*Click* Noise when accelerating from stop

[FordSELEdge]

2011 Ford Edge SEL AWD

 

When I accelerate from a full stop there are about one or two loud clicks, sounds like an old man popping his back when he wakes up. Happens almost every acceleration from stop, not a repetitive noise, just a couple times when I start to go.

 

any ideas?

[akirby]

This may sound silly but check the center console, door pockets, glovebox etc for something that is sliding back and forth.

[PaulSchott]

Possible CV joint noise, suspension creaking,  bowling ball loose in the back.

akirby may be right.  I found a set of keys hidden in the hidden bottom compartment of the center console that drove me nuts when I got my 2007.  every turn they slid form side to side.

[Totally_Ripped]

At one time I had a clicking or popping from the front end when accelerating from a stop or when going from park to drive or reverse. The dealer replaced both front wheel bearings and hubs and the noise never returned.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I believe there was a recall for a rollaway condition for gen 1.5 Edge/MKX for the right halfshaft 2012-14...

 

14S10/14V393/14V393000:  Halfshaft Disengagement/Loss of Drive/Roll Away

 

Also this TSB for the Taurus/Flex/MKS etc - may simply need an updated thrust washer ...

 

TSB 14-0186 (supersedes TSB 13-5-14)

TING/POP/CLICK NOISE – FRONT HALFSHAFT
Ting, Pop or Click Noise From the Front Wheel Area When Accelerating From a Stop, on Turns or When Shifting Between Drive/Reverse and/or Reverse/Drive

Publication Date: October 6, 2014 

FORD:  2011-2014 Flex; 2011-2015 Explorer, Taurus
LINCOLN:  2011-2014 MKS, MKT

This article supersedes TSB 13-5-14 to update the vehicle model years, Issue Statement and Part List.

ISSUE:

Some 2011-2015 Explorer, Taurus, 2011-2014 Flex, MKT and MKS vehicles may exhibit a noise that could be described as ting, pop or click noise from the front wheel area when accelerating from a stop, on turns or when shifting between drive/reverse and/or reverse/drive.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure Steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1.Separate the halfshaft from the wheel hub. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 205-04. a.Do not remove the halfshafts from the transmission or power transfer unit (PTU).
2.Install one (1) thrust washer, metal surface first, over the halfshaft splines until the metal ring is flat against the wheel bearing mating surface. The nylon surface should face outward toward the hub/splines. (Figures 1 and 2)

Figure 1 – 14-0186

Figure 2 - 14-0186
3.Install the halfshaft to wheel hub. Refer to WSM, Section 205-04.

PART NUMBER    PART NAME

BB5Z-7G273-B   Washer – Thrust
W712435-S439  Nut – Wheel Hub
W714890-S440  Nut – Ball Joint
W713968-S440  Nut – Sway Bar Link
W714890-S440  Nut – Tie Rod End
W500220-S439  Bolt – Dynamic Suspension

OPERATION    DESCRIPTION    TIME

140186A 2011-2014 MKT, MKS: Install A Thrust Washer Onto One (1) Front Halfshaft Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.8 Hr.
140186B 2011-2014 MKT, MKS: Install A Thrust Washer Onto Both (2) Front Halfshafts Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.2 Hrs.
140186C 2011-2014 Flex 2011-2015 Taurus: Install A Thrust Washer Onto One (1) Front Halfshaft Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.7 Hr.
140186D 2011-2014 Flex 2011-2015 Taurus: Install A Thrust Washer Onto Both (2) Front Halfshafts Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.1 Hrs.
140186E 2011-2015 Explorer: Install A Thrust Washer Onto One (1) Front Halfshaft Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.7 Hr.
140186F 2011-2015 Explorer: Install A Thrust Washer Onto Both (2) Front Halfshafts Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.0 Hr.

WARRANTY STATUS

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage.
Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO.    CONDITION CODE
3B436                     42

[2011edgese]

Oh wow. This might be what I'm hearing. Good to know it's  it the tranny.

[Edgingage]

Hello all:

 

WWWPerfA, million thanks for such a valuable info.

 

I've recently noticed the same "clicking" noise EXACTLY as described in this thread: when accelerating from stops, and/or shifting to/from reverse.  What concerns me is that I started to hear this noise exactly after the dealer replaced both outer tie rods.  They "found" a problem with the outer tie rods upon mandatory annual motor vehicle inspection (MVI).  What I mean is that I never have absolutely any clicking noise whatsoever before they replaced both outer tie rods...  That puzzles me (?)

 

Another thing I want to mention (WITHOUT intention of hijacking this thread) is that after they replaced both outer tie rods the steering wheel is very erratic when driving on irregular surfaces, any small batch, bump or just rough surfaces the steering wheel sharply oscillates (move to the sides), basically I have to "fight" the steering wheel to keep it straight when driving on any irregular surface; that NEVER happened before they replaced both outer tie rods.  I also noticed that's a little bit hard to keep the vehicle going straight, it feels like slightly pulling.  They did a four-wheel alignment after they replaced the outer tie rods.  ...But that's a different subject, I know (I'm just frustrated, sorry).

 

Going back to the main subject (clicking noise) I would like to ask a couple of questions:

1- I don't see the Ford Edge 2011 listed.  Therefore, may I assume that mine is not under consideration for a "free" repair?  If that's the case (if I have to pay for this repair), then question 2:

2- how serious is that problem?  In other words, is that a safety issue?  Should I repair that right away?  What could happen if I keep driving without fixing the "clicking" problem?

 

As usual, million thanks in advance for your thoughts, comments and suggestions.

Edited September 13, 2020 by Edgingage

[2011edgese]

Honestly in my case, my prior 2011 did it all the way to the trade in [2017].  Clicked for 4 years. My newer 2015 started doing it last year. Exact same noise. I'll have them look at it when it's forces to the shop.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

@Edgingage

Fighting the steering wheel may be an alignment issue or a tire issue.  If it started after the alignment, then maybe a second opinion is needed.  Do you have the results of the alignment available to post?

 

Clicking may have different etiologies.  If your vehicle has chrome clads, they may have dirt/grime buildup that needs removal.  Check the CV joints, grease may be leaking. or you may need a different circlip on the hubs.  If the clicking is not continuous, it is not likely to be a serious issue.  It could even be suspension related, that would be fixed with new strut mounts.

[Edgingage]

Hello WWWPerfA and all:

 

Thanks for your time, comments and suggestions.

 

My vehicle doesn't have chrome clads, unfortunately (I wish; I'm looking for chrome rims!).  It has the regular OEM/stock rims, aluminum, I think.  My concern, or rather frustration is because the noise appeared right after they replaced both outer tie rods which I hadn't noticed absolutely any problem with them while driving.  All the problems (clicking and steering vibration, pulling) came up right after they "fixed" the tie rods.

 

Yes, I requested the alignment report (please see attachment; they charged me $99.95 for the alignment only; $541.61 in total).  The red ink marks are my own trying to compare and learn what they mean.

 

The greatest part of my frustration is because they told me they'll "look" at it.  I'm sure they'll "hear" nothing wrong as the problem started after their "fix".  I know my car had a super smooth and noiseless ride before their tie rods "fix".  Now it doesn't...

 

But WWWPerfA, the *click* noise now in my car matches the description in the TSB you posted (although it's not listed there).  Do you think it might be a different cause?  I'm sure something is not quite tight as before around there after the dealer "fixed" both outer tie rods.  Anyway...

 

Thank you all for your time, comments and suggestions.

 

2020-08-17-Alignment.PDF

 

This is NOT my vehicle (photo "borrowed" from the net) but those are my same stock rims:

Edited September 15, 2020 by Edgingage
Picture added.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

better off without chrome clads lol.  bling 4 sure but maintenance can become a hassle as miles, grime, and curb rash pile on.

 

the alignment looks spot-on.  so, on the surface, it all looks good except for all the issues mentioned ?

 

i would check the wheel bearings per tsb.  if only one side is bad, replace both.  oftentimes, 1 wear item will wear out another wear item (transferred stress).  so the work the dealer did may be a-ok, but the result may expose something needing changed.

[Edgingage]

Hello WWWPerfA and all:

 

WWWPerfA, thanks for your opinion and suggestion.  I agree that once you put a new part starts to pull the old ones off lol.  I'll list the main repair history for the last year.  Maybe that'll help you make me understand what/why was done, and also help you to answer one more question I'll have at the end:

- Sep 2019: dealer replaced right front ball joint and control arm assembly - (4-W align - cambers set toes had to boost to put out) - $639.62

Very shortly after the above repair, the steering mechanism was making some noise when steering left or right.  - Dealer's diagnosis: will need a left front axle and lower control arm.

- Nov 2019: dealer replaced left front axle / SHAFT-front axle / arm assembly - front suspension / left front lower arm - (sway bar link nuts had to be heated, had to also go into the frame due to one nut spinning inside frame, with use of welder and torch was able to remove bolt) - $1173.75

- Aug 2020: dealer found faulty, and replaced, both outer tie rods - $622.85

After this last repair, just coming out of the shop, the steering wheel has some short and sharp oscillations (side wise motion, NOT vibrations) when driving on any minor irregular surfaces (rough asphalt, small batches or small bumps), and also some side pulling (hard to keep the vehicle going straight free hands; just for test driving! )  And the click noise described above (coming out of the shop as well).

 

Do you see anything wrong in that repair history, or something that can pinpoint the cause for the short and sharp oscillations on the steering wheel?  Very annoying, ...and worrisome, of course.

 

Thank you all in advance for your time, thoughts and suggestions.

 

Edited September 16, 2020 by Edgingage

[Edgingage]

Update, (...and "new" click?):

- Front brakes were serviced: new pads and calipers/sliders/pins greased up.  After this work was done the the sharp sidewise rapid oscillations on the steering wheel went away; no noticeable side pulling anymore either.  It may have been caused by a front caliper getting stuck...

 

Now, some other "click" apparently new, or at least I didn't notice it before (and I pay attention to my car's "music tones"), but the fact I'm noticing it now makes me believe it's a new click:

- When I'm parked (on flat, not inclined surface, car not freely rolling/moving in neutral, no pressure on the gear, engine on) and I pressed the brake pedal I can hear a clear distinctive mildly loud "click" (rather grave/low pitch "clock" sound) coming from the console under the shift handle, every single time I press the break pedal, even if it's just a soft touch to the pedal.  I know there is a safety mechanism there to lock the shift when in park, but I don't recall having heard that click every time I pressed the brake pedal but only when I went to disengage, release the shift from park.

 

Is that normal?

 

I didn't want to start a new tread just for this new "click", but probably I should.  Please feel free to let me know.

 

Thank you all.

Edited November 19, 2020 by Edgingage
Grammar

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

glad the brake work fixed the SW oscillations, i would have thought alignment issues instead.  type of tire can also make a difference with uneven roads.  Do you have pre/post alignment spec sheets to share?

 

noise travels.  if it indeed started after the brake work, that is where i would start.  maybe the shims on the pad are installed incorrectly.  since there is no torque involved, hard to blame it on one of the mounts.  ChassiEARS or similar tool would trace it quickly.  IDK if the shift switch could be causing it or not, no one has reported as such.

[Edgingage]

Yes WWWPerfA, I attached the alignment report in my post on Sep 14 (above).  You then commented it was spot on (thank you).

 

I'm going to keep paying attention to that click noise when I press the brake pedal, I can hear the click coming out of the console under the shift handle...

 

Ah, and the clicking noise originating this post is also still there, not so loud and not so often, but I still can hear it sometimes when accelerating from stop to forward, or from stop to reverse, as described in the first post above.

 

Thank you all.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Did you have the dealer check the halfshaft per TSB.  At least we can rule it out if it checks out.

 

Missed the alignment pdf this time, lol.

[Edgingage]

No, I haven't asked them to check the halfshaft yet...

 

There are a few things (repairs) just done and other needed to be done in my vehicle, ...and I'm just trying to set priorities (money wise )

 

I somehow interpreted that that "click" sound from park/reverse/go was not an emergency/safety issue.  I bumped that down and then I bumped up the coolant replacement.  I'm reading other posts about WP going down (3.5K engine replacements) and ...I'm getting scared lol.

 

Thanks again.  Thank you all.

Edited November 20, 2020 by Edgingage