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Power outlets always stay on!


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I did not get the nav system with my 2007 EDGE, but I really like the newer Garmin GPS units so I got one.

 

They switch on/off automatically when the power is supplied to them, but unfortunately it seems that in my EDGE the power outlets stay on all the time. No way to switch it off when the ignition is off.

 

Is rewiring needed or is there a setting somewhere maybe? Do you think I need to go to the dealer to rewire or can I do it myself?

 

Any advice is appreciated - Thanks!

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I did not get the nav system with my 2007 EDGE, but I really like the newer Garmin GPS units so I got one.

 

They switch on/off automatically when the power is supplied to them, but unfortunately it seems that in my EDGE the power outlets stay on all the time. No way to switch it off when the ignition is off.

 

Is rewiring needed or is there a setting somewhere maybe? Do you think I need to go to the dealer to rewire or can I do it myself?

 

Any advice is appreciated - Thanks!

 

Yep - Every Ford I've owned since the early 90s does that. I like it. With the TomTom I just bought and had hardwired, they wired it directly to the battery. Programmed my TomTom to turn off when it loses power. Cut off the car, battery goes off, TomTom goes off.

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Yep - Every Ford I've owned since the early 90s does that. I like it. With the TomTom I just bought and had hardwired, they wired it directly to the battery. Programmed my TomTom to turn off when it loses power. Cut off the car, battery goes off, TomTom goes off.

 

If you wire it directly to the battery then it will stay on until the battery dies. I think you meant that it was wired into a switched circuit that was only hot when the ignition was on.

 

You can easily rewire or add a new outlet by finding a fuse in the fusebox that's hot only when the ignition is on and then tapping into it with a fusetap and connecting that to the old or new outlet.

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If you wire it directly to the battery then it will stay on until the battery dies. I think you meant that it was wired into a switched circuit that was only hot when the ignition was on.

 

You can easily rewire or add a new outlet by finding a fuse in the fusebox that's hot only when the ignition is on and then tapping into it with a fusetap and connecting that to the old or new outlet.

 

I think I'll have to do that. I will definitely forget to pull the plug out when I leave the car.

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  • 2 years later...

So is there a way to have the outlet shut down when the car shuts off? Or will I have to have my garmin hardwired? I really don't want to forget to unplug it and wake up to a dead car because I forgot to unplug. I would rather the outlet just shut down when I shut off the car.....

 

Shoegal2634

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So is there a way to have the outlet shut down when the car shuts off? Or will I have to have my garmin hardwired? I really don't want to forget to unplug it and wake up to a dead car because I forgot to unplug. I would rather the outlet just shut down when I shut off the car.....

 

Shoegal2634

There was a thread about which fuse is controlled by the ignition--- You can do a search for it--- I think it was either fuse # 34 or 35--- The only way you are going to get a switched outlet is to wire one in.

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There was a thread about which fuse is controlled by the ignition--- You can do a search for it--- I think it was either fuse # 34 or 35--- The only way you are going to get a switched outlet is to wire one in.

 

You could cut the ground wire (or positive if you wish) at the outlet and wire a relay to give the outlet ground (or conversely positive if you cut the positive) when the ignition is on. This would shut off the outlet when the car is off.

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So is there a way to have the outlet shut down when the car shuts off? Or will I have to have my garmin hardwired? I really don't want to forget to unplug it and wake up to a dead car because I forgot to unplug. I would rather the outlet just shut down when I shut off the car.....

 

Shoegal2634

I've noticed that the USB power turns on when I open the door.

Try testing your garmin with the key fob in the house.

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  • 3 years later...

Does anyone have any specific details/instructions on how to wire the front outlet so it is only live when the ignition is on?

 

Thanks

Kev

The wire from the instrument panel power point is a red wire running directly to F17 ( a 20 amp fuse) of the battery junction box (hot at all times).

 

In order to have this power outlet switched off when the car was off, you would need to cut the wire running to the outlet and run it through a relay http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6 , using quick splice connectors http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-85462-Quick-Waterproof-Splice/dp/B003SYYGXM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423765071&sr=1-6&keywords=quick+splice+connector

 

The relay coil (+) side would then have to be wired to an existing circuit that is energized only with the ignition switch is in the start or run position.

 

One possible solution, you could tap into the wire running to the HVAC module. It's a violet wire with green stripe, running to terminal #24 of the HVAC module; located in the center consul area, below the radio. (Same for both manual and automatic HVAC systems).

 

The relay (-) wire would simply run to any good ground. You could use the black with gray stripe wire coming from terminal, #23 of the HVAC module, for the ground.

 

By doing this, when the car was shut off, the relay would not be energized and the power outlet source of supply, would be cut. Once the iginition was in the start or run position, the relay would close and energize the outlet.

 

As your only tapping off the HVAC supply, its function would be unhampered; you would only be adding a small milliamp load to the circuit. ;)

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You don't need to use a relay and tap into an existing circuit; you can double up a circuit with a second fuse with one of these:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390596568367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

 

I have one but haven't installed it yet, and I think the cover may not go on once it is in.

You can connect it to a 12v socket and hide the connection under the dash, leaving your existing plugs free.

 

Also, there are unused spots in the fuse block by the drivers feet that go off with the ignition (they have fuses in them but they are spares). I don't remember the numbers of the switched ones but I think they are on this site. Of course, adding a circuit to the fuse block without an adapter would be a challenge...

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I'm gonna rewire the center console power outlet in my 2011 this weekend. I need it to power off with the ignition to get my aftermarket bluetooth system (Kinivo) to pair properly every time I enter and exit the vehicle. I'm just gonna run a new + wire to a switched fuse. Was thinking about hard wiring the Kinivo but I kinda like the idea of one of the power points being switched.

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You don't need to use a relay and tap into an existing circuit; you can double up a circuit with a second fuse with one of these:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390596568367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

 

I have one but haven't installed it yet, and I think the cover may not go on once it is in.

You can connect it to a 12v socket and hide the connection under the dash, leaving your existing plugs free.

 

Also, there are unused spots in the fuse block by the drivers feet that go off with the ignition (they have fuses in them but they are spares). I don't remember the numbers of the switched ones but I think they are on this site. Of course, adding a circuit to the fuse block without an adapter would be a challenge...

Could double up on fuse F41, which is fed from the Accesory Delay Relay.

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I just finished rewiring the center console power outlet. Pretty easy job that took me about 1 hour. I just snipped the original positive wire, capped it and ran a new wire to a switched fuse. Had to remove the panel surrounding the shifter to gain access to the back of the power outlet and then fished the new wire through the console and under the drivers dash to the fuse panel. There are a few switched fuses that are not being used in my 11 SEL.

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I used 14 gauge covered with split loom and added an inline fuse. I used fuse location #33 for the power point and I think #36 for my radar detector. These fuses were not being used in my 2011 SEL. Most power points have a 20 amp fuse but #33 is a 10 amp which is fine for powering my Kinivo Blluetooth system.

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  • 7 months later...

Thanks for the replies.

I know it's been a while but I'm still determined to do this.

I have a fuse tap (add a circuit - as per ebay link above)

I will determine a suitable fuse based on above posts.

 

My real problem is how to get to the back of the front power outlet in the paggenger foot well of my 2011 SEL ???

Any video links or instructions with some ideas would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

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I couldn’t wait for any expert advice so investigated further and managed to do it!
Here’s some advice for the laymen out there.
All this should be possible for around $10

First you’ll need a circuit addition thingy as referred to in this thread;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390596568367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648&rmvSB=true

Some wire (approx. 6ft), I used 14 gauge and some auto electrical connectors suitable for 14 gauge wire.

Additional tools to a regular tool/electrical box;
Inspection Mirror is handy, but not essential, voltmeter and a good flashlight.

The power outlet will eventually come out with some persuasion!
I eased the plastic panel out that the outlet is part of. I was then able to squeeze my hand in from the bottom corner and get to the back of the outlet – the mirror helped here. After some wiggling and pushing I could then get a medium sized screwdriver under the flange on the outside and it eventually popped out.
Be very gentle here and work slowly, you are bending plastic tabs on the console. (I did it on a warm day approx. 80 degs)

The blue and red wire carries the + and the black and white the –‘ve.

Now you need to get the new wire from the driver’s foot well to the outlet.
I used a wire coat hanger straightened as a snake and got the new wire via the back of the console and cable tied it in place under the drivers side. Make sure of no fouling with the steering column or foot brake.
This was quite straight forward.
I cut the blue and red wire at the outlet (felt like defusing a bomb!) with as much tail as possible. I isolated the ‘live’ end and taped it up. You never know it might be useful one day!
With the new connectors I joined the new wire to the tail.

I used the ‘circuit addition thingy’ in fuse position no. 41
(You will need to test this is only live with the ignition on, with a voltmeter.)
Firstly remove the outer cover and then the inner fuse cover, to the left of the driver’s foot well.
On the back of the inner fuse cover is a fuse removal tool - remove no. 41. (or use narrow nose pliers)
Put this fuse into the ‘circuit thingy’, so that it continues to protect circuit 41. The fuse that came in the ‘circuit thingy’ will protect your new circuit to the outlet.

Test the outlet works with ignition on and ‘Bob’s your uncle’!
The power outlet goes back in with a nice pop as the lugs re-seat.

The ‘circuit thingy’ won’t allow the inner fuse cover to sit back in place. This now resides in my glove box
The outer cover goes back fine.

And that’s it. Took about an hour. Shame about the inner fuse box. No doubt someone will come on and tell me of dire consequences running without it! Or perhaps a solution. I couldn’t imaging trimming it as it’s too fiddly to measure up.
Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll be pleased to help.

You do this at your own risk, don’t blame me if you try and you get in a mess!
If it does all go wrong, don’t panic just take it to a radio install place and confess your sins!

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