DIY oil changes

[Peter520]

I'm new to the world of forced induction so I have some interest about oils in ecoboost engines. In no way am I doing the 10K mile oil change as noted in the manual, call me crazy. I am not even 100% comfortable with 5K miles on the motorcraft synthetic blend. So, I have been searching the subject for a few months now. Outside this forum, it seems Castrol Magnatec (now also full synthetic) is popular with ecoboost users and I'd like to bring it up here. Anyone have good or bad info on this oil?

 

Yes, there are many good synthetics out there and yes everyone has an opinion. I have some time to do my first DIY oil change which would be #2 for the vehicle itself. (first oil change was free at the dealer)

 

I do consider our use as severe since it's mostly used on short trips within the city.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Always recommend running full synthetic engine oil on Ecoboost engines, and as you stated, never out to the max. Note that the IOLM may state the need for a change at an interval well before that, depending on driving conditions/idling/WOT/etc. Ecoboosts are torture chambers for engine oil, which is why full synthetic will always be a better choice.

 

Instead, make it a regular habit to go no longer than 6 months/5,000 miles whichever comes first. You may not get the max oil useful life, but providing that margin of safety, to me, is well worth it.

 

You can peruse macbwt's engine oil analysis series on his YT channel, and while it may not include Magnatec (formerly Startup), it does provide some eyeopening data on the choices to be made:

 

documents

https://www.mactgarage.com/oil-analysis

videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/search?query=oil+testing+series

 

I have not heard of anyone running Magnatec on an EB engine yet, at least with an oil analysis to back it up.

 

HTH.

[lildisco]

Mobil1 with Motorcraft filter is what I've been using since around 3-4000 miles.

 

Unless you have a way to know the exact amount of oil that comes out, it usually takes me a few days to get the oil at the full mark, which is the top hole. Usually after the oil change I'll get it on a flat service & wait about 30-40 minutes to check the level (to make sure that it's around the full mark & safe to drive) & then drive around. 1sr thing in the morning before the 1st drive, i check the oil again & add if necessary & repeat until the dipstick reads full after sitting over night.

With the turbo & all the lines, it'll take a good 30-40 minutes for 'most' of the oil to work its way back to the pan. Usually, if you let it sit over night, then it should have enough time to work it's way back down to the pan. Better to add tiny amounts than bigger amounts & risk over filling.

 

I believe that the 2.0 requires nearly 6 quarts of oil according to the manual (which i don't have in front of me).

 

1 thing also to consider is a catch can. I don't know your climate & it really seems to work best (or catch the most contaminants) in temps below freezing. I've caught A Lot of blow by & contaminants with my Catch Can over the last year since it was installed. Most recently, i drained it with around 2,000 miles since i last drained it & it caught a fairly decent amount considering the mileage. To note, last summer, it barely collected anything, maybe a few drops during an oil change (5,000ish miles). Once the temps went below freezing, it started collecting more.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13407-what-have-you-done-towith-your-edgemkx-today/page-74?do=findComment&comment=184115

[enigma-2]

Neighbor was telling me today that local Ford garage recommends a steam cleaning procedure for direct injection engines. Think he said they quoted him around $250 for the process. Cleans gunk on backside of valves.

 

Anyone else heard about this?

[lildisco]

Never heard of it, would be interested to know more!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I guess same idea as an induction cleaning, but maybe done thru the spark plug wells?

[1004ron]

Neighbor was telling me today that local Ford garage recommends a steam cleaning procedure for direct injection engines. Think he said they quoted him around $250 for the process. Cleans gunk on backside of valves.

 

Anyone else heard about this?

Way back, my dad used to trickle flow water into hot running engines intakes and it would effectively de-carbonize the engine - I wonder if this procedure is something like that?

[IWRBB]

I'm guessing it's similar to the walnut shell blasting. You pull the intake manifold and go through the head port to clean the back of each valve. You clean the intake valves on the cylinders that are fully closed (vacuuming out the debris as you go) then rotate the engine and do the rest.

[tk2fast]

If you want the best synthetic go with Amsoil. They were the first in synthetics. Iv'e been using it for 3 decades with exceptional results, including fleet vehicles I used to maintain.

[1004ron]

If you want the best synthetic go with Amsoil. They were the first in synthetics. Iv'e been using it for 3 decades with exceptional results, including fleet vehicles I used to maintain.

I have no doubt that its a good product, but price and availability has me sticking with Mobil-1, which I've been using on my Harley and cars for decades with exceptional results.

[tk2fast]

Interesting test using Amsoil synthetic...

 

The GM Turbo Coking Test

The Turbo Coking Test was designed to simulate the extreme operating conditions of a turbocharged engine. It evaluates a motor oil’s ability to resist deposit buildup in the oil passages and bushings of a turbocharger. Temperature increases within the turbo and the weight of any deposits are recorded.

Test Parameters

Engine

2012 GM 1.4L

Duration

2,000 cycles of extreme heat soaks – approximately 537 hours

Measures

A motor oil’s ability to resist deposits in a turbocharger’s oil passages and bushings

Simulates

High-heat operation of a turbocharged engine

Requirement

Temperature change within the turbocharger limited to 13 percent

Signature Series protects turbochargers 72% better than required by GM dexos1® Gen 21

The GM Turbo Coking Test requires an oil to limit the temperature change within the turbocharger to 13 percent or less to pass the test. Amsoil Signature Series limited the temperature increase to only 3.6 percent, controlling heat and proving it protects against deposits common to high-temperature engine environments.

1Based on independent testing of AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 in the GM Turbo Coking Test as required for the GM dexos1 Gen 2 specification.

*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.

[1004ron]

Here is a small glimpse into what is involved in formulating a motor oil and some of the different tests that are performed (lab, bench, and real-world).

 

The example used here is Mobil 1 Annual Protection which is rated for up to 20,000 miles (32,000 KM) or 1 year, whichever comes first.

 

Note: Mobil 1 Annual Protection's maximum extended drain intervals only apply to vehicles who are driven under what is considered "normal operating conditions".

 

Also, if your Ford is still under WARRANTY, it is advisable to follow the oil change interval from the appropriate "service schedule" (normal or severe) outlined in your Owner's Manual.

 

[tk2fast]

Nice video 1004ron, very interesting. Amsoil is rated at 25K miles and in testing, proven to be a better overall product than Mobil 1. Now with that said I'm not trying to get anyone "worked up" here. Mobil 1 is a fine product, more readily available and costs less.

With either oil I do not recommend going 20K miles between an oil change, unless you have a bypass filter setup. I feel more comfortable changing my oil at around 10K so either oil would be fine IMO. Everyone has their own opinion on what is best, so go with what you believe is working. Overall Mobil 1 is a great choice.

[1004ron]

That was posted in another auto forum that I frequent by an Amsoil rep, who also made the comment that Mobil 1 was more than adequate for "normal operating conditions" but he would stick with Amsoil and suggests the same for those who's driving/racing style is considered "severe operating conditions".

 

https://www.kia-forums.com/2016-sorento/275050-oil-change-interval-12.html

[tk2fast]

I checked out the price of the Mobile 1 Annual Protection and the price was about $6 less for 5 quarts than the top Amsoil Signature Series.

Edited September 13, 2018 by tk2fast

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

they seem to be using stronger base stocks with the AP product, but the lack of antiwear additives compared to their regular Mobil1 and Mobil1 EP is surprising.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4389559/mobil-1-0w-20-annual-protection-voa-tbn-tan

 

Granted this is 5w20 data, but you can see it at mactgarage.com under the Oil Analysis section.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026

 

Test of 5W30 AP by PQIA back in March shows it in a better light

http://www.pqiadata.org/Mobil1_Annual_Protection_5W30.html

Edited September 13, 2018 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[tk2fast]

Quite interesting. Also would have liked to see mactgarage.com include Amsoil in his analysis. Surprising is the top oil in mactgarage.com, Red Line Synthetic which has a high amount of calcium. We know that calcium is one of the most effective additives for cleanliness and wear protection but also contribute to low speed pre-ignition events (LSPI). I understand that there are quite a few factors that influence LSPI, but again, Red Line receiving top dog rating especially with a $12 price tag per qt is surprising.

Edited September 14, 2018 by tk2fast

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Can only test what the budget allows LOL. Just to get Amsoil, you have to jump through hoops if there are no local distributors. You can see samples of UOA from Amsoil 0W20 on the site on both his Edges.

 

LSPI knowledge is still in flux. But yes, additives, not only in oil but gasoline as well, contribute to it. It is also a forced induction-only issue, and many engines out there are still naturally aspirated.

 

Redline performs quite well also in the field per the UOAs. In addition to significant antiwear properties, which outstrip even the current Amsoil formulations. This is a whole nother debate, but you will see additives being removed in European formulations, and the service intervals being shortened at the same time. Just can't have your cake and eat it too, I guess. American formulations are moving in the same direction.

[Snox801]

For whats it worth Ive run amsoil in all my families fleet stuiff to the 15,000 intervals all made it to 300,000 before sold. With the ecoboosts I have 3 with over 170,000 that have run amsoil changed at oil monitor system about 7,000 miles. I contacted amsoil about the fuel dilution issues. They are still backing it to 15,000 so if changed at the monitor you still have a nice buffer. Also have one 2.0 escape changed every 15,000 and its at 162,000 and no issues. Im most proud of my 3.5 500whp 3.5 with meth injection run a 12:5 1/4 and its my work truck 173,000 and change it at oil monitor sugg. Lots of good oils but this should give many piece of mind. Only one I change early is my 500 plus a whp rs thats running e85 and meth. That gets it very often.

[1004ron]

Here's a good deal on a good quality oil.

 

Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. $25.47

Less $12 Mobil rebate.

Limit 2 rebates per household.

 

 

Myself and many others have also had umpteen miles and plenty years of trouble free motoring attributed to the choice of oil, whether it be Mobil, Valvoline, ...............etc.

Edited September 15, 2018 by 1004ron

[Snox801]

That is a good deal. Plenty of good oils. I think if you pick a good one and change it on time with a good filter you are gonna be just fine. Only issues Ive ever seen on ecoboosts because of oil is guys running either cheap oil and going past the service light by a bit.

[tk2fast]

 

Granted this is 5w20 data, but you can see it at mactgarage.com under the Oil Analysis section.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026

 

 

Really don't understand "Bill's Ranking" in his oils comparison spreadsheet. He says he uses the data from Blackstone Labs that contain specifics around additives, flashpoints, viscosity ect. But his actual methodology is not clear at all to me. Especially when one oil gets an A+ and another a D based only on the additives in the product. Where is the "real world" application and analysis? Am I missing something? Any thoughts?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Based primarily on analysis data easily available to the public, and cost per quart of the product. Base stock analysis is much more expensive and so we have to go by the marketing terminology of conventional / synthetic blend / full synthetic. Which in the U.S. is = muddy waters at best. The goal is engine longevity and operational smoothness over time while minimizing major repairs.

 

How can you expect real-world analysis? You have to source UOA reports from BITOG for example. Or you can simply ask Blackstone or read their published findings. Is that third-party data trustworthy data? You make the call. Bill has published about the most one person can, documenting every oil change with an oil analysis.

[tk2fast]

So Red Line is rated highest because it costs the most and has the highest levels of anti wear and cleansing additives.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Sure if you want to look at it that way But it is rated highest because it has the highest levels of antiwear and detergents, but also very likely the best base stock. They have been ester-based for as long as I can remember. I don't know of anyone in the list of oils tested that claims to be ester base stock. They will say "high quality synthetic base stock" and leave it at that.