EDST777 Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) Friends, I would like to ask a question about an oil consumption. The third year I use Petrocanada 5W-20 oil. Oil and the original filter I change each 8000 kilometers. Good oil, but is one shortcoming: there is an Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), that is on each 300 kilometers I add about 50 grams of oil. At a forum on oils, I heard that at given oil there is such shortcoming as Oil consumption(expense, oil evaporation). I want to learn your opinion who else has Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), is normal process on the engine 3.5 Duratec? Also has noticed that near spark plugs on a valvate cover of the engine, easy oil spots began to appear recently, it is possible isn't a problem, but I would like to pay your attention to it and to learn your opinion? I will show it on the attached image. Thanks. p.s.: exhaust gases go without impurity, that is there are no traces of a soot and gray smoke, oil clean, without impurity, darkens only in use in process of the development. My style of driving now such that I don't lift engine speed higher than 2500 revolutions per minute, therefore it can't be the cause too. Spark plugs I changed for 100 000 kilometers, 153 000 kilometers now. Edited June 16, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 also there are no impurity in cooling liquid, it clean, that is oil doesn't get to cooling liquid and vice versa color of oil of the engine says that cooling liquid doesn't get to the engine. Somebody else adds oil to the engine in such portions as I 50-100 grams on 300 - 500 kilometers of a way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Over a quart in 5,000 miles, that is not normal with ANY quality oil - conventional, synblend or full synthetic, for these engines. Have you pulled the COPs and plugs? More than likely it is a valve cover gasket or a spark plug tube seal leak. Surprised there is no misfire issue. Have you checked codes? Any leaks from Bank 1 (firewall side)? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 Hi Edward, this site has an article and pictures describing the spark plug seals and offer more info on their replacment. It's on a 2009 Ford Flex, but same 3.5L engine. https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7809 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) Over a quart in 5,000 miles, that is not normal with ANY quality oil - conventional, synblend or full synthetic, for these engines. Have you pulled the COPs and plugs? More than likely it is a valve cover gasket or a spark plug tube seal leak. Surprised there is no misfire issue. Have you checked codes? Any leaks from Bank 1 (firewall side)? Thanks. 1. Coils of spark plugs (COP) and plug I didn't take yet, the last time I did it on 100 000 kilometers when changed plugs . I will make it to look at their state and to understand whether there is a problem there. Thanks. 2. To understand what condition of Bank 1, I will take the probe and I will try to examine them a valve cover which is covered with an intake manifold. Or it is better for me to remove an intake manifold? What your opinion? Especially as I should make it if I need to examine plugs and COP for Bank1. What your opinion? And still, if I don't define a problem at survey of coils, then it will speak about a problem of a valve cover? I try to find the optimum scheme of definition of a problem, and I come to a conclusion that first of all I should check all plugs and COP, I correctly act? I saw errors of the computer, the mistakes relating to this problem it isn't revealed. There is a mistake which arose at removal of the accumulator, there is an audio system error, it because I disconnected a loop of a MP3 changer, is an error of a passenger seat which arises because I lay down a light load sometimes on passenger sitting. That's it. I will attach a log of my file. Thanks. p.s/is attached survey of COP and plugs of BANK1. On video there are no oil spots, externally everything is normal. engDTC18-06-2018.txt eng18-06-2018.txt Edited June 18, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I suppose you could get a probe to examine the rear valve cover (bank 1) without removing the intake manifold, to look for similar oil leak issues, but it would be easier to take the manifold off since you need to check the spark plugs to give you a comparison with spark plugs from bank 2. But it looks like no leaks on bank 1 from your video. Most likely you would get an oil smell in the cabin if there were a leak on bank 1, unless it is slow enough. Will check the logs soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I suppose you could get a probe to examine the rear valve cover (bank 1) without removing the intake manifold, to look for similar oil leak issues, but it would be easier to take the manifold off since you need to check the spark plugs to give you a comparison with spark plugs from bank 2. But it looks like no leaks on bank 1 from your video. Most likely you would get an oil smell in the cabin if there were a leak on bank 1, unless it is slow enough. Will check the logs soon. Thanks for your professional help. I will check Bank2 plugs, I incline also now to opinion that the problem in Bank2, and most likely with COP because spots of oil are localized around them in Bank2, the second possible cause can be laying of a valvate cover of Bank2. A key for plugs I will take plugs and to investigate them, also I will take COP for studying of a state. But I have no mistakes, it is possible because of weak process of leak. Any your councils are very important for me. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) Hi Edward, this site has an article and pictures describing the spark plug seals and offer more info on their replacment. It's on a 2009 Ford Flex, but same 3.5L engine. https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7809 Thanks, is very valuable information, I study it, I think it is really applicable for me. P.s It is strange to be told about the image plug tube seals there but there are no images. . Edited June 18, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) probably this consolidation in a valve cover DORMAN 097146 {#0971461, 971461, F75Z6734AA} Rubber Gasket; Rubber; Size; M14, 1/2"; Inside Dia: 12.75mm; Outside Dia.: 19.38mm; Thickness: 2.67mm 7T4Z12025A Edited June 18, 2018 by EDST777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 5 7T4Z-6584-A Valve Cover Gasket EDGE, MKX; LEFT $14.58 $10.06 5 7T4Z-6584-B Valve Cover Gasket EDGE, MKX; RIGHT $14.53 $10.03 LEFT is bank 1 RIGHT is bank 2. The FelPro kit looks like it includes everything for both banks, including valve cover gaskets, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals and VCT solenoid seals. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4890087&cc=1434490&jsn=10698 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 (edited) LEFT is bank 1 RIGHT is bank 2. The FelPro kit looks like it includes everything for both banks, including valve cover gaskets, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals and VCT solenoid seals. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4890087&cc=1434490&jsn=10698 Only VICTOR REINZ VS50490 and KNECHT/MAHLE VS50490 what of these producers to prefer is available to me? Thanks. p.s: I think also to replace the PCV valve, it can't give such problems? or the problem would be on two parts of Bank1 and Bank2? Edited June 19, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Both brands are top quality, I have a slight preference for Victor Reinz, but really Mahle should work work well too. Could be that the PCV valve is causing a problem. If it is clogged/not functioning properly, it can cause buildup of pressure inside the crankcase/engine and cause seals to leak. So well worth replacing for peace of mind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Friends, I would like that you checked correctness part-numbers for the order on my a car of 2008 AWD Ford EDGE 3.5 Limited if you have offers on change of my options on better brands, I will be glad to your councils:1 The AYFS22FM FORD spark plugs (You hold the opinion that the best spark plugs are OEM?).2 PCV FORD valve Ford EDGE-Explorer 11 2X4Z6A666AA 3 Laying of an intake manifold of MS97120 FEL-PRO Edited June 25, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Looks good to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Looks good to me. Ok.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) so friends I have unscrewed all three plugs of Bank2, I haven't found anything bad on plugs, there are no soot traces, there are no oil traces, there is no blue color. But that concerns me, it is a gap of plugs, it is much more of fact that it is specified in the guide to service which specifies 1, 61 mm a maximum. My valid size nearly 2 millimeters, at the same time isn't present any problems, the engine works without hindrances, steadily and doesn't shiver. It isn't sure, but these plugs in a new state had a gap more than 1, 61 millimeter. In the management old data are really specified? Edited June 28, 2018 by EDST777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 The plugs look ok-ish to me. But the gap growth is rather quick for only 53000 kms on them. I would say in your case, change them every 50000 kms to be safe. One possibility for the oil spots is the Engine Oil Pressure switch. More typically happens on 2011-14, but does sometimes happen in 2007-10 MYs. It is on the engine block to the left and above the oil filter, close to the alternator/generator. Tight spot, inspect carefully. If it is leaking, it is possible that oil has deposited on the valve cover from there. You are sure the oil filter is not double-gasketed, right? Sometimes the oil filter leaves the gasket behind. The leak would be quite severe tho, so I don't think that is the case. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 The plugs look ok-ish to me. But the gap growth is rather quick for only 53000 kms on them. I would say in your case, change them every 50000 kms to be safe. One possibility for the oil spots is the Engine Oil Pressure switch. More typically happens on 2011-14, but does sometimes happen in 2007-10 MYs. It is on the engine block to the left and above the oil filter, close to the alternator/generator. Tight spot, inspect carefully. If it is leaking, it is possible that oil has deposited on the valve cover from there. You are sure the oil filter is not double-gasketed, right? Sometimes the oil filter leaves the gasket behind. The leak would be quite severe tho, so I don't think that is the case. I already ordered thanks for yours, as always a valuable advice, new plugs and I wait for them shipment. Double-gasket of an oil filter as it should be, it is established on the place and not displaced, in an installation site is dry and clean, it is an indicator of the correct installation. Thanks for your assumptions. Now I am going to check the oil pressure sensor especially as I saw an old oil spot on the cylinder block around an opening for pressure release of a water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkegs Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Leaking oil pressure switch should present itself as oil dripping from the a/c compressor as it is directly below the switch. Also you may have the oil pressure indicator light come on at idle speeds then shut off as rpms increase. Mine eventually failed and was dripping oil at a high rate through the connector. Use a deep well 13/16 socket or equivalent metric. A little tough to get at but can be done in 30 mins. Get at it from the engine compartment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NzP Posted October 16 Report Share Posted October 16 Hi guys, after I replaced on my '09 MKX a water pump, phazers, PCV valve, VVT solenoids, valve cover gaskets I got an oil consumption: 1/2 to 1qt after every 1000 miles. No leaks at all... Could be bad PCV valve from O'Reilly? There's nothing special inside... Simplest PCV. How to determine what's wrong? 121k is current mileage, I drive very gently and slow, basically no highways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 16 Report Share Posted October 16 18 minutes ago, NzP said: Hi guys, after I replaced on my '09 MKX a water pump, phazers, PCV valve, VVT solenoids, valve cover gaskets I got an oil consumption: 1/2 to 1qt after every 1000 miles. No leaks at all... Could be bad PCV valve from O'Reilly? There's nothing special inside... Simplest PCV. How to determine what's wrong? 121k is current mileage, I drive very gently and slow, basically no highways... You could do a compression and leakdown test - if that's in spec then yes it could be the PCV system. A catch-can won't eliminate the oil consumption if you have a piston blow-by issue, but it would be beneficial not having the oil going into the intake and then the combustion chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NzP Posted October 16 Report Share Posted October 16 (edited) I'm sorry, I'm not a native - what is a "catch-can"? And it's hard to understand the whole sentence... I know how to do compression and leak down tests, but doing repair I applied a thread-locker everywhere, so I do not want to touch those 6x1 bolts... I can easily start with the PCV, but how to determine 100% the current is not good? I had a vibration, but it was a torque arm, after that still little vibration, more than I got on the same gen Edge with 270k on it. Never ever any codes, new plugs and coils less than 5k miles ago... Edited October 16 by NzP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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