Engine removal, dreaded water pump

[raydog]

My wife can now be added to the list of chronic water pump failures. I have since obtained a salvage yard replacement engine and have prepped it with a new water pump, chains and guides. Question is, can the motor be removed and replaced through the top of the car? I have seen the youtube vids where it is dropped through the bottom using a lift but I am trying to do as much of the job myself in order to save on this extravagant cost.

 

I will add, I will never ever badmouth my BMW on repairs again. Owning this car, after replacing entire rear suspension due to eating through wheel bearings, replacing the PTU, and now an engine, I should have given up on it years ago, but the car is worth nothing not running.

 

2007 Ford Edge

105k miles

regularly serviced at local dealer

 

Thanks, Don

[macbwt]

You can drop the engine and trans as a unit much easier than lifting up through the hood. Or you can change it in place. Tight spaces but it has been done with the engine in place.

[raydog]

Hi Macbwt, thanks for your reply, however, I am replacing the entire engine not just the pump. Even if I drop the engine, I still need to swap over the cradle, trans, etc. onto the replacement engine. So I guess what I am asking is, can all of this be disconnected with engine in car, then pull out through hood opening? Or am I pretty much chasing my tail.

[CTFordfan]

Engine and trans drop out as one unit. Is the engine toasted from the failure? Coolant in oil? If not why not do a compression test on your engine and just change the pump and worn chain guides? Chancing all that labor on an unknown junkyard engine could be trouble.

[raydog]

Going from memory, front bank #4-6 test at around 185psi cold, don't quote me on that but it was satisfactory. Rear bank or #1-3 all came in at 85-100psi. I will also add that I at TDC, I can not install the timing lock tool on that bank either. The cam is ever so slightly off at TDC, the front bank I can lock fine. So that tells me it possibly jumped time by a tooth or bent valves?

 

I also tried a leak down test. I can tell you air is leaking, but I think I have too much of the engine taken apart to find exactly where the problem lies. The engine still ran before I took it apart and finally threw codes for cylinder 4-6 misfire.

 

If someone thinks I still have a chance I will dig into it further. Believe me, this thing is a bitch to work on any further, but next is getting the timing cover, accessories and crank pulley off while standing on my head.

 

And last question, is there coolant in the oil? Oh yes, there was the original coolant that dumped in there, and then the extra two gallons of water that I put in to drive it 3 miles home, never ever thinking to check the dipstick. Hint to Ford, next time install a float switch in the coolant tank like BMW does. It lets me know even if I am a quarter cup low. It would have save so many engines and pissed off people in this case. Enough bashing, time to get this problem solved.

[raydog]

I have come to the conclusion that this engine has done its last lap. So the question still stands,can I remove it with a cherry picker type engine hoist since I have no lift and cant find anyone in the area to swap motors for me?

[enigma-2]

The short answer is yes. (At least on a 2007 Fusion, which is simular). Heh. See video:

[jk350]

I did this engine swap last year cause of failed water pump. I couldn't find a shop who would do it unless i bought their engine so I had to do it in my driveway.

It has to come out the bottom, no other way unless you take the whole front doghouse off. I raised the rear tires about 2" and made a platform out of 4x4s to put

the front jackstands on, and with the intake off the motor I had just enough clearance to slide the cradle and engine out the side.

I used a cherry picker to lower and raise it but i also used a motorcycle lift under the cradle to help guide it out and back in. It was a big job to do in my driveway

but it saved me around 4Gs. ($2200 vs $6800)

 

Power steering pump was extremely frustrating, the whole front suspension needs removed, radiator removed, exhaust, drive shaft and half shafts. Leave the alternator on the motor but not the AC, that you can swing out of the way(makes it harder but then it doesn't get disconnected). Prepaint all suspension, steering and drive shaft nuts n bolts so you can get them back in the same spot.

 

Now would be the time to replace tie rods(especially the inners) and wheel bearings cause I wish I would've.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Great tips, thank you!

[clt750]

Hey Im going through this right now. May be a bit off topic for this thread so Im sorry ahead of time. Does anybody have any recommendations for places to buy a motor on line? Ive seen numerous sites and have seen prices around 1500.00 for a 3.5 with around 50 to 60k on them, with 5 year warranties. I think I have finally found a shop here locally that will do it if I supply the engine. No way in hell I would attempt to do this job. Very scary to me.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

car-part.com is a good place to start the search. Don't have recommendations for a particular place tho.

[Nhpatriot]

I know this is an old thread but thought i'd add some info from my recent engine swap so it might help others. 

2009 MKX 3.5 L water pump failed at 130K killing engine. 

I bought an engine at the local salvage yard for $400 with 150K miles. came from a Taurus with the W Vin code.

 

I've done 5+ engine swaps but my first going thru the bottom.  I had in my head that it comes out with the sub frame but no. Remove sub frame then lower engine after disconnecting the engine mounts.  Sub frame is pretty simple, remove bottom of struts bolts and pull the axle shafts out. Leave struts hanging but everything else comes down as a unit. 

I disconnected the power steering line from the steering box pretty easy. Get new copper crush washers. disconnect the steering shaft but don't move steering wheel after this. 

Disconnect the steering cooler at the right front wheel well. disconnect the reservoir line to the pump. I used suction to empty reservoir first.

 

I wish i removed the intake plenum before removing engine, it comes out easy, don't forget the support bolt under the throttle body.  I broke a vacuum hose connector on the back when lowering the engine.  The used engine i bought had the same broken vacuum port.  

 

The engine with the intake plenum still on is 29" high from the bottom of the pan. 

 

The replacement engine was a 2011 and the timing chain was different then the old 2009 engine. Shouldn't have ordered the parts before getting the new engine. Plus the timing chain kit for the 2011 engine didn't have the correct tensioner for the cam chains and one guide didn't match.  Seems Ford mixed and matched various parts as they saw fit.  In hind sight i should have just done the water pump and re used the timing chain. timing chain kit was $400. 

 

All told with fluids and tow and such i have $1,300 into the swap. And lots of time. Most time was messing with engine, exhaust manifold bolts and waterpump while engine was on bench.  2 days pulling engine and 2 days installing. 

 

[Waldo]

Isn't the 2011 a TiVCT and your old one was an iVCT?  How did you deal with the extra connector on the cam cover?