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New light bulb installed on my EDGE!


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  • 4 weeks later...
HID=Good...

Just do it!!!!

 

Do a search online and read these articles, HID if properly designed and implemented are aceptable, but many of the aftermarket solutions are not so good as many people believe, besides of being really bothersome for the ones in front of you, and expensive, there are other factors to consider, the kind of light they produce are not the best for the night view, according to some trusty sources about the matter, which much prefer a good halogen lamp (specially the new HIR) to them, just read below a few articles about that, and do not follow the hipe blindly...

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...advantages.html

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/li...ight_color.html

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html

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  • 3 months later...
Do a search online and read these articles, HID if properly designed and implemented are aceptable, but many of the aftermarket solutions are not so good as many people believe, besides of being really bothersome for the ones in front of you, and expensive, there are other factors to consider, the kind of light they produce are not the best for the night view, according to some trusty sources about the matter, which much prefer a good halogen lamp (specially the new HIR) to them, just read below a few articles about that, and do not follow the hipe blindly...

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...advantages.html

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/li...ight_color.html

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html

 

just got HID kit for 60 bucks shipped, so your "expensive" argument is invalid. Also, you listed a whopping ONE source.

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just got HID kit for 60 bucks shipped, so your "expensive" argument is invalid. Also, you listed a whopping ONE source.

 

There is not such a thing as a good set of HID for $60.00, so if you pay $60.00 for them, trust me that they are not good at all, and all you will do, at best, is just to bother the ones that came across you in front in the opposite direccion...

HID lighting must be designed for the lamp and vehicle in question, there is no such a thing of an aftermarket one size fits all in HID. It has ot be designed, exclusivelly for your vehicle headlamp shape, and it is an expensive sport if properly implemented, as you have to consider many aspects of the design, and you are looking at $60.00 or more, just in good bulbs...

 

That whopping ONE source I linked, is the best source you can contact and ask while looking for answers in automotive lighting, those guys work with several car manufacturers, even are exclusive importers of some headlights for some dedicated vehicles, mainly motorcicles, (including the Harley) and others, he is also well known in automotive circles among the engineers and designers of lighting for the automotive industry all along the country...in other words he is an authority in that field. So you can take it or leave it, that will not make you more or less wrong or right...Nor do I want you to change your mind, it was just a general information service, to educate the members that were inclined to go that way...

 

Not saying that it can not be done, or that the results are not good, just that it will be safer for all to make someone do it properly...

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'm looking for a much whiter light myself for our MKX. I installed H11 Hoen's in my Fusion and have been very pleased:

 

http://www.hoen-usa.com/

 

Blue colored glass lamps are not the way to go, they will give you apparently more light due to the different color, but you indeed are filtering the light removing color components that are "needed" for the night vision (as the yellow spectrum)

Just see the yellow lights that are installed in many highways, they are yellow, and IMO they are the best for the night view, some of the brighter white ones do not illuminate so much...

 

Please for the ones looking for better lights, do not purchase any bulb just for the sake of, do not make my same mistake, read before, here are two articles of the good and bad blue bulbs, non of the two offer any advantage in better lighting:

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html

Edited by Kanatronic
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Did you need to do any modification to install the H9 where the H11 were initially? Right now I have the Nightbreakers, but they are expensive as hell, almost the cost of a pair of H9's, so I'm considering to get a pair of H9 as spares....

The main top tab had to be trimmed a slight bit to fit ... I followed Daniel Strerns instructions.

 

I have the bulbs he had reconnened in mine for almost a year now with no issues. I see further down the road and others are not bothered by my lights. With others ... I would of had to replace one by now. These that he recommended are doing exactly as he had suggested!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone wanting to change high beam, low beam, fogs should read Jaak in TO posts #47 & 60 and Kanatronic posts #53 & 59 above in this thread. Also go to Daniel Stern’s site http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ and read what he has to say about colored bulbs, over wattage bulbs, HID and various other aspects of automotive lighting. This guy seems to be about educating his customers and doing the right thing by them not just making a sale. I e-mailed him for information about using H9s in place of H11s for low beam & 9011 (HIR1) for high beams and his reply mirrored Jaak in TO’s post #4 in Oakville Employees Forum under Sylvania Silverstar Lamps. Jaak actually quotes Stern who recommends Candlepower Inc. http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html in Rockville, MD as source for 9011s. As far as I can tell Mr. Stern does not sell 9011s. In his reply to me it sounded as thought he was also recommending Candlepower for H9s even though he sells them himself. So I e-mailed him back and I quote, ”Thank you for your fast response. I appreciate all the information. It sounds as though you're telling my to buy the H9 bulbs from Candlepower rather than you. I've just ordered two 9011 bulbs from them, but I'd be more than happy to order two H9s from you. I'll wait for your response”. He replied “Hi, DR. Yep, please go ahead and order the bulbs via Candlepower site. Best DS”. At first I was impressed because it’s not often that a vendor recommends a competitor. Looking further into the 9011 bulb I found a comment that seems to indicate that Mr. Stern has some affiliation with Candlepower. I don’t think this in any way diminishes what he’s trying to do to educate car enthusiasts. If U appreciate how new technology improves performance U should know about the 9011 bulb which was developed by GE. "It was GE’s goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost." To further peak U’r interest here’s another quote from the site - “A few cars have these bulbs as original equipment, often in tandem with Xenon lights. These cars include Dodge Viper, BMW Z8, Infiniti I30, Chevy Avalanche & new Nissan Maximas. The bulbs also can fit many other makes and models worldwide; if your car takes 9005/9006 bulbs.” Find more at http://hirheadlights.com/. There’s additional interesting info about auto lighting at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954736. The poster Drew Brashler appears to also be a fan of Daniel Stern.

Edited by dadrett
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Anyone wanting to change high beam, low beam, fogs should read Jaak in TO posts #47 & 60 and Kanatronic posts #53 & 59 above in this thread . Also go to Daniel Stern’s site http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ and read what he has to say about colored bulbs, over wattage bulbs, HID and various other aspects of automotive lighting. This guy seems to be about educating his customers and doing the right thing by them not just making a sale. I e-mailed him for information about using H9s in place of H11s for low beam & 9011 (HIR1) for high beams and his reply mirrored Jaak in TO’s post #4 in Oakville Employees Forum under Sylvania Silverstar Lamps. Jaak actually quotes Stern who recommends Candlepower Inc. http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html in Rockville, MD as source for 9011s. As far as I can tell Mr. Stern does not sell 9011s. In his reply to me it sounded as thought he was also recommending Candlepower for H9s even though he sells them himself. So I e-mailed him back and I quote, ”Thank you for your fast response. I appreciate all the information. It sounds as though you're telling my to buy the H9 bulbs from Candlepower rather than you. I've just ordered two 9011 bulbs from them, but I'd be more than happy to order two H9s from you. I'll wait for your response”. His reply “Hi, DR. Yep, please go ahead and order the bulbs via Candlepower site. Best DS”. Maybe he gets a cut from Candlepower, but it’s not often that a vendor recommends a competitor. This may be of enough interest to start another thread.

 

Well indeed I think that they work somewhat together, Daniel is sometimes quoted by many of the technical advice I have received from Candlepower. BTW Cadlepower is the only importer in US for many europen and japanese headlamps, for the automotive industry, and also for motorcycle, i was told once that they furnish all the heaplamps to Harley Davidson...regardless of this to be true or not, their products are top notch, an they are working for long time with many manufacturers of the automotive industry...If I have to trust someone, those will be the ones, hands down...

 

Here is some info about the company and their development:

 

http://candlepowerinc.com/history.html

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I have them on the high beams and they are incredible, the light extends almost the double fo the stock ones...They are very nice and the mod is minimal...

Hey Kan (Kana?),

Am in process of installing 9011s (HIR-1) high beams and H9s low beams. As sometimes happens, things are not as simple as U first hear. On 9011s did U experience so tight a fit that bulb wouldn't seat deep enuf to twist into place? I e-mailed Daniel Stern and he replied, "Casting flash on the inner diameter of the bulb hole. Wrap a piece of 100-grit sandpaper around your index finger, wet it, and go round and round and round and round with it in the high beam bulb hole to knock down the casting ridge. Use a piece of paper towel to wipe away the (wetted) dust, and the bulb should go right in." Did U do this? I'd prefer to remove headlight & point it to ceiling while I sand, but it looks as if headlight removal is not as simple as on F-150. :unsure: I think I'll start a thread "Headlight Removal?" ;)

Edited by dadrett
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The main top tab had to be trimmed a slight bit to fit ... I followed Daniel Strerns instructions.

Hey Jaak,

I take it U mean to remove shorter tab/key at top of socket between contacts. That was/is my plan. Will cut away that extra tab with rotary tool.

 

(1) H11 w/key at bottom, (2) H9 w/two keys, (3) Bur (notice 8 cutting edges at end), (4) H9 w/upper key removed

post-5957-1238784076_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238784094_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238784121_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238784144_thumb.jpg

 

Another thing. There's a shield in front of the bulb. I checked w/magnet & it's not steel. I'm hoping it's aluminum & not plastic. Remember we're generating an 18.2% increase in wattage & I'm guessing that big an increase in heat. :unsure: If I understand correctly U've had U'rs installed a year w/no problems.:yahoo:

Edited by dadrett
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I take it U mean to remove shorter "rib"/"key" at top of socket between contacts. That was/is my plan. Will grind away that extra tab with various rotary tool burrs &/or diamond points.

 

It's much easier to just take short-head, flat-back wire cutters and snip that rib out...I had to do the same to fix a polarity issue on my HID's.

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Hey Kan (Kana?),

Am in process of installing 9011s (HIR-1) high beams and H9s low beams. As sometimes happens, things are not as simple as U first hear. On 9011s did U experience so tight a fit that bulb wouldn't seat deep enuf to twist into place? I e-mailed Daniel Stern and he replied, "Casting flash on the inner diameter of the bulb hole. Wrap a piece of 100-grit sandpaper around your index finger, wet it, and go round and round and round and round with it in the high beam bulb hole to knock down the casting ridge. Use a piece of paper towel to wipe away the (wetted) dust, and the bulb should go right in." Did U do this? I'd prefer to remove headlight & point it to ceiling while I sand, but it looks as if headlight removal is not as simple as on F-150. :unsure: I think I'll start a thread "Headlight Removal?" ;)

 

For the HIR-1 I had no problems at all, just cut a little bit the ears on the top as he suggested and period, I used a dremel, but you cna use anything, it is just plastic, in the low beans I still have the nightbreakers which is a direct replacement (which I will eventually replace if one of them get shot as they are pretty expensive) and also the H9 gives more light, but also is 65Watts, not 55W, as the origianl one, not sure if the wiring will be good enough to hold the extra 10 watts...but for now I will have the nightbreakers, for a while, I suggest not to do the sanding with the light assembly on, remove it and do it outside, if you decided to go that route, as the remainings of the sanding will go inside the headlight for sure, honestly if I have to sand something, I preffer to do it with the base of the bulb, not the otherway around...

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For the HIR-1 I had no problems at all, just cut a little bit the ears on the top as

he suggested and period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

I preffer to do it with the base of the bulb, not the otherway around...

Sounds as though U trimmed only ear at top, bulb pushed in easily & U were able to twist it into place. Excellent. :victory: I wasn't so lucky. I did NOT sand the hole in the reflector. Just as U prefer, I trimmed away part of bulb that wouldn't clear the opening. But it was more than sanding. I used bur shown below.

The wiring appears to be same gage for both high & low beams. I was a little concerned with increased heat (about 18% more with 65 watt bulb), but I e-mailed Daniel Stern & he says it's not a problem (the shield is metallic unlike most of the rest of the headlight) and I'm sure Stern wouldn't put his stamp of approval on this swap if there was a problem with gage of wire. ^_^

 

(1) 9011 (HIR-1) notice chamfer just below metal flange, (2) same bur (just coincidence) as in post #66, but this time I use flutes on side, (3) bulb w/diameter reduced to fit into hole in reflector, (4) 2nd variation, cut with bur pointed at center of bulb

post-5957-1238784602_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238784779_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238796214_thumb.jpgpost-5957-1238896251_thumb.jpg

A different approach:

Around time I was "grinding" away, I e-mailed Stern:

“Daniel,

My original plan for seating the 9011 into reflector involved the three screws that hold round black piece that is headlight "tab ring." I think Ford doesn't want me messin' w/them because they're a pretty small security torx. So I'm guessing that backing out the screws to allow the ring to come away to allow the bulb tabs to slid behind the "ring tabs" is out.”

His reply:

“But that's exactly what to do in the case you describe. Happens occasionally on some Range Rovers, too.”

So, it turns out that screws in question are T15 torz, post-5957-1240362605_thumb.jpgbut U can’t tell size by using regular torz :headscratch: because they don’t have “security hole.” Harbor Freight had a 100-piece security bit set on sale for $4.99. Heck, U can’t buy a set of jewelers’ screwdrivers for that. Just remember, it’s HF, but as often as U’d use them, U’d be foolish to buy better quality. HF is great, but U have to know what U’r buying :yup: & how their stuff will hold up to U’r usage.

Edited by dadrett
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Still don't know how to delete a post. :headscratch: Heck as long as it's my post I'll try to think of something to do with it. :lol:

 

Usually in the forums the posts can only be deleted by the administrators or moderators, not by the users, what you can do is to clean it and leave it blank and request one of the administrators to delete it, it is funny how you needed to sand this bulb, as honestly mine was a piece fo cake, not even the slightless force. I think that the Ford QC has leaves much to be desired...or the QC of the Toshiba bulbs...

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