at night

 

Edited August 26, 2008 by Lex Talionis

[beston38st]

Lex -

 

I've been reading this with quite a bit of interest - thanks for solving it. If it's not too much trouble can you show a "final" picture of what the connections look like? I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire this up.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

:happy feet: SOLVED :happy feet:

 

Here is the final solution!

 

------------------

 

Tie into blue wire w/red striped wire connector for the mirror up in the headliner - this is your power source

 

Tie into whatever ground you desire (metal connection in roof, black #14 pin wire, there is a metal bolt right there in roof) - this is your ground

 

Power source wire goes into pin hole #2

 

Ground wire goes into pin hole #1

 

You decide your own connections.

 

------------------

 

see my previous posts about location of said 2 critical pin holes and photos.

 

Thanks for the help and tip offs.... it allowed me to trial and error and piece it all together! Enjoy as it is a great, simple mod. knowing what I have here now, this is maybe a 15-20 minute mod well worth the effort. When you supply power to car, viola... you can now see the lights at night

 

[Lex Talionis]

If I get a chance, I will try to snap a photo, but from today on I am a bit busy (which is why I wanted to knock it out on Monday). I have already taken that thing down like 40 times in the last few days and most of the photos I have taken show all of what needs to be seen so I only snapped a new one of the final product.

[McEdge]

If I get a chance, I will try to snap a photo, but from today on I am a bit busy (which is why I wanted to knock it out on Monday). I have already taken that thing down like 40 times in the last few days and most of the photos I have taken show all of what needs to be seen so I only snapped a new one of the final product.

 

 

Looks like you all got it nailed. I really like the idea of this as well, but I am in no way a DIY guy with any electrical knowledge. So, if anyone has any ideas about where to go to get this done (I take it a Dealer is out of the question from the earlier responses), I would be very grateful.

 

Lex, you are always doing great things. Thanks!

[Lex Talionis]

Looks like you all got it nailed. I really like the idea of this as well, but I am in no way a DIY guy with any electrical knowledge. So, if anyone has any ideas about where to go to get this done (I take it a Dealer is out of the question from the earlier responses), I would be very grateful.

 

Lex, you are always doing great things. Thanks!

 

hey thanks.. it was worth the effort.. it is pretty awesome to now be able to look up and see those lights

 

I really think now that the pins are figured out this is a very very basic DIY project. Most could pull this off, even the not so electrically inclined. But, I could see the unease in trying it as it 'can' involve soldering - but does not require it - and that is likely the toughest part and if not, you need electrical connection pieces (like butt connectors and/or splice connectors and or tiny molex connectors plus colored wire, etc) and who has those sitting around if they do not normally do this kind of stuff.

 

So, if you are really want to have it done, I would consider just a stereo shop. This would be basic for them. If you told them what needed to be done above, as they would never know otherwise, they should be able to figure it out with what I mapped out. You may have to take some of these print outs to them to let them see, but this is pretty basic electrical for a stereo shop. You could even take what I have here, put it in a little document and take it to them. That seems the only way to get this done as there is no way a dealer would do this and a stereo shop has the skills, but this would be a first for them for sure.

[securinu]

I own a stereo shop i am going to do mine tommorow if all goes as i anticipate i can make up harness & ship out with all connectors needed. i will figure out cost and post back when done.

[Lex Talionis]

I own a stereo shop i am going to do mine tommorow if all goes as i anticipate i can make up harness & ship out with all connectors needed. i will figure out cost and post back when done.

 

so my cut is 20% of every sale?

[securinu]

i will email you your cash just print and spend

[Lex Talionis]

Lex -

 

I've been reading this with quite a bit of interest - thanks for solving it. If it's not too much trouble can you show a "final" picture of what the connections look like? I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire this up.

 

Thanks

 

so here are my finalized connections just as an FYI....

 

I cannibalized a computer cable that had matching super tiny female molex connectors. These female molex connectors slide perfect right into the open gray pigtail molex slots for pin #1 and #2 and were the exact size to make and keep firm contact with the male pins on the MB side. Then, as I said I would, I used a splice connector to tap into the previous mentioned power wire. Then, as I said I would, I used a splice connector to tap into the previous mentioned black ground wire at the pigtail side. So, in the end, absolutely no soldering needed AND I was able to us the factory pigtail molex harness thanks to using those tiny female connectors fitting right into the existing pigtail molex harness so that precluded the need to have any sort of quick dissconnect inline as my setup looks like it was factory and uses all existing factory connection so if you dissconnect/connect the gray pigtail molex, you have/have not the connection so like all other pins. that is as clean as it gets I figure.

[grayfuzz]

GREAT now how do you light the memory buttons on the Limited 08

[Lex Talionis]

GREAT now how do you light the memory buttons on the Limited 08

 

seat memory - are they lit on an MKX?

 

gosh, at this rate.. along with the memory seat buttons, what about the rollable dash light knob, the turn/tilt rearview mirror twist knob and the child safety lock button..

 

can anyone confirm any of these is lit up on a Lincoln?

Edited August 28, 2008 by Lex Talionis

[securinu]

so i have the connectors from ford that fit in the harness and snap into the molex is anyone interested in these ??? i figure to $15 shipped with the 2 wires to plug into the molex the wire to go to the headlight switch and the various connectors. did mine today in 15 minutes its a snap.

[securinu]

these are contacts from ford so they are the exact size for the factory connector. they slide right in and lock in place.

[sanche]

so here are my finalized connections just as an FYI....

 

I cannibalized a computer cable that had matching super tiny female molex connectors. These female molex connectors slide perfect right into the open gray pigtail molex slots for pin #1 and #2 and were the exact size to make and keep firm contact with the male pins on the MB side. Then, as I said I would, I used a splice connector to tap into the previous mentioned power wire. Then, as I said I would, I used a splice connector to tap into the previous mentioned black ground wire at the pigtail side. So, in the end, absolutely no soldering needed AND I was able to us the factory pigtail molex harness thanks to using those tiny female connectors fitting right into the existing pigtail molex harness so that precluded the need to have any sort of quick dissconnect inline as my setup looks like it was factory and uses all existing factory connection so if you dissconnect/connect the gray pigtail molex, you have/have not the connection so like all other pins. that is as clean as it gets I figure.

 

Hi Lex,

 

Great write-up, seems like once you get your teeth into a project, it gets solved.

When I ever get a change, I'll pull mine apart and do the fix.

 

Also while I'm at it, I would like to get rid of the hood prop rod and replace w/ air springs. They sould have done this w/ all the top line sel+ and limiteds I'm not sure but I think the MKX's have them?

 

Oh, a question on you BAMR hook-up, do the LED's turn off when the exterior lights go out?? Or are they always on when when driving?

 

Thanks again, Sanche